Carl Beck

WOW!! $114.00... I need to update my inventory list of NOS parts... I had them listed at $25.00. I guess if a 40 year old used one is worth $49.00... FWIW, Carl B.

I use a Snap-On "wabble extension" with a short socket. I also clean & check the threads on the bolts when I have them out, then shoot a little Kroil on them. That allows me to screw them in with my fingers farther to start with. FWIW, Carl B.

Those are the pictures I took of the OEM chin spoiler that I had - I sold it to Burton Brown for use on a Bonniville Speed run. While somewhat flexible that one was molded fairly straight across like the lower finisher panels of the 240Z's. I think the spoiler that the OP Posted is for a late 260Z or 280Z body - mostly because the lower finishers on those bodies were rounded down, for the larger radiators used. I doubt it would fit a 70-73 240Z or early 74 260Z. May have just been tagged incorrectly in the dealers inventory.. I have a BRE spoiler for the 280Z's that looks a lot like the one the originally ask about. The BRE unit is fibergalss, but has the same more round line to fit the lower finisher panels on the 280Z. Although the BRE unit extends down toward the ground farther. FWIW, Carl B.

I'm not sure what an "ashtray/fusebox cover" is. or what is meant by that. So just to be clear...The Series I cars have an ashtray and a cover on the top of the fusebox. Both in good condition are getting hard to come by. FWIW, Carl B.

A Good Deal Always Gets Better. A Bad Deal Always Gets Worse. Looks like you got a very good deal. A/C with the rotary compressor.. clean looking engine bay.. FWIW, Carl B.

Maybe because the 350/370 Z Car people really own a shortened Infiniti. FWIW, Carl B.

My 11/71 has webbing under the seats - I'm the original owner. I also did not get self retracting seat belts, nor a red seat belt warning light on the cover over the fuse box, nor waring buzzer. Also have vertical rear window defroster lines. The newer cars 12/71 or some time after had springs in the seats so the seat belt warning light and buzzer sensor could be installed. They also got self-retracting seat belts, horizontal rear window defroster lines. Some very early 72 Model Year Z's 09/72, came though without any "indentation" in the floor boards for the self-retracting seat belts as well. So there seems to have been a change over period of several months to add the things required by the 72 Safety Standards.. FWIW, Carl B.

NO - NO - NO!! If they aren't original to the DATSUN 240Z - they wouldn't be any good for restorations. You might as well send the old set out to be Chromed. If there is a large enough market - might be possible to stamp them both ways.. Is there a market? FWIW, Carl B.

The Black Pearl came with hub caps - it would only have the optional mag wheels, if they were one of the extra cost options put on the car. FWIW, Carl B.

The last Datsun 240Z's were built in 08/73. Datsun 260Z's started production in 08/73, by 11/73 or 12/73 you would be looking at a 260Z. Yes the early 260Z's had big rubber blocks on the front bumper. Of course you never know what any previous owner may have done.. FWIW, Carl B.

Had to go check my Owners Manuals - you are correct for 1972 - 87 is for Reseach and Motor average. It was 91 RON in other countries. The "original" Owners Manuals {69/70} did call for 91 Octane - but back then it was only Research Octane Number.. FWIW, Carl B. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't recall seeing it.. Every 73 240Z I've seen so far has the same front bumper mounts. There was a difference between the "early" and "late" 74 260Z front bumpers. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed - with that extensive a job - pull the windshield and rear deck lid glass. No matter how it is masked off - it will leave a build up line of paint around the seals - and that will greatly distract from the quality of the finished job. Pay a few bucks extra if you have too - it will be worth it.. FWIW, Carl B.

I had a set of the vinyl trim plates made from Stainless Steel about 20 years ago. They are still in my White 72... not OEM, but attractive and if one didn't know better they look factory. If you take a set to almost any Sheet Metal Shop - they can easily duplicate them.. then just drill the proper holes, by sitting the old one on top of the new one's. With todays DNC/CNC machine tools - I don't think it would be super expensive to make a die to stamp thin aluminum. If not here in the US - then China.. FWIW, Carl B.

I've always ran at least 91 octane - but then I've always ran more initial advance in the timing. As I recall the original owners manual called for high test.. Nonetheless if your set up to run 87.. and you are not getting ping - run the cheap stuff. FWIW, Carl B.

Had to make myself haul them off to the scrap - did a refresh on the garage {to please "She who must be obeyed"}. Couldn't find anyone around here to sell them too - so two complete L28's went to the scrap metal yard. Also took about four L24's there as well. Of course after I got rid of them - I found several people that wanted them.. FWIW, Carl B.

Is it Cad or Zinc? It seems that some were Cad Plated and some were Zinc. It's been argued about for years. I can only tell you the nuts,bolts,washers and other small parts I took to our Materials Lab were Cad Plated. {when I say "our", I mean Honeywell Space Systems}. They have several ways of identifying the specific compounds of any materials, and thus specify the proper handling and disposal procedures for recycling. I'll take their word for it. Other people have had parts tested in one way or another - and were told it was Zinc. Cadmium was commonly used in the US and around the world in the post WW-II period for corrosion resistance, up until it was classified as a Hazardous Material by the EPA { a heavy metal}. Which in turn subjected the Cadmium and associated plating solutions to expensive control, containment and disposal fees, as well as to EPA harassment. Today other than a few Aerospace and Defense contractors or their suppliers - not many Plating companies will use Cadmium for anything. The Plating Shops that can use Cadmium, will charge about three times as much as Zinc plating, because of the additional costs of regulation. {which is not a problem for DOD or NASA}. Shops that can't or don't offer Cadmium plating - will tell you it is the same as Zinc. Indeed the finished product can look almost identical. Also over the years the technology of electroplating has advanced and different compounds with Zinc can be almost as good as Cadmium in terms of corrosion resistance, but it takes very sophisticated plating control processes - and again it is more expensive. Cadmium is about three times more durable in corrosion resistance than Zinc plating of the same thickness. Parts plated with either Cadmium or Zinc come out a dull sliver in color. The Bright Yellow finish with blue/red highlights is the result of a Yellow Chromate dip. That is another sacrifice coating applied over the top of either Cadmium or Zinc. {kind of a surface sealer if you will} Given the appearance of nuts, bolts, washers found on now 40+ year old Z's - I'd have to believe that the guys in the Materials Lab were correct, and that most of the parts were originally Cad Plated. Zinc plated parts simply do not last that long. FWIW, Carl B.

The problem with the "verified sales" - is that cars are sent to auction when the owner isn't able to sell them locally - or when they are of NO interest to serious Collectors. It's matter of definition - but I have yet to see an excellent 240Z of any year sell for $12K. The real problem is that the "Collector Car Tracker" - doen't really track true Collector Cars. One might say it tracks "collectibles". Sad that it gives many uninformed people the false idea that they can find/buy a truly "excellent" #1/#2 Condition example for $12K. FWIW, Carl B.

I have the Bilstien shocks for the 240Z, that they sold in the 70's - on my Blue 72. As I recall I put them on in 74.. they are STILL the best shock I've ever had on a 240Z. Wish Bilstien would offer them again.. FWIW, Carl B.

I think you are correct - I had to go out the garage to look at them. They have less taper than I was thinking about - stamping the bell out of the mouth makes them look tappered.. they aren't. K&N also offeres something like them.. see: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread20972.html FWIW, Carl B.

Looks like the Stock Air Horn design on the air cleaner base - is very close to the same 5.2 vs 5.8. The only advantage I see is that you would have more room between the top of the horn and aftermarkt air cleaners. Dyno tests did show a loss of about 4 HP if the stock air cleaner base with air horms was removed.. You gain about 5 HP if the top of the air cleaner and air cleaner filter were removed. Interesting.. Carl B.

Hi Matt: Good for you!! The Story about why he bought it - - adds as much collector interest, as who the owner was! Do take some detailed pictures to show us when it arrives.. FWIW, Carl B.

Use HLS30 69776 or try HLS30-69776 Six Digit VIN's started in Aug of 72 with HLS30 100000 FWIW, Carl B.

In case it hasn't been mentioned: We need Heater Cores for the 240Z. A couple of us have looked everywhere here in the US - MSA seems to get one every once in a while, but they are ...$300.00 AIR. The supplier that used to supply them here for $69.00 - no longer makes them. The 260Z/280Z heater cores are larger and won't fit in the 240Z heater box. FWIW, Carl B.

What is the "white" stuff on the roof? Did you look under the car by chance? Also note 2.8L engine.. I wonder if the original engine is still available with the car... If it's solid underneath, if that is the origin paint it came with from the factory... might be worth $6K... But RUST is a big factor..and the car would have to be inspected carefully. FWIW, Carl B.