Carl Beck

Fusible Link Wire is usually sold by it's rated amperage, as reflected by it's color. Most people don't bother to know the associated size in square mm. At any rate - I think you'll find the answer you need at: <a href=http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html TARGET=NEW>Atlantic Z</a> FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Is the original artwork - something other than the original photo's taken/used? I thought I was receiving the original negatives from the photog. Has something/someone else turned up? See the car? If he's here in Florida - why not simply list Name, address and phone number... like many of the rest of us have. FWIW, Carl B.

Do you mean that the engine was rebuilt by someone else - 25K miles ago? - if so, who knows how many total miles the block has on it ? You might trust your mechanic - but you don't have to trust the instruments he's using to take the measurements.... If he has sent it out to a machine shop for block work - you might want to stop by and ask to see what they are talking about - "egg shaped cylinders"??? That would be pretty unusual.... just a thought, Carl B.

Yes - As I recall it had about 570 some miles on it when I inspeced it before the final sale... As I recall the present owner said it was now 634. It is "as it left the showroom floor - Stickers still in the window, plastic wrap still on the seatbelts and as I recall still on the door panels - although I advised that be removed before the plastic went bad... Carl B.

Have to agree - that is a beautiful 280Z.. just the right color too. No it wasn't me, it was DougN that mentioned it - but the other one had 634 original miles on it. I arranged the sale - and it came from another friend, that is a SERIOUS COLLECTOR - that owned it since around 1980. Needless to say it sold for a significantly higher price than the one on E-Bay. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi DougN (everyone) He has The Finest collection of First Generation Z that you will find in North America.(as well as a very exceptional 84 50th AE and a 96 350Z Roadster). Like about seven or eight other individuals that are serious Collectors, he's been "buying in early" - anticipating seeing the First Generation Z's follow the Big Healey's of the 60's.. (now selling above $100K in some cases). First Generation Z's are now parked beside Ferrari's and very rare Porsches/BMW's in several Private Collections today. At 62 years of age, I've seen this happen several times. I sold my 55 T-Bird for $1,500.00 in 1970... sold my 62 Corvette a few years earlier for $2,500.00 (and that was top dollar). Knowing what to do and having the funding necessary to do it - are two different things. Right now I know at least seven or eight guys that have both knowledge and funds... The problem is finding the "perfect" original, super low mileage cars they want - paying for them is no issue. This small circle of serious Collectors - will continue to expand over the next five to eight years and the market values of the cars they want will be driven up and up. That in turn will drag up the #3 condition cars as well. Has anyone found a #4 or #5 Condition 55 T-Brid lately? Found any #4 or #5 Condition 64 Pontiac GTO's?... and #4 or #5 Condition 62/67 Corvettes? E- Type's? At some point there were hundreds if not thousands of them around.... The same thing is happening to 240-Z's and is being followed closely by the 280Z's. Very soon we Enthusiasts won't be able to afford to refresh nor restore our 240-Z's... so many of them will be driven into the ground, or simply rust past economic repair/restoration.. and they will wind up being parted out (or purchased with the intent of cannibalization). In a very short few more years - we won't have any "newbies" here in their 20's and 30's looking for a 240-Z that they can buy for less than $10K and drive daily... Just as no one expects to buy a 55/57 T-Brid for anything less than $45K (restorable) or $65K restored today. (the Top End T-Brids are over $225K now for an F Types). Sad but true... it's a very predictable life cycle for the Classics... FWIW, Carl BTW - #3 - Very Good: Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable NOS parts. #4 Good - A drive'able vehicle needing no or only minor work to be functional. #5 Restorable - Needs complete restoration of body, chassis, and interior. May or may not be running, but isn't weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts.

Hi Gary (everyone) Well - double the value may have been a bit of an exaggeration. -vbg- However, used, but exceptionally good condition parts are selling quickly on E-Bay (especially as they all become No Longer Available from Nissan). You don't have to spend much time following the prices they bring - to realize that it could be quite profitable to part some of these exceptionally low mileage examples out at this point - and resell the individual parts. Anyone that has started buying the parts necessary to just "refresh" a first generation Z recently will tell you that $10K doesn't buy much... Hold all those individual parts off the market for another 5 years and they will likely double in price. It's not just the Black Pearls... it's all the first generation Z's. The Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Cars that have some interesting history or story, in addition to limited quantities always bring higher prices than those that don't. Truthful stories or facts about a specific model simply add interest... talking points if you will ... that aren't associated with the rest of their production brothers. a) The Black Pearls were actually a "Test Market" to see if American Buyers would buy a Black Z Car. They sold quickly when they hit the Dealerships - and in 79 the 280ZX was available in Black (aka Black Gold!). For the most part of the 50's, 60's and 70's Black Sports Cars didn't sell well. The Sports Appearance Package - a must if the Black Pearl is to bring top dollar. c) While Nissan has never released the exact number of Black Pearls sold - they did say that they had at least one for ever Dealer. Believe it or not - some Dealers didn't want one, and other Dealers wound up with three or four. So it is "generally" believed that about 1000 of them were produced for 78. This also limits farther the number that survive in tact - there will be 200 regular production 280Z's for each Black Pearl. (1,000 out of 200,000). How many do you think are left out there in excellent all original condition? d). Collectors seem to favor owning either the First of the Breed or the Last of the Breed. So 1970 and 1978 Z's will lead the price ranges. The "mid-year" cars will always sell for less. The First of the Breed are considered the cleanest design, most true to the designers intent. The last of the Breed usually have the most "improvements" based on a few years in the hands of the consumers. The 78 Black Pearl is simply the most unique, of the last of the Breed. FWIW, just some general statements... nothing is absolute in the Collector Market.. Carl

Can't view Public Profiles... Carl B.

Who is "we"?.... GalaxyBJ and I had them when they were new<http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_smile_lachuh.gif> Carl B. Teeth and chain line up on the half link when the head has been milled (too far?) or if the cam tower shims are too thick?... You may know more once you get the head to a good machine shop and have it checked... No bright link, an aftermarket chain... or repairs done in a z shop with lots of spare used parts..

Yes - and one of my secondary points was that I remembered your main point - from when you corrected me the first time -VBG-..... see I called it a Lyon this time.... and not a Griffin. regards, Carl

Hi Stephen: Maybe the "Prince/Nissan" Lyon? The earliest I've seen the Lyon associated with Nissan - was with the merger Prince. I've never found any association of the Lyon with Datsun (other than by after-market sellers). FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks wannaz: Whoever bought that car for $16.5K got a super deal... but it shows us how much these cars are bringing when they get wide enough exposure. A 240-Z in like condition with like mileage would most likely bring $18K to $21K just as fast... (and I've seen a couple sell for $25K).. Cars like these Yellow and Black 280Z's - are where the smart money is going right now. Super clean, super original, exceptionally low mileage, documented cars selling for less than half what the cost to restore one would be. FWIW, Carl B.

No... I don't find it... but if it's the car I'm thinking of - that was a real bargain. Carl B.

The focus right now at BJ is still on the half million dollar Muscle Cars... but that too will pass... That Black Pearl would most likely do better at the auctions held with the Monterey Historic ... When you draw buyers willing to spend $225K + for cars.. usually that's the type of cars that will bring ever higher and higher bids... anything below that is too far below the buyer group to be of interest. For a car in the $35K range, it needs to be a Classic Car Auctions where the average cars are between $25K and $125K... Serious Car Collectors, not prestige buyers... Just how I see it... Carl B.

Hi Guys: I know the car - and the description is conservative. 28K miles, and all but brand new.. You could easily part that car out on e-bay and get twice the price. Or you could buy a very nice Black Pearl with 60K to 90K miles for $10K - then spend two years and $30K on it ... and it still wouldn't be as nice as this original car. At this point in time, $25K is still a bargain. For that matter, for cars like this anything under $35K is a good buy, because you can still find them. Five years from now you won't seen any for sale.. FWIW, Carl B.

No Problem - you have plenty of time to move the Wediding. Or worse case - you fly direct from Orlando the day of the Wedding, then return the same day. That would assure that you would be out of the way.. We all know that Fathers of the Bride are always in the way...:-) FWIW, Carl

Hi Montezuma Humm..... the last 240-Z on the Classic Z Car Register, on the Z Car Home Page is HLS30 168500 with a build date of 07/73. What URL are you looking at? The highest VIN reported so far in North America is HLS30 172715 with an 08/73 build date. (not on the Classic Z Car Register - but listed on the "Production Changes" page... What we have found vs whatever the Factory Documents state. Series I ended production sometime in 01 of 71 (70 and 71 Model Year) Series II ended production sometime in 10 of 71 (Late Model Year 71) Series III ended production sometime in 08 of 72 (72 Model Year) Series IV ended production sometime in 08 of 73 (73 Model Year) FWIW, Carl B.

But don't confuse a Red Line established 35+ years ago, for a new engine... for a safe Rev Limit for that engine with 35 plus years and 100K plus miles.... Unless you have owned and cared for the engine since it was new - pushing it to very high Rev's could easily kill it today... Carl B.

Given the price of the OEM Fuse Block - I'd buy the Motorsports replacement.. But that's only fixing a problem caused by something else - and that cause is still there. You need to relay the headlights, so that only low voltage is going though the fuse box and your headlight switch. You may save your headlight switch in the process as well. See: <a href=http://www.jaderunner.com/Auto/240Z/Docs/daves_harness.doc TARGET=NEW>Dave's Relay System</a> FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Randy: OK - given the goal and prescribed process - I agree with moompup. For a $4100.00 dollar paint job on a fairly clean 240-Z - I'd expect the body shop to remove all bolt on panels - and panel paint the car. Get a clear understanding with the body shop before you take the car too them - and always get a detailed list of the specific tasks to be performed. When I'm dealing with a new body shop (new to me) I always make a list myself - then sit down with the shop manager and go over it... When you reach agreement as to what's in and what not - have him sign it. If he won't - go somewhere else... I put all the issues on "me wanting to clearly understand and write down so I don't forget"... not on the body shop for not writing a proper and complete estimate to begin with - they are always very vague... and always lump many individual tasks into a single statement "Paint the Car"... If your working with a good shop - they won't mind your "newbie" questions at all. I make a list something like this: Provide a copy to the shop manager, take notes on your copy as you discuss the items with him... when your done, sign his copy and ask him review your notes and to sign your copy. I Will: A) deliver the car to the shop with all chrome, lights, trim, removed. I will strip the interior plastic panels, door panels and door hardware (windows, regulators, handles etc). I will strip the door thresholds, carpet and padding. C) I will expect a very professional job of body work and paint , to at least the standards of the original factory finish - however I fully realize that I am not building a Show Car, nor do I expect an $8000.00 job for half price. D) I will be stopping by the shop at least weekly - to see the progress, take pictures of the work in progress for my records. This is also important to have should I ever be forced to resell the car.. I have to be able to assure any future owner that the paint and body work were done to professional standards. The Body Shop Will: 1. remove all bolt on panels, and assure all fasteners are properly removed and replace.(no rusted nor busted bolts/nuts/washers left in hidden places, none left off the car) 2. all rust damage will be cut out and properly metal patched. No body filler, filling holes. 3. no body filler of any kind is to be applied to bare metal - all metal will be first repaired, then sealed with an epoxy primer - and any body fillers will be applied on top of the sealing primer. 4. the engine compartment will be completely sealed off - before any work is started. Above and below. Any wiring harnesses exposed in the front of the car will be mask off/sealed and NOT painted. (note - matter of fact, since your removing all the lights - remove the horns, and have them pull the wiring harness in front - back behind the radiator core support before they paint). 5. the car body, all body panels, door jams, rear deck threshold and jams, the front inner-fenders at the headlights will be properly prep'd and painted. (you need to look at this area, and show him where to break off the new paint - you may not want to paint the radiator core support , for example. 6. complete my car within 120 days. ( professional work at a professional schedule - anything less should cost less). I do not expect my car to become a "hanger queen", or a side job pushed aside month after month. If this is not acceptable - and agreed to - say so before we start. I usually offer a 10% premium for work completed on schedule - and expect a significant discount for work that runs more than one month over schedule. Most shops appreciate this - I give them the "premium" as cash on the side if necessary. Believe me - an extra $400.00 to get your car done on time and back in your hands is worth every penny!! - - - - - I'm sure there are other thing I'm forgetting... walk around the car with the shop manager when you drop it off - and answer any questions he has about what you want... Good luck... always remember that it's your money your spending and if you don't tell them what you want - no telling what you'll get. Carl B.

I quite bidding on E-Bay, when the started hiding the bidder ID's. Just too much opportunity for Shills getting into the bidding, and raising the stakes on their buddies cars, parts etc. I do believe that this latest move by E-Bay is an open invitation to extensive fraud.. which was bad enough to begin with. They are only trying to prevent any off-line sales or contact between/among the people that use E-Bay - to protect their profits. Screw the users.... f funny - this car was put up at no reserve this time.... hummm.... do you suppose he has a friend bidding? If you watch closely I believe you'll see this happen more and more FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Will: Sorry to join the thread so late... holidays and all ... and thanks for the help. Actually we have a group of peope working on the Judging Manual. Needless to say this is a multi-year project. Related to Part Numbers At Your Post #1 & #22 Map lamp assembly 26430-E4100 (Series I cars) 26430-E8200 (Series II cars) Your Post #23 Center air outlet grille 68834-E8200 (Series I cars) 68834-E4100 (Series II cars) Your Post #28 Comp-switch Hazard Warning 25910- E4600 (Series I - no words on knob) Comp-switch Hazard Warning 25910- E8300 (Series II - flash on knob) -- this is when they added the additional tail lights to the circuit and made wiring changes to the Light Switch and fuse box Comp-switch Hazard Warning 25910- E8800 up to 06/72 Comp-switch Hazard Warning 25910- N3300 07/72 up to 07/73 (green pull knob?) Knob -Switch Hazard Warning 29215-N3300 7/72 - 7/73 (I think this is the Green pull knob of the 73 Model year???) Earlier knob/levers... came only on the complete switch assembly. The tail lights themselves were also changed with the Series II cars. Rear turn signal unit - this was said to increase the life of the hazard switch. 26550-E4600 (3 light Series I) 1 Tail light and 1 Brake Light + reverse light 26555-E4600 26550-E4601 (4 light Series II) 2 Tail lights and 1 Brake Light + reverse light 26555-E4601 25410-E4600 Fuse Block (Series I) up to 12/70 25410-E8300 Fuse Block (Series II) from 01/71 25410-E8800 Fuse Block (72 &73 up to 07/73) FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Randy: Headlights Parking Lights Side marker lights Tail lights (and finisher if it's not already off) Take the rear latch/lock out of the tail gate Take the door handles and locks out of the doors Remove the radio antenna Drip Rail Trim Door panels and exterior stainless door trim (rubber wiper on the outside of the glass) Pull the interior plastic panels, and remove the rear quarter windows. Take the hubcaps off.... Take the headlight buckets off - and take them with the car to the body shop. If you plan or if the bid - repainting the door jam's and rear deck threshold area - YES you have to remove the weather stripping. Have the Body Shop - call a professional if necessary - and pull the windshield and rear deck glass - or have a professional glass man come to your house and remove it - You'll need to get new front and rear glass seals for the reinstall later. This is the only way to avoid having a "repaint line" around the seals. What you failed to tell us - is "what are you having painted to begin with" - a) just the top coat of the exterior of the car door jambs, rear deck threshold, and jam's c) are you retaining the original color? Point out to them - any area's you expect to be mask-off or covered.. like the bumper mounts, or the area under the lip on the rocker panels - you don't want over-spray all over places it shouldn't be. good luck, Carl

Hi Mike: Sounds like you found the best case - that being that the fill plug is still square enough to get a tight fitting wrench on, and then break loose with the application of sufficient dynamic torque. (I'm a big proponent of using a large brass hammer when necessary;-). Actually, I can't remember the last time I found a fill plug that wasn't all but completely rounded off. I now keep a few new ones on hand. As many here will attest - the use of Kroil Oil and Time - will also work wonders on any threaded or slip fittings that have frozen themselves in place. Kroil Pentrating Oil isn't real easy to get - as you have to order it on-line and wait for it to arrive at your door. It isn't cheap either, but it's worth it's weight in gold when you need it. Look for Kano Labs on line... Given the shipping costs I now order at least three aero-cans at a time. This year I ordered a case and give some as Christmas Presents to a few guys. I know they won't really appreciate it, until they put it on that first rusty bolt or screw they are trying to remove... I will mention also that these plugs when new, with the square external heads are in effect Pipe Plugs. As such, when they get too rounded off to hold a standard size wrench, your next best tool is a thin Pipe Wrench, aka a Monkey Wrench (thin is a relative term here)..It will tighten down on the plug as forced is applied (if you put it on the plug in the right direction:-) . Enjoy that 240-Z ..... there are really very few things on that car that the average guy/gal can't fix themselves. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Brendan: Since the Triple Webers do not provide for the use of the Vacuum Advance, you have to dial in a lot of initial advance at the crank. Because of that you also have to have a timing curve in your distributor that limits total advance to something around 34/35 degrees. Replacing the points with an electronic trigger will not address the above issues. Nor will adding a CD system. You could - take your distributor to a good Automotive Ignition Shop - and have them set it up such that at 1500 PRM you have 0 mechanical advance and by 3500PRM you have an additional 14-15 degrees (crankshaft degrees). With the vacuum advance mechism removed. Once that is done, you set your initial advance at the crank to 18-20 degrees. The question then becomes - do you rework your stock distributor, by adding the XR700 or Pertronix to replace the points, and having your distributor timing curve adjusted - or do you switch to an HEI ignition etc. One option is to switch to the later 280ZX electronic distributors/coils, or spend the big money on something like a Mallory UniLite distributor and their HyFire VI CD... I've been running the Mallory UniLite with a Pro-Master Coil for about 15 years now - with the triple webers.. and ignition has not been a problem. Your biggest problem with the triple Webers is - like someone else said - finding a truly competent tuner - that really knows not only the Webers, but how they have to be set up to run on the L6. Most of the time the 40DCOE's are delivered with primary chokes too large for the L6 on the street, and to make things worse they usually have the wrong combination of primary jets, emulsion tubes and accel. pumps. By the time you buy new primary chokes (28mm to 30mm at most), and all new jets etc for 6 individual set-up's... you'll have several hundred dollars in parts and postage. Plus the time the mechanic will need to work everything out... So you can set $600.00 to $800.00 aside to get the Webers set up to run right... Short of that you can dink around with them for years yourself and spend twice that amount. If you want a good running Z at a reasonable price, with very little hassle - get a set of rebuilt S.U.'s and sell the Webers...... If you have plenty of time and lots of money to throw at it - you can get the triple Webers to run just fine (but you won't have any better performance because of them, unless you do a lot more to the engine in total). Just my opinion... FWIW, Carl B.