Carl Beck

I can't remember the exact details - so I'll call a couple guys that rebuid trannies monthly... However, as I recall - one of the transmissions had a large nut that secured the shaft that 1st & Reverse are on - and that nut can come lose. This was corrected by reverse threading that nut on later transmissions so it tightened with rotation of the shaft. {or viseversa}. I just don't remember if that was a 4 or 5 spd. that had the problem I have had some "clunking" in reverse - usually it was caused by rear brake shoes hanging up - and putting additional strain on old weak U-joints in the half shafts. But in that case someone standing outside the car as I backed up - could hear the clunk at the rear of the car. Let you know if I find any useful info. Carl B.

The metal retainer on the bottom of the OEM knob - is there to help prevent the knob from splitting/cracking, as well as to keep the set nut from hitting the wood. So long term it is very important. Tongue Oil - or some other oil finish will also help keep the wood from splitting/cracking.

Do you know what "parts" you need? The first thing to do - is take your present antenna apart to see if the drive strap is broken [the long nylon rope that attaches to the top end of the antenna}, then check the electric motor to see if it runs, then look at the gears inside. In the mean time - I'll look to see what I have... but wouldn't want to send you stuff that won't fix your problem. As I recall - you have to Ground the body of the antenna if you run it out of the car.. for that matter it needs a good body Ground to run in the car. Carl B.

Interesting - - The Shinny Black one looks just like all of them I've taken off manual transmission equipped 1970 Z's. FWIW, Carl B.

On my 73 the Key that fit the Door - also fit the ignition. I took the door lock to a local Locksmith and he made me new keys. I'd sure try that first. FWIW, Carl B.

You got a heck of a DEAL - Goes to show - that you should buy stuff when you don't need it, or when it's too big a bargain to pass up. My problem is now I have about $35,000.00 worth of that stuff... FWIW, Carl B.

Maybe one thing. After I soak them with Kroil for a day - then coat them with Kroil - I put a Snap-On line wrench on them - then holding the line wrench under some tension - I smack the other end of the line wrench a swift blow with a brass hammer. Dynamic torque breaks them lose far better than slowly applied torque by hand. If the flair nuts round off - I next go to vice grips and do the same thing.. SMACK! All these now 40+ year old flair nuts are very soft with age. I'll be ordering the Irwin's myself.. Kano Labs' KROIL - nothing but KROIL... Good luck, Carl B.

Great Picture... Carl B.

Doesn't surprise me. 4 people willing to pay $1200.00 or more, 2 people willing to pay $1500.00. I guess I shouldn't sell mine now for less than ....$1250.00. FWIW, Carl B.

If you have a CNC router - you would just start with a thick piece of clear acrylic - cut the pattern in the bottom - and cut/form the dome on the top. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi David: Please let us know if you actually get them. I also called and was told they had them. When they went an looked in the inventory shelves they found they had none. When I finally called after waiting two weeks- they saidl "Oh..sorry we meant to call you.. They USED to have them listed on this Page of their Web Site - I see they have removed that listing at this point. At the time they had this info: 70 71 72 73 NISSAN 24OZ HEATER CORE Item#: 9378 2251 Price: $109.99 Shipping + $15.00 1-800-900-9560 http://www.marketworks.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxesfshop.aspx?c=421891&sfid=75198&sid=0 I called before ordering on-line to make sure they actually had them.. and was told that yes they had them - so I ordered 2. Good luck - I hope you actually get one... if not I hope it doesn't take a major effort to get the charges taken off your credit card. FWIW, Carl B.

Shows you how totally screwed up Winkipedia is. Actually the original concept drawing that was the basis for the 63 Sting Ray was drawn by Peter Brock when he worked at GM Design in 1957. From that original sketch as a Coupe - the first prototype Stingray Racer would be built as a roadster. By 1959 Dr. **** Thompson would drive a Stingray Racer to a Championship in C-Modified Class of SCCA. That in turn evolved into the 1961 Mako Shark show car. From the Stingray Racer prototype Chuck Poehlmann and Larry Shinoda would refine the shape into a production ready roadster and coupe first produced for the 1963 Model Year. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes of course - we know that HLS30 00006 and 00008 are alive and well. Who knows, maybe HLS30 00009 though 00012 will show up some day. FWIW, Carl B.

I thought this was interesting.. Pre Production or "Pilot" 1963 Corvette Sting Ray - Sept. 1962 build date. http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/10/25/pilot-1963-corvette-convertible-to-cross-the-block/?refer=news FWIW, Carl B.

Sell it "as is" - it would cost $650.00 or more to have the tranny pulled and rebuilt - but doing that would not make the car worth an Additional $650.00 to anyone. Let next owner address the tranny problem - and that way he'll know for sure what has been done.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hell - I was 27% lighter 40 years ago too. Carl B.

"Some heater cores listed"..... the question is where do we find a heater core for a 240Z? In that case - the Datsun Store Listing says: "We don't carry this unit in stock but it usually only takes us a few days to get one after you place your order. Please allow an extra week for delivery. AND - - - Last update 02/10" They may have had them two and half years ago.. FWIW, Carl B.

Jim A couple months ago I ordered TWO from that sight. When I didn not receive anything from them in two weeks - I called to find out what was happening - - they said: "SORRY we don't have any and the supplier won't produce more at this point." Then it took me four weeks and four phone calls to get the charges to my Credit Card reversed... There are a lot places that say they have something - even when you call to verify - then you have a hassle getting your money back.. FWIW, Carl B.

260Z and 280Z heater cores seem to be available - but that doesn't seem to the case for the 72. I searched, placed orders for the 72's on-line - and in the end every vendor had to cancel the order when they found that they didn't have them, nor could they get them. The 260/280 cores will not fit in the 70-73 heater box either. Motorsports lists one - but they don't didn't have any when I called - even at $300.00. The local radiator shops around here found that their suppliers don't have any either. Good luck, Carl B.

That listing seems to be from 2009 - - wonder if he still has any? If a Repro is worth $885.00 I suppose originals would be worth something more than that. I don't think I would sell mine {excellent used} for less than $1100.00. FWIW, Carl B.

There must be something about the Tampa Bay area - the last time I know of - there was a couple that pushed to get the strip kits reproduced. {Jessie & ?? in the Suncoast Z Club}. If that is the same software/company - the Kits worked out well. People hate to buy things - sight unseen. Can that company print out a picture of the strips in that Kit? If so it might help you sell more. FWIW, Carl B.

Wow - Looking at the pictures Kurbycar32 linked to - the early 260Z heater is quite different. Instead of the end of the heater box coming off as in 70-73 - - the 260Z heater box splits in half. Anyway you look at it - replacing the heater core is one of the Less Fun jobs on either of these Z Cars. FWIW, Carl B.

What does he have - that you need? Carl B.

PM Sent Carl B.

Hi Julio: Man - that is a lot of work and it looks like you have done a very nice job for her. She has to be very pleased to see her Z looking like new again. FWIW, Carl B.