2sixTZombii

I read the write up on alantic Z for doing the trans oil. He says he ordered two quarts but also said the tranny takes 2.5 which confused me. It if takes 2.5 wouldn't I need to buy three quarts? Also actually just finally realized that Blue is the guy in almost all the alantic z car tech tips. I am surprised it took me so long considering the car in his sig pic is the car in the tech tips. I have used that page as a guide for so many things on my z it's truly crazy.

I at first was just gonna get valvoline or whatever gear oil in the trans as I plan to swap in a 5 speed later down the line anyway. But valvoline was nearly 16 bucks a quart, and there's no point redoing it if I just buy crap anyway. I can order redline in for about 15 bucks a quart. Which everyone says is great. But I also read that pennzoil sychromesh is great for problems like mine. Than also read it may eat the trannys insides overtime?!? Sycromesh can be had cheap locally so if that will work well, great but if it eats my trans than I'll go with the redline.

Alright, last night, got a wild hair at about 10:00 and decided to try adjusting my clutch pedal, I didn't have very high hopes but figured I'd try something simple(and free) before gashing my wallet open to bleed money all over my car again. The first thing we fixed on this beast was the clutch master, in a dark cramped dirt floor garage. And I guess I hadn't really thought about it but we likely did a crappy job of adjusting then considering the circumstances. Started it up, pushed the clutch all the way in, and ran the shifter through all the gears. Before it felt like my shifter was connected to an 80 pound weight, and reverse was a total mess to shift into. Now it felt like it was connected to a stick of butter, and no gear including reverse made any noise. I took for a spin and felt worlds better, much much less shifting noise, and no stiffness or fight from the gear lever on shifting like before. It makes a slight chirp into second and fourth but it's mild now, and only when moving. I think maybe the fourth and second sychros are weak(possibly from inproper clutch release). I am hoping that fresh trans oil will cure this.

the brass bushing were installed last week so there very new yet. it makes no noise once in gear, only on shifting. I checked the u joints and there worn but not enough to warrant real concern. I actually noticed I had a low tire which I think was what caused some of what I heard today. but I'm starting to think I need a new clutch, ugh don't wanna drop my tranny.

I haven't been on any Z forums lately, because for the most part google has not failed me much lately. a couple weeks ago I noticed a metallic noise when going into gear, my brother thought it was a u joint, and did sound about right so I googled it and searched a few forums and kept seeing stuff about the 280 u joints not being intended to be replaced and needing to press them out, use some other method to remove them. Then found threads where talked about replacing their 240z u joints like it was just a normal u joint job and found a write up on biopatient where he just pulled the c clips and drove it apart, then installed the new ones. this would lead me to beleive that the 280 and 240 u joints are different, now heres the issue, I have an early 260z So I'm not sure that leaves me, ore what the situation is. and while taking a friend to a to a doctors apointment today it started making all sorts of bad noise back there when taking off, and a weird metallic slapping while deaccelerating, I think its totally toast and I'm almost sure its a u joint now. Tranny Noise Now for the noise from the tranny. when shifting from 1-2 it makes a kind of nasty chirp noise that gets worse the higher RPM I'm at. and shifting to third it only makes the noise at high RPM shifts but it makes it again when going to fourth. and worst when shifting to reverse. now heres the thing sometimes when I haven't driven for several hours and its a cooler day it makes no noise no matter the RPM and shifts feel perfect, until I've been driving for about 20 minutes and then its back to making the noise. So when the tranny is at its coolest it feels great, but when its warm it makes a bad noise. I wondered if maybe when its warmed up the trans oil thins out to the point where it can't properly lubricate? I also thought maybe my clutch is getting weak. changing the gear would be good idea either way, but if I need to drop the trans to do the clutch It might be better to wait till thats done to do the gear oil. for the record the shifter bushings are brand new brass items.

I used the 260/280 horn on the 240 wheel I put it my car, it required making a little mount bracket and was overall a horrible experience where I convinced all my neighbors that I'm a psycho who honks at everyone that drives by, but it works great now.

Yeah sounds like your car had a rough go, I think my engines been out before because it's painted gold acording to the lore that followed the car it's was rebuilt in the eighties when much else was done to her. She pulls really hard through all the gears, for a car with 90k that sat for 14 years, so I believe it, I would to crack mine open with a real Z guy on hand and see if it's been warmed up.

It's funny that you say that, as it's something I find myself saying alot when working on mine. Is that cam still nice? I beleive I have stock E30 cam in mine and wouldn't mind something stouter.

Yeah if I was gonna throw more money at it I would get the clean vintage rubber windshield seal, as it is it sounds like the MSA one is decent for the cost difference.

Called my local auto glass shop to ask how much installing a used one would be, they 125 to install a used windshield. But tuen he checked on new and said he could install a brand new windshield for 180 plus tax. Figure 30 bucks in gas to drive to omaha, even if thewindshield was 30 bucks its cheaper to go new. I 'm gonna need to get a new seal cause he can't order that just need to find where get the best quality repro seal.

That seems to mean there the same. I would have assumed but there have different seals acording to the black dragon catalog, so I really wasn't sure. I'll post a pic of my current windshield later its awful.

I found my first/only lead on a local windshield its in omaha and its in a 280z 2+2, I have a regular 260z two seat coupe. Are the windshields the same?

Not exactly hot items but I'll end pitching them otherwise. My old booster. The booster was bad, but kinda functioned, could likely be rebuilt. And I have one original tokico wheel cylinder it needs rebuilt but if your restoring a car and want an original for some reason you can have it. I also have a rusted out cowl panel if anybody wants it for some reason. Its junk but, I figured before I pitched it.

Sounds nice, I really think the twice pipes are the way to go for a good classic sound, I hate the fart can sound, but love the way the an inline six sounds.

I had my brother sit on the fender, and used a wood clamp as necessary.... worked well.

Maybe, I considered trying to source an L28 and build it while I drive the L26, or even a stock turbo motor. More than anything this was mostly because I'm curious about this head and how it might function for me, or anyone really. I fear the owner may want a whole engine price for just the head, So I'm not sure if its even an option, but I will try to score cheap rear disc brackets from this car.

OK, I know for what ever reason the MN47 head is very controversial subject in the Z community. I know of a 81 Maxima being parted put in my town. And I plan to do a mild warm up of my L26 in my near future. rebuilt SUs, electronic ignition, exhaust, cam and a mildly ported head, is kind of the basic plan I'm thinking right now. something that'll be a bit quicker but can still be driven every day, that plan could very likely change fast, but we'll have to see. I searched a ton about it last night, and I found everything from its awful to it's the best L series head availible stock. I doubt either are true. We have a very old very reputable head shop here in town where Im sure I could take it and have some simple work done, as necessary. I plan to use the stock L6 block without even pulling it. So what I want to know is, could I use this on my car and have a good solid performance mod out of it? I certainly don't mind running 91 strictly, it's actually what I run now anyway, but will I end up with too much compression for a daily driven engine? I've heard its good for an L24 but bad for an L28 what about my L26? I really can't find very much solid info about it, and was hoping some people who actually have run one might be able to offer advice, or at least some people that really know these engines. As I said I plan to daily this car, I don't want godawful MPGs but I don't expect anything too great either. I want some more power but don't want to set the world on fire. I am willing to have work done to the head if it fits my bill well.Mostly just want a quick daily driver.

I plan to have a local build a twice pipe system under my car. I want something unique, thats got a nice throaty agressive sound. I was wondering if anyone has tried out a using chambered exhaust, especially if someone used it with twice pipes, but either way how it would sound with the inline six, I love what it sounds like with V8s but there a different animal. I heard it on a flathead straight six in a studebaker it sounded great but I'm curious if anyone here has tried or knows a reason it wouldn't sound nice.

Love the sound of your Z, I'll be curious what you end using and how it sounds. I plan to have a shop here in town build me a custom exhaust system in a couple months, and trying to gather info.

Alright so I do need to be concerned. What about when you hit your horn? Does a relay click then? I actually wasn't getting proper power to, where when converting to a internally regulated alternator the sense post is supposed to hook up. I suspected the amp gauge to be the culprit but it could linked this clicking relay.

Alright so when I drove my datsun with bad(really bad) brakes when I put the brake pedal down all sorts of clicking noises came from under the passenger side of the dash, like a relay only really fast. But now that I fixed the brakes that doesn't happen anymore. But when the key is in the "run" position, and while it is running, there is a relay click sound every ten seconds, under the dash on the passenger side, it sounds like its coming from this cluster of relays. I also hear a relay click every time I hit the horn. My question is, do all 260zs make this many relay cluck sounds or is there something wrong? If its normal, then fine but if its not, then WTH?

Redid the master and booster yesterday. Finally it has brakes, moreover all the systems that I needed restored to properly drive are now functional. The suspension could certainly still use some more work but it's as good as most used cars. I took her for a little spin, and boy was it fun, I have driven it several times now but I could actually count on it this time, and I could actually drive it, drive it. Now I just need to do the floor pans, and the welder has me booked for the 5-6 of july to get it done.

Rossiz, you have a PM. I can't I've ever helped you but as I start replacing things I'll have things to list here.

I asked him too for the same reason. He told me 50 a switch.

Hey I found this ad and asked if the red car had solid seat supports, he said they didn't as the car had rusty pans, I talked to him tonight and he said he's gonna just scrap them soon as he's getting tons of bogus calls and no real buyers. He said he's willing to sell parts and I beleive even ship on some items not sure. I can see a perfect console, dash, nice door panels and many othet good items that all need to be saved so I figured I'd post it here 1972-73 datsun 240z part cars