Carl Beck

Yes, the subject can get complex. That is why I qualified it by saying - listed on the window sticker, should have said Monroney Window Sticker - just to rule out Dealer Added "Supplemental Stickers", But to your point - After the fact, when the Monroney Sticker was long lost, an owner had options himself. As you mention he could have had an After-market system like the ARA's put in - or he could have ordered one of the Nissan Supplied A/C Kits for the 280Z's. For that matter the Dealer could have installed the Nissan Kit at the Dealership before selling the car {but in that case it wouldn't have shown up on the Monroney Sticker as an extra cost option} It's been a long time - but as I recall the A/C that was actually installed at the factory had a 5spd. fan switch and the Nissan Supplied A/C Kit {27000-N4225 etc} either Port or Dealer Installed came with a 4spd. fan switch. So you could tell at a later point if the A/C was factory installed or changed in later. Either way the A/C units from Nissan for the 280Z were a big improvement over the earlier after-market units. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Andrew: Yes, the Arm Rest among several other items are shown in the 1972 Accessories brochure for the 240Z. Most of these items had Part Number that began with 99990. 240Z Accessories FWIW, Carl B.

Hi bacarl: I wish you the best of luck in your search. Lots of advice here on the forum about what to look for ect. Of course it depends on what you want - A car that is ready to drive and enjoy, a Project Car that needs refreshing or restoring, A Classic Z for show or one to Race. The Body Protective Side Moldings were usually Dealer installed prior to the original sale of the Datsun 240Z's. Some owners over the years have deleted them when the car was refinished. It is for the Hazard Warning Lights Switch - the switch was required, by our Safety Standards to be marked for the 1972 Model Year. The Hazard Warning Switch was a different design and Lighted on the 73 240Z's - so no decal on the side of them either. See: Details About 240Z Dashboards Not really. The transmissions were "improved" with the 1972 model year. The shift linkage gave a more positive feel in the newer Type B transmissions that the older Type A trany with the "monkey motion shift linkage. There were other improvements as well - but the old type "A" were pretty much trouble free for 100K miles if not abused. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jamul: The response from La Jolla - is a great example of why we should enter our Z's and other Japanese cars of Special Interest in higher end Events like this. Yes, you might be there alone the first couple of years, but as the number of Japanese entries grows - the Organizers of these events take notice and reach out to the community by opening new classes. Past that we have to work with the orginazers - to properly sub-divide the Japanese Class as the number of different models show up. Modern Sedans, Sports Cars, Competition Cars, Micro's vs. Pre WW-II ect. Then way down the road - - shouldn't a Datsun 240Z be in the same class as Porsche 911's, Corvettes, E-Types, and all other Classic/Collectiable Sports Cars of the 70's. So all cars are classed by Type rather than country of origin? Ah.. nothing is ever perfect.. The idea is to support, participate and enjoy the Event. FWIW, Carl B.

I think you are pretty much correct. If "factory option" means a Nissan Part that was not standard equipment on every 280Z produced, yet available on select cars from the factory. In that sense, factory options on the 280Z like 5sd., A/T, A/C or Black Pearl Paint & SAP which were listed as extra cost options on the window stickers. Even if a Nissan supplied part was used in the case of the subject 280Z - it would have been installed either at the Port or Dealership. Unlike the normal factory installed options mentioned above. Several optional parts are shown in the Datsun/Nissan Parts Catalogs, but here in the US, if they weren't installed at the Port, you or the Dealer had to order them from Nissan Parts Dept. and have them installed here. The usual things we see are Nissan Headlight Covers, Optional Springs {aka Euro Spec}, Racing Stripes and Vinyl mats for the rear deck area. Then there were a lot of Nissan supplied parts offered in the various Datsun/Nissan Competition Parts Catalogs as well. FWIW, Carl B.

Polished Stainless Steel is very nice - but not "original". So if "original" matters and the price doesn't go too high - this one looks like it could be a very good deal. I've seen Front bumpers that needed to be re-chromed, but were otherwise straight and free of dents sell for $350.00 or more in the past. It cost about $375.00 to have one re-chromed around here.. I haven't tried to order a New bumper from Nissan lately - it seems the last time I checked they were NLA for the 70-72 cars. FWIW, Carl B.

Since it has been repainted - it won't bring anything close to $23K at this point. At $15K it would be a bargain and $18K it would be a reasonable buy. You would of course have to get under it and check the usual places.. Looks like a very nice 240Z.. FWIW, Carl B.

Great Going Rich!! Good for you!! Actually good for all of us too. Carl B.

Just like Life - some junk there - and some real good items. All depends on your specific needs. Since their "return" policy is pretty good - never hurts to try something. FWIW, Carl B.

I'm fairly sure I have both the Foot Rest and Scuff Plates NOS..but I'd have to dig though a lot of stuff stored away to find them. If you are going for the AMCO Collection - What you really need - is the AMCO Roof Rack.. I have an NOS example and I know where that is. {$375.00 plus shipping}. If I find the other parts I'll let you know.. FWIW, Carl B.

Still Waiting on Pictures...

Watched the entire series - great show... FWIW, Carl B.

Brand New as in New Old Stock? $900.00 USD would have been 1/2 price. Or where they almost like new? $900.00 in that case would still have been below the normal market. As the economy recovers they will most likely go up in price.

Posting the following for my friends at the Automobile Driving Museum If you are in the area this should be fun. Carl B. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = WHAT: "Z EVENT" - Z Car Cruise-In, El Sequndo, CA WHERE: Automobile Driving Museum 610 Laiport St. El Segundo, CA 90245 WHEN: Friday March 29, 2013 From 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM All Z's are welcome at the Cruise In, and we will have special parking for registrants. REGISTER HERE: https://events.r20.constantcontact.com/register/eventReg?llr=raq4tmkab&oeidk=a07e77va7q4a24756b7&oseq= The event is free but people need to register. Yes, food will be available. If you love your Z - then - Join the Automobile Driving Museum, MotoMan TV, Hot Rod Magazine and Car Craft Magazine in welcoming Randy Rodriguez at our March Cruise-In. Randy, a lifelong Z car fan, is the designer of the current Nissan 370 Z. Based in Nissan Design America's studio in San Diego, California, Randy's designs have evolved long past his Z car passion - his sketches have gone on to become the Infiniti Etherea, Nissan Esflow and the Infiniti Emerg-E After the program, Randy will be holding a Q & A session. All Z's are welcome at the Cruise and we will have special parking for registrants.

Hi Steve: They look pretty nice - a few questions: Is the mount attached by just sheet metal screws - or are they nuts/bolts? Do they use the original mounting holes in the Driver Door? Or do you have to drill additional holes? Let us know how much wind noise they add or don't add - windows up and windows down. thanks, Carl B.

In California - $11K is a very strong bid. Given the condition of the paint/body that the seller describes - I don't see $15K. FWIW, Carl B.

Looking at your Picture - If the width of the New and Old U-Joint bodies are the same {without the cups on each end} - - it would seem that you would have to completely smash the rubber seal on the new cap - to get the circle clip groves to match up in the yoke... Maybe I am not understanding what your measuring... FWIW, Carl B.

No - that is not normal. The Fresh Air Vents in the Dash should not have air coming though them, when the selector lever is moved to "HEAT". They should have fresh air coming in only when "VENT" is selected. Fresh air comes in though the cowl - and there is a "flap" or "door" that opens/closes to control the fresh air flow. If you have cold air coming in - something is not allowing that door to close when it should - or the seals on that door are shot, or the cable that controls it may not be adjusted correctly. It may be time to remove the Blower Assy - clean and reseal the air flow control flaps/doors. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Charlie: You'll have to post some pictures of the car when you get it... Always kind of sad to see an original owner have to let go of his/her 240Z, but it sounds like you picked up a nice one. FWIW, Carl B.

My daughter is home from college for spring break - so we watched it last night. Enjoyed the movie.. fun, light entertainment.. thanks, Carl B.

Hi Jon: Weren't Ring & Pinion sets sold in matched set's, which you didn't get if you ordered the parts individually? I recall running into that problem at one time... FWIW, Carl B.

A Daily Driver? A well cared for USED 370Z. You can pick one up with less than 25K miles for around $24K or less. You don't have to crawl into it - it has useful cargo area - is fast enough and reliable enough. Want a Convertible? - 2010 370Z Touring - 17K miles asking $26K.. You could most likely buy it for $23K .. Put another $23K in GOLD and five years from now you'll be happy with both purchases. 2010 Nissan 370Z for sale in Miami, Florida >> 38797704 | GetAuto.com Hard to beat for a DD.. FWIW, Carl B.

Around here - a good used R180 3.36 will be $175.00 - if it's been cleaned up, with new rear cover seal, and you can easily remove the drain and fill plugs - $225.00 would not be out of the question. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - that is true. They are a wood fiber and epoxy composition. They can be stripped, sanded and re-stained/re-finished. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Sean: Cutting 1 1/2 to 2 coils off the Euro Spec.'s will slightly increase their spring rate, but that is not a problem. Just use a hacksaw - not a torch as you don't want to heat them. Reviewing Arne's E-Mail report from Feb 10, 2007, he reported cutting 1 1/2 coils off the front and 1 1/4 off the rear - to get the car back close to original ride height. Even then it was still sitting 1/8" higher in front and 1/4" higher in the rear. He was going to drive it that way to see if things settled down a bit more ... That pretty much matched the experience my son and I had when we put them on my son's Z. FWIW, Carl B.