2sixTZombii

Wow, by the time anybody gets done reading that book, I'll have figured this out on my own. Oh well

I'll start off by explaining that my clutch is still mostly fubar, but after bleeding it again, and readjusting the pedal she is perfectly drivable again, so long as I take it kinda easy. My Z has always(since I got it running) idled what I've gathered to be kinda high about 1050 or so, it doesn't drop much more than even that with idle screws backed out all the way. But it gets so crappy below 1000 that I keep it right there. At idle its alway had an ocassional miss or pop, when running parked it will alway leave black flecks on the ground directly behind the tailpipe and when I let off the gas it smells like gas and kinda ****ty. All that aside it gets decent MPG and seems to have plenty of power, so for I wasn't too concerned. In some ways it sounds like its running rich, but it felt like it ran lean, seems to have a little power with the choke a 1/4 closed, an obvious sign if being jetted to small. When I first swapped these carbs on I replaced a needle and seat but until tonight hadn't pulled off the air cleaners since I started driving it. I've been having a weird random every couple months fuel system issue where the car starts starving for fuel unltil I disconnect and reconnect the in on the pump. Then I'm fine for two more months. Well it did it three times in one day the other day, then undoing the fuel line wouldn't help and it seemed as though the fuel was barely moving through the clear filter. I was on a back road in a rain storm in Nebraska when this happened, so I pulled out my emergency puralator pump and ghetto hooked it up under the hood, and it ran fine then at first then started running ****ty, but I was fine to drive home. Iwas pretty sure my fuel pump(the same one that was in while it sat 14 years) was my issue, so the purolator ghetto as my back road install was should have cured all my issues, but it ran really crapping and missed like hell the whole way home. Well I tried alot of things, and then just bought a vacum/fuel pressure gauge. And found that with my puralator I had 5 PSI to my carbs, which is great, and with the old pump I had a shaky 1.9 PSI. So it finally hit to pop of the air cleaners now knowing that they were getting fuel. And sure enough, the secondary on the back carb was full of gas leaking past the needle. So I changed out the needle and seat with a good back up and fired her up, she was running great butter smooth idle but now I'm idling at 750, but it sounds perfect, no missing no popping. No black flecks on the driveway or gassy smell, pulled strong, cruised smooth, ran better than ever. Decided for kicks to see what my vacum pressure was pulled the vacum advance off the dizzy and hooked it up to the gauge, nothing, pulled the line of the gauge car didn't even stutter, felt it and out of this line( the one at the base of the carb had vacum, I don't think the fitting was ever drilled out. So I hooked the line up to a good vacum source and for what is likely the first time since the 90s hooked the vacum advance to a vacum source. Ran a little different, figured well we set the timing(by ear) with no working advance, makung it needs tweaked, so I tweaked it by ear, and back to a perfect idle took it for a spin and under load its pulling hard, and feels great, but I start cruising at one speed and it starts running ****ty and feeling really stumbly unless I get on it, then its great. Pull in the driveway were idling weird as hell at 950-1100, and now theres popping and missing. Thsi is with or without the vacum advance connected now, no difference. My only theory is that because how long it sat when the dizzy advaced the vacum advance weight didn't return, making it really run weird I until get on the gas and which I believe is when its suppossed to advance anyway. Not sure how to fix this or even tell if this is indeed it, but I'm pretty confused, and I hope I can get it to run that smooth again.

Alright for anyone who may find this while searching. According to the 1974 Owners manual tge manual tranny takes 1.5 Liters, or 3 1/8th us pts. Which comes to about 1.58 quarts. Meaning that yes two 1 quart bottles will be plently.Thanks Zed Head!

Thanks. I was calling it a clutch sleeve cause thats what it said on the part box from nissan, I've always heard it as a throwout bearing collar before but wanted to to be precise about the exact thing I had. Since, he bought this to go with this clutch kit, I would assume its correct I'll have to run PNs to be sure. I'll have to see if I can download an owners manual, as it seems to have some info left out of the FSM, my tablet and computer both died the same week so I have to redownload a bunch of that crap.

Also how many quarts do I need? 2 or 3, I'm getting mixed results searching.

Figured I'd try here before posting another thread. Does anybody know if the clutch sleeve for the 260z is the same as the 240? Or the throwout bearing itself? Turns out it didn't come with a throwout bearing, but instead a new clutch sleeve, it came with PN 30501-1C104. In anu case I got a brand new centerforce clutch kit for my car for 125 to my door, its here and indeed brand new.:-)

Wow, what a nice clean Z! That looks like it would just be a nice tight car to drive. Something, kinda rare for z cars, alot look nice but have ratty interiors, filthy engine bays, strange noises, don't get me wrong, I love my loud, scary, dirty Z, but its been heavily abused like most Zs, this car just looks well taken care of. BTW what front spoiler do you run? Looks good.

Welcome! Good luck with your Z, its Cool to see a Zap edition.

Thts what I seem to find as well. I was ready to try the swepco mix, but you can't buy it quarts, making it rather spendy. And I was scared of trying anything that isn't 100% proven on this tranny as it already seems to have issues. So I think I'll get the redline for now. Now I need a diff mount.

I've been watching it for awhile, it was on ebay. A guy was selling a few things for a 240z he was going to restore, this was one of the things he bought and never used. I was the only one that bid at the end of auction, so I got it for his reserve price. Pretty happy about, now I'm gonna order some gear oil, and get ready to drop my trans, wish I had the cash to swap it to a five speed as well.

Well no replys but.... I scored a brand new centerforce clutch kit with throwout bearing tonight for 100 bucks plus shipping, so I'm pretty happy.

When I started on my the biggest issue was the weber dgvs I rebuilt them both twice and tried everything to make it run right, I couldn't figure out a single thing wrong with them, in the end I decided they were likely possessed by the devil and replaced them with a different set of DGVs which run great, these ones were easy to dial in too. So there not bad carbs just by being DGVs, but there seems to be a point when they are not worth messing with anymore, and DGVs seem especially prone to demonic possepossession. I wouldn't waste too much time fighting with them, if you think there the issue.

I noticed that my clutch was starting to slip awhile back and it's been getting worse, well tonight on my way to work as I was merging onto the interstate, I shift into third at about 4k and it stayed right at 4k, then bounced up to about 4700, the car barely accelerating, let off the gas and the clutch grabs and it was a pita the rest of the way into work, but I was gentle and got to work and then back home again. This is wierd because I never really felt like it released all the way either now this. Also lately there has a ton of rattle going up hills under loads, like when you in the wrong gear for the speed your going. So I really don't if its the clutch itself, the pressure plate, or maybe the throwout bearing, but in any case it's for a clutch kit. Exedy can be had for 120 to my door, which I believe comes with everything I really need, which isn't bad. I saw a new used centerforce stage 1 on ebay that I think could be had reasonably, but not sure if its rght for a 260z, its listed as correct on the centerforce site for early 260s, but its hard to be sure wth a 260z. But now I'm reading bad stuff on Hybridz about centerforce stuff. What I wonder is first, is there anything else I'll need while in there, as it is I am figuring full clutch kit, and a tranny oil change, but am I missing something key? I hear about some weird about throwout collar differences. Is a stage one centerforce really any better than a OEM exedy? Or any other decent clutch? Or is the stage 1 worth it? I figure when/ I get my mild turbo/5 speed I could reuse a the centerforce, but only if its worth it. So any answers, warnings, or advice, would be great! Thanks.

I just did the Kia sportage door seals and they worked awesome. Mine were from a 96 four door, and cost me four bucks a peice. I read somewhere, I think on Hybridz that yu can use the hatch seal out of a second gen integra, which I got from a local yard and am indeed using. It works better than the worn out stock seal did, and seems to keep it dry inside and the hatch still closes fine, but the fit isn't really right, so it functions OK but looks wierd as hell, and isn't a permanent solution, but a decent temp one. If you have the available cash I would go with a repro on the hatch seals and the kia door seals.

Bottom line for me. It's the funnest car I've ever sat in, I literally look for for excuses to go places. The drive anywhere went from drab and boring to fun as hell. And it wouldn't be half as much fun if I didn't enjoy it everyday. The looks you'll get, everybody always talking to you about it, asking to buy it, the way it handles, the way it sounds, I couldn't ever daily a normal car now. You give up alot of modern comfort, but you make a good trade in my opinion. I wouldn't let all the fuss and long winded posts like mine, that come from this kinda thread scare you. At the end of the day it'll be a car in everyway you need it to be, and it'll be alot more as well. If when you test drive it, it fits and its comfy for you, and you like the way it feels, and think you can handle at least the little stuff it throws at you, then I would do it. It's not for some it's definitely for me, and might be for you.

I woke my Z from a 14 year nap and it was basically a parts car when I got her home. That was last October, after months of repair work I've been daily driving it since june, and it has yet to strand me(it's gonna do it now that I said that). I couldn't imagine having any other car to daily now, so I think its a great idea personally. Having said that there are a few things to keep in mind. I'm 5‘9 and about 170, I find the interior comfortable, and have plenty of room. My brother is 6‘ and about 325, he looks like he is driving a clown car when he sits in it. It's very small, if your a big guy, definitely sit in one first, with the windows up. Mine sleeps streetside every night, in a bad neighborhood, unless you get one with perfect paint, I wouldn't stress about were its parked, its really in no more danger tham any other car will be in. A/C is something you can fix, or have added, wouldn't let that stop you. It sounds like a back up car won't be an issue, its not like its gonna break that much more than any other used car, so long as you get a decent car. Like everybody else I think your big issue is if you plan to rely on a mechanic for everything. The big stuff yeah thats one thing, but I've found to be alot of little maintenance and tinkering to be done. Not alot that would stop you from getting to work but little things that although require very little mechanical skill to handle, will add up fast at shop rates. Even if you don't possess any mechanical skill, its hands down the easiest car to work on I've ever encountered, and a great one to learn on.

Took all my old brake parts along with some other stuff to a local auto parts store so they could be sent in for cores, which works out nicely as I couldn't bare to just toss 40 year old parts, now they will be rebuilt and return to other z cars.

Round or square port manifold?

In my car the one of the wires to the rheostat was loose, which when fixed, made a few work. Then I had to pull them all out and clean the sockets with contact cleaner, they still work now, but all but my new volt meter are still too dim for my liking.

Also go here XenonS30 and download the manual specific to your year of Z the original FSM is awesome for this kind of stuff.

If none are working, them its likely the dash light dimmer or rheostat, that's what it was on my car that adjusts the dash light brightness. If it's a 70-73 I don't know how the bulbs come out for sure but it's likely the same or similar as the 74-78 I pulled the panel in the center of the dash out where the map light is, pretty easy, four screws. For the first three little gauges I think it's actually easier to drop them down. There are weird straps that hold the gauges in place one little screw on edge of the opening will unhook the strap and allow the gauge to drop down. There black sockets on the back of each gauge that just twist and pull out. And that's the light socket. You can also just reach behind the gauge and pull the socket out that way but with only screw holding it in place I think it's easier to just pull it down. I would test one of the sockets for power before I replaced them though. You should be able to reach the back of the tach from this same area after moving some crap around. I really don't know about the speedo I pulled the vent by the driver door out a crammed my hand threw there but I'm also double jointed. Hope you were able to follow all that I have a 260z which has the same dash as a 280z but the 240 is a little.

Ha! It was bugging so bad I said screw it, went popped the hood and started looking for this "shunt box" and found a gold box under the carbon canister that said Kantoseiki FUSE on it. Pull off and open to find two blown 3 amp fuses replaced them and boom my new voltmeter works awesome! I suppose I'll just tinker more before posting a thread next time. But as my search turned up very little, I will add some pics once the suns up, and include some more info so that this may help a future or kind of turn it into a mini write up.

Alright my Voltmeter has never worked and while my gas gauge did work, it was prone to wild mood swings, which weren't affected by a new sending unit. While going through a parts hoard in sioux falls I bought a 280z voltmeter for five bucks. I tested it that day and it worked perfect. So I just got around to wiring it up tonight. After some research found out went out hooked up the the wiring with just test leads the way I read worked, and the volt meter worked, as did the gas gauge and the gauge light. So wired it all up that way, and tested it again still works perfect. Unhooked the gauge so I could tape up any thing that needed check everything over once more hooked it up and the volt meter didn't work this time, dash light and gas still did though. So I checked the W/R and W wires that usex to lean into the ammeter plug, and that minutes before tested at 12 volts and nothing. Confused and disgruntled I checked all the fuses and fusible links.and all checked good. I went in to research and the only explanation my research led me to was the ammeter shunt which I simply can't find a picture of and I have no clue where it is. So if someone could help me with or offer any other idea/reason why those wires suddenly lost power that would great. Wanna get this wrapped up tomorrow.

Didn't end up changing oil just yet, I didn't lose barely any when I pulled the drive shaft, possibly because it was jacked up so high in the rear possibly because it already low, not really sure. Swepco 201 huh? Is 201 the weight? And what ratio did you mix it? Thanks for the info.

I never updated this but a shortly after starting this thread I called around to all the parts stores and as it turned out the local independent parts store had the best price for moog and could get them in the next day. I pulled the drive shift replaced the u joints and got back in, easy job actually, only bad part was I filleted my arm and caused a leak at the glass pack, but it's just as well, my arms about healed and I needed to replace that glass pack anyway. Car is 100% nicer to drive, still a noise on second, but It's not a huge deal. I want to swap to a five speed in the near future anyway.