2sixTZombii

Hey I know I'm resurrecting an old thread, but I like your speaker box design a lot and am considering making a set for my Z to remount my 6x9, but wanna make sure they'll fit My Z. Could you snap a pic of the passenger side box? I'm wondering the panel is the same on your car since mine is an early 74.

It added the same photo twice for some reason.

Well guys thought I should update. Like I said I decided to let a machine shop extract the busted bolt. He said had three hours into it and charged me 90 bucks, worth it to me. Whole deal was kinda rough but a learning lesson for sure. While it was out I touched up the block, and repainted several items as well. I think it turned out pretty good.I'll attach some pics. Installed new valve stem seals and bought turbo head bolts from courtesy nissan. Those took awhile to get hear which delayed me some but oh well. Also went to omaha and scored a sweet deal on a 81 ZX 5 speed, which is now filled with redline MT90. Got it fully assembled last weekend and started her up last Sunday, runs perfect , better than ever, and that new 5 speed is a dream. Weirdly enough my odometer came back to life, I assume this means she's come out a state of deep depression. And my speedo is now accurate with the new tranny, it used to read 5mph high. This leads me to believe I may have already had a 3.90, also how can tell if I have a limited slip rear end. I noticed that while both wheels will turn independent of one another, they also will both turn the drive shaft when jacked up, and they both become locked in place when the car is in gear. Not sure about that. But here's some motor pics for everybody to check out.

Thanks that saves me a ton of hassle. I might send the C of to scheider for a regrind eventually then, lt isn't worth nearly 500 (cost Of a Cam kit) to cam my motor N/A when I plan eventually go turbo.

Alright I have a question on this topic. While doing valve seals on my N42, one of the rockers scurried away to live a new life where I can't find it. I have my L26 sitting in the corner with 12 rockers still attached. Thinking I couldn't trade out rockers I planned to swap the L26 C cam and all its rockers so they would match. Are you guys saying That I could take one rocker off the L26/E88 to replace the one that ran away from my N42 head? Saving the hassle of pulling the cam from my old motor. I thought It might be a worthwhile swap anyways as the C cam is higher duration, but I doubt its enough that I'd even notice, and this would be simpler. Also if its OK to replace and reuse rockers, does that mean I could have a mild regrind done on my other cam and install it without new rockers?

With internal still in as in , crank pistons exc. Called the machine that did a suzuki crank for a couple years back, asked him how much,he 60-100 depending how bad it gets, turns out he's a Z guy, said his son owns two 240zs, and he's worked on a ton of L motors. I think thats a sign, so I'm pulling the motor right now, let someone else handle this before I wreck the block or light the whole car on fire.

How much do you think a bare L28 block weighs with all the internals? I am straight up considering dropping the block off at a machine shop and letting them pull it out.

There's only maybe a 1/4 of an inch left above the deck, can't get a good hold with vice grips. Tried welding a nut on it but my crappy little flux core HF buzzbox isn't really penetrating the bolt, so they break right back off. I'm gonna give an easy out a try, maybe try drilling it then welding a nut on. Last time this happened it was an exhaust stud. I drilled it out and retaped it, that time I got it centered perfect and its held up quite well. I'm just not sure that if I resort to that here if the retaped threads will handle the torque needed for the head bolts. But thats my favorite way of handling this problem, on anything but head or crank bolts.

Well heads off, my chain tool worked awesome, but bolt number 14 broke........ spent all day today today trying to get it out to no avail. The rest came out easy, that one, put a little torque on it and snapped.

Weird thing is when it first happened it was only leaking oil into the #6 cylinder, but no white smoke. It still pulled good compression numbers, so I was thinking valve seals.but then I tried to start it and number #6 hydrolocked, I pull that plug cranked it over and shot coolant and oil everywhere. Won't know to much till the heads off, so I better get to work!

Alright so since the last I posted up here, I blew the L26, road tripped 5 hours to pick up an L28 load it into the lidless trunk of an oldsmobile and drive it back. Then I stripped it down did several new gaskets, and painted it. Threw it in the Z with DGVs and after a month of fighting with them, bought a rebuilt set of round tops, ups broke those , so after a huge debacle with them repaired them and installed them. It ran awesome but kept dying randomly, seemingly because of a gas tank issue. Dropped it had it hot tanked again, and sealed it with red kote. I proceeded to put about 400 miles of awesome daily fun on the odometer in a space of about 2 and half weeks . Blew a coolant line, overheated her, and blew the head gasket. My recently dead temp gauge helped facilitate that. Sooooooo I'm off work till the 6th, my head gasket kit is waiting, and my chain wedge will arrive tomorrow in the mail. Anyone have some especially good advice? Tips or good write ups to read? I've done a ton of searching and have read some really good stuff, but figured an update was in order regardless, and extra advice never hurts. Here's a recent pic of my baby, and a shot of how I got my engine home.

Oh no I swapped an L28 into my 260z, but kept it carbed for simplicity sake. So I had a bunch of FI stuff to get rid of. My car has a heat shield, and round top SUs :-)

Merry Christmas to who wants this junk, alt. Has been tested as good.

I took this photo in January. If you can't read it, it say 1.72 1.98 for zero ethanol. It actually got down to 1.68.

That is so cool, I hought about trying to build something like this but with seat belts for when I did need an extra seat, it would be horribly uncomfortable but with seatbelts it would pass around here, and would come in handy when needed.

This is funny, I just bought on of those advance style lights too. I spent a week trying to figure out whether or not I installed the dizzy correctly. Put the light it to see where timing was actually found it to 20 degrees advanced at idle with room for adjustment either way, to me at least confirming I have the dizzy drive gear in right. Then it slid of my front fender to be viciously attacked by my fan blade :'-( in anycase it still works great and I'm very glad I bought mine.

Also there is this if you only want one side http://www.c2cfabrication.com/store/1970-74-datsun-240z-coupe-models-complete-front-floor-pan-lh/ I used these, the thickness was good the fit was terrible along the trans tunnel, but it looks identical to any other replacement pan I've seen, so I think the fit is always terrible till you beat the crap out of it, regardless of brand.

How much you need? I have the front half left over from mine.

I lost a great vintage craftsman rachet out in a Rx7 a couple months back. When I came back to find it, the whole car was gone. I have what looks to be a very lightly used valeo that came with my new motor for sale. I would have used it but I had already bought a centerforce.

Its really easy to disconnect from the coil, I can do that first.

Yes the rotor was definitely installed. Although I have done that before. My car has always had points in my ownership. It's supposed to have had electronic factory, but its an early 260, so who knows. So it wouldn't be the old module interfering, the only other wire is the tach wire. I had autozone test the module, and passed three times. I'll run some tests tomorrow.

OK so I just typed a two paragraphs explaining how I got here, then chrome reloaded for no aparrent reason. One thing I don't like about this new format, is that vBulletin used to saved your stuff as you typed it and could recover it should your browser drop. But moving on. Car started running like crap, was trying to figure out why, somewhere along the way spun a rod, threw in a L28. New motor came with a electronic dizzy, which I intended to use but for first start up I used my points unit, since I knew that would at least start my old L26. Now that I had confirmed it ran, I installed the 280 dizzy. Attached the HEI to a grounded spot. Ran ON 12+ and start 12+ to the + side of the coil and the + coil to B on the module. - on the coil runs to C on the module. Red from the dizzy runs to W on the module, and green runs to G. The module tested good at the parts store. The cap is new, the coil is a good Mallory. Sooo what gives? The coil isn't even sparking. Could the dizzy really be that fried? It looked good when I inspected it. Does anybody know a way to test the dizzy?

I like the software itself alot, but I agree the brown is kinda bringing me down, but if we make it the blue and white like before it'll look too much like Hybridz.

After some work it looked like the back carb was running rich,I tried a few things than took it for a test drive, coming up my street on my way back home, right before a shift at about 4k the linkage on one carb came apart, not sure how this caused it but while limping it back home not sure yet why it running so goofy(I was a block away) a rod started knocking. I had a friend who used to be a machinist come over and give it a listen and he said rod knocking or possibly broken piston skirt..... So with winter fast aproaching I am now looking at motor swap, or rebuild. For the record, I tried resetting float levels, different jets, different floats entirely, I've both these carbs off and open abput tens in the last week, I'm sure with a little time I could figure these DGVs but I'm done with them, if I gave up sooner and bought some SUs I wouldn't be here, and I hate these DGVs they belong on my brthers subaru, not a Z

Figured out that the vacum advance is indeed supposed to have no vacum at idle, so that was a mistake, reconnected it where it goes, even tried disconnecting it all together, made no difference. I put my timing light, the notch on the pulley was at the 20 degree mark, at 700 rpm. I took it out to an empty parking lot, and advancing the timing a little at time, doing a lap in the parkng lot after each adjustment, then dud the same retarding it. And while the car ran different during each setting, the base problem stayed the same. It runs good if I'm accelerating at all, but if I hold it at one speed, it runs like crap, in any gear or speed. I tried adjusting the idle screws, also to no avail. I suspect the weber DGVs are the issye again. I hate these carbs.