Carl Beck

Hi Ron: Actually the gasoline evaporative control system was only required in California in 1970. The U.S. Clean Air Act gave the individual States the authority to set local standards based on their local air quality. Our EPA wasn't established in law at the Federal Level until Dec. of 1970. Nonetheless, California accounted for over 35% of Datsun sales so all cars intended for the US were built to the California standards after Jan. Several of the early production (69) cars did not have the gasoline vapor recovery system, but so far all of them we have found had the Air Pump.. Canada did not require the Air Pump for their emissions standards in 1970, so several early cars into Canada were not equipped with them, although Nissan seems to have standardized production by late Jan/Feb of 1970 for all North American Z's, or the Canadian emissions standards could have changed as well. Air quality testing, emissions standards and technical compliance were all iterative processes during that period. Our Federal Government, our various State Governments and the automotive manufacturers were all heavily involved. When legal requirements were passed, that some of the automotive manufacturers simply could not meet, they were granted delays, sometime by made and sometimes only to specific models... I agree that in many cases the paperwork and the product didn't agree. Our recent discussion about the carpeting is an example. FWIW, Carl B.

If I had to guess, and a guess would be all it would be.... I'd say that the Z Car pictured is most likely one of the two North American Test Cars.... with pictures taken when they were in Canada in 69. FWIW, Carl B.

Sports Cars in general have never been a significant part of the total American Automotive Market. So reason #1 for the current prices on Datsun 240-Z's is simply supply and demand for classic sports cars. Relatively very little supply but also relatively very little demand. When supply and demand are about equal, prices stabilize... Within the class - the values of Datsun 240-Z's have done fairly well. Go find/buy a Triumph TR-6, an Opel GT, a MG-B GT, a Fiat 124 Coupe or a Porsche 914... today. All were in the same CLASS and price range when sold new, and there are a lot more 240-Z's still running than any of the others. I think you'll find that when comparing cars in the same category - the 240-Z's are highly valued today. Because they were so reliable and desirable lots of them are still around. Go up a price class - to the Alfa's, Lotus, and lower end Porsche 912/911's... I think you'll still find the 240-Z's relatively highly valued.... I think it is unreasonable to expect buyers of Pony Cars, Muscle Cars - to have an interest in the Sports Cars of the late 60's to early 70's. Priced a daily driver 1968-72 Corvette latey? FWIW, Carl B.

Only by dorks...

Too bad Nissan didn't stick with the Parker Agency... someone there would have known that by 1970 no one was using "groovy".... that was from the 60's 77 Sunset Place....da... Secondly it always bothers me when a DATSUN 240Z is shown by Nissan USA and never a mention of DATSUN. Someone should climb that Bill Board the next time a 240Z is up there - and Paint DATSUN across it.... I'd do it if I were in California.... you can bet on that. Great photo's however... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris / bigoak Thanks guys, I'm glad to hear you like the article. I feel really good that more people will be able to see it and perhaps learn a bit more about BRE and DATSUN's Off-Road efforts in the late 60's and early 70's. They didn't get too much coverage in the period Sports Car Magazines, although covered in the Off-Road media. Since then Mr. Brock found another picture from the 70's - this one in color. http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=B&Category_Code=brearchivephotos240zs and of course I had to order that!! Originally, BRE didn't have the front parking lights/turn signals installed - but I had to put them back in to get the car road legal and licensed. We got to see what was more or less the final draft ahead of publication. Mr. Brock and I reviewed it with the author, to assure that everything was as accurate as possible. I was impressed with the story line and writing, as much as the authors efforts to get everything straight. Sometimes stories get totally screwed up along the way.... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Randy: For street use - I'd improve the shocks first, then add a slightly larger front anti-sway bar. That will get rid of about 90% of the body roll you feel on the long sweepers coming onto the freeway. Adding the larger BRE type rear anti-sway bar will significantly change the handling characteristics as mentioned above. Stock the 240Z understeers - so you have to turn into the corner more with the steering wheel.. and the body rolls more...push it in too fast and tires begin to complain.. The good news is you get plenty of warning as the tires reach their limit of adhesion to the road surface. Truth be told, even with the body roll and tires screaming... the 240Z will hold the road past the point that most drivers have the nerve and good sense to push it. Push it into a corner too fast, panic and lift off the throttle abruptly - and you will learn what "trailing throttle oversteer" means, as the rear of the car passes you in the corner... Every upgrade you made (we are talking true "up-grade" here) to the OEM suspension - helps the tires maintain contact and adhesion to the road - but also reduces the warning you get before the tires let go. I'd do one thing at a time to a stock Z (unless you have lots of seat time in Z's of all manor and are a master driver etc). Better shocks first, then larger front bar, then better tires, then add the rear if needed. I'd put lots of miles on the car between each change. (we are talking about a car driven on the roads). Do everything at once, and you may feel too secure with the flat and seemingly neutral handling.... and when the tires suddenly let go of the road, you wind up off-road. FWIW, Carl B.

Has anyone found the Sept. issue on the Magazine Racks at retail outlets yet? Every magazine stand here is still selling the July issue. Of course no one that works at these places has any idea of when to expect anything to arrive. I've tried Boarders/Barns as well as the usual Drugstore/Grocery store racks... thanks, Carl B.

The two on the rear and one hook on the front are tie-down hooks. One bracket with the hole in it, is a towing point. As I recall that was usually on the Right Front... Yes, the Dealers were supposed to remove the tie-down hooks, to prevent people using them as tow hooks. Most Dealers were too busy getting mag.'s, body side moldings and bumper bars installed prior to delivery, to mess with removing anything. FWIW, Carl B.

Tell me about that air cleaner.... thanks, Carl B.

When you get them - post some pictures. Since the original ad is gone - I didn't see it. So I don't know what shape they are in. If the rims are not pitted too badly - you can have a good machine shop turn them down. You want to aviod allowing stress cracks from forming out of corrosion spots. Exactly what "AM-wheels" are they? I'm going to be very upset if it was a set of LeMans wheels.. -VBG- I've been looking for one more 14x7.5 or even 14.7.... for a couple years now... Carl B.

If you use your Datsun 240-Z for regular transportation rather than "for pleasure use only"... then a "Stated Value" policy is most likely better than not. It's possible to compare a regular auto policy that gives Actual Cash Value as it's limits of liability to that of one that uses a "Stated Value". In both cases however the final settlement in case of a total loss is subject to agreement by the Insurance Companies Claims Adjustor. The insurance company has NO Obligation to pay the Stated Value in full. With a Classic Car policy - that has an "Agreed Value", there is no claims adjusting to be done in case of a total loss. The Classic Car insurance company has an obligation to pay the Agreed Value in full. Huge difference in process and legal obligation. Normally a huge difference in the premium being charged as well. Classic Car's don't suffer anything near the loss rate that transportation cars do, so the premiums are far lower. If you have a collector quality Classic Car - with a real value two to five times that of a daily driver - and you use it for pleasure use only - don't accept anything less than an Agreed Value policy. If you do have to use the car for transportation purposes - then don't have it on a Classic Car policy. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Nick: That is correct - if you use your car for daily transportation - it would not be covered under any Classic Car Policy. No matter who you purchase "specialty insurance" from, its coverage can not overlap that offered by the Full Line Automobile insurance policies. If you plan to use your 240-Z to drive to/from work one day a week - you are in effect using it as daily transportation. I CAN drive any of my Classic Cars to work to show them off whenever the mood strikes me. The coverage is based on your intended use of the car - not were you are going. So if you ask the question: "Can I drive my car to work?" The answer the person at Hagerty should have given was - "that depends on why you are driving it there.". If your intended use is to replace the use of your daily driver 20% of the time (one out of five days per week) - then NO it would not be covered for that use. If you intend to take it to your workplace to show your fellow workers, participate in one of the many company sponsored "bring your Classic Car To Work Days" for display - then yes it would be covered. Again I'm sorry that whoever you talked to - provides such misinformation. I have had policies from the Hagerty for going on 20 years now - none have any mention of mileage restrictions. I assure you that I can make one lap of America and be fully covered. Again - misinformation. One person many of us know has about 30 cars in a very large detached garage - and he is an Insurance Agent for the Hagerty. Again nothing in the Policy requires an attached garage. That is true - if you are using your Classic Car for daily transportation purposes such as going to work or going shopping - you should have it covered on a Full Line Auto Policy. If you are driving your Classic Car on a Sunday Drive - no one has to be afraid to stop at the 7/11 for a cold drink or coffee. Your covered. Here again I'm afraid the person you talked to - doesn't really understand the differences in "use" between the Full Line or Regular Auto Insurance Policies - and those issued by the Speciality Insurance carriers that will issue Agreed Value policies on Classic Cars. The Speciality Insurance Carriers are authorized by the State's they operate in - to offer coverage that IS NOT offered by the Regular Auto. Insurance Policies being sold in that State. If you read carefully the actual Insurance Policy you receive - if it has an Agreed Value (not Stated Value), it will clearly define what a "Classic Car" is vs. what a "Regular Transportation" car is. It will also state clearly that a Classic Car CAN NOT be used to replace the use of your regular transportation vehicle. One thing that is common to all Classic Car Insurance Policies that I have seen - is the requirement to have a different vehicle insured as your daily transportation, covered by a Full Line or Regular Automobile Policy. If you don't have a requirement to have a different car insured for daily use - chance are very great that you don't have an Agreed Value policy. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: TrackSide Photo in L.A. has been covering the Off-Road Races/Rallies since 1970. A few of their photo's were used in the Classic Motorsports Article. If anyone in the Classic Z Car or Sports Car Community is interested in Pro-Rally / Off-Road competition - TrackSide has a great web site to browse. You can order any of the pictures from them at fairly reasonable prices. http://www.tracksidephoto.com/ 70's Baja Races at: http://www.tracksidephoto.com/gallery/index.php?category=gallery/1970s/73Baja500/Cars&start=0 For Example: BRE was not the first team to run a Datsun 240-Z at the Baja. The first picture below from TrackSide Photo's shows the 240-Z entered by Thiel Motors of Modesto, California in 1970. Morton/Brock ran a PL510 together in 1972 (second picture below). The story of that adventure was captured in Sylvia Wilkinson's book "the Stainless Steel Carrot". That is where my interests in the Off-Road aspect of BRE and Datsun's partnership began; as there was no coverage in the typical "Sports Car" media in the U.S. of the day. The BRE Baja Z wasn't the only car ran by BRE in 73. They also ran a PL510 shown in the third picture below. There is a color image of this 510 on the BRE Web Site.... The BRE Web Site also has several historic photo's in their photo archives. It's a neat sight to visit as well. http://BRE2.net FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Here are a couple of my favorite pictures from the Classic Motorsports photo shoot. First one shows Mr. Brock attempting to get the exact angle and light to capture the rear suspension etc. Keep in mind that is cool for Florida that day, and the wind was blowing about 30 knots all the time... You can see the loose sand blowing across the hard pan on the beach, behind Mr. Brock and the car. Second one shows Mr. Brock standing with his Z - as tall as he is, I don't know how he ever fit in it. Reward movement of the seat is limited when the seat back hits the fuel cell. Mr. Brock spent about 4.5 to 5 hours shooting the car. Must have taken a couple hundred pictures. Over-all I thought the guys at Classic Motorsports did a nice job with the article. A friend of mine is working on a Video... so I might be able to Post a few clips at some point.

From the Z Therapy Z Car Spotters Guide - - -- - "This is not a carb-It is a boat anchor! June1972 240Z to all 260Z's (US) Flattop "Hitachi"" - - - - - - - - - - - - Wonder where that came from? Flat Tops didn't start until Aug of 1972 here in the US... when the 1973 Model Year cars started production. FWIW, Carl B.

HI Kats: No they are different people. I haven't found anyone that has a record of the models names from that period. According to Mr. Speckman, the car that was in the Jan 1970 issue of R&T was his - HLS30 00008 - a Silver Z. FWIW, Carl B.

If you have a good digital image already - then any local sign company, like Signs Now can scan it, and print it on vinyl - shouldn't be more than $20.00 to $25.00 .... cheap considering the cost of their overhead and equipment. Great Job by the way - put it on E-Bay and see what it brings.. got to be worth a couple hundred bucks to someone.. They don't make them like they used too.. FWIW, Carl B.

Keep in mind that on a used car - it is possible to have "leather" set upholstery. A couple of companies used to sell them for the first generation Z's and they may still be available somewhere. So if there is a question - clear it up with the present owner... FWIW: Carl B.

Hi zhead240 Wow - talk about having Day and Night. A Datsun 240-Z and a Triumph TR6 is about as close as you can come to the dawning of the new age. I liked the TR4/6 for style and top down fun. (Although I also like the 2.0L Fiat 124 Spyders as well) In one garage you'll have a blast from the past and a representative of the future both circa the 70's. On the one hand -The British Sports Car of the 50's carried forward into the 70's. On the other hand - Japan's frontal attack on the Sports/GT market for the future. Coupe vs Convertible Uni-body vs. Frame and Body 150HP 2.4L OHC L6 with 7 main bearings vs 104HP 2.5L Pushrod I6 with 4 main bearings Front Suspension - MacPherson Struts vs Upper and Lower Wishbones with coil springs Rear Suspension - Chatman Struts vs Semi-trailing Arms, Lever Arm Shocks !! (does it really still have Lever Arm Shocks in the rear for 73?) At $3,500.00 if the engine isn't shot - I don't see how you could go wrong, especially if you like the straight arm driving position and the wind and rain in your hair!. Now I'll have to start looking around here, but I doubt I'll find a good TR6 for less than twice that price here in Florida.... but maybe.... good luck, Carl B.

Can you Post the pictures of the battery tray? Did you find out where is the car was located - PRIOR to its present location. Shouldn't see that much rust in AZ. What did you offer for it? Carl B.

You'll have to let us know how it holds up. It would be good to have something that doesn't need to be sprayed. I've used the SEM NAPA Red vinyl and trim paint - it's an exact match to the original, and it will hold up well. You can spray the seats and door panels without fear of it rubbing off on your cloths.. if you follow the mfg. directions. FWIW, Carl B.

I believe that you should have suggested simply rotating the GenII 180 degrees, then mounting it on the firewall above the transmission tunnel. That way there would be no need to modify the unit itself. The round air ducts are soft plastic - they fit right over the oval outlets on the evap. unit. You want to make sure you tape them in place, then put a very small screw through the air ducts into the outlet on the unit. FWIW, Carl

Your upgrade includes super insulation as well as great weather stripping/seals. That has a LOT to with it, as well as the actual A/C unit... For everyone following along - I meet Derek at friends house, and looked the set up over. Super good job... very nice indeed. I'll see if I can dig out the adapter brackets from an older Sanden set up - and take a picture of them. Sanden used to have two models of their compressor a 5 series and a 7 series. I think the adapters were for the longer 7 series... but not certain. FWIW, Carl B.

Can you show a Picture of the mount? I used the OEM mount, with the OEM Hitachi compressor. The Hitachi is too expensive. Sanden used to supply a conversion kit for the L24/L28, that used an adapter bracket to mount their compressor to the OEM mount.. FWIW, Carl B.