Carl Beck

Hi Geoff: It is believed that Logan's yellow Z racer, which was Red, White and Blue in prior years.. and before that it was the BRE #3 Z. It is still being raced in Vintage events, having been restored to it's original BRE #3 colors etc. I say "it is believed" because many people believe it. Dan Parkinson doesn't however, as he is convinced that he wrecked the #3 BRE Z years after he bought it from BRE in 73. Others believe that Dan actually bought the #46 car and wrecked that one.... At any rate here's a picture of Logan's car in the late 70's... (thanks to Clark Lance of New Jersey for sending them to me). FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Tom: If the engine was left in the car and car stored inside - I wouldn't give up on it too soon. Especially if it ran well and didn't burn any oil before it was parked. I'd sure try to save it if possible, it's hard to get a better engine than the one the factory put together in the first place. You might want to read/follow this thread.. See Post #8 and forward.. at: <a href=http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619 TARGET=NEW> "Waking the sleeping beast"</a> good luck, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Marty: I've used SEM products for years. If you wipe the vinyl down with lacquer thinner - then apply a VERY LIGHT COAT of SEM Vinyl Dye, allow it to dry for 24 Hours, then buff with a soft cloth... it will wear will and well and not come off on your cloths. The lacquer thinner will soften the vinyl so the dye will soak in/or adhere. That said - I would not want to use it on the new seat covers unless the stained area is significant and there is no other way to clean it up...35 year old vinyl is not the best thing to attempt dying and the SEM might be a shade off the original.... in which case you'd wind up dying the entire surface of both seats... I'd try using a clean terry cloth rag, with some lacquer thinner to see if you can get the stain to lift off the vinyl. Make the terry cloth fairly wet with lacquer thinner ... hold it still on the stain for about 20 seconds.. then wipe gently, turning the rag to keep a clean surface in contact with the seat vinyl - and see if you can work the stain out.. (then wipe it dry). FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

In your frame of reference - what would be an "affordable" price range for a daily driver that you could depend upon? FWIW. Carl B.

Hi Guys: I may have introduced some confusion when I said "right to left"... I really should have said A, B, of C Left To Right.... da.... Anyway Bill - I'll note your vote for the one on the Left.. Z-137... when you said "A" did you mean the one on the far left as well? - or did you really follow my original Post and label the one on the far right as "A"?. Ah the 70's.... ashtrays and lighters in all cars..."your free to smoke'em of you got em"... later, Carl B.

Hi Steve: At 70 mph+ the Z builds quite a low pressure area over the hood, and at the same time it builds quite a high pressure area under the hood.. the result is that the hood emblem is literally sucked up off the hood surface, then the wind gets under it and lifts it higher still until it flies off.....the good news is that as it flies off the car, the high speed air flow picks it up quickly - so it never hits the windshield nor roof. Metal or plastic - their minor difference in weight doesn't really seem to be a factor. Although I do believe that the clips (no matter which you use) do seem to hold better to the metal studs.. You can use either 3M Emblem Adhesive, or any good Silicone Adhesive... just make sure it's not a silicone calk, sealant/adhesive. (some silicone products are marketed as multiple use..but their adhesive strength is far less than the single purpose silicone adhesives. The 3M Emblem Adhesive is what GM and Ford usually use... it's somewhat like their weatherstrip adhesive, in that it stays somewhat pliable (a type of RTV perhaps?) .. and you can pull the emblems off if necessary - then remove the adhesive with a little dab of lacquer thinner. I apply it to both posts, then run a very thin bead around the inside of the groove around the outer edge (see arrow in the picture below). That way it seals the outer edges of the emblem to the surface of the hood and prevents the airflow from getting under the emblem. Once you push the emblem in place, if a little adhesive oozes out - you can clean it up with a Q-tip and some lacquer thinner. In the picture below - the emblem on the Left is metal, the one on the Right is plastic and Nissan fasteners are below. While the Parts Catalogs show "Clip-Tublar".... the bag of them that I have on hand show "CLIP-PUSHING".... same part number nonetheless. These clips don't seem to be a problem when used on the emblems on the rear quarters.. I don't use them on the rear deck lid either.. mostly because they rust there as well as on the hood. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Steve: Part Number 63845-18000 Clip-Tublar up to 07/73 All the hood emblems I've seen have been held on with small tubular clips - I haven't ran across the factory use of speed nuts on the hood emblems. Although I wouldn't think it would be a bad idea as long as you can get to them in order to get them off again if necessary. That said - I wouldn't recommend the use of the original tubular clips, which push into the holes from the outside of the body, and which are steel.. because the holes wear larger than original, the clips rust and the hood emblem can blow off at higher speeds. (lost two before I figured out what was happening). I now mount my hood emblems with 3M Emblem Adhesive on the mounting studs and on the back of the emblem itself. Haven't lost a hood emblem, nor had a rust problem since. FWIW Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Mark: Good to see you here, and I'm sure you will have a lot to contribute. Aren't you glad you didn't sell that car in 2000? kind regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

And is there any rust on this 73? thanks, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Well that's encouraging news... If the car is solid - it's well worth the $8K number today. I'm amazed that cardogman1 didn't tell him it was worth $15K... I honestly expected a bottom price something closer to $10K.. $8K might be a little higher than one would want to go - for the basis of a complete and correct restoration - but personally I'd spend the extra few thousand to have a nice car to start with... it sure makes the process of restoration a lot more pleasant over the following couple of years.. thanks for the feedback... regards, Carl B.

If you let us know what budget you have in mind - it could greatly alter our advice. Are you thinking $5K or $25K? A 240-Z that is actually in beautiful conditoin and really road ready.. will run in the $9,500.00 to $14,500 range... Buy selectively and carefully in the $6K to $9K range today and you can realistically expect to have to put another $3K to $5K into the car... The bottom line is the more you can fund up front the less expensive in total cost the 240-Z will be. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

This is one of those 240-Z's that is really a "between" car. It isn't really low enough mileage to be close to the "Collector" market and it's overall condition shows that. On the other hand it really isn't the ideal car to start a full restoration on because it's actually too nice and therefore the selling price (if it sells) will be placed too high by the seller. So what or who will actually buy this car? Well if it checks out to be truly rust free as far as the floorboards and frame rails go... it "might sell" to someone looking for a car they can drive now, and fix up as they go along.... The problem there is that buyers with that approach in mind... really don't expect to pay $10K+ for a nice driver... The error in thinking (if you can call it that)... that this seller and most likely prospective buyers will make - is to place too much importance on the stated mileage. It very well may be 32K actual miles.. but in this case it is only One thing to consider... and really not the most important thing. While 32K miles is certainly "low mileage" - the car is still 36 years old.. and not having been driven daily/weekly/monthly by the owner - it has most likely been badly neglected as far as keeping it fully "road ready"... 32K mile or 132K miles... the new owner will still need shocks, brake lines, fuel lines and vapor lines, coolant lines/hoses, new weather stripping on the rear deck, new battery, etc. etc etc. The seats will still need to be rebuilt to proved any amount of support. The engine compartment will still need a lot of elbow grease and detailing... The car will need a new hood as that one on it now is bent on the nose.. the new paint on the new hood will never match the rest of the car... The front bumper is dented as well. To buy this car and end up with a 240-Z that is really road ready and very presentable... the future buyer will wind up putting another $5K to $7K into it.... The bottom line is - 32K original miles in this case doesn't relate to added value... it actually detracts from the value of the car. A couple of friends have 71 Z's with right at 100K original miles - and both cars are in far better condition than the one on e-bay. Both cars were driven by their previous owner quite often, and both were maintained in proper "road ready" condition... For $10K I'd take either of their cars with 100K miles over this one with 32K miles.. Just my thoughts... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Wait a minute... what is that behind the seat in the photo of the drivers seat... looks like a tool storage cover to me - yet the data plate shows 2/71 and VIN of 23175? It seems to have the right Series II rear quarters.. with the vents... Would be interesting to see what type of seat belts it has in it.. I can't see - but are those the "flip forward" seats? Got to be worth $1700.00 shipped to your house at any rate.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: Thank you so much.... that is very good feedback. I'll forward your results to all the members in the original group purchase, as well as to the guys at Courtesy. Your observations related to the front strut's installed height is most interesting - and it rings a far away and somewhat faint bell.... Somewhere, at some time, I believe I read that the Euro Spec. 240-Z's had front struts with their bottom spring perch set at a different height than the US Spec. cars... The bottom line then is - your car is sitting about 1/4 inch higher than the US Spec.'s show... and it's actually about 1/2 to 3/4 inch higher in front than expected.... Sounds like you could take about 2 coils off the top in front.. and maybe 1 to 1 1/2 coils in the rear????? regards. Carl B.

It was actually pretty easy for the previous owner. He had HLS30 00157 in May of 1970. Drove that about 32K miles before he took it completely apart to "put a decent pain job on it"... After #157 was properly restored, he bought a Wine colored 78 280Z to drive (because it had A/C )... then saw the first Black Pearl.. Bought it just to have another "new" Z when he wanted one... as he had heard the body style was going to change in 79... So he just added the Black Pearl to his Collection (a rather extensive collection of many many thing)... He never did wear out that Wine colored 280Z... today it has about 80K miles on it (and still looks new).. His 48 Chevy has almost 28K miles on it, and his 65 Mustang is approaching 10K miles.. When you have 20+ cars and 45+ Harley's... it really is hard to drive them all more than a few miles per year! He still has his fathers 32 Ford Pick-up.. that thing is really getting up there now.. it has almost 40K miles on it.. Now approaching 80 years of age.. he's starting to place a few of the cars and other objects he's loved so much for so many years - in the hands of people he believes have both the resources, and the will, to preserve them for yet the next generation of fanatic Collectors. In general that is exactly how cars like that survive the decades... to delight us at shows and museums around the country. FWIW, Carl B.

Sorry - I guess I didn't refresh my screen... took me a few minutes to find the engine photo, resize it and up load it ... and I didn't see your last Post.. Nonetheless.. it's a great picture of Pure Stock and 100% Original... regards, Carl B.

The Fuel Rail was changed 8/77. So the 78 280Z's have the newer type. The picture below is a 78 Black Pearl with 643 miles on it. FWIW. Carl B.

I haven't seen a "stock" 280ZX Turbo on a dyno... but I'd guess that they would be in the 140 to 150 RWHP range. The Factory rating was as I recall 180HP. I have seen a few L28ET's "mildly modified".. with the addition of intercoolers, free flowing exhaust, etc etc.... running boost limited to 10/11 lbs... They put between 215 and 235 RWHP down.. Carl B.

got it and responded.. regards, Carl

I believe that 135 number was based on estimates or approximations - if you wanted to convert 1/4 Mile Speed/weight to HP numbers. Depending on what trap speed and which weight... the early road tests reported for stock cars.. it comes out between 130 and 140HP. If you use the BRE C-Production 1/4 mile trap speed of 108mph and you guess that in racing form it weighted about 2300 lbls with the driver... the rule of thumb shows 243.8 HP... which is a little low.. but then it's a rule of thumb... just an approximation... The BRE engines were said to put out something over 250HP on the engine dyno's.. FWIW, Carl B.

Right behind the right rear tire.. there is an access panel held in the inner-fender by about four small screws. Take the RR Tire off to get it out of your way... remove that access panel ... and you should be able to get your hand on the filler hose and filler neck of the tank. There is a large hose clamp that holds the filler neck to the tank - remove it... then as you drop the left side of the tank down - - very gently rock the tank fore/aft, then up/down and usually the filler neck will drop out of the filler hose.. Be careful as you rock the tank - that you don't bend the body work below the rear bumper..

Rotate the engine to the point at which it stops... add more ATF to the cylinders and let it sit for at least 8 hours... then work it back and forth by hand. Then rotate it the opposite direct to where it stops.. add more ATF, let it sit for at least 8 hours - and work it by hand again. Yes it is possible that when it broke loose, it left some crud ridges above or below a couple of the rings. Your better than half way there.. take your time and let the oil soak.. Sounds like you will be able to save this engine!! As Gary mentioned - leave the valve cover off while you are rocking/rotating the engine - and watch to see that all the valves are returning to their full closed positions... That "bar" that runs along the rockers is the "oil spray bar". It is not unusual for them to come loose or come apart. Unbolt it from the cam tower - clean it out real well and solder the loose end back in. good luck, Carl

Hi Jared: While Brian Little's web site offers a lot of useful information and it's easy to understand - I'm afraid there are several statements there that can be misleading, or are simply wrong. The 82 280ZX Turbo with the T-5 could be specified from Aug. of 1981 forward... ie. the 1982 Model Year. FWIW, Carl B.

The front and rear weights are from the US Factory Service Manuals... so yes, they are for LHD models. So far, I have not found an explanation for why the 40lb difference, but I would think you are right - the battery. If you add all the corner weights up they come to 2436lbs.. and that's about what the "curb weight" is. So no driver nor passenger, with oil and 1/2 tank of gas. Carl B.

I haven't seen too many of the stock "L" series engines actually measured at the crank, so I don't know about that. However if you use the stated HP numbers for the 240-Z and 280Z... of 151 and 165 respectfully.. then they lose about 25% at the rear wheels. Most of the stock L24's that I've seen dyno'ed at the rear wheels put about between 110 and 115HP. Most of the L28's in stock form seem to come in around 120 to 130HP. So it would seem that a rough rule of thumb would be 25% loss between reported HP and RWHP on the First and Second Generation Z's here in the US. All this is at best - just a rough rule of thumb... FWIW, Carl B.