Carl Beck

Some things don't change - thank goodness. That is the same Fuel Pressure Regulator that BRE ran on the Baja Z in 1973. The original was still on the car, and you can still buy rebuild kits for it. Both the High Pressure and Low Pressure versions are identical in construction - the only difference is the spring used. The rebuild kit comes with both springs and can be used for both High and Low pressure regulators. Just to be safe, I rebuilt mine - put a fuel pressure gauge on it and it is right on the money. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Greg: So the questions still are - "where in the RPM range - are the harmonics critical enough to hammer a main bearing" - and/or - "is that the problem area"? Anyone know what the Factory Red Line is on the LD28? Might be a clue there related to the use of that crank. Lightening and balancing on that crank would also be VERY important {as mentioned} As I recall, when the cranks started walking around in the early L24's - it resulted in cracked flywheels and blown clutches.. sort of a harmonic whiplash at the end of the crank. If the center main was the only one hammered - - could have simply been an improperly installed (torqued) center main or cap. Maybe weak main or rod bolts/nuts that failed to hold proper torque. It just seems that if you ran into a harmonic wall - you'd see more damage than just the center main bearing. be sure to let us know if you ever find an answer... good luck, Carl B.

Agreed - Keep Looking...that one is too far gone already. Carl B.

LOTS OF MILES on a 280Z = 300,000+ Looks like a nice clean 280Z worth taking care of and sure to be enjoyable to own. Now save some money up - and plan a trip around America early summer when you turn 21... Stay off the Interstates as much as possible -and stop for a day or to in many interesting spots.. Take a good friend with you to share the experience with... This is an Amazing Country... good luck, Carl B.

1974 Datsun 260Z - $4200.00 - WinterSprings (Orlando) Florida http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/1100616584.html Even with the 72 Carb's, this one might still pass the inspection required for 1974..

Also depends on what you plan to use the car for, or plan to do to the car. I wouldn't put $6K in a non-matching number 240-Z's, if I ever hoped to refresh it toward saving a Classic Car. If you want a street mod 240-Z - I still wouldn't pay that much to start with... better to buy a bare shell for $2K and do your own thing, or pay a bit more up front and get a street mod car that is really performance oriented and done. FWIW Carl B.

Here is an E-Production 240-Z in Florida... http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/8/2021634 FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guy: Short of Turbo-charging these engines - - The real HP gains are made by increasing the displacement and raising the compression ratio. You can run up to 9.5:1 compression ratio on pump gas in most area's of the US, and in some places 10:1. Depends on the actual quality of the pump gas in your area among other things. If you don't want to shave the head - then you can deck the block and install oversize flat top pistons. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rob: That looks like a very pleasant way to spend a long weekend. Around 850 miles round trip and in some beautiful country. Wonder if we could start something like that - back here on the East Coast... Approximately how many cars were participating? FWIW, Carl B.

The Parts Catalog lists 11041 HEAD ASSY-CYLINDER I believe that all of the following had casting numbers of P79, as I don't recall ever seeing a head with a casting number of P71 nor P81 on a ZX. -P7180 07/78 to 01/79 -P8100 02/79 to 04/80 -P8180 02/79 to 04/80 -P8181 05/80 to 06/80 -P7980 07/80 on.... So I'd say that the P79 heads were on all the N/A 280ZX's 79 to 83 Model Year... Just my guess... Carl B.

Would be nice to have our own engine dyno... maybe the guys at HybridZ woud throw in.. Carl B.

Millions and Millions and Millions of dollars worth of equipment when purchased new - now most likely being sold for pennies on the dollar... It will more than likely cost more to move some of the equipment, than prospective buyers will pay for it at auction. But that is little money compared to the value of the knowledge and experience that will be scattered... FWIW, Carl B.

Returning to an old and controversial subject. The design of the L16/L24 or the Modular Series of Nissan OHC, in-line engines. Per Alan's suggestion - that we take the word of the man that designed the Nissan L20 into account. I have had the interview with Mr. Iida, that was published in Nostalgic Hero, April 2004, translated by a professional source, and that translation then reviewed by several others who read/write both Japanese and English - feedback from everyone was that the article was as faithfully/accurately translated as possible - so everyone can now read the article in English for themselves. As with many Magazine articles, it is difficult to tell exactly when the author is writing/reporting his perceptions some time after he left the interview vs when he is accurately reporting what Mr. Iida actually said. (remember the Goertz Myth) I have followed that up with farther specific questions related to the names of the men working in First Engine Design Division that did design the L16, and I am awaiting replies from friends in Japan at this point. They are attempting to pin down more specific answers to any questions left by the article. Nonetheless the overall context of the interview with Mr. Iida comes though in the article. I believe everyone will be able to determine what part of the article actually relates the story of the development of the L20 and later the design and development of the L16, L24, L20A per Mr. Iida vs which part of the story is filled in by the writers perceptions or simply misunderstanding of the subject. {this is all too normal for magazine articles}. I believe that the Mr. Iida states fairly clearly the following: 1. There were two divisions of the Design Organization that did engine design. The First Division did engine design for small displacement engines (Bluebird) and the Second Division did engine design for larger displacement engines (Cedric and Truck). Mr. Iida was assigned to the Second Division in July of 64. 2. The L20 was a rushed design which resulted in many problems with the L20 engine for the Cedric 3. 4 months from the start of design they were casting development engines for test in Nov. of 64. 4. The L20 design cycle was completed in short order because Mr. Iida used the block of a 4 cylinder engine that was already in development, and added two cylinders to it. Then used the M/B OHC design. Mr. Iida makes the point very clearly that six cylinder engines are the result of adding two cylinders to an existing four cylinder engine. 5. Because of the rushed design, the pre-production test engines showed problems with the oil pump drive mechanism, and cracking of the cam towers. These problems were solved but then first production L20 still suffered from several major problems and many customer complaints {excessive oil consumption. excessive noise and poor fuel economy} Some of the problems in the production engines were mitigated in the second production run a year later when the HP was reduced and the engine fitted with a downdraft carb. - - but there were still problems and customer complaints. 6. Mr. Iida states that LATER the L16 having had an extensive design and development cycle was put into production, and as a result it was a much better design. Mr Iida does not state that he designed the L16, nor does he say that his engine "was evolved into the L16" (although the author of the article seems to have made that conclusion in his writings). Mr. Iida makes the very clear point that the L16 was the result of an extensive design and development cycle, that was well rationalized. It is very clear that the L16 was not developed by removing two cylinders from the L20, nor was the L20 used as the base design. Quite the contrary, the two engines had quite different design and development cycles and were done in different design divisions. 7. To take advantage of the better design and development of the L16/L13 engine, and to share these four cylinder series design and their parts, L20 was again designed. The new L20A whose development cycle was completed Jan. of 1968, was the result. 8. Mr. Iida also notes that engines that share design and parts are called "modular engines". Here we see that while the original L20 was first, it was not part of the L Series of Nissan's Modular Engines sharing their design and parts. Is the L20 part of the L Series? Yes. Is the L20 part of the modular L Series of engines that share common parts and were carried forward for decades? NO. The L20A however having been based on the L16 is part of that modular series. 9. The L20A was considered a design based on the L16 engine by Mr. Iida, in order to take advantage of the improvements made with a full design and development cycle afforded the design of the L16 in another design division, and one that could also share common parts with the other new modular engines. 10. The design of the L20A was completed in Jan. 1968 at which time the full responsibility for the L Series of modular engines was turned over the First Engine Design Division (that had been for small displacement engines, and in which the L16 was designed). At which point Mr. Iida and the Second Engine Design Division were assigned responsibility for development of the A10 engine. Additionally: Looking at the introduction dates (as opposed to Model Years) of the engines in Nissan's cars - 1965 L20, 1967 U20, L13/16, 1968 L23/24, 1969 L20A . It would seem that in fact the L23/24 block was put into production ahead of the L20A with its smaller bore. So again it seems that the author of the article assumed that the L20A was "expanded" to the L23/24.... Even though Mr. Iida told him that six cylinder engines start as 4 cylinder engines with two additional cylinders being added. Add two cylinders to the L16 and you have the L24. It is interesting (and understandable given the problems that the L20 suffered) to note that the 1998cc L20 was no longer offered with the introduction of the 1968-1969 Model Cedric 130 Series Mark 4, when the L20 was replaced with the new L23. Only with the introduction of the 1969-1970 Model Cedric 130 Mark 5 and the Fairlady Z do we see the then new L20A implemented. This article written after the interview with Mr. Iida is interesting and informative, but like most stories in the magazines, the authors perceptions or conclusions after he walked away from the interview seem not to line up faithfully with the information provided by the person interviewed. {ie. Goertz comment that he worked for Nissan prior to the introduction of the Z - or that he had been at Porsche - resulted in reporters writting that he had designed the Z, and the 911 - even though Goertz actually never said that at the time}. I've put the text of the article translated, on a web page and everyone can read it themselves and extract their own conclusions. The translation was done by a very seasoned professional Japanese citizen, with advanced degrees from universities in the US and over 20 years experience translating Japanese to English. I then ask several friends that have both English and Japanese language skills to review the translation. All agreed that the overall context was accurately conveyed. See: http://ZHome.com/DatsunLSeries/L20NH2004AprilTrans.htm FWIW, Carl B.

Hello Erick: We may not fully understand your situation. You say that the L20 you have was taken from a 1970 Datsun Truck. I do not know what models of Datsun Trucks were sold in Central America in 1970, so you may have to tell us more about that truck. Here in the USA and Canada the 1970 Datsun Pick-up trucks came with a 4 cylinder, 1600cc engine - L16 The Nissan L20 was an in-line, six cylinder, OHC engine, used in some Nissan vehicles in 1965 to 1968. In 1969 it was replaced with a new design and re-named the L20A. {cylinder heads between the two ie. L20 and L20A - were not interchangeable, nor could you mount a P79 head on an L20 } The Datsun Pick-up's here used the L16, then later the L18 and finally an L20B. The L20B was a four cylinder OHC engine. IF you actually have an L20A, in-line six cylinder, OHC engine - with the E30 head, then that would yield a higher compression ratio than using the P79 - - unless you modify the P79 by milling it down to reduce the combustion chamber volume. A second problem may result from using the P79 - - it has larger valves and they may not clear the bore on the L20A - unless you increase the bore on the engine or notch the cylinder walls at the top. I would use the E30 head to be safe. If you could send a picture of the engine - it would help identify it. FWIW, Carl B.

As far as I know - all 280Z, 280ZX flywheels are the same. The exceptions are the 2+2 and Turbo's. Likewise the starters are interchangable. As I recall - the 240/260Z's are the same as the 280Z/280ZX flywheels... The clutch pressure plates and disc are interchangable as well - same exceptions for the 2+2's and Turbo.'s. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Steve: My best advice is - cut your losses short now. Hard as that may be to swallow, it is the best medicine I could prescribe. If you cut and patch, cut and patch... and you wind up with anything less than an original looking undercarriage - - - the car will be fixed - but it's market value will be very low. Looking at the amount of rust under that Z - I would not devote the time and money it will take to fix it properly. On the other hand, if your just building a future street rod, or race car - fixing it "properly" to maintain an OEM vehicle - won't matter. To repair it properly, such that at some future point in time, it would still have the market value of a solid Datsun 240-Z - you would have to replace the original sheet-metal panels with new OEM panels, or very good reproduction parts. NOT just metal patch the hell out of everything. It is a uni-body car - so you would have to remove the damaged panels entirely - buy breaking the spot-welds, then replace them with new panels and re-weld the spots. Given the expense of OEM frame rails, reproduction floorboards - - - and what ever else is rust damaged - - - I would be far better to simply buy a 240-Z with a far more solid body to begin with. There are still lots of 240-Z's on the West Coast that could be far more easily refreshed or restored - and purchased for under $4,500.00. Put your time and hard work into a car that will be worth the effort in the end... FWIW, Carl B.

Where are they listed as "right side"? "R WHEEL CYLINDER" - might mean Rear Wheel Cylinder. Normally they are listed as RH or LH for Right or Left Hand sides. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Well so far, my "show favorite" is the blond standing on your right in the other picture Wish I could have made it - but too many other tasks developed here, and I just couldn't get away. We started remodeling a bath earlier in the week - and things just went downhill from there. FWIW, Carl B.

44100-N3001 is the Right Hand rear wheel cylinder for cars starting 10/72 44101-N3001 is the Left Hand rear wheel cylinder for cars starting 10/72 The earlier Part Numbers were: 44100-E8700 RH 44101-E8700 LH And before that 44100-E4100 RH 44101-E4100 LH If they are both the same, and you're sure that they are both the same - it looks like someone put a wrong wheel cylinder in the box -- - It seems I've heard of that before... FWIW, Carl

Hi Bryan: Glad to see you, Roger and Jim could make it to this years Festival of Speed Show. I had my wife captive a couple of week-ends ago at another event, so this weekend was payback time. We had about four men here tearing out a bath for remodeling, as we ran around picking up new fixtures and supplies. Until the last minute I was hoping that we could work the schedule out so as to free me up Saturday... but it was not to be. HLS30 00016 is looking pristine for a now 40 year old, and I can see the headlight of your Black/Silver ZX peeking through. Hope you guys had a great time... looking at another thread - it looks like Chris did... Maybe he has some pictures of some cars .... na..... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guus: The pictures on the site are just fantastic!!! Kind of reminds me of daily driving in Washington and IdahoROFL Thanks... Carl B.

Hi Mike: THANKS for finding these and letting us know.... the pictures by Richard Owen are very good. Wish we had the LeMans wheels shinned back up before he took them... but that was late Saturday afternoon when we were putting the Race Cars on the Greens... very damp and foggy day... Hi Guus: That is pretty good - Thanks for finding it and letting us know. I'll have to get in touch with Mr. Cook... FWIW, Carl B.

The "best" set up is #2 because it has a return line. This keeps the gas flowing through the lines and therefore at a more steady temperature, which is normally cooler. The second best would be #4 - if you can get a good fuel pressure regulator between the pump and the fuel feed line. #3 Could also be used - "IF" you have it connected to a fuel distribution block, preceded by a good fuel pressure regulator. Just make sure that your return line is a size smaller than the feed - to maintain consistent pressure at the carb.'s. FWIW Carl B.

Wow... stuff from China has gone up in price a lot. Was $369.00 on sale at Northern Tool in 2003 - - - -and now it's $669.00 on sale at Northern Tool!! FWIW, Carl B.

This should give you a clue... As you can see there are 3 vents on the tank - all of which go to a Gasoline Vapor Recovery tank - that tank is then vented via #46 to the front of the engine compartment. No - the gas cap is not vented. It's a sealed system to keep gasoline vapors captive. FWIW, Carl B.