Carl Beck

Hi Vissan: Do you mean you found a used Weber, as in "one" 4 barrel? Or do you mean you found a used set of triple Webers, along with the linkage and manifold - for $1000.00. If they are in good condition - and presently running on an L series engine - then yes, $1,000.00 would seem to be in the ball park for them. They can range from $500.00 to $1,200.00 depending on the completeness and condition of the set-up. Good chrome air cleaners for them are about $75.00 each as I recall... so add or subtract if they are included or not. I have had lots of experience with triple Webers - I wouldn't recommend them today. I bought and installed mine back in the mid 70's... then spent twice as much as they cost new, on trying to get them properly tuned on my car. No, I wouldn't recommend them today... That said, many people simply like the "look" of them on the Z Engine, and/or the sound of them at WOT... Get a set of SU's off the 70-72 240-Z's, including the intake manifold, linkage and air cleaner. Then send the old SU's to "Z Therapy" as an exchange for a set of their Re-manufactured SU's. For about $750.00 you'll have a good running set up, that will supply all the air/fuel your L26 can call for. If you want more of a "project".. or something not so common... opt for a Fuel Injection set-up. There are several alternatives to look at - just do some research on HybridZ.com. Good luck, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Brian: Can you tell me what the artists name, written below the left rear tire on the drawing of the #46 car is? It's just a bit too small to make out from the image. thanks, Carl B.

Hello Jim: Thanks so much!! I've been trying to find any linkage of that Griffon with DATSUN for quite some time. Years ago, the Datsun Dealers sold this Pocket Patch (see attached) over the Parts Counters - but no one could tell me how it was associated with "DAT", "Datson" or "Datsun"... it certainly isn't a little hare. As you can see the Pocket Patch isn't an Offical Datsun nor Nissan product, but was produced by an after-market supplier. I've also seen that Griffon on after-market gear shift knobs.

Hi nightowlZ: I have slightly different advice... take it for what it's worth. If you have the $600.00 spend it on the carb.'s. Learning to tune the S.U.'s can be fun and easy "IF".. you start with a set that is capable of being "tuned". Disassembly and cleaning, setting the floats etc. can be fun and easy - "IF" you start with a set that's in good condition to begin with. Attempting to install, then tune a set that is loaded with all kinds of other problems, for your first time - will be frustrating if not self defeating. Just looking at the pictures of the set you show - would give at least an indication that they are FAR from factory spec. in many regards, and they have already been molested by a less than proficient tuner. Believe me when I say that attempting to properly diagnose and correct three, four or five problems, all occurring at the same time - with a Set of SU's - when you are just learning about how they are supposed to operate, is NO FUN. Leaks around the throttle shafts, bent or malfunctioning hardware, bent fuel metering rods, maladjusted floats, etc etc etc - will all effect any "adjustments" you attempt to make, and the outcome of the recommended "adjustments" will not be as described etc etc. Anyone can "learn".... most people can learn more quickly if they work with someone that knows what they are doing and have experience doing it.... But if you are on your own, my best advice is to start learning how to adjust and tune - on a set of "known good" SU's. Once you have experience with a good base line, then you'll easily move on to dealing with more complex or compound problems. Spend the $600.00 on the rebuilt SU's - save money on labor that you can do without so many compounding "what if's"... In the mean time you'll have a car running right that you can enjoy, instead of fighting with. Springs/shocks etc can all come after... In either case, good luck. Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA

Hi Keith: As Kats seems to have left the area - The 5" wide steel wheels became standard equipment on the Series III (1972 Model Year, Production started 09/71 is reported by Nissan to have started at VIN HLS30 46000 - but a few earlier cars seem to have been built to the Series III spec.) Carl B.

Hi Chris: Why would a discussion of the development and growth of the Japanese Auto Industry get out of hand? Let's just not let it. It's a tremendous success story, from cottage industry to Industrial Giant in 30 years. To many books to count, have been written about the subject. Even more fascinating was the Strategic Planning and execution of Tactics involved in that evolution. IMHO - we should all be encouraged to know more about it. In the mid-50's the Japanese Auto Industry fully recognized that their domestic market was too small to support the mass production levels necessary to bring unit costs and thus consumer prices in Japan, down to affordable levels. In 1957 Mr. Kawamata, as President of Nissan Motors, outlined his Strategic Plan For Nissan's Growth by exporting cars to the USA. (as did most of the Japanese Auto Industry - it wasn't just Nissan). With mass production, unit prices could be brought down, and a domestic auto market could be grown. Nissan Motors moved with amazing speed from 1958 to 1970... to fully implement their export strategy in America. Indeed Nissan was establishing footholds in many other Countries around the world, but really nothing anywhere close to the export efforts to America. If you have an interest in even earlier history - pre WW-II - One new book that I would recommend to anyone with an interest - is now available for purchase, translated into English from the original Japanese - on the Internet... is: " William R. Gorham - An American Engineer in Japan" is a book originally written by the "William R. Gorham Memorial Committee in 1950 (his fellow Japanese Engineers), and recently translated into English by his Grandson Don Cyril Gorham. William R. Gorham went to Japan in 1918 and is credited by the Japanese Auto Industry with many significant contributions to their automotive success in general and Nissan Motors in particular. You can order a copy of the book on-line at: <a href=http://www.lulu.com/ TARGET=NEW> Lulu.com</a> The main focus of the original Post was wining market share via "Quality" products - wasn't it? Another American is regarded as a prime factor in Japan's Total Quality Initiatives to this day. I believe that Japan still awards the "Deming Prize" for Total Quality Management to their highest achievers. For that matter Nissan Motors Ltd. won a Deming Prize for Manufacturing in 59/60. Yes, it was Yutaka Katayama's following of the Deming Philosophy of Total Quality Management - that drove him to constantly lobby Nissan Japan, to design and build the specific cars his customers wanted in America... ie. Customer Driven Product Design. If you want to see what influence Mr. K had, in the growth and development of Nissan Motors Ltd... you can read: Akira Kawahara's "The Origin of Competitive Strength - Fifty Years of the Auto Industry in Japan and the US" (ISBN 4-431-70223-7), if your interested. There is also an entire chapter devoted to Mr. K's accomplishments and influence in David Halberstam's "THE RECKONING". ( ISBN 0-688-04838-2). Ford compared to Nissan... a real eye opener!. A fascinating subject for many of us... Some might see it as "Japan" vs. "America", but most of use see it as a successful partnership for both. Can you imagine what junk we might be driving today if the original Big Three had held their monopoly on auto sales in the US? (Vega, Pinto..yeiks!) FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - Japan has its sights set on greatly increasing exports to Western Europe now. Mr. G announced a goal to greatly increase market share for Nissan in Western Europe as part of his turn around plan for Nissan Motors Ltd. With the EU making it easier to comply with more standardized import laws, and the dropping of the restrictions on Japanese car imports to Western Europe in 2000; Nissan, Toyota and Honda finally see the opportunity to compete in that market. In 2002 the Japanese had captured only 11.5% of the European market. With old trade barriers finally removed - you can bet we'll see some serious competition for automotive sales in Europe by Nissan, Toyota and Honda... FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

That after-all is exactly what we American's wanted wasn't it !! At no time in human history has a such a vicious and bitterly hated enemy been so completely devastated by a conquering force - and then so well treated immediately after, than Japan. The Japanese once freed to compete, structured for success, and given a few good helping hands along the way; certainly are fine examples of the old saying; "do as I say - not as I do.". Yes, the Japanese are winning in the boardroom - God Bless them... and no one could be happier about it than America. I wonder what the value of the stocks and bonds issued by Japanese Corporations, and held in the hundreds of thousands of American Retirement Accounts, amounts too? The truth is that today there are no "American", no "Japanese" automobile companies. There are Automobile Companies, with headquarters in several different Countries - but ownership is held on a world wide basis, and automobiles are marketed on a world wide basis. Nissan Motors Ltd. is head-quartered in Japan, with controlling ownership by the French, producing automobiles for the American market in America.... All is as it was intended... we encouraged competition and we rewarded the best competitors. Along the way our one time worst enemy, is now one of our best friends. It's really a great story for human history. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Anyone know where or why Datsun used the Griffon on the keys shown prior to Oct. 67? I've never found any reference to it in any Datsun/Nissan documents nor history. Carl B.

Not having the original engine cost him about three to four grand. Carl B.

Hi Marty: I don't believe you can't make the Type A clutch fork work with the Type B 5spd. The two forks are different lengths and the absolute position of the pivot in the two transmissions are in different places in relative space. I may be remembering this incorrectly.. but there are several things going on when it comes to getting the right combination of parts related to these tranny swaps. The "original" Pressure Plate used in the 70-73 240-Z was actually the thickest. That is to say that the distance measured between the flywheel (with no clutch plate installed) to the top of the fingers on the Pressure Plate is the greatest of any of the Pressure Plates. Thus the Throw-out Bearing Collar from the Type A tranny, in the 70/71 240-Z's is the SHORTEST of them all. (see below URL). With the switch to the Type B 4 spd., came the switch to the self adjusting clutch, and in turn a shorter clutch fork (which changes the amount of movement at the Throw-out bearing...so the Type B 4speed used the longest Throw-out bearing collar. All this to say that it matters which Transmission Type you are starting the swap with - as well as what you are swapping in. The 280Z Pressure Plate, while providing higher clamping force, is actually thinner - and therefore the throw-out bearing collar is longer that the original 240-Z throw-out bearing collar in the Type A trannys. Shorter/Longer than what? There are at least four common different lengths of throw-out bearing collars that you can run into, plus a couple more that are uncommon but were used in some cars. Collar length isn't the only consideration - the placement of the "ears" on the collar matter as well as that is where the clutch fork meets the collar. The clutch forks from the Type A and Type B tranny are a different over-all length. So you can't just fill the hole in a Type A Fork - and use it with a self adjusting slave cylinder. To make matters worse - if you order a Pressure Plate for a 240-Z today - you will most likely get the 280Z Pressure Plate anyway, because they haven't supplied the original height Pressure Plates for the 240-Z's years.. Believe it or not, a 12/69 production car that I have, still has it's original clutch and pressure plate installed. If you are using after-market parts it gets even more complex because the height of the Pressure Plate Fingers can vary quite a bit among them. Most of them list the same part number for all L24/L28's... and a few still list different part numbers for the L24, L26 and L28 (but out of the box they might still all be the same). The general advice that say's use all the components from your 240, or all the components from the 280/280ZX is the safest thing to do - if you are swapping a type "B" 4 speed for a Type "B" 5 speed. If you have a Type "A" 4 speed at present, and you are installing a Type "B" 5 speed.. use all the components from the Type B 5 speed. KEEP ALL THE PARTS FROM EACH TRANNY AT DIFFERENT ENDS OF THE GARAGE - AND MARK THEM AS THEY COME OUT - magic marker of masking tape - BUT DON'T LOSE TRACK OF EXACTLY WHAT IS WHICH! Then if you must - change the clutch out - compare the new parts you get with the original parts that worked... Lay the Pressure Plates on a flat surface and carefully measure the distance from the surface to the Pressure Plate fingers... make sure the new and old are the same height. If they are not, you will have to exchange the new pressure plate... or find the correct throw-out bearing collar to match that new Pressure Plate. See: <a href=http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html TARGET=NEW>http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html</a> I repeat: EEP ALL THE PARTS FROM EACH TRANNY AT DIFFERENT ENDS OF THE GARAGE - AND MARK THEM AS THEY COME OUT - magic marker of masking tape - BUT DON'T LOSE TRACK OF EXACTLY WHAT IS WHICH! If you keep track of everything carefully - you have some hope of correcting any small problems that come up - but you have to have FACTS carefully recorded. good luck, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Guys: As I recall - back in the early 70's - the code stood alone, was required to be only on one side of the tire by FMVSS. K7001 = MYYDD = Month - Year - Day K = Month code: 9th Month A B C D E F H J K L M N ("G", "I", "O", "Q", "R", "S", "Z" are not used) 70 = Year 01 = First Day The original tire spec. for the North American Market was an 175SR14, but because Bridgestone could not supply enough tires to meet the demand from the US market, they started shipping cars with 175HR14's and Toyo Became an additional supplier. For the Series II cars the 175HR14 became the standard tire spec. from both Bridgestone and Toyo. Although the bis-ply tires were listed, and infation pressures given - they were never approved for use in the US by FMVSS. As I recall, the "J" spec. 4.5" and 5" steel rims were FMVSS certified for use with Radial Tires, for the USA. Bridgestone Super Speed Radial 20 175SR14 10/69 to about 08/70 Bridgestone 175HR14 RADIAL RD-150 08/70 to 06/72 TOYO 175HR14 RADIAL Z-1 10/70 to 07/73 The above dates - are based on the original tires on our IZCC Original Owners Cars - or the Original Spare in our IZCC Original Owners Cars. So far it is the best data we have. (reports from about 100 of our 150 original owners). I'm sure it is NOT PERFECT... per dates...but thoes are the three standard OEM tires. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Always good to call ahead - but I wouldn't believe anything that Dealer said; he would have been lucky to get $8K out of it. On the other hand, we all know that there's a sucker born every minute.. later, Carl B.

Hi Chris: This is the same car you looked at last year, I believe. This is the report to my friend with a few more pictures. <a href=http://zhome.com/TonyAvarello/Tony.htm TARGET=NEW>http://zhome.com/TonyAvarello/Tony.htm</a> FWIW, Carl B.

Oops.. sorry Alan - you said the first one was for the L24/L26... same part number as the Datsun Competition Parts Catalogs list.. I guess when you said that the second one was the larger one standard on the "432-R", my mind went back to thinking of the first one being standard for the 432. My mistake. I've edited my Post at #83 to correct and avoid farther confusion. Any explaination for the use of the cartridge type filter set-up? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: I went to look at that car a few months ago for a friend - forget it. It's not a "stand-up" car. Would at best be a $7,500.00 piece. In my personal opinion, the dealer knows better, but has grossly overstated the condition of the car and the mileage. When I ask him "what documentation of the actual mileage do you have"... his response was "that's what is on the title"... Hello - I live here in Florida and I know how that works... da... This statement is the real joke however, "This beautiful and unmolested 240 is absolutely beyond comparison and will impress the pickiest of collectors" I ask the dealer to step outside and look the "driver" that I drove down from Clearwater to look at his car - then tell me which is better. His response was "well I'm not asking $25K for mine either"... True, but the car would/should sell for something closer to $7,500.00 It is a real shame that so many people will waste their time going to look at this car... thinking that they well actually see an original 33K mile example.. unmolested... only to find another pig with lipstick. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Guys: Here is a little additional data, for the owners of Series I Datsun 240-Z's in North American Market Spec.... but might also apply to the HS30's in Australia/NZ and other places. Technical Service Bulletin TS70-47 New Key System and Key Numbers: see attached: FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL http://ZHome.com

Given the different orientations of the oil filters shown on various oil cooler set-up's, I think the subject deserves some farther discussion. For the purposes of this discussion - let's refer to the "Top" of the oil filer as being the area where the oil flows in/out, and "up" will refer to the Top of the filter pointing up toward the sky, whereas "down" will refer to the Top of the filer pointing toward the ground. First - the picture of the 432-R system that Alan presents shows the filter can pointed up (if you will) and secondarily it looks like an "element" or "cartridge" type - rather than the more usual "spin-on" type. (more typical of the early 60's than the later 60's early 70's - but could be because far higher oil pressures were anticipated???) The picture that Alan presents of the Factory literature, for the L24/L26 also shows the top of the spin-on filter pointed up. The pictures of the filters in the rally cars show the filters mounted top-side down (so to speak)... that is to say with the inlet/outlet on the bottom, pointed toward the ground. Most all factory installations orient the filter horizontally or up, so that it remains at least partially or completely full of oil - because that is the source from which the cam and main bearings are first supplied upon start-up. A lot of the spin-on type full flow filters are also equipped with an anti-drain back valve to prevent them from emptying while the engine is shut off, and thus allowing "dry starts" where oil to the cam and main bearings is delayed while the pump refills the filter. However in most test cases, these anti-drain back valves are not completely dependable. This is one reason to use Nissan OEM filters.. they are higher quality than most common and far less expensive, after-market types. Dry-starts may not matter as much on a race engine, given it's short life expectancy (ie. a race or two), and/or it's infrequent number of starts, before complete overhauls... However on a car driven on the street, where lots and lots of starts, restarts are the norm, over a period of years - the most prudent path would be to mount your spin-on filter with the top of the filter pointing up, so that the filter remains full of oil at all times, and prevents drain-back through the pump when the engine is shut off. Likewise if your using one of the after-market remote mounts for the filter or filters. these have the added advantage of allowing the filters to be mounted pointing up - while at the same time making it easy to access them for change. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hello Dogma420: If you want the lock for the fuel flap door - you'll need the fuel flap door from a Series I North American model as well - Your 72 should have a finger pull - that sticks out from the body - whereas the Series 1 North American Spec. cars - and it looks like the Aussi spec. cars have a flat fuel flap door - that is pulled open by the key in the lock. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

HI Guys: From Nissan Service Bulletin: Feb. 1971, Vol. 137 Introduction Of Datsun 240Z Sports Model, S30 Series (1971 Late Models) or what we call the Series II cars. Page 3: *Improved Convenience: 8. A new pocket added to the sun visor affords increased convenience of the driver by providing stowage for highway tickets 9.Two-step door link offers another work feature - the driver need not stretch much out of his seat to close the door in tight quarters or narrow spaces. 10.New pull button type seat belt connection requires adjustment only at the buckle. 11.New, reversible key is especially useful when operating the door lock in the dark or at night. On cars for U.S.A. and Canada, the reversible key is also used for both the ignition, steering lock and door locks. = = = = = = = end quote == = = = FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Mike: In general terms.... a good solid (meaning as rust free as you will find) Series I 240-Z, STOCK with all parts present and correct , body straight, not recently repainted, not bondo'ed, good dash and all interior parts in good shape - and one that can be driven and drives out well - etc.... is a $6,500.00 to $7,500.00 car. When you say "needs resto"... that's somewhat different than above... That means to me, that the car needs to be repainted now!, or rebuilt before it would be "presentable" at the local Z Car Club meeting... it means the dash is shot, it needs door panels, paint, re-chrome everything, rebuild brakes, new tires etc etc etc.... In that case it's a $3,500.00 to $4,500.00 example. But depending on it's location - say East of the Mississippi - it might still be a $5,500.00 example to the right buyer. With the above as a baseline - what's a "low vin" worth? Lets say that we are here talking about 1969 production dated cars only ..... This gets very tricky to explain... as it is all but impossible to separate the value of "condition" completely from the value of "low VIN". At present - any restorable example (not one ready to send to the crusher - not one that is "salvageable"...) of a 69 production dated car has a base value of $3,500.00 and that might be a couple grand higher depending on the completeness of all the original parts on the car... or where it is located. As the value of the "condition" of the car goes UP... the percentage of the additional value of the low VIN goes down.. when you are talking about VIN's between 800 - and 100. So if Car #156 has a "condition" value of $6,500.00 then the low VIN would be worth an extra one to two grand. If Car #156 had a "condition" value of $3,500.00 you might have to add two to three grand for the VIN. VIN's below HLS30 0200 - add between $1,500.00 and $2,500.00 (there are 47 of them that we know of...not counting the race cars #6, 7 & 8). VIN's below HLS30 0100 - aka double digit VIN's.... add between $3,500.00 and $4,500.00 (there are 28 of them that we know of not counting the race cars #6, 7 & 8). VIN's below HLS30 0050... add between $4,500.00 and $5,500.00 (there are 17 of them etc) VIN's below HLS30 0032.... add between $5,500.00 and $8,500.00 (there are only 10 of them etc.) VIN's below HLS30 0017.... add whatever it takes - there is only ONE. (unless we ever do find #13,14 or 15). There is also a value - other than money - ***ociated with the 69 production cars. That is the fact that they are easier to resell...than like condition later cars. They also have a value ***ociated with the history of the design, bragging rights or the amount of interest they generate... Call it a "fun factor"... So as I understand your description of #156... it looks like $4,500.00 plus $3,500.00 = $8K, if you can find the right buyer.. priced for a quick sale... $6,500.00 All the above is just a general guideline.... nothing is absolute in that market.... FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA

Looks like it sold for $12,500.00. If it is actually as nice as the pictures would lead you to believe - the buyer got a bargin. If I had seen it - I might have been in there bidding. One of the pictures showing the area behind the seat - also shows a vinyl mat!! That car "might" have had the vinyl mats from the Factory - but I see the rear deck now has carpet... but maybe the owner put that in.... maybe he has the original vinyl mats!! FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Victor: If you remember that far back - then you must be about as old as me.... in which case I won't take those dates as absolute... but rather "as you recall - plus or minus 5 years". ;-) A friend of mine, Ron Johnson had worked for Nissan in L.A. almost from the beginning of the Datsun Competition Department. He assures me that the first "Datsun Competition Catalog" was issued 1 May, 1971. (as Posted at #35 above). So if the salesman were handing out anything then, it must have been something other than the Datsun Competition Parts Catalog... Could it have been Competition Department Bulletins or something prepared by the Dealership? d*** Roberts was hired by Mr. K in 1967, entering Nissan Motors as a Service Manger, but he quickly set up the Datsun Competition Department at the beginning of 68. Prior to the "Catalog" the competition department did put out "Competition Department Bulletins".... but the earliest I have are from 1969. From the "Datsun News" 1973... ........To make it easy to race Datsuns, Roberts developed two unique services to provide the latest mechanical information and performance parts at reasonable costs. d*** Roberts wrote: "Anyone who wanted to race a Datsun could and still can - call us for advice. Back then I answered the phones, but now we have staff of six knowledgeable people who give the advice. We average 100 calls a day." Roberts also works closely with the best Datsun racers looking for any new parts that improve performance. When one is found, Roberts has it built in quantity by one of more than 200 suppliers. d*** Roberts wrote: "We offer the parts to anyone for as close to cost as we can. We're not here to make money off racers. Real racing parts aren't always marked up. Quite often they're sold at Cost." Even with little or no market up - the Datsun Competition Department sells more than $4.5 million in racing parts each year. ...end Datsun News quote...... Anyway - the Datsun Competition Department Bulletin that I do have from 69.. lists Part #21300-25510 at $94.40, for the 1500, 1600 and 2000 roadster. This looks to me like a kit produced locally by one of his suppliers, but only because of the "cold weather cover". It may be a combination of some Factory Parts and some aftermarket parts combined in an easy to install "kit". A later "Competition Parts Price List" that I have lists 21300-12210 at $113.02 for the same cars. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Stephen: Would that be from the Red Covered 1973 edition or the Blue Covered 1974 edition? Just curious. The Datsun Competition Dept. simply put out "Competition Department Bulletins" (8.5x11 individual sheets) and price lists at first. According to Ron Johnson their first "Competition Parts Catalog", was issued as a Competition Department Bulletin (no pictures/42 pages) May 1, 1971. I don't recall them having pictures of the parts before the 73 edition. Anyone have a 72 edition?... FWIW, Carl

Hello moonpup / montoya_fan01 & NY-Z: Actually, I believe that the problem with the drawing submitted by Alan is not so much that the engine illustrated is confusing - as the fact that the drawing is clearly dated..."From August 73". I too referenced the Datsun Competition Parts Catalog of 1973. Since NY-Z stated that he has a 1972 240-Z.... and I believe it how has an engine built in 70.... montoya_fan01's statements; all subsequent tangents, subversions and debate tactics aside, holds quite true. "No such animal as a "factory" oil cooler on an L24 imported to the USA by Nissan". Further - note montoya's statement specifically contained the phrase; "....ON AN L24 Imported to the USA by Nissan". This is quite specifically true, because Nissan never certified an L24 with an oil cooler installed (ie "on") as meeting the the strict US Emissions Standards of the period. Further, any Authorized Datsun Dealer that offered the oil cooler kit as a Dealer Installed "option", would have been subject to heavy fines, a possible jail term, and certainly loss of his license to sell automobiles. Alan pointed out the fact that, at least in theory, U.S. Citizens, could have purchased a US Spec. Datsun 240-Z in Japan, and since I was in Japan in 73 (92nd Bomb Wing, SAC, USAF) - I can tell you that was the case. However, if one purchased a 240-Z, in Japan at that time, with the intention of bringing it back to the States (ie. personal automotive import)... It would have had to have been certified by Nissan Motors Ltd. as meeting all US Safety and Emissions Standards as of the date of its manufacture; or the owner would have had to put the car in a "compliance configuration" before Customs would allow it into the Country. Was it "possible" to smuggle a non-US Spec. Z into America?.... How many Z's can you put in C5 engine containers, and how many engine containers can a C5 hold? (don't think it didn't happen). But then why bother? Since about 97% of the 240-Z's of any configuration were sold in the North American Market - it was far easier to buy a 240-Z in California, than it was to get one in Japan. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com