Carl Beck

Hi Arne: There is an answer to a question there now - - 1/79. So these wouldn't be of much use to anyone wanting date correct wheels for their 240Z. Maybe good for someone restoring a 280ZX-R. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: I'd go a little farther than that even. Not only were they never factory installed for North America - they were never shipped from the factory to the U.S. via Nissan's Parts System. I tried to order the Optional 5.5" wheels from Nissan in 1970, 71, 72, 73 and finally gave up in 1974. I worked for a Datsun Dealer in 71, 72, 73 & 74 and the Parts Managers did everything they could to try to get a set of the subject wheels shipped from Japan... it never happened. For several years as "Vintage or Historic" racing gained popularity in the 90's - we tried again to find any documentation that a single set had ever been sent to the US. So that the Z's could run wider wheels against the competing Porsches / Madza's etc. Again no luck. Narrow wheels and relatively small brakes put the 240Z's at a disadvantage against newer model competitors in venues where they had to run "stock" spec.'s Ron Johnson {Nissan competition Parts} sent me the following from his research back in the 90's - - Quote - - - The 5.5" optional steel rim (40300-E4600) was first shown as a option in the 12/71 update of the (US) Z parts book. It was carried thru subsequent updates until 12/72 when it was shown as "out of production". There is remained until the 12/75 update when its reference was deleted entirely. A Datsun in-house memo (dated June 2, 1970) indicates that the " ..... optional wheels have passed the FMVSS standards." Also, if you look on the spec page of the 1970 Z sales brochure (dated 2/70), you will note that the 5.5" rims are shown as an option. FYI, suggested list price for the 5.5" rim in 1970 was $13.50 each ($US). RJ - - - - -End Quote - - - - - - The Nissan Sports Option Catalog 1973 shows a "Road Wheel" PN 40300-E4200 5 1/2J x 14. Again, we never had any luck getting a set sent though the Nissan Parts system to the US. FWIW, Carl B.

If you don't have a Redline Dealer and you don't want to order it - - you can also use Royal Purple Max-Gear. Many of the National auto parts stores carry it in local stock. It is a few more bucks - but I don't like waiting of stuff to be shipped.. http://www.royalpurple.com/product-categories/automotive/#!max-gear GL-4 & GL-5 .. safe for yellow metals.. etc. FWIW Carl B.

It might make a difference. The three pulley system is there to support the addition of an A/C compressor. When these Dealer Installed systems were introduced - the third pulley was added, but the original bolt was put back in place. The end result was that the original bolt was now too short to get as much purchase in the crank as it needed - and over time many of them came loose and backed out. That usually resulted in the damper pulley being damaged and/or the key way in the crank being damaged. The "solution" was to take the original bolt out - before it backed itself out - and replace it with a slightly longer one - that was also slightly larger in diameter. Thus the crank had to be re-threaded, the larger bolt in stalled, and torqued to higher loads. It was also recommended that a thread lock {aka Locktite} be used. If there is a larger bolt in there - you may have to buy a deep well, thin wall socket from one of the higher quality tool suppliers. They have thinner walls that are also stronger than most consumer brands. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Hardway: - OK - what is short, or what is long -the length of the studs or the length of the sleeves on the studs?? In your picture the "sleeves" on the replacement studs are longer or shorter. The actual length of the studs look about the same. In that case, I'm pretty sure the six with longer sleeves go though the top of the intake manifold. I'll look to see if I have some original OEM type to compare. The newer replacement part are not exactly the same... but should work fine. The one that is between sizes - is the one on the rear of the exhaust manifold - where the engine sling bracket goes. The last ten go everywhere else. As I recall - The shorter end of the studs screws into the head everywhere. Be sure to get nuts/washers on all the studs, while everything is loosely fit - before you start to tighten them down. If the actual threaded ends of a couple of them are longer than the original OEM studs - they might be sticking out too far with the manifolds pushed up against the head tight. This is especially true with some headers and/or Cannon manifolds for triple carbs. Tighten them down evenly from the center working toward both ends equally. I'd use some locktite on them. It will help prevent them from welding themselves to the aluminum head - and help prevent them from backing out when you try to take any of the nuts off them in the future. FWIW, Carl B.

Nice looking Z - from 10 feet away. The close up's however of the data plates that weren't removed when the car was repainted aren't encouraging to an expectation of having had quality work done. I mean if a guy is too lazy to take four screws out - to remove the data plate under the hood - before re-spraying the inner-fender.. it has to make you wonder where else needless short-cuts were taken. Like most of these cars - you really have to see them in person to see what the paint and body actually look like... That or you have to believe you'll have to have them repainted yourself. Agree - might be worth taking a look if you are in the area. FWIW, Carl B.

If your Z was equipped with Dealer Installed A/C - - - the original crank pully bolt may have been replaced with one with a larger size head. Other than that - what Bonzi Lon said - should fit.

Hi Jerry: Sorry to hear about the surgery - but glad to hear you seem to be doing fine. Are the carb's going on your 72? or are you keeping #29? FWIW, Carl B.

Oh..yes Chris - thanks for reminding me. That's $52.40 includes an extra charge for vanity tags. I'll have to go check one of the other 240Z's ... but it wasn't much for the vanity tag as I recall.

Here in Florida - Cars over 25 years old - $52.40. Until the financial melt down - and the loss of revenue from property taxes - these plates were about $15.00 per year. Transfering a title used to around $15.00 and now it's $125.00. Getting a new license plate used to cost around $25.00 for the initial registration - now it's $225.00 as I recall. On the other hand - when I bought my 72 new in Washington State - a new registration & plate cost over $85.00 there. When I moved here to Florida in 73 - a new registration and plate cost $15.00. FWIW, Carl B.

Heat = too much resistance. Too much resistance in the loose and corroded fuse terminal on one end. Yes - a dead short will draw too much current and because the wires are too small to carry it - they get hot, and in a good circuit the fuse will blow. If there is no fuse between the battery and the short in the circuit - then the wires will melt. FWIW, Carl B.

Have to admit - that's a hoot..

As I recall - there are only 4 bolts that hold the fan shroud on - and only four that hold the the radiator in. Take the shroud off - then remove the radiator. Since its out - sent it out to be rodded out and pressure tested by a good radiator shop. You should have it back in a day or so.. You'll need to do that in almost any case - anyway FWIW, Carl B.

If it is the e12-80 module just switch to the GM module http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html FWIW, Carl B.

Hi E: I wasn't really recommending the substitution of anything. As you can see a bit farther down in this reply - POR-15 says that Metal-Ready isn't necessary in this case. I was only outlining what I've done for the past 30 years. In terms of cleaning up undercoatings and treating surface rust on auto sheet-metal and preparing it for farther processing. In this case painting it with POR-15 I've only used it for the past 15 years or so. I do strongly agree that with any chemical product - one is always wise to read and follow the manufactures directions. So I support your advice. For that matter my Supplier of Automotive Paints and Supplies - called and talked to the people at POR-15 before the Supplier started carrying the product, to find out exactly what could or could not be used with it. That was at least 15 years ago... when people actually answered their phones. The owner of the Supply business happens to be one of the best Auto Body & Paint men I know - he has been restoring cars for 40 or more years. So he has lots of hands on experience with automotive chemicals and modern paints etc. Reading POR-15's Directions/Questions/Answers from POR-15 Site: - - - - -Quote - - - - - POR-15 Metal Ready {I guess now called Prep & Ready}. Questions and Answers Is It Always Necessary To Apply Metal-Ready first before using POR-15 Rust Preventative Paint? NO - Metal Ready must be used first before applying POR-15 when: 1. Painting on galvanized metal 2. Painting on aluminum 3. Painting on stainless steel 4. Painting on smooth, polished, or new metal surfaces. - - - - - End Quote - - - - - I'm sure that POR-15's Marine-Clean and Prep & Ready would do just as good a job. Although I don't know what the cost would be. OSPHO is relatively inexpensive. I believe that some Home Depot Stores carry it now as well. Auto Paint & Supply Stores have carried it for decades... OSHPO is commonly used for the situations 1-4 above as well. FWIW, Carl B.

Personally - I think This One Is Very Revealing; http://youtu.be/InJm_s3YXzo

Remove the old undercoating - you never know what's under it to begin with. It can be removed with Mineral Spirits or even Kerosene in a well ventilated area. Soak it down - let it sit a few minutes, then use a Putty Knife and some rags. It is most likely thin to begin with. Once the old undercoating is off - Take OSPHO {a mild solution of phosphoric acid} and a Scotch-Brite pad and scrub it down - usually that will result in removing everything down to clean etched metal. Let the OSPHO work for a few hours, then rinse any excess off - -Then paint the inside of the fender with POR-15. While the fenders are off - do the same thing to the rocker panel where is goes under the fender. Scrub it down with OSHPHO, let it sit for a couple hours - then rinse off any excess. Paint with POR-15. Keep a camera with you and photo document everything... FWIW, Carl B.

Listing ended shows "0" bids. Someone missed a good deal if they needed them for a G-Nose.

GREAT!! I'm doing my happy danceLOL I'll PM you...

I wonder where he found the wheels... Love the original BBS's with the covered lugs..

In that case Motnezuma -if it shows five forward gears - I'd be a buyer!! I've been trying to find one for about 15 years... Carl B.

Hi Fred: I've heard that comment before and in many cases it may be true. I'll add that there is a difference between "Concours" and "Stock" Events and Judging. As someone else mentioned a Concours is a Beauty Contest. I had the pleasure of taking to one of the people that is a Judge at both Pebble Beach and Amelia Island. He is also the owner of one of the Vintage Z's and a huge fan of Mr. K not the mention having a rather impressive private collection of Classic/Collectible and Special Interest cars himself. Judges not knowing what is pure "Stock" or "Original" to any specific car is not at all uncommon at the Best Concurs Events. In fact it is mostly the case. They leave the judging of "Stock" or "Original" to the marque clubs, or the Antique Car Clubs like AACA for the most part. No doubt that at least a couple of recognized experts exist somewhere in the world for almost every car made or mass produced - - but they are not usually available or attending every Concours event. The Judges at the Concours Events - ask the owners about their cars - and for the most part the owners are honest in their responses. It is more the preparation and presentation of the car, plus it's inherent beauty that counts on that day, with those Judges at a Concours Event. On the other hand - it's people like you that have to judge what is "Stock" or "Original" on any specific Z at National Level Z Car Events, or The guys at the National Level Corvette Shows etc.. It's the Judges at the Antique Automobile Club of America that focus on historically correct examples. Take Dan's Banks car - already Judged by the ZCCA and the AACA - to a Concours event - and the Judges at that Concours Event would take the ZCCA's & AACA's word for it being "Stock" or "Original" - then on top of that they would look at preparation and presentation as well as the inherent beauty of the design. So - bottom line - Keep up the good work - down the road many others will depend on your judgment. I do agree that it would be nice if not helpful to have the Z equivalent to the Corvette Back Book. Maybe when you retire again - you can work on that. FWIW, Carl B.

Humm..... When I ordered that Part # 32865-U4100 {5spd. Knob} several years ago - I received C2865-H9300 which are the newer 4spd. knobs... {rounder or larger wood}. You sure that is a 5spd. knob? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Wait a minute - at Post #8 you state "The lenses are polycorbonate". At Post #10 you show the discription that says "Headlamp covers are made of clear plexiglas. So looks like they are plexiglas {PMMA} - - or the person writing the description was just using the wrong generic / trade name? I've seen several of the After-market ones broken, scratched.. and I'm pretty sure they are plexiglas! I've used SuperGlue to put a few back together as well. FWIW, Carl B.

The short ones go in the top of the intake manifold, above the intake ports on the head - 6 of them FWIW, Carl B.