Carl Beck

OK - First - when your friend let the jack down - I did not hear you REV the engine While applying the HAND BRAKE. Secondly - as stated you may have to try that a couple of times.. Not stop at 1. When the clutch disc brakes lose - you will feel pressure in the Clutch Pedal. An Edit from the above: I just put the car on an empty street. Start the engine in 1st and get the car rolling about 15mph - then yank the E-Brake hard, while pressing down on the gas AND HOLDING THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO THE FLOOR. Usually takes a couple to three or four trys. Of course you have to be ready to turn the key off if you run out of street... Also - you have to make sure your rear brakes are properly adjusted - otherwise the E-Brake won't get enough grip to stop the wheels. BTW - were you holding the Clutch Pedal to the Floor - when your friend dropped the Jack? You don't need a new clutch and tranny - you just have to learn the process of breaking a frozen clutch disc free. try everything again... Clutch Pedal To the Floor - REV the engine and Stop the REAR wheels with the E-Brake. good luck, Carl B.

The 2+2 clutch is slightly larger in diameter and has more clamping force. I can't remember if the 2+2 flywheel has a larger diameter finished area or not - just to be safe I'd get the 2+2 flywheel with the clutch assy. if I were going that route. FWIW, Carl B.

The method described should work.. I just put the car on an empty street. Start the engine in 1st and get the car rolling about 15mph - then yank the E-Brake hard, while pressing down on the gas. Usually takes a couple to three or four trys. Of course you have to be ready to turn the key off if you run out of street... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi David: Great to hear from you. Yes - that is the picture. Been there - Done that. That was when I bought the Ferrari. Now on my second marriage for the past 24 years. Looking back I wouldn't change a thing! Most guys are lucky if they find one good wife - I've had twoLOL There is what looks like a very nice 72 510 4 dr. - in Washington. Dark Green - with 54 miles... You should add that one. Might as well have 8. take care Carl B.

Just remembered that I had these pictures on my server. I have an NOS set of clips that I photographed - but they were very expensive... FWIW, Carl B.

With an L28 and rebuilt type B tranny - - - you did make sure you put the correct throw out bearing collar in with the clutch you used - right? FWIW, Carl B.

I knew I should have bought that 240Z myself !! - - I had a beautiful picture of that car - with Mountains in the background... but it is hidden somewhere in 25 years of backup's... Good for you... Carl B.

Gee...that sounds familiar... did you ask David how he got connected with the car? I knew a guy that was in Product & Technollogy Public Relations Mercedes-Benz USA - who also had a really nice Silver Z he was trying to sell... several years ago.. Interesting... Carl B.

Most of the After-Market wiper blades come with one or more adaptors - that allow them to be mounted on the most common wiper arms. Usually they include instructions that show you which adaptor to use with which wiper arm. FWIW, Carl B.

"This Video contains content from UMG, who has blocked it in your country on copyright grounds." Am I the only one getting the above message?

This one was listed before - first it was at a Dealer here in Florida. I can't recall exactly - but I think he was asking something in the range of $16,000.00. Might be a very good buy at $5,900.00 BIN.. especially on the East Coast. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: I ask the seller to send me more pictures showing more of the details of the car - which he was kind enough to do. The pictures he sent were fairly high resolution and after reviewing the pictures - I sent him the following response. Just my honest opinion. {I had to reduce the size of the image to post the picture of the engine here} = = = = = Hi Jon: Yes Thanks - I received the pictures. Great looking 510 by the way!! It appears you have some experience with the 240Z's as well. So I'm most likely not going to tell you anything you didn't already know. Just my honest opinion based on pictures only - and not intended to bad mouth the car in any way. Mileage is a very important thing - but it is only one thing. The value of 240Z's today is based on the condition of hundreds of things - every system, subsystem, component, part, bits and pieces. From the over-all condition of the engine compartment is very rough. Over-spray and grim, what should be Shinny Yellow Cad plated parts - are now a dull gray or very dull silver. {Carb linkage, Air Injection Tubes, Fuel Rails, Brake Lines and all nuts/bolts etc} Everything would have to be restored. The Yellow Cad parts after years and lots of thermo cycles, meaning lots of miles of use, turn dull gray. I have seen about six or seven cars that had less than 20K original miles - and the Yellow Cad parts on all of them were still quite presentable. Not bright and shinny as new - but still presenting their original Yellow Cad appearance. I would guess that the car had far more than 714 miles put on it before it was stored. Since all the original hoses are still in very good - although grimy - condition, meaning they aren't all frayed. I would guess that the engine has less than 50K miles - but still more than 20K. All this bases only on pictures of your Z and hundreds of other 240Z's I've looked closely at over the years. It is a shame they did such a poor job on the re-spray. Nonetheless, it looks like it might be a very restorable 240Z. All the parts are there, the interior is in great shape, and would be a great car to refresh or fully restore. In todays market with the A/T ... it might find a buyer at something closer to $10K. Whoever buys it - will wind up putting at least a year and another $20K into restoring it. good luck with the sale. kind regards, Carl = = = = = = = = = = = = FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Webmamic70: All of the cars I have listed with L24's in the 013xxx series have build dates of 09/70. So I think Sept. 70 is right on the money. For sure if you plan to be in the area - let me know you are coming, and we well be sure to get together for some serious Z Car time. Depending on what time of year - there might be some good car events going on somewhere close as well. Sebring, Daytona, Amelia Island etc. Drop me an E-Mail at: beck at becksystems DOT com Enjoy the restoration process... it is a car well worth the effort. Carl

Hi Seattlejester: Too many things to address at one time in one Post. Just too many variables in that list of items. I would get the engine in the car and get it running first. Make sure you have all the ground wires clean and attached to clean metal on the body - this is very important. {most likely a cause of your floating power} Then start with one item - and work on that. You Post was titled "NO Headlights" If you have power across the fuse when all the above is done, then the next place to check is the headlight switch. The contacts wear and corrode with age. Sometimes just flipping the switch on and off several times - will clear enough corrosion off the contacts to pass power to the headlights. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Webmanic70 Great pictures and your Datsun 240Z is in amazing condition. Tell us more about how you came to own it etc. Item # 83 Mud Guard 63835-E4100 Item #82 Sealing - Mud Guard 63815-E4100 Item #82 is a dense foam rubber weather strip - usually the originals have all but dissolved, and turn into a gritty goo. The seat belts turn silver with age. The dye evaporates and/or fades over decades, this happens to the surge binding on the carpet - only the threads turn brown in most cases. What is the original engine serial number FWIW, Carl B.

I don't know about that site - but the Parts Catalog shows 11061-N3600 as superceding all previous numbers - and being for the L24/L26. At least in terms of form, fit and function - any L24 thermostate housing will work. Courtesyparts.com lists the part at $31.69... FWIW, Carl B.

I haven't noticed any significant difference 70 though 73. The "box" is one thing - do you have a good heater core? Pretty difficult to find new core replacements. Some places list them - but when you order they really don't have them - or they have parts that are "supposed" to fit but don't. Heater cores might be the next thing that have to be reproduced.. Good luck, Carl

Every place I contacted for used 1/4's last year wanted $800.00 plus shipping for clean originals with no body work. It does take a bit of work to remove them and get them ready to ship. Since you are in Mich. it might be worth the effort. I don't know what you mean by - they are in good shape after extensive body work was done - - - if they are full of bondo, or metal patches - and now they look like they are in good shape - - that's one thing. If they are mostly rust free and in original shape with good metal that's another. So their value may vary with condition. Gave up on finding good used panels - and went with NOS replacement on the last car I restored last year. FWIW, Carl B.

Someone local or close to him - most likely showed up with CASH in hand. Which forced him to decide to grab the cash or take a chance on Ebay tire kickers and non-payers. Must have been what the buyer expected it to be... FWIW, Carl B.

Very interesting... thanks guys..

According to Hemmings: This Day in Automotive History 6/26/1958:* First Datsuns (Nissan) exported to U.S.

The last set I sold - were taken off a 72 240Z when it was new - matter of fact they were never installed on the car, as the Dealer had already put mags on it pre-sale. They were carefull stored and looked Perfect. I sold that set of 4 for $500.00. People who are doing a full restoration - will pay $125.00 each for a set of four - but they have to be SHOW READY. The one's pictured would need to be completely refinished and might bring something closer to $35.00 to $45.00 each. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Fico: Easy for us to understanding anyone wanting a 240Z. They are beautifully styled and engineered - by any standard. That is an interesting exhaust system on your G - I wonder how different it would sound with and without the dead end mufflers or resonators. Hard to picture exactly what effect they would have on exhaust gas flow. Know of any technical data or third party testing that was done? You'll hear it often - buy the cleanest body you can find - pay the extra money up front - it will be the least expensive in the long run. Good luck, Carl B.

Very important to have the correct timing curve dialed into any distributor for your car. The timing curves in many of the later cars are set at the factory to meet emissions standards/tests and won't deliver the preformance desired in other applications. I haven't been able to find a shop around here {Clearwater, FL} that still has a working Sun Distributor Machine, on which timing curves can be measured/checked/adjusted etc. FWIW, Carl B.

GOOD TIP - When the Gland Nut is tightened down properly on the shock - you should have about 1/8" gap between the gland nut and the strut tube. Some manufacturers send new Gland Nuts with the shocks - that are thicker/thinner depending on the total lenght of the shock tube - but many times people use the old gland nuts not realizing that there is a difference. Some manufacturers send a washer..but are not clear in their instructions about the washers use or purpose.. So some people leave them out... If you run out of threads, or if the gland nut screws down to the top of the strut tube -something is not right... FWIW, Carl B.