Carl Beck

800 lb corner weight? On a 240Z it is around 635 lbs per corner.. So the 240Z is "about" 2540 lbs.. and that would make the Chevette ... what? 3200 lbs... I was thinking that the Chevette was a pretty cheap and light weight car - yes/no? On a street driven 240Z - lowered - it would seen that 197 lbs. in. would yield a very stiff and harsh ride, even with properly matched shocks. {stiff and harsh being pretty subjective terms} Stock Springs on the 280Z are 103 lbs. in Front and 127 lbs. in. Rear FWIW, Carl B.

Great Post - yet another "project" to work on this winter.. I think I have a couple of used spares that might be repairable.. FWIW, Carl B.

Search on the Web - there are lots of guys in other States that will get you a title for just about anything. Easier to do in non-title States with older cars. They charge a fee of course.. but that may be a way to go.. FWIW, Carl B.

John - I recall something from years ago - wasn't the "K" casting used for R180's with 4 spyder gears? Or didn't the Nissan Comp. R180's come with 4 spyder gears. Or am I confusing that with something else.? ksbeta - Swapping in a different Ring & Pinion, then setting the differental up correctly - takes some experience and can require additional shims that you may not have on hand. I'd check with a local differential speciality shop - to see how much they would charge for the job - or if they will even take an old Nissan differential in to begin with. Otherwise - like John suggests - just buy a good factory unit or used factory unit.. FWIW, Carl B.

Now he needs to do a BRE Baja Z off road / rally bike..

There were Nissan OEM Headlight Covers, and then there were After-market headlight covers. They are different. The pictures that Blue Posted are of the Nissan OEM type, or reproductions of the Nissan OEM type. I haven't seen anyone Post pictures of the After-market type. Last time I looked the After-market type were still available. FWIW, Carl B.

In Your Picture titled "5 Wires". "A" - Connectors wrapped in Blue Tape on wiring harnesses - were not originally used in your car. However in some cases they can be used. The Black & Green Wires can be jumped together - with a jumper wire that includes an inline fuse holder - to send power to the connectors by the Fuel Tank - to power an electric fuel pump. If you want to add one. The connectors at the fuel tank are also wrapped up in the wiring harness back there. hope that helps.. Carl B.

Radio Wiring: See : http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47578&p=413023&viewfull=1#post413023 Blue is Power Red is Power for the face plate light The radio is grounded via the screws that hold it to the metal frame of the dash - so you have to have a good ground on the dash frame. hope that helps Carl B.

FYI - Fuel Tank Hoses - see hose #20 hope that helps.. Carl B.

If you have an experienced/knowledgeable early Z mechanic to turn too -it wouldn't hurt to get a second opinion. Sitting for 20 years - it is possible that the Synchro's have built up corrosion. If that turns out to be the case - you'll have to pull the tranny anyway. If the car is a 4spd. now and want the 5spd. - then have one rebuilt - or buy one that is already been rebuilt.. Then you get into the "while I'm at it" mode - and you might wind up replacing the clutch and turning the flywheel.. Good luck.. Carl B.

There were no options on the Datsun 240Z's sent to North America - prior to the "optional" Automatic Transmission..really none after that as well. That picture is the Front of the 1969 Sales Brochure - and you are correct - that is a very early car. The brochure listed Radio, Heater, Clock as standard equipment, as well as Cigarette Lighter {aka Power Port - } and Colliapsible Steering. "These specifications are subject to change without notice". FWIW, Carl B.

Great videos! Thanks! {oh..someone already said that}. I enjoyed being about watch the suspensions on the different Z's work over the same rough segment of the dirt roads.. great shots.. FWIW, Carl B.

The Above at POST 301 - David Martin purchased the Friselle car - Bob might be able to put you in contact with David - send Bob a PM. On that SHOW - Adam wanted to trade his Maserati even for the Friselle car. The Maserati had a current market value of aound $225,000.00. Bruce wanted $50K plus the Maserati.. or $275,000.00. FWIW, Carl B.

How many miles are on that Tranny? Might be a situation where the clutch is not fully disengaging the disc from the flywheel. I'd check the operation of the clutch first especially if you experience the problem in all gears at the same time. Second, I'd try changing the Tranny Fluid - to one of the Redline or Royal Purple synthetics. Also agree - I wouldn't put a 30 year old used transmission in the car - without having it rebuilt in the first place. Personally I'd go with the 83 5 spd. - it is plenty strong. FWIW, Carl B.

I can't see any reason not to use shims - to set things up and measure the correct height. Most Regrind Cam sellers will tell you what size lash pads should be used with their Cams in that engine - I'd be a little concerned if they don't know.. I'd also be a little concerned if I had head work done and the valve stems were not at the same height.. FWIW, Carl B.

To put the FS5C71A out of the roadster into a Z - you have to have the 240Z bellhousing AND a longer tail shaft & housing. {so it's not just the bellhousing}. That transmission and the matching driveshaft were the "competition" parts used in 70/71. That drive shaft with it's bolted flanges is stronger than the OEM units in the Z's. That is the setup that both BRE and BSR ran back in 70-73. So I wouldn't worry about it not being strong enough for a street car. The differential was moved rearward with the introduciton of the type "B" tranny - ie the 1972 model year. If you are swapping in an 83 tranny - I'd go ahead and move the differential rearward and use the 72 - 78 drive shaft. Nonetheless the driveshaft out of the 70 will work with the 83 tranny - if you leave the differental in its more forward position. FWIW, Carl B. Oh - BTW - that drive shaft and your half shafts use a "splined" interface - they aren't geared.

I'd say join HybridZ.org if you are not already a member there. First - see if someone there with experience is anywhere near you, or if they can recommend someone that knows what they are doing. Or see if you get some bids for the project from someone that is close to you. BTW - giving only the State that you are in as your "location" really doesn't provide any useful information to anyone that might be willing to help - as they have no idea were you actually are.. FWIW, Carl B.

Two things 1. Some of my cars sit for months between use and when I wanted to use them, the battery was dead. 2. Batteries in cars that sit for months - were lasting at most 3 1/2 years About 20 years ago, I got tired of both 1 & 2 above. Started hooking the cars up to battery tenders {float chargers} that I got at the Marine Supply Store. They were broadly used by boat owners here in Clearwater to maintain the charge in stored boats. Bottom line - all of my cars now start whenever I want to use them and battery life cycle has increased to over 7 years. FWIW, Carl B.

If the car was sitting for long with the dash out - the first thing I'd check is the charge in the battery. Second place I'd look is at the wires on/under/around the steering column. Just a guess Carl B.

Jim - that is just toooo funny --- :-) Carl B.

I can't get over how clean the undercarriage appears to be.. I'd need to see a picture of the entire center section of the exhaust system to tell if that is the original resonator - I can tell you that my White 72 with 80K miles still has the original exhaust system.. so it is not unusual. keep at it.. Carl B.

No - a very late 71 Model Year. It has the "A" type tranny and center console.Some were produced into 09/71. 72 Model year started production in in 09/71 with VIN's starting at 46001 FWIW, Carl B.

While it is up on stands - get good pictures of the floorboards and frame rails - as well as the entire undercarriage. Keep it as close to original or at least Stock as possilbe. It will sell faster and for more money that way today. Regardless of the actual mileage, or condition of the engine - most buyers for a car like this want the engine compartment to look as close to original as possible. So a well detailed engine with block painted etc will be a big plus when selling. Depends on local demand - but when finished $16K to $18 would be a bargain for the buyer. {if everything is done right}. I also agree with the full dash cap.. cracked dashes are just ugly...and turn buyers off FWIW, Carl B.

Gee - I must have arrived here just after that Amazing Event!! Even then I would not have expected that in CLEARWATER!! FWIW, Carl B.

Oh.. ya.. right. I was focused on the shape of the wheel rim lip.. I've always liked the Appliance Wire Mesh wheels.. FWIW, Carl B.