Carl Beck

Hi Nathan: Your "Front End Loader"...comment made me laugh out loud. Max, my dog goes everywhere with me in the truck... So when it's time to go to the Cypress Saw Mill for mulch... Max goes with me. As this huge Front End Loader scoops up 3 cubic yards of mulch, and starts to approach the truck - Max is transfixed, I can see him thinking "what the hell is THAT".... I thought he was going to jump out of the truck when the Front End Loader dumped that mulch in the bed!! I was laughing out loud, as he looked at me with one of those "did you see that?".. looks that only dogs can get... Took three trips to fill the area around the back of the garage initially, then about one trip per year to refresh it. Good thing it's only about three miles from the house.. as three yards fills that 8' bed to above the cab roof. 5 gallon buckets... just put 5 of them filled with paint, 5 filled with primer, 5 filled with roof paint and 1 filled with trim paint in the truck for my latest project - repainting the house. Then picked up a high pressure washer and airless paint system.... Can't fit that in the Yukon XL either. Just too funny... regards, Carl B.

Sure - you can count a good neighbor that will loan you his truck as well. (my truck is a family truck when my son needs it .. and a neighborhood truck every once-in-awhile).. Carl B.

Depending on the actual, very specific, Judged by a Qualified Judge... condition of the car today... In the Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Car Market - there are a couple of demarcation lines that are important to keep in mind, as we consider the relative market values... now and in the future. If we use the usual Condition #1, #2, #3, #4 and #5 categories for example... you will find that the values of these cars First - and IN GENERAL... Condition #1 and #2 Cars are very very close in over-all condition. They would both win National Level Car Show Competitions in their Stock Class. A #2 car will win, so long as a #1 Car didn't show up and so long as the Judges really know how to judge the specific models. In the Collector Market - the #1 and #2 Condition cars demand/hold values 50% to 80% more than a #3 Condition Car. So if a #1 or #2 Datsun 240-Z is selling for between $25K and $30K today... a #3 Car will sell for between $16.5K and $20K. Over time from this point forward ... as the #1 and #2 condition cars grow steadily in value at between 10% and 15% per year.. the #3 cars will simply hold their value if they are maintained in #3 Condition. So several years from now a #1 or #2 240-Z might very well be in the $35K to $40K range... that #3 car will still be $16K... and maybe by then it will become a #4 Condition car... So we have at this point in time - a demarcation point .... between the #1, #2 Cars and the #3 or lower cars. The reason is that #3 Cars are driven.. everything on them gets older and more worn. They are kept in the garage (non A/C and non Humitity Controlled space). Restoring them in the future will cost far more than it does today - as all parts and services go up in price. Over the next five to ten years you will most likely see the difference between the #1, #2 cars and the #3 cars grow ever wider. Past the ten year mark, as true #3 cars become ever more rare... "IF" the Concours Examples are fetching $50K +... then you'll see the values of the #3 cars start to close the gap again.... The bottom line is - if you have a real #3 Condition 240-Z today - it would win most local or even perhaps a few State Level Z Car Shows... and may take 1st in the "Import" category at many open car shows... If you drive it and enjoy showing it every once in a while... Keep it and Enjoy it... but know that it will cost you something to own.... if you maintain it in great shape it should hold it's value... but it won't keep up with the real Collector Quality examples. #4, #5 quality cars will stay about the same in value for many, many years... "IF" they stay in the same condition they are in today - but that usually is not the case... usually they wear with more age and it shows... FWIW, Carl B

Hi Mike: First - Don't get near the car with a starting battery.... until you have everything ready to actually start the car. Can't tell you how many people damage a perfectly good engine, simply because they get in a hurry - and want to see if it will crank over, let alone start. You don't want to wipe out a good cam, or scuff the rings/cylinders by forcing crud, that's built up from sitting for prolonged periods past the rings or running dry cam lobes over their rockers... So lets hope no one had dinked with the car... before you got it... Did you get the hood open yet?... Prior To Start-up: 1. As mentioned, I'd drain the gas tank and see what comes out. If it's full of rusty partials - drop the tank and have it boiled out (some radiator repair shops off that service). Plan on replacing the old rubber fuel lines as well as the vapor recovery lines that run into the passenger compartment. You will more than likely have to do this anyway - as the vapor recovery lines leak gasoline vapor into the passenger compartment - and it will give you headaches and drive you out of the car. Do it now and be done with it. It's not fun, takes some time - but you'll be glad you did it all at once.... 2. As mentioned, replace all the fuel lines in the engine compartment. 3. No doubt you need to check the carb's for operation - the vacuum slides get stuck... pull them apart and clean them... The flat tops look odd - but they are pretty much the same as the earlier SU's.. as far a basic operation goes.. 4. Might as well replace the upper and lower radiator hoses - you'll have to do that anyway - do it now before you loose the fresh coolant you put in later. 5. Pull the spark plugs and poor a couple ounces of ATF in the cylinders... let it sit over night.. poor a little more in the next day... then - see if you can rotate the crank pulley by hand... if you have a large Strap Wrench it helps... of course you'll remove the old fan belt first - as you have already bought a new one... (when you bought the new hoses, oil, filter, coolant)... If you can't rock the crank back and forth by hand - put the car in low gear and push the car forward/backward (air the tires up and it's easier to hand push!). The idea here is to break the cylinder rings loose, and get some oil between them and cylinder walls. The ATF is very high detergent and very thin... Once you break the cylinders loose by rocking the car - poor a bit more ATF in the cylinders and see if you can now rock the engine back and forth by hand... 6 - Now drain the old oil - replace with fresh oil and new filter... 8. Install new NGK BP6ES spark plugs 9. Install new starting battery... and make sure that the oil battery cables are in good shape and very clean at the terminals.. 10. Remove the valve cover - and poor some clean oil over the cam lobes and rocker arm pads..replace the valve cover - (just check to be sure all the rockers are on/in-place..) 11. pull the wire from the coil - and crank the engine over rapidly - you should at least see the oil pressure gauge move... at least a little to indicate your getting oil pressure... replace the coil wire and crank it over - it will take a few seconds to get fuel though the new lines and into the carb.'s... USE THE CHOKE! (you almost always have to choke the old Z's to get them started when the engine is cold). If it doesn't start - then you can start checking for Fuel at the Carb.'s - and Spark at the plugs etc... From the picture - it looks like a car worth saving... good luck, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Guys: My daily driver is an 88 Chevy 1500 Long Bed (8') Pickup. Basic truck with wind up windows, rubber mats (no carpet) and 257,000 miles. I'll most likely keep it and drive it until one of us passes away. Whoever remarked that you can't have a house without a Pick-up is certainly right as far as I'm concerned. To tell you the truth, I've become quite attached to the poor old thing. It has always done anything I ask of it, I can leave the keys in it and no one will steal it. I can park it in any parking lot and no one ever opens a door against it. The paint is pealing off like sunburned skin.. but the A/C still works even if the A/T is getting weak. I can throw anything in the bed, without the first worry about denting it or scratching the paint. It's always outside and always the first thing I jump in to drive. I've gone out several times with the full intention of buying a new PU... but came home without one every time. I just can't see putting $30K into something that is depreciating rather than appreciating. I have to admit to suffering from Sticker Shock each time as well. The Nissan Titian Crew Cab... at around $21K on sale... is looking better and better.... but so far I just can't make myself do it... My wife has a 2000 GMC Yukon XL... we love it. She also has a 91 Thunderbird Super Coupe as her "collectible". She's the original owner and has about 9K miles on it. I put a 100,000 miles on my 89 SC and sold it a couple years ago..(should have just stuck that one away too)... FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

Hi Chris (everyone) Not to dispute Cdavid's claims...<brg> Actually - the clock face for the JDM Fairlady Z was designed after the watch pictured. According to Kats when he originally posted the picture. The watch was special order made for Mr. Matsuo by Citizen Watch. Mr. Matsuo's watch, as well as the clock in the Fairlady Z, had stop watch features, not included in the Datsun 240-Z's exported. Nonetheless, the wrist watch that reflects the 240-Z's clock face is a pretty neat idea. Perhaps someone can have the Fairlady Z's Clock with it's stop watch functions - reproduced as a wrist watch as well. FWIW, Carl B.

Neat Watch: So are you going to tell us where you got the watch? Did you have it made for you - are you going to offer them For Sale before someone else does? thanks, Carl

Hi RJ: I know of several private sales where the prices paid for First Generation Z's has exceeded $30K and one went for over $39K. I think that we'll see private sales exceed $50K in the next few years for the super rare, perfect, extremely low mileage stock production cars in the group. (if the over-all economy holds..) While I personally haven't seen the money change hands - it would seem that the market for Z432's in Japan runs in the $65K to $125K USD range. I would think that one of the few remaining Factory Works 240-Z's would sell today in that range as well. I personally felt that Keith Martin held lower expectations than reality. Especially given the fact that Nissan sold about 38 Vintage Z's all above the $24K range back in 98/99. By 2003 I sure couldn't find a "restored 240-Z" here in the States for $12K. "Restored" meaning as the term is used in the Collector Car Market. I will say that Keith and others may simply be following the public auctions; but that really isn't tracking the market. Many collector cars are taken to auction only after they fail to sell privately, which usually means they weren't of a high enough quality to begin with. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Stephen (everyone): From that statement, I might get the impression that you view the "collector car market-at-large" as a more or less static group of people. In my lifetime, it hasn't actually seemed to that way. The truth is that the market-at-large didn't recognize the value of Muscle Cars 20 years ago either. At that point it was the Exotic Sports Cars that were fetching unbelievable prices. (Ferraris, Gull Wing 300SL's) A 68 Shelby Mustang 500KR was worth about $18K then, and now sells for well over $125K now. A Ferrari Dayton was worth upwards of $500K then and now sells for around $150K. Looking at the dynamics of the collector car market, it would seem that the Z's are now being recognized, and if they follow the usual trends you might see a $50K Z in a couple of years. Of course the super rare one's are already well over that amount, but not yet really in the market-at-large as they change hands with private sales. Nonetheless, I'd have to say that the market-at-large is just starting to recognize the Datsun 240-Z and its place in automotive history. FWIW, Carl B.

If you have a NAPA Parts Dealer near you - their ZOOM Clutch Kits are the way to go. If not, then I'd bit the bullet and buy OEM Replacements from the local Nissan Dealer. Depending on what car it's for - make sure you have the right throw-out bearing collar, to match the Pressure Plate height of the new Pressure Plate. If it's a Type B 5spd, out of a 77-83 Z, then get the throw-out bearing collar that originally came with it, and order the clutch kit for the 77-83 Z's. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

What City Would That Be In? Carl B.

Well.. looks like my memory isn't too good... Here's a comparison in April 72 Road & Track... on the Crown Turbo vs. Stock vs. the BRE C-Production Z. I believe we have an IZCC Member, that is also in the Gateway Z Club - that might still be running his Crown Turbo Set-up. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Alan: A truly unique and wonderful car to own - and an even better story to go with it. It doesn't get any better that than. Thanks for posting the pictures - the restoration looks top notch. Perhaps you could start it up and send us an audio clip.... or a small video. I couldn't be happier for you. regards, Carl B.

According to the 72 Field Service Manual: Gear Carrier to rear differential mounting member - lock nuts Torque: 7.5 to 9.5 kg-m (54.2 to 68.7 ft-lb) There is only one washer between the nut and the mustache bar. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

CROWN Mfg. was one of the first to put a Turbo on the Z.. they used the one S.U. in their set-up. As I recall that was around 74 or 75. <a href=http://zhome.com/picturelibrary/turbol24.jpg TARGET=NEW> See Picture Here</A> FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Stephen: You don't have to remove the stainless steel window frame. You can take the glass out, and put it back in, with the frame in place. The window frame/regulator etc might be loose as it is mounted to the inner sheetmetal of the door - or the glass migh be loose where it attaches to the metal frame that holds it. I'd check the mounting points on the inner door sheetmetal first.. and if that doesn't do it.. Then take the window out. The glass will come out through the opening in the top of the door - but you have to slightly pry the opening apart most of the time. This is always a good place to have an extra set of helping hands.. The widest part of the window has to come out by the area where the door push button/lock is.. at the rear of the door. Taking the window out - and putting it back in is a snap - Once you have done it five or six times in a month. The first time it can be quite frustrating as you attempt to get all the rollers on the regulator in their proper position relative to the guides they slide in - and they have to be in EXACTLY their proper position to all fit in place a the same instant in time... I've scanned a page from the Factory Service Bulletin - - re read it as you go along and it will make more sense... good luck, Carl B.

You and your girlfriend are walking down a trail in the Rocky Mountains.... it's a beautiful day, you are in love and you are happy that she is there looking up to you. The two of you step over a fallen log and as you glance up ahead in the trail - you see a Rattle Snake sunning himself ahead. What do "YOU" do? = = = = = a) You are an intelligent individual. A man experienced and knowledgeable in the ways of the wild outdoors. You know that a Rattle Snake presents great danger to you and your girl, so you step back in reverse slowly, put the log between yourself, your partner and the Rattle Snake... You then find a safe path around the danger ahead. You want to assure that your pleasant day in the woods end in the Resort Hotel Bed, not the Hospital Bed. You an intelligent individual. You have years of experience hunting and killing Rattle Snakes. You know from that experience that a Rattle Snake will kill you, without any regret, without any guilt and most of all without any hesitation given the chance. With your left arm, you push your girl friend behind as you step ahead and draw your sidearm.... BANG! You blow that crawling demon to hell. You walk forward, assure the viper is really dead; and it is of course because you are a dead shot, and you blew its head off. You pick it up and as your coiling it up to put in your back-pack, you say to your girl friend; "Great, we now have a Rocky Mountain Treat for dinner." The two of you now proceed forward on the tail and your happy. You happy because like the Rattle Snake, you are not only wiling and able to kill, but you enjoy it and never have a regret taking the life of a Rattle Snake. c) You believe yourself to be an intelligent individual. You see the Snake ahead, but your are not really sure what it is. So you and your Girlfriend approach for a closer look. As you get closer you hear the Snake shaking it's Rattle. NOW you realize your dealing with a Rattle Snake, but hey - this could be fun and besides you don't want to show any fear in front of your Girlfriend. So against her protests, you grab a stick and start to poke the Rattle Snake, from what you consider a safe distance. You think it will back down and crawl away.. leaving your path clear. Instead, the snake coils and strikes, hitting you in the right leg. Your girlfriend steps forward in a panic to assist you - and she gets hit as well. Now to the two of you are in a life threatening situation..but the Rattle Snake having used up all it's venom, but unharmed, goes blissfully along his way. As you lay there dying with the one you love... you are thinking - with your new found experience, practical education and now wisdom - "what a Fool I Am!" "How stupid can one person be?" = = = = = = = = = So the question Jeremy is: Which person "a)", "b)" or "c)" above were you, in the situation you described? Even more importantly - which person are you now? With the right answers, you might live to be an old man like me... I hope you do. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Enrique: As we always say - anything is possible. Nonetheless the Metallic Blue 240-Z's into the US came with a white interior. If the picture shown is the car, it may have a "stock" interior, but I doubt it's the original one. For many years white diamond vinyl, seat upholstery and plastic panels were not available, and many white interiors (as well as blue) were swapped out for Black. Usually if you pry back the trim around the headliner, you'll find signs of the original white interior, unless the swap was done by a real fanatic. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Marty: Fill the block with water first.. don't put anti-freeze/coolant in until after you've brought the engine up to full operating temp.s. to check for leaks... If you find anything leaking it's better to deal with just water anyway. Anti-freeze/coolants will leak where plain water won't.. but I've found that if you start with plain water - you're less likely to find leaks when you do put anti-freeze/coolant in. A few thermo cycles on the engine will help assure it's sealed up as well. Watch the freeze plugs... good luck, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Arne: I don't know what year that set came on - but that type was introduced on the Series II 240-Z's, begining production 01/71. They are much more convenient for sure. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://Zhome.com

I guess I didn't realize you couldn't see the entire article - I think it should be fine now, give it a try and see if it all loads. It is broken into two hyper-linked pages to allow the image files to download a bit more quickly. <a href=http://zhome.com/Classic/240ZFloorboards/ChrisFloorboards.htm TARGET=NEW> Replacing 240-Z Floorboards</a> FWIW Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Actually it is just about the same. Contributed by Chris Thorne, to the Z Car Home Page as well as here, in the hopes of gaining broader exposure to share his efforts. I could simply find it there easier, and thought it would be helpful to a new member to the Z Car community. Chris only dropped out one image, that contributed little to the process. But tried to clarify any vague phrases in the original discussion. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Tim: I guess the question and response belong here... so same answer anyway.. <VBG> Nothing like jumping right in... If you have a plasma cutter, we'll have to guess that you are pretty good at welding... or are you just jumping right in there too<vbg>. There's a pretty good article on the <a href=http://ZHome.com TARGET=NEW>Z Car Home Page</a> - in the "Classic and Collectable Z's" Section. or use the direct URL: <a href=http://zhome.com/Classic/240ZFloorboards/ChrisFloorboards.htm TARGET=NEW> Replacing 240Z Floorboards</a> Good to see you join the group, I'm sure you'll not only have fun with the restoration project, but come away with a great appreciation for the Datun 240-Z. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Tim: Good to see you join the group, I'm sure you'll not only have fun with the restoration project, but come away with a great appreciation for the Datun 240-Z. I moved the answer about the floor pan replacement to the other thread you started.. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Mark (everyone) Thanks for checking on that. So far, the lowest engine serial number we've located that came in an A/T equipped Z, with the "Nissan OHC" valve cover, is in the 011600 range... with a production date of 08/70. One of the reason's we've tried to gather data related to A/T's and original engine serial numbers - is so that we can get at least an idea of how many L24's were received, that originally had the "2400" on them. The numbers aren't perfect, but it looks like something close to 9,000 Series I cars came to the USA with the "2400" valve covers. Given that people have been collecting them or saving them for many years now - it would seem that more of the "2400" valve covers are still around than the cars they originally came on. Not earth shaking, but just another fun item to collect... FWIW, Carl B.