Carl Beck

Hi Blue: +1 on visiting the GarageJournal.com site - spend a few hours there and you'll pick up a lot of very creative ideas. Also +1 on having a polished concrete floor. Many of the major Discount Stores and Grocery Stores around here are using this now - as well as some of the Drug Stores. I was going to recommend a Race Deck floor - I love mine - but I'm not sure how that would work with a heated floor. At any rate do something with the floor before you get much stuff in there.. On the vinyl chip floors - the most expensive, very best of them are excellent. I hear lots of problems with the less expensive, thinner vinyl chip layers etc types. Do a lot of research on that subject. Enjoy the process... Carl B.

From memory - there are 10mm and 12mm ring gear bolts. Depends on the year of manufacture. Or was that just with the R200? Secondy - I believe that the rear ends with the large "K" cast in - were built with 4 spyder gears. I think that was the difference between the regular production units and the Nissan Comp. units. The Comp units having 4 spyder gears in an open diff. It will be interesting to see what is inside that new unit.. FWIW, Carl B.

Neat Tool - is there a thin rod - that can be attached - to push down in thinner area's or holes - to measure their depth? Carl B.

Off Topic - but - you too? I'm being forced to move on as well. I hate this!! My 8 year old Mac Pro runs perfectly fine - and does everything I need. But too many applications are "no longer supported" - - - It is kind of like getting "NLA" from Nissan... bummer..

Hi Dale: When the VIN's were gathered - all were reported as running. Going back to that 89xx or 93xx - - in that series I have the following A/T's. 8944, 8947,8958, 9033, 9062, 9090, 9097, 9290, 9310, 9582, 9591, 9603 All A/T's - no VIN's reported in that series as 4 spd.'s so far. First 4 Spd reported past that series of A/T's - 9753. Then the A/T's start again: 12427, 12441, 12500, - - 12658, - - 12746, 12765 - but mixed into this series there appears to be several 4 spd. cars marked with - - in the series. In the 17xxx range - only a few 17574, - - 17595, - - 17631, 17636 Hi GeoJoe: Thanks - it has always been interesting to me to see how VIN's and Engines lined up with Dates of Manufacture - then how/when the A/T's started. Didn't mean to hijack the thread. It "seems" that the first batch of A/T's were in that 89xx - to 96xx range all ran at the same time. Then smaller batches of A/T's were run in the 12xxx range, followed by some more in the 14xxx range. By then they seemed to be mixing production between the 4spd. and A/T cars. So far no A/T's in the Series I cars past 17636 have been noted.. FWIW, Carl B.

But really - get serious - $21K?? Carl B.

Agreed..I'm amazed that there seems to be no reserve - very clean, very low mileage, very stock and original 2 owner Z... If you want a 240Z this is the type of car buy. I wouldn't be surprised to see it go for around $14K. As clean and well cared for as this Z is - it would be a pleasure to do a Concours Restoration on. Most likey the least expensive to do in the end. FWIW, Carl B.

Just FYI HLS30 14799, 14821, 14906, 14959 & 15189 - are all A/T's. Keith - lowest VIN I have recorded with an A/T is HLS30- 07969 FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Randy: E-Mail sent.. thanks, Carl

Hi Jim: Price of that "kit"? Also more is shown in the picture than just the "kit" - yes/no? thanks, Carl

In Seattle it should sell for $5K to $6.5K. Compete repaint made worse by everything blacked out under the hood. Missing all emblems, wrong color seats. "Put it in the air and notice the immaculately clean undercarriage that was frame off restored before storage" - - -yea.. I'd like to see that! Most likely sprayed with undercoat to hid the rust.. If you want a nice 240Z - keep looking, this one is FAR from "mint". FWIW, Carl B.

I believe he had to stop - and give up the project. I could be wrong, but remember reading something from him to that effect.. Anyone know for sure? Carl B.

Hi jmorrison146: If I had that 240Z - I'd keep it stock. In simple terms, it will cost you less to keep it that way - and it will be easier to resell, as well as return a higher amount - if you ever have to sell it. You never know what will happen next week - let alone next year. All of us have seen fellow enthusiasts fall on hard times - and have to "give away" their Z's. When things start to go bad in life - the first thing to GO when you need to raise funds quickly - is a Classic / Sports Car you don't need. So if you must sell it quickly and need the most money back out of it- keep it stock. I have a nearly "stock" 72. I use it mostly for road trips and pleasure drives - I did add a 5spd. to keep the noise in the cabin down at highway speeds {70 to 85mph}. I also added a front BRE style Spook..I also have mag's..{but kept the original steel wheels and hub caps} All in all it is a pure pleasue to drive.. and fun to enjoy at local Cars&Coffee mets etc. About Production Numbers: The whole idea that 240Z's will never be worth anything because they made too many - is in my opinion simply silly. While Nissan may have produced 160,000 240Z's in four years of production. Ford sold 190,727 Mustangs in 1970 alone. Chevy sold 124,901 Camaros in 1970 alone. For 1967 Ford sold 472,121 Mustangs. Still think a lot of 240Z's were produced? Still see many of any of those cars still running around? In four years 1964 though 1967 Pontiac produced 286,470 GTO's... does anyone say that they made far to many of them to ever with worth anything? With the recent rise in collector interest in all Japanese cars - I believe the Datsun 240Z's are just starting to come into their own in the Collector Market. Good solid stock/original cars will gain value over the next few years. If you can afford it and want to Mod's a Z - buy one that already has had $5K to $10K spent on it - you'll be able to buy them for less than half what the owner put into them. {that should tell you something as well}. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed - the VIN says Series I - build date should be 10/70. Series I VIN's run up through 20xxx. If the front of the car {engine compartment} and the floorboard did have #113 as the original paint - then someone grafted the front of a newer car to the rear of another. Does the car have a rebuilt title? Can you read the VIN stamped into the Firewall? Is the original data tag on the drivers door jam?

Great - Thanks Sean, I appreciate that. Carl

Good - 260Z manuals are pretty rare, since they only made them for a year.. Good luck with the project.. Carl

There is one well used on EBay for $50.00 plus S&H Seems to be missing its original cover - and is in a binder... Carl B.

You wouldn't happen to recall what the width of the seat tracks, on the Honda seat - would you? That is, the outside of the Left track to the outside of the Right track. thanks, Carl B.

Nice - I haven't seen too many of them here. I did like the size/styling of the last MKZ's. Do you know how much the car weighs? Carl B.

Hi Jerry: I don't think I've ever bought one... That might be a pretty rare part to find in NOS condition. But - I'll keep an eye out for you... Carl

Bart: Agreed - the seats look odd. But you could reupholster them, and get the proper door panels. You could put the "snaps" on that new carpet set as well. Nothing that $1500.00 wouldn't correct. I'd go with a FULL Dash Cap as well... never liked the half caps.. I don't like seeing the strut mounting studs/nuts painted.. It is just so easy to remove the nuts and mask of the studs. The paint under the hood seems too dull as well. Then too you might as well take the tie-downs/tow hooks off and return them to black. That Blue fan would have to go - replaced with a newer plastic one.. just to be safe. The Tail Lights look great - but you'd have to refinish the tail light finisher... All picky cosmetic stuff - but added all together it will hurt the value somewhat.. FWIW, Carl B.

Chris - now you'll have a reason to visit ZMeca more often. My advice was to take a large truck and long enclosed trailer. You don't want to leave anything behind. The rotisserie came with the car as I recall, when it was first advertised the car was still on it - you'll for sure want that as well. Get every nut, bolt, screw - believe me, they will all become important... FWIW, Carl B.

It would only have "rebuilt" status if the car / title were totalled and marked SALVAGE. Otherwise - it would have 'recent restoration" done... Carl B.

Looks like Chris Karl from the ZCCA bought it - Chris lives in Cleveland, OH as I recall. That was such a screaming DEAL, I was amazed that it took so long for someone to grab it. FWIW, Carl B.

I have a Blue 72 and I have both BRE Front & Rear spoilers on it. Rock solid at speed.. Built L28/triples/cam/headwork etc. I tend to drive it faster than I should - for some reason. Freeway runs between Clearwater and Atlanta nights - typically made at 100 mph.{just to keep the trucks from running over me}. On that Z I like having the pair. I also have a White 72 - mostly bone stock - I find myself driving it at a much more relaxed pace. Typically 70-80 mph on the Freeways. I have only the Front BRE Spook and the car is very solid on the road. So from my personal experience - I'd say you would be perfectly happy with only the front Spook. FWIW, Carl B.