Carl Beck

Agreed - compressing it enough to make the fender fit properly might be a problem. The original close cell foam was a little less than 1/2" thick - -- Hard to tell how firm or soft that rubber seal is from a picture.

How much was he asking?? Looks super clean for the year and mileage.

With the Nissan Comp. FIA 4 piston {Sumo Mk-65's as I recall} calipers and vented rotors - there are matching larger dia. rear wheel cylinders as well. That's the set up on the BRE Baja Z - and it uses a 1973 style prop valve and booster. Really great feeling brakes.

A disc/drum set up is just as good as a 4 wheel disc brake system. Except - - - when your brake upgrade includes ventilated rotors, 4 piston calipers up front and rear discs. when you are doing the "Tail of the Dragon" at challenging speeds - or other canon carving etc. In that case "better performance" equals far less brake fade effect. Plus a reduction in wheel bearing grease melting and running out. Except - - -when you are talking about brake feel/control - in that case I believe that you have better modulation control with the 4 piston calipers as well. In terms of being the "best" at stopping the car from higher speeds in a shorter distance once - the disc/drum set up is about equal to any brake system upgrade - - because shorter stopping distances are more a function of traction than the clamping force of the brake system. Upgrade to a 4 wheel disc ABS - and you have a better system in Panic situations than stock, for the average driver. What actually stops your car - is the friction that can be maintained between the tires and the road. Tread compound and pattern, in addition to the load effect braking performance the most. in terms of stopping distance. Bottom line - spend the money on better pads/shoes and better tires. FWIW, Carl B.

Replace the heater core??? Where do you find one? I looked everywhere I could think of about six months ago - no one had any at that point. Motorsports shows one - for like $300.00 - but did not have any to actually sell. FWIW, Carl B.

I have the BRE Rear Bar on one of my 72 240Z's - sounds like it mounts the same way as the ST Bar. Swapping in the R200 was not an issue. FWIW, Carl B.

Good discription E. Item #60,61,62, & 63 in the diagram previously Posted above. That would be Item #28 in the diagram previously Posted above. That would be Item #15 in the diagram previously Posted above. That would be Item #6 in the diagram previously Posted above. Not shown in the above diagram. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - and today you can buy a very detailed Die Cast of one of Bill's restored 240Z's. Correct right down to the VIN on the Dash... it is the Franklin Mint Model - in Orange. A car Bill saved from the crusher after a tree limb fell on it.. Nice as it was when Bill was done - the next owner spent another year or two plus many thousands of dollars making it even more correct and even nicer!. It is a really great 240Z story in and of itself. FWIW, Carl B.

So now all you need is a Cell Phone, Satellite Radio, GPS, iPod and an arm rest with a cup holder ... and you are good to go! - - Oh wait - emergency tool kit, some heater hose clamps, spare fan belt, and / or Hagerty Roadside Assistance Phone Number... Have a safe trip... Carl B.

The water control valve would be item #6 in the diagram above. AND YES - they will all be harder to get to with the Dealer Air installed. FWIW, Carl B.

I like the looks of that wheel ! - the thicker and cushioned grip will provide a better grip, while letting your hands relax a bit more on longer trips. The smaller dia will give you a little more room to change the position of at least your left leg on long driving segments as well. But if you don't like it - you don't like it. I do have the stock wheel in the 72 that I use for longer road trips... but after hours of driving my hands do start to get cramped, and the blood circulation is reduced... I've been thinking about sending a stock wheel out - having it cut down 1/2" in dia - then padded and leather wrapped. You are younger than me - - but for a 1000 mile rally - - - I'd have to install a seat with better leg, lumbar and back support. Which is what I did, when I installed the seats out of a late 90's Accura Integra. Huge difference in long distance driving comfort. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Tom: That lever is supposed to work - with or without A/C. If you look at the diagram below - there is a door or gate at #27 - that lever opens that gate to let fresh air in from the cowl for VENT or HEAT. The same lever closes that Gate at #27 for OFF. You most likely do not need to remove the heater control panel - there is a control cable that should be connected to that door/gate at #27 - - -the control lever is close to #28/#29 - - -get down there under the dash on the passenger side - and take a look. Nonetheless to answer your quesiton - you have to unplug the Fan Switch, the radio face plate has to be out as well. Answered above - - - and See the wires located just above and to the right of #37? Check to see if they are plugged together - and see if you have current there. There is also a fuse for the HIGH SPEED Fan that is in-line {not in the fuse panel}.. you'll want to check that as well. Good luck... Carl B.

Agreed - if the steering wheel is shaking in your hand at 65 - the problem is most likely up front. The front suspension on the 240Z - 280Z's are very sensitive. Almost anything out of spec. can cause a high speed vibration. As everyone suggests tire balance, wheel problems are perhaps the first thing to eliminate. Past that - worn shocks, ball joints, tie-rod ends, worn steering racks and more commonly tension/compression rod bushings that are shot. The problem with worn tension/compression rod bushings was identified very early on - and Bolt-On-Parts developed a T/C Rod Kit to solve it. They replaced the rubber bushings with an Aluminum socket and hard plastic ball arrangement. I've been running one on my 72 240Z since about 1976. I found the Kit only after I had replaced every other part, bought new tires and had them balanced several different times - but still had the front end shakes at high speeds. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ray: Amazing - - there is next to ZERO publicity about this event here in the U.S.. Either you are circulating in these circles or you are unaware it is happening. Perhaps the Event Organizers and participants want it that way. I've checked the Sports Channels, National News etc. and found NO Reporting from any of the cities visited etc. I hope someone - documents complete coverage in a video format - then sells the video's. Looks like it would be a really great way to spend May. Plus a really great event to participate in with a 240Z. Maybe Next Year... Carl B.

From my notes of an earlier discussion = Ken P. reported Feb 06: Eibach: Front 69-183 (prog) / Rear 86-212(prog) with a 1" drop. FWIW, Carl B.

Move the lower spring perch up or down the strut about 1 inche - and all 7" inches of "Installed Height" goes up or down with it. That is because the upper spring seat is not fixed... Perch height directly effects the ride height of the car because the upper spring seat is fixed to the body. Also - a stiffer spring will compress less in lenght with the same load as a softer spring.. so I wouldn't put too much faith in looking at the "installed lenght" given. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't think Wurth makes a paintable undercoating. Most of their products that I've seen are NON-Paintable For a restored 240Z - I'd want to use something like 3M paintable underbody coating or stone guard. Then apply the body color over that. The Z's were body color on the undercarriage from the factory - so I would want to put it back to that. Applying a black undercoat to the underbody - can make the car much harder to resell if the need ever arises. Too many people use black undercoatings to cover up rust or bad repairs - and seeing it on a Z can turn people off to buying.. It is not uncommon to see wheel wells "blacked out"... FWIW, Carl B.

I doubt that g35parts.com has Parts Counter Personel that actually have owned, restored and driven 240Z's. Courtesy is the only place I've found that does.. David House at Courtesy is excellent and very knowledgeable - not to mention a former 240Z owner. BTW - the Dealers depend on the Nissan Parts System for parts that are not in their inventory. So it isn't really a matter of a Dealer Data Base not being up to date. FWIW, Carl B.

In 1968 BRE prepared a Datsun Pickup for Mary McGee to run at the Baja. In addition to their own 510. Conner was also running a Datsun Pickup at the Baja in 1973 - SIMONIZ as a sponsor. Lots of Datsuns ran the Baja in the last 60's and early 70's. FWIW, Carl B.

I hope that you are planing on treating the inside of the Frame Rails, the dog legs, inside the doors etc - to kill and prevent rust. After 40 years they are all rusting from the inside out...

Try Banzai Motorworks: Banzai Motorworks Motorsports Auto Z Car Parts.com -- Motorsport Auto -- Home Black Dragon Black Dragon Automotive - Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX Auto Parts and Accessories They can supply some OEM parts as well as good reproductions in many cases. FWIW, Carl B.

Also - many of the other suppliers will simply put the part on "Back-Order" rather than cancel the order. Then you wind up waiting months to find out that it is never coming in. We have found that Nissan Canada is a different parts distribution system - in the past they have been able to order parts from Japan -that the US Nissan Parts System would not order from Japan - even if the parts were still available in Japan. Frankly it is amazing that any parts for a 40 Plus year old car are still avaliable. Good luck, Carl B.

Most certainly - make it Clearwater!! Then you can buy a Winter Home here as well.. Good luck... Carl B.

Me too - I worked on the Space Shuttle program and I miss them. Of course they flew about three times as long as originally intended. We supplied the Main Engine Controllers and Flight Control Systems for the Shuttles. Did you work Space Station as well?

I know what you mean -- I've gone out to the garage to check on something, then when I got there I had forgotten what I went for in the first place - Sorry to hear about the original engine - throwing a rod is not something we hear about too often. But then, it's not like you don't already have a good replacement... Great looking Z... FWIW, Carl B.