Carl Beck

Hi Guys: Terms, terms, terms.... they have to be made more specific if we are ever to really understand one another. 71 Calender Year - same as "Production Year".... 1 Jan. though the end of 31 Dec. 71 Model Year - varies by Manufacturer and Country. ie... the first regular production 1970 Model Year Datsun 240-Z's were built in Oct. of 1969. The first Series of Datsun 240-Z's were produced from Oct. 1969 into Jan. of 1971. They were sold and titled as 1969 Model Year 240-Z's, 1970 Model Year 240-Z's and 1971 Model Year 240-Z's. These are the cars with the fresh air exhaust vents on the rear hatch lid and the 240-Z Script Emblems on the rear quarter panels. The Second Series of Datsun 240-Z's began production in Jan. of 1971 and Nissan restarted the Chassis Serial Numbers for the HLS30's at HLS30 21000 and the HS30's at HS30 00501. Nissan called these the "Late Model 1971 Datsun 240-Z Sports". These are the cars with the fresh air vents moved to the rear quarter panel and the Circle Z emblem. (among other changes). Yes - there is a large overlap in the VIN's and Build Dates of the Series I 240-Z's that were titled as 1970 Model Year Datsun 240-Z's, and those Titled as 1971 Model Year Datsun 240-Z's. That is to say; that it is easy to find cars with lower VIN's that were titled as 1971 Datsun 240-Z's, than many that were still sold and titled as 1970 Model Year Datsun 240-Z's, here in the States. How the car was sold and then titled, depended upon what month it finally reached the selling dealers, and how the laws of the State within which it was sold were structured. The Series I Datsun 240-Z's meet all the Federal Safety and Emissions standards in place for 1969, 1970 and into March of 1971. So they could legally be sold as any of the three Model Year vehicles. All that changed when the Federal Government's Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards and the Federal Emissions Standards set production dates that implemented the specific changes in the laws. So from about April of 1971 forward - only cars meeting the 1971 FMVSS and Emissions Standards could be sold as "1971 Model Year" vehicles, likewise only cars meeting the 72 Standards could be sold and titled as 1972 Model Years, 73 etc etc. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi mally002: Using a general term like "71 model" - the answer to your question as ask - would be: One or the other of the two emblems you ask about, might be correct on any specific car. In order to get a more useful answer to your question - we'd have to know more detailed information about the specific Z, or group of Z's, you are asking about. 1. What is the VIN. 2. What is the Date Of Manufacture displayed on the Data Tag on the Drivers Door Jam. Rear hatch lids can be changed, holes in the rear quarter panels can be either filled in and/or covered up with the 240-Z Script Emblems. Who knows what some previous owners have done to any particular example over the past 37 years. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi E: Pinch welt molding on the hatch seal???? Not on any 240Z I've seen. They are glued in place with weather strip adhesive.. You must have been thinking about the door seals??? FWIW, Carl B.

What are the serial numbers on the engines you have? Nissan begain using the 9mm rod bolts at L24-096181 and the engines would be found in cars built starting in 04 or 05 of 1972. Most likely both the engines you have would have had the 9mm rod bolts - but check the serial numbers anyway. Carl B.

Nate, the Integra seats do not touch the center console, nor the doors. Mount in the stock seat holes in the body. If you measure the distance from the seat cushion to the roof both the stock seats and the Integra seats are the same. "HOWEVER" when you set in the Integra seats, they do not compress as much as the stock seats, because the Integra seats are more firm to begin with. So it feels like you are sitting about 1/2" higher.. FWIW, Carl B.

Scroll down below the "box" where you type in your Post or Reply. Below the "Submit Reply" and "Preview Reply".... To the section titled "Additional Options" You will see a box titled "Attach Files"... hit the "Manage Attachments" hyper-link. Then simply select the pictures from your computer files. They should be .jpg format, and they have to be within the specified sizes..... that you will see listed in the Manage Attachment Box after you hit that hyper-link. Max Width 1281 and Max Height 1025.

Have the seller take them to the U.S. Post Office. The U.S. Post Office uses Fed-x for their oversea's shippments anyway and the U.S. Post Office rates are less. Fed-X was twice as much as the U.S. Post Ofiice to ship a tire to Japan - and it was there in three or four days. FWIW, Carl B.

Broken bond on the damper pulley - or loose crank pulley bolt. Teeth on the oil pump/distributor drive broken/missing. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Filipe: Like any Classic, Collectible or Special Interest Car - the specific condition it is in has a huge impact on its selling Price. If the Vintage Z has been kept in the same condition as it was when the selling Dealer delivered it - then it would sell for between $30K and $37K today. If on the other hand the first purchaser drove the car for several thousand miles, got a minor door ding, a minor scratch, or if the engine compartment lost its "as new" shine... then that car could sell for $20K or less. The original documentation is considered a part of the car, so not having a complete documentation package can cost the seller 10 to 15% of the value of the car at the Top End. At $30K today, the Vintage Z's are still a bargain. They cost less than half what it takes to restore a 240-Z to like condition and if history is any guide, in the future they will demand higher prices than most other 240-Z's. FWIW, Carl B.

Reinstated...

The poor guy just might be telling the truth - hacking into e-bay seems to be a new passtime for some ... We'll see if E-Bay reinstates him or not.. time will tell.. Carl B.

Hi Mike of the Mire.. Leaded gasoline is still "available" in the USA - just not for road going vehicles. So you don't see it for sale at local Gas Stations. Aviation Fuel is still available with trace amounts of lead, as is Racing Fuel (now about $10.00 per gallon for 107 octane). NASCAR has committed to running unleaded now and that will most probably be followed by the other sanctioning bodies in the not too distant future. I haven't a clue as to what TomoHawk saw...Avgas maybe?? FWIW, Carl B.

Regular Unleaded gasoline was introduced to the American market in 1976. Lead was eliminated from all gasoline for road going vehicles here in the US by Jan. 1, 1996. That year 30% of the gasoline sold in NSW, Australia was leaded fuel. Regular Unleaded petrol was introduced to the Australian market in 1986, to enable new vehicles there to operate with a catalytic converter. The sale of leaded petrol was phased out in Australia by the Commonwealth Government on 1 Jan. 2002. FWIW, Carl B.

Put another way - is it "necessary" to give the original factory wiring, the new load from a Super Watt Amplifier at all? Does the power drawn by the Amplifier and then replaced to the battery by the alternator, have to run though the original wiring and thus though (past) the Amp Meter? What happens when you run a heavy gage wire directly from the alternator output, back to the battery? Would that split the load... half returned from the alternator to the battery through the original wiring in the harness - and half returned through the new wire outside the harness? Is it a good or bad thing to see your Amp Meter "dancing" with peak loads from additional power consuming devices not originally planned for the car? humm....... Carl B.

The original engine serial number on the Datsun 240-Z's, in addition to being stamped into the data tag under the hood, is printed on the original Window Sticker and it is supposed to have been recorded in the Owner's Warranty/Service Book that came with the car when new. At least here in the US. This may or may not be the case on later models after 1975... For What It's Worth... Carl B.

Hi Walter: Gee.. I don't remember it being that way. I was thinking that in 1975 only certain new cars equipped with catalytic converters required unleaded fuel, and thus they had the restricted fuel filler, with the required "Unleaded Fuel Only" label, to protect the cat. Indeed the 75 280Z didn't require a catalytic converter to pass the US EPA Emissions Standards - and only the Z's sold in California required a catalytic converter to comply with the stricter CARB standards- and thus the restricted fuel filler. The Parts Catalog lists different part numbers for the "Federal" model and the "California" model... from Dec. 74 to July 76 FWIW, Carl

That car was at one time advertised as a very early 240-Z.... Did you get a chance to look under the hood at the firewall VIN? Granted - the tail lights aren't from a 240-Z... The "asking" price on that car was $275K... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Art: Lots of guys have been running triple side drafts for years with no return line. I believe the reason is that Cannon supplied the fittings, that did not accommodate a return line - so the Z owners just used that was there. Not the best set-up, but it usually works. They also usually run an electric pump with a fuel pressure regulator. For the most part the return line in the OEM system is there to keep the fuel moving/circulating and thus cooler than it would be if left standing still in the lines close to the engine. Both the mechanical and electric pumps have predetermined upper pressure limits - that is to say they put out 3 to 4 psi - at which they either stop pumping (electric) or some physical restriction stops the output of more fuel. I'm sure you are old enough to remember that most cars in the 50's and 60's had no fuel return lines.:-) In either case the first thing to do is measure the fuel line pressure at the carb.'s - - - if you are getting excessive pressure (6+ psi) - it's possible some PO has installed an electric pump that's output is higher than needed by the S.U.'s, or it's possible that the electric pump is not putting out enough fuel because the filters in it are clogging up.. I'm not positive - but as I recall - the OEM electric pumps on the 73's only ran on the START position of the ignition - then when the engine was running the mechanical pump actually supplied the fuel. That would explain why the PO "jumped" the electric pump to pressurize the fuel line prior to starting - it would take less cranking on the START position to keep the electric pump running. That is "IF" the car still has its OEM electric and mechanical pumps in place.... If some PO has installed an aftermarket electric pump and wired it to run all the time - then it should run any time the key is ON.. (easy enough to check).. All the above said - the poor running condition may have nothing to do with not having a return line. Could be that the car sat, un-used back East for a prolonged period - and now you are really dealing with varnish and rust in the tank, or in the fuel filters - at the pump, the in-line filter, or at the carb.s. Could be a weak pump as well. I do agree that it is important to have a return line on the 240-Z's running the S.U.'s - it keeps the fuel cooler and it's part of the evaporative emission controls... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Filipe: Since you used two pictures of my white 72 240-Z on Page 4 of that discussion forum... I'm hoping you will at least translate the captions related to them {vinyl top and side stripes}... How did you ever find those pictures? You have an amazing restoration project there... You'll have to tell us far more about it. regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

Hi Rex: If you got the instruction sheet, can you read it? :-) Can you Post a picture of the Parts Number Labels? Just wondering what colors are on them. Carl B.

Doug: I take it that you want the correct battery size - because you are using the OEM battery hold down on top of it. (yes/no?) If that is the case - then take the OEM Battery hold down (that sits on top the battery) with you when you shop for a battery. Todays "Group 24" may or may not be the exact identical size as they were in the 1970's... Secondly many battery manufacturers have moved the original position of the battery terminal posts - so they now sit closer to the middle of the battery (for a more "universal" fit and broader application). This can be a problem with the OEM battery cables - as they can come into contact with the metal battery hold down. If you look at the OEM battery hold down - that sits on top the battery - you will see that it is "notched" out where the battery terminal posts are originally - so that the battery cable terminal will not come into contact with the metal frame... Additionally - the battery terminal Posts are today a slightly different size than they used to be. The difference in size between the + and - posts have also been changed. Sometimes the old Cable Terminals will not tighten down correctly on the newer design battery terminal posts... The last time I looked - Interstate built the only Group 24 that still was a "close fit".. but it wasn't perfect. I've switched to using the Optima's... they don't fit perfectly either, but they don't leak battery acid down on your frame rails either... FWIW, Carl B.

I found a brand new 1996 300ZX TT for a friend at a Dealer in Texas...in 1998. There were still a few around the country then. FWIW, Carl B.

Put another way - you usually do not hear the starter relay click - because at the same instant you hear the starter solenoid kick the starter in.. or try too. So if you hear the relay, it's usually OK. The first thing to do is remove and clean the battery terminals. Just because they might look good on visual inspection - doesn't mean they are. So take them off, clean the terminals on the cables and the battery until you see clean shiny lead. Next check the battery water and then put the battery on a charger and make sure it is fully charged. Next reattach the terminals and make sure they are tight and making solid contact. If at that point the starter will not turn over - it's time to pull the starter and take it to be checked... Most major auto parts stores can do that for you.... call a few in your area before going... FWIW, Carl B.

No - you need Ported vacuum to run the vacuum advance. When you go to WOT manifold vacuum drops... where vacuum at the intake ports on a carb. increases. You would have to disconnect the vacuum advance on the 77 Z dizzy - and you need about 17 degrees initial timing. Webers need lots of initial timing off the line - because of the rich mixture supplied by the accelerator pumps... so something between 15 and 17 degrees initial - then you want a total of about 32/33 degrees all in by 2800 to 3000 RPM. Anything above 32 degrees and I'd bet you'll lose hp - but you have to put it on a dyno to know for sure. To re-curve either distributor you have to make adjustment to the mechanical advance weights and/or springs. Any good automotive electric shop will have a Sun Distributor Machine and they can re-curve the distributor timing for you. All of this also depends on the quality of fuel the Federal Government is telling the gas companies they have to sell in your area... It worked for me... Carl B.

Strikes me as priced too low... I'd think any MG fan would hit the buy-it-now.... Carl B.