Carl Beck

Have to admit - that's a hoot..

As I recall - there are only 4 bolts that hold the fan shroud on - and only four that hold the the radiator in. Take the shroud off - then remove the radiator. Since its out - sent it out to be rodded out and pressure tested by a good radiator shop. You should have it back in a day or so.. You'll need to do that in almost any case - anyway FWIW, Carl B.

If it is the e12-80 module just switch to the GM module http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html FWIW, Carl B.

Hi E: I wasn't really recommending the substitution of anything. As you can see a bit farther down in this reply - POR-15 says that Metal-Ready isn't necessary in this case. I was only outlining what I've done for the past 30 years. In terms of cleaning up undercoatings and treating surface rust on auto sheet-metal and preparing it for farther processing. In this case painting it with POR-15 I've only used it for the past 15 years or so. I do strongly agree that with any chemical product - one is always wise to read and follow the manufactures directions. So I support your advice. For that matter my Supplier of Automotive Paints and Supplies - called and talked to the people at POR-15 before the Supplier started carrying the product, to find out exactly what could or could not be used with it. That was at least 15 years ago... when people actually answered their phones. The owner of the Supply business happens to be one of the best Auto Body & Paint men I know - he has been restoring cars for 40 or more years. So he has lots of hands on experience with automotive chemicals and modern paints etc. Reading POR-15's Directions/Questions/Answers from POR-15 Site: - - - - -Quote - - - - - POR-15 Metal Ready {I guess now called Prep & Ready}. Questions and Answers Is It Always Necessary To Apply Metal-Ready first before using POR-15 Rust Preventative Paint? NO - Metal Ready must be used first before applying POR-15 when: 1. Painting on galvanized metal 2. Painting on aluminum 3. Painting on stainless steel 4. Painting on smooth, polished, or new metal surfaces. - - - - - End Quote - - - - - I'm sure that POR-15's Marine-Clean and Prep & Ready would do just as good a job. Although I don't know what the cost would be. OSPHO is relatively inexpensive. I believe that some Home Depot Stores carry it now as well. Auto Paint & Supply Stores have carried it for decades... OSHPO is commonly used for the situations 1-4 above as well. FWIW, Carl B.

Personally - I think This One Is Very Revealing; http://youtu.be/InJm_s3YXzo

Remove the old undercoating - you never know what's under it to begin with. It can be removed with Mineral Spirits or even Kerosene in a well ventilated area. Soak it down - let it sit a few minutes, then use a Putty Knife and some rags. It is most likely thin to begin with. Once the old undercoating is off - Take OSPHO {a mild solution of phosphoric acid} and a Scotch-Brite pad and scrub it down - usually that will result in removing everything down to clean etched metal. Let the OSPHO work for a few hours, then rinse any excess off - -Then paint the inside of the fender with POR-15. While the fenders are off - do the same thing to the rocker panel where is goes under the fender. Scrub it down with OSHPHO, let it sit for a couple hours - then rinse off any excess. Paint with POR-15. Keep a camera with you and photo document everything... FWIW, Carl B.

Listing ended shows "0" bids. Someone missed a good deal if they needed them for a G-Nose.

GREAT!! I'm doing my happy danceLOL I'll PM you...

I wonder where he found the wheels... Love the original BBS's with the covered lugs..

In that case Motnezuma -if it shows five forward gears - I'd be a buyer!! I've been trying to find one for about 15 years... Carl B.

Hi Fred: I've heard that comment before and in many cases it may be true. I'll add that there is a difference between "Concours" and "Stock" Events and Judging. As someone else mentioned a Concours is a Beauty Contest. I had the pleasure of taking to one of the people that is a Judge at both Pebble Beach and Amelia Island. He is also the owner of one of the Vintage Z's and a huge fan of Mr. K not the mention having a rather impressive private collection of Classic/Collectible and Special Interest cars himself. Judges not knowing what is pure "Stock" or "Original" to any specific car is not at all uncommon at the Best Concurs Events. In fact it is mostly the case. They leave the judging of "Stock" or "Original" to the marque clubs, or the Antique Car Clubs like AACA for the most part. No doubt that at least a couple of recognized experts exist somewhere in the world for almost every car made or mass produced - - but they are not usually available or attending every Concours event. The Judges at the Concours Events - ask the owners about their cars - and for the most part the owners are honest in their responses. It is more the preparation and presentation of the car, plus it's inherent beauty that counts on that day, with those Judges at a Concours Event. On the other hand - it's people like you that have to judge what is "Stock" or "Original" on any specific Z at National Level Z Car Events, or The guys at the National Level Corvette Shows etc.. It's the Judges at the Antique Automobile Club of America that focus on historically correct examples. Take Dan's Banks car - already Judged by the ZCCA and the AACA - to a Concours event - and the Judges at that Concours Event would take the ZCCA's & AACA's word for it being "Stock" or "Original" - then on top of that they would look at preparation and presentation as well as the inherent beauty of the design. So - bottom line - Keep up the good work - down the road many others will depend on your judgment. I do agree that it would be nice if not helpful to have the Z equivalent to the Corvette Back Book. Maybe when you retire again - you can work on that. FWIW, Carl B.

Humm..... When I ordered that Part # 32865-U4100 {5spd. Knob} several years ago - I received C2865-H9300 which are the newer 4spd. knobs... {rounder or larger wood}. You sure that is a 5spd. knob? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Wait a minute - at Post #8 you state "The lenses are polycorbonate". At Post #10 you show the discription that says "Headlamp covers are made of clear plexiglas. So looks like they are plexiglas {PMMA} - - or the person writing the description was just using the wrong generic / trade name? I've seen several of the After-market ones broken, scratched.. and I'm pretty sure they are plexiglas! I've used SuperGlue to put a few back together as well. FWIW, Carl B.

The short ones go in the top of the intake manifold, above the intake ports on the head - 6 of them FWIW, Carl B.

I don't believe that you need the Power Filer....I don't have one - and my Unilite has been on the since around 1978..... I can't speak for the MSD. Some people have trouble with the Tach - when running an MSD. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ThomasMSD.htm I've been running a Mallory ProMaster Coil with the UniLite Distributor... I've never really been convinced that the MSD offered any measurable performance difference on an engine running pump gas {compression lower than 10:1}- when added to an already top quality system - coil, wires, distributor ,plugs and all connections.

Points are a PIA as far as I'm concerned. Some people like dinking with them. In either case I don't believe they offer the best choice. Lots of options for ignition. 1) Convert your "Points Type" distributor to optical or magnetic triggering 2) Use a 280ZX Electronic Distributor 3) Use a Mallory UniLite Distributor 4) Convert to a crank fire ignition with individual coil packs. You have to adjust the camber if you lower the car to any significant degree, if you want it to handle like a race car - doesn't matter if you are using coil-overs or lowering springs on the stock struts. If you are willing to sacrifice somewhat on steering response and tire wear. Because you'll only be driving it on the street - or you aren't going to drive it many miles per year - you can forgo proper camber angles. On the other hand - the wider the wheels and tires you run the more important proper camber angles become.. I believe there are suppliers that offer camber plates that allow limited adjustment, that do not require extensive modifications to the strut towers. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jonu: Sounds like you are in very good shape all-around for the project you propose. Two years is also a good estimate - - as a lot of that time will be spend deciding on specific parts, or specific suppliers, or specific fabricators etc - - then locating them, then waiting for them to send your stuff of do their work. Offhand - a couple of things you might want to consider: I would suggest that you give some additional thought to using coil-overs. You don't have to modify the shock towers - any more than you would if you lowered the ride height with shorter springs, or shortened struts. The main advantage of coil-overs for your use - is that you have more room under the fenders for larger tires and you have lots of options related to spring rates and shocks. Not to mention an adjustable ride height. Secondly if you haven't already - you can start looking for sources/prices on some "period correct race car parts" now - even if you are not ready to put stuff on the car. Shopping early gives you more time to compare options, prices and suppliers - - plus increases the efficiency of the process when you are working on the car. {also can save a lot of personal frustration} I'll start the List - you and others can add to it: - aluminum radiator & overflow can - remote oil filter hardware and oil cooler - Period correct S/W mechanical oil pressure, water temp, oil temp gauges if you go that way. Or the more modern digital stuff that will have the correct diameter to replace the OEM stuff.. - A good "local" source for A/N fittings and steel braided hose. You most likely won't want to buy all this stuff locally because of higher local prices - - - but it is good to know where you can get a few needed pieces in a hurry. {even if they are a bit more money}. - Rebuilt 5 spd. & what ever matching rear-gears you want. Posi-unit ? good luck,... keep us Posted... Carl

I've never seen "glass" covers. Thought they were all plexi-glass / Lexan.

That link doesn't seem to work - even without the "V". I do see a set of G-Nose Used covers starting at $699.00 Item number: 160784297122 FWIW, Carl B.

Do they want $1000.00 to rebuild it? - - Or do they want $1000.00 to pull it out, rebuild it and re-install it? Most Z Shops will rebuild your 5 spd. for around $550.00 or less if you pull it out and take it to them. Have you tried - double clutching - before going into 5th? ie. Push the clutch in and put the lever out of 4th - let the clutch out - then push the clutch in and slip it into 5th? If that works - you may only need new synchro's - or you may just have a loose nut in there. Can't remember exactly when - but the nut on the Main Shaft used to come lose on the earlier transmissions - they fixed that by having a reverse thread on later models. Someone else may have a better memory as to when that took place... Nonetheless - just because you can't get it into 5th - doesn't mean that it needs a complete overhaul. I'd try to find a good "Z" mechanic in the area.... FWIW, Carl B.

da... Just saw the picture........ never mind... bad reply.. delete

Of course you really would NOT want to do that - unless somehow you have a void below the combustion chambers - so the valves can be pushed Open, with out bending the valve stems! FWIW, Carl B.

Hello Jonu Welcome to the group. It would help if you gave us some idea as to what use you plan to put your 240Z to. Said another way - do you plan to actually "Restore" it, or just "Refresh" it, or do a complete Street Mod. to it. Once you start down any path - it can cost a lot of money to change your mind later. it would also be helpful if we knew how much room you have to work on the car, how well equipped your Tool Box is etc. As well as what time frame you have in mind - is this a one year project or are you thinking of 90 days etc.? If you want the best advice here - you have to provide the best possible information on your end. First Read this thread: It will answer a lot of your initial questions http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?22619-Waking-the-sleeping-beast Second: Read the information about the E31 and E88 L series heads here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/E31andE88Heads.htm If you actually have an E88 off a 260Z, you may not want to use it. Unless you plan extensive modifications for performance. The E88's that came on the 260Z's were "emissions" heads - not performance heads. Third: It would be a lot more useful if you can Post some clear detailed pictures of the car and its component parts. We would have to see things like the fuel lines, overall condition of the engine compartment etc - to really give you sound advice. I've never had to replace the metal fuel lines on a 240Z - but then my Z's have always been in "low rust" States/Area's. If the car spent time in the Great Lakes Area of the Country or in the North East.. you may have major rust problems. Fourth: I can't see any reason to overhaul a non-matching number L24 - for a 240Z. Even if you got an extra for free. You can pick up L28's for very little money - and it costs the same to overhaul either one. I do recommend keeping the original matching number L24 in your 240Z if you want to retain the highest resale value. If you don't care about that - and just want a nice engine with a little more power then start with an L28. Fifth: If the original engine is still in the car - I'd get it running first. Then determine what is actually needed. Might just need a fresh valve job. After you know - you can pull the engine and clean it up /detail it etc. May only need a new valve cover gasket, new pan gasket, front & rear main seals. With any care at all the L24's will easily run 150K miles without a major overhaul. good luck with your project, Carl B.

Also no need to eyebrow the L24 block if it has had a 5mm or larger overbore. FWIW, Carl B.

The rear end was moved rearward about 35 mm with the introduction of the Type B transmission for the 72 Model Year. That would have been around 09/71. Along with that rearward move - a longer drive shaft was used and the rear transverse link {lower link below the rear of the differential} was changed from being straight to curved. Your biggest problem will be with the difference in the position of the shifters - between your Type A 4 spd. and the Type B 5 spd you most likely want to install. The hole in your transmission tunnel is located about 2" farther rearward, than the hole in the transmission tunnels on the 72/73 240Z's. So you either have to modify the hole in your transmission tunnel - by cutting some of the metal out of the front of the hole - or you have to have a modified shifter such that the shift lever comes up though the transmission tunnel farther rearward. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AandBtranny.htm FWIW, Carl B.