Carl Beck

Is it Cad or Zinc? It seems that some were Cad Plated and some were Zinc. It's been argued about for years. I can only tell you the nuts,bolts,washers and other small parts I took to our Materials Lab were Cad Plated. {when I say "our", I mean Honeywell Space Systems}. They have several ways of identifying the specific compounds of any materials, and thus specify the proper handling and disposal procedures for recycling. I'll take their word for it. Other people have had parts tested in one way or another - and were told it was Zinc. Cadmium was commonly used in the US and around the world in the post WW-II period for corrosion resistance, up until it was classified as a Hazardous Material by the EPA { a heavy metal}. Which in turn subjected the Cadmium and associated plating solutions to expensive control, containment and disposal fees, as well as to EPA harassment. Today other than a few Aerospace and Defense contractors or their suppliers - not many Plating companies will use Cadmium for anything. The Plating Shops that can use Cadmium, will charge about three times as much as Zinc plating, because of the additional costs of regulation. {which is not a problem for DOD or NASA}. Shops that can't or don't offer Cadmium plating - will tell you it is the same as Zinc. Indeed the finished product can look almost identical. Also over the years the technology of electroplating has advanced and different compounds with Zinc can be almost as good as Cadmium in terms of corrosion resistance, but it takes very sophisticated plating control processes - and again it is more expensive. Cadmium is about three times more durable in corrosion resistance than Zinc plating of the same thickness. Parts plated with either Cadmium or Zinc come out a dull sliver in color. The Bright Yellow finish with blue/red highlights is the result of a Yellow Chromate dip. That is another sacrifice coating applied over the top of either Cadmium or Zinc. {kind of a surface sealer if you will} Given the appearance of nuts, bolts, washers found on now 40+ year old Z's - I'd have to believe that the guys in the Materials Lab were correct, and that most of the parts were originally Cad Plated. Zinc plated parts simply do not last that long. FWIW, Carl B.

The problem with the "verified sales" - is that cars are sent to auction when the owner isn't able to sell them locally - or when they are of NO interest to serious Collectors. It's matter of definition - but I have yet to see an excellent 240Z of any year sell for $12K. The real problem is that the "Collector Car Tracker" - doen't really track true Collector Cars. One might say it tracks "collectibles". Sad that it gives many uninformed people the false idea that they can find/buy a truly "excellent" #1/#2 Condition example for $12K. FWIW, Carl B.

I have the Bilstien shocks for the 240Z, that they sold in the 70's - on my Blue 72. As I recall I put them on in 74.. they are STILL the best shock I've ever had on a 240Z. Wish Bilstien would offer them again.. FWIW, Carl B.

I think you are correct - I had to go out the garage to look at them. They have less taper than I was thinking about - stamping the bell out of the mouth makes them look tappered.. they aren't. K&N also offeres something like them.. see: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread20972.html FWIW, Carl B.

Looks like the Stock Air Horn design on the air cleaner base - is very close to the same 5.2 vs 5.8. The only advantage I see is that you would have more room between the top of the horn and aftermarkt air cleaners. Dyno tests did show a loss of about 4 HP if the stock air cleaner base with air horms was removed.. You gain about 5 HP if the top of the air cleaner and air cleaner filter were removed. Interesting.. Carl B.

Hi Matt: Good for you!! The Story about why he bought it - - adds as much collector interest, as who the owner was! Do take some detailed pictures to show us when it arrives.. FWIW, Carl B.

Use HLS30 69776 or try HLS30-69776 Six Digit VIN's started in Aug of 72 with HLS30 100000 FWIW, Carl B.

In case it hasn't been mentioned: We need Heater Cores for the 240Z. A couple of us have looked everywhere here in the US - MSA seems to get one every once in a while, but they are ...$300.00 AIR. The supplier that used to supply them here for $69.00 - no longer makes them. The 260Z/280Z heater cores are larger and won't fit in the 240Z heater box. FWIW, Carl B.

What is the "white" stuff on the roof? Did you look under the car by chance? Also note 2.8L engine.. I wonder if the original engine is still available with the car... If it's solid underneath, if that is the origin paint it came with from the factory... might be worth $6K... But RUST is a big factor..and the car would have to be inspected carefully. FWIW, Carl B.

800 lb corner weight? On a 240Z it is around 635 lbs per corner.. So the 240Z is "about" 2540 lbs.. and that would make the Chevette ... what? 3200 lbs... I was thinking that the Chevette was a pretty cheap and light weight car - yes/no? On a street driven 240Z - lowered - it would seen that 197 lbs. in. would yield a very stiff and harsh ride, even with properly matched shocks. {stiff and harsh being pretty subjective terms} Stock Springs on the 280Z are 103 lbs. in Front and 127 lbs. in. Rear FWIW, Carl B.

Great Post - yet another "project" to work on this winter.. I think I have a couple of used spares that might be repairable.. FWIW, Carl B.

Search on the Web - there are lots of guys in other States that will get you a title for just about anything. Easier to do in non-title States with older cars. They charge a fee of course.. but that may be a way to go.. FWIW, Carl B.

John - I recall something from years ago - wasn't the "K" casting used for R180's with 4 spyder gears? Or didn't the Nissan Comp. R180's come with 4 spyder gears. Or am I confusing that with something else.? ksbeta - Swapping in a different Ring & Pinion, then setting the differental up correctly - takes some experience and can require additional shims that you may not have on hand. I'd check with a local differential speciality shop - to see how much they would charge for the job - or if they will even take an old Nissan differential in to begin with. Otherwise - like John suggests - just buy a good factory unit or used factory unit.. FWIW, Carl B.

Now he needs to do a BRE Baja Z off road / rally bike..

There were Nissan OEM Headlight Covers, and then there were After-market headlight covers. They are different. The pictures that Blue Posted are of the Nissan OEM type, or reproductions of the Nissan OEM type. I haven't seen anyone Post pictures of the After-market type. Last time I looked the After-market type were still available. FWIW, Carl B.

In Your Picture titled "5 Wires". "A" - Connectors wrapped in Blue Tape on wiring harnesses - were not originally used in your car. However in some cases they can be used. The Black & Green Wires can be jumped together - with a jumper wire that includes an inline fuse holder - to send power to the connectors by the Fuel Tank - to power an electric fuel pump. If you want to add one. The connectors at the fuel tank are also wrapped up in the wiring harness back there. hope that helps.. Carl B.

Radio Wiring: See : http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47578&p=413023&viewfull=1#post413023 Blue is Power Red is Power for the face plate light The radio is grounded via the screws that hold it to the metal frame of the dash - so you have to have a good ground on the dash frame. hope that helps Carl B.

FYI - Fuel Tank Hoses - see hose #20 hope that helps.. Carl B.

If you have an experienced/knowledgeable early Z mechanic to turn too -it wouldn't hurt to get a second opinion. Sitting for 20 years - it is possible that the Synchro's have built up corrosion. If that turns out to be the case - you'll have to pull the tranny anyway. If the car is a 4spd. now and want the 5spd. - then have one rebuilt - or buy one that is already been rebuilt.. Then you get into the "while I'm at it" mode - and you might wind up replacing the clutch and turning the flywheel.. Good luck.. Carl B.

There were no options on the Datsun 240Z's sent to North America - prior to the "optional" Automatic Transmission..really none after that as well. That picture is the Front of the 1969 Sales Brochure - and you are correct - that is a very early car. The brochure listed Radio, Heater, Clock as standard equipment, as well as Cigarette Lighter {aka Power Port - } and Colliapsible Steering. "These specifications are subject to change without notice". FWIW, Carl B.

Great videos! Thanks! {oh..someone already said that}. I enjoyed being about watch the suspensions on the different Z's work over the same rough segment of the dirt roads.. great shots.. FWIW, Carl B.

The Above at POST 301 - David Martin purchased the Friselle car - Bob might be able to put you in contact with David - send Bob a PM. On that SHOW - Adam wanted to trade his Maserati even for the Friselle car. The Maserati had a current market value of aound $225,000.00. Bruce wanted $50K plus the Maserati.. or $275,000.00. FWIW, Carl B.

How many miles are on that Tranny? Might be a situation where the clutch is not fully disengaging the disc from the flywheel. I'd check the operation of the clutch first especially if you experience the problem in all gears at the same time. Second, I'd try changing the Tranny Fluid - to one of the Redline or Royal Purple synthetics. Also agree - I wouldn't put a 30 year old used transmission in the car - without having it rebuilt in the first place. Personally I'd go with the 83 5 spd. - it is plenty strong. FWIW, Carl B.

I can't see any reason not to use shims - to set things up and measure the correct height. Most Regrind Cam sellers will tell you what size lash pads should be used with their Cams in that engine - I'd be a little concerned if they don't know.. I'd also be a little concerned if I had head work done and the valve stems were not at the same height.. FWIW, Carl B.

To put the FS5C71A out of the roadster into a Z - you have to have the 240Z bellhousing AND a longer tail shaft & housing. {so it's not just the bellhousing}. That transmission and the matching driveshaft were the "competition" parts used in 70/71. That drive shaft with it's bolted flanges is stronger than the OEM units in the Z's. That is the setup that both BRE and BSR ran back in 70-73. So I wouldn't worry about it not being strong enough for a street car. The differential was moved rearward with the introduciton of the type "B" tranny - ie the 1972 model year. If you are swapping in an 83 tranny - I'd go ahead and move the differential rearward and use the 72 - 78 drive shaft. Nonetheless the driveshaft out of the 70 will work with the 83 tranny - if you leave the differental in its more forward position. FWIW, Carl B. Oh - BTW - that drive shaft and your half shafts use a "splined" interface - they aren't geared.