2sixTZombii

Rebuilt(not working) carb side has three sooty plugs, good side has three mediocre dark brown plugs. Replaced them all 4 times. The first time I rebuilt it I kind of just cleaned it and slapped in some new parts, second took everything apart and thrpughly cleaned and checked every passage or jet. When it runs you can here what almost sounds like an vacum leak inside the carb, kinda makes a slurping sound. I checked the base again today and found nothing suspicious. I saw a couple rebuildable DGVs on ebay for around 50-60 I am thinking of getting one and rejetting it to match my good carb. But I really can't figure how mine could just be shot, this has a 280 hood sans vents so it sat for 12 years with carb open to the elements(albeit with an air cleaner) but I can't see how that could of caused permanent damage. I thought about rebuilding the other carb, just to see, but I just see how any way that could be the issue.

Need to lower mine as well, was considering chopping springs.

I thought vacuum leak too, but it can't be unless its in the actual carb body, which I'm wonder if its actually cracked. The problem followed the carb from one end of the motor to the other and it has new base gaskets on both carbs. If it followed that carb from one end of the motor to the other, then it can't be a leak anywhere below the carb base. A couple other strange things to note, it makes a Strange whooshing noise. And when I spray gas or carb cleaner down where the emulsion tubes are visible its bogs down and almost dies, but on the good carb it picks up when I do the same thing.

I have been fighting the same problem for awhile now. One carb needs choke to run, the othef does not. So I rebuilt, same problem, so I swapped carb from one side to the other, follows the carb, swapped tops from one carb to the other, stays with carb body, doesn't follow the top. Pulled rebuilt again much much more throughly, eun way better, still needs choke on thay carb. I did so much adjusting that my head hurts, so thats not it. I can actually see fuel coming out on this one so if anything its running rich, but needs choke. The other carb hasn't been rebuilt so I was maybe gonna try that, but can't see how it could be the problem. I am on a low budget and afford new carbs, used yes, but not new, I am considering buying the four barrel manifold on ebay but really want to keep duels. I am willing to just buy another weber used and rejett/rebuild but I can't tell whats wrong with this one, nothing as far I can tell, but I've narrowed it down to almost having to be something in the bottom of this carb. Anybody have any clue, these worked fine back in the 90's before it sat so WTH???

Is this for frontt or back?

I might be a player on this one, getting sick of fighting with my carbs, and wouldn't mind the ease of a four barrel. What made you choose a single two barrel?

Lowering springs with coil sleeves? How spendy was that and hows it handle? Stock ride height just looks so awful, and I need to do something, was considering cuttinv my springs, but I know thats the wrong way. Edit: Is that the type of thing your talking about?Racing Coil Over coilover Fit Datsun 260z 280z 74 78 Adjustable lowering Springs | eBay

I was checking out this site last night Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Catalogue - Fiberglass & Steel Not sure how reputable they are, but then there is of course the Z store but I'm sure you've been there already. How'd you lower it? Did you use lowering springs or chopped stock springs?

I would love that entire setup hanging off my engine. I have DGVs anyways, so yours wouldn't work. They look really cool woth triples though.

I was browsing ebay and spotted a parts weber dgv for really cheap I was thinking of picking up. And I noticed it had a finned redline air cleaner here is the link Redline 32 36 Weber Carburetor | eBay This thing looks really cool, I may buy this just for the air cleaner box. I've never seen this style before, and now I want a pair for my DGVs. If anyone has one pf these laying around, or knows where I could find them, comment or PM me. Or if you even remember them and may know when they came out that would be cool. I couldn't find anything on google either.

Me and my brother were actually considering this swap for my Z but I decided I wanted to keep the straight six for simplicitys sake. It's actually a clean swap, even if the rest of the rest of the car is thrashed. I think its alot better than rotting in a scrap yard, and there having fun. I would be pissed if they trashed a nice clean car, but that's certainly not the case, and now the car will likely continue to life on and possibly get bought and fixed up.

Welll a friend with a lot more experience told me to try puting some grease on thd cam lobe I suspect and see if the noise goes away. And it did. So I think for now I need to fix the oiling issue and see if the cam makes it. The cam lobe looked the same as the others and it was never even actually ran while making the noise, so I hope it'll be OK. I think the oiling tube is toast and saw this on ebay, any opinions?Datsun 240Z 260z 280z Camshaft Oil Spray Bar | eBay Would the stock bar be putting out a good spray under cranking? When cranking it looked as though there almost mothing coming out, and I'm wondering if its blocked, the soldering looks damaged and it was very bent from becoming unbolted.

Will a self oiling cam, say out of a ZX just bolt in my head be self oiling without any extra work? That is with the matching rockers of course. And what year did the exhaust ports change?

Testing

Well was out tuning a carb that I just finished rebuilding, and went to sratt it after setting the float levels. When as it was cranking I heard this terrible squeak from my back cylinder area right under the valve cover. So I turned the key and just hit the starter button, and there is a steady squeak from undef the valve cover on the very back cylinder, just a quick squeak, kind of a 1,2,3,4,5,squeak,1,2,3 if you get what I mean. It sounded topside just the valve cover, so I pulled the cover, and saw that the oiler tube is completely unbolted(bolt was still attached) on one side, and appears to be cracked. It was dark so I'm not sure yet but I'm suspecting either the cam itself, or a cam bearing. Valves don't usually squeak. If any of you datsun guys have a better idea that would be great. If I do swap cams, could I use a later self oiling cam with my stock journals, and eliminate the oiler tube? If I use a later head I can keep carbs right? I suppose I might need a different exhaust manifold if I use a later head. I would most like to have be it just a cam swap or something else simple to do, any good input on the matter? Any advice when dealing with the head or cams on these cars?

Called the dude and he said he wants 600 for the entire engine and doesn't want to seperate it. I honestly am more interested in just the head now I think there is something bad in mine, and it sounds like an upgrade even with carbs.

Just getting sick of duel carbs, but I think I'm finally close to having them right. Sounds like the kind of thing to have on the shelf though. If I did decide to do it I could just swap cams, as I think mine has a hot cam in it already.

Would I need to swap heads to use the fuel injection system off this car? If so would I lose/gain any performance by swapping heads and fuel system?

My car has earlier style points on it, not sure why, might be an early production thing or just POs. I could ask him about the trans, it used to put around this area but now its being parted, I wonder why.

There is an 83 maxima auto in craigslist here in town, being parted out. I was thinking of taking the electronic ignition system, but wasn't sure if it would work easily. Also I'm redoing my back brakes right nd was wondering if they are the same or at least a direct swap when there drums or if they are discs are they a direct swap? Are there any other parts off this that I should go after. Mine is a 260z 4 speed. Are the springs the same? Thought about grabbing them so I can cut a set, and have a back up set incase it's too low.

Am I too understand that the sense wire originally leads from the alternator N side of the plug through a yellow wire to the regulator back out the regulator through a white/red wire to the anmeter out the other side of the anmeter to a 12 volt ignition source at the fuse box, as explained at this page Nissan/Datsun Z Car Voltage Regulator Conversion now he says "charge lamp" not anmeter which may mean I'm misunderstanding how it works. Now after the conversion for the internally regulated alternator once you jump (at the regulator plug) jump the white/red wire to the yellow then the S side of the new alternators plug should lead through the yellow wire to the anmeter (or charge lamp if I am misunderstanding) to the 12 volt ignition source at the fuse box, where the new alt gets its sense. Now keep in mind I have an early 260z so my wiring is colored different than most z cars. Alot to follow I know.

I installed a 280zx alt in my 260z, I had it wired up perfect but the "sense" wire had no power going to it, I ran a jumper wire to the battery and I had 14.6-14.8 output. Awesome it works, but I've just been connecting and disconnecting the jumper wire when I go to start it. I heard on most alternators you can run a constant power wire for the sense post but, the factory had it get power there when the key is forward. As I read its through the wire that is supposed to supply sense power that the gauge is run. I don't that much about the gauge right now. I tried running it off of a "run" position power source, but as some power is lost through the switch I now read 15.08. That will work until it's fixed properly,if it's not too high output. Can I run a constant power wire to the sense side of the plug, or will it cause a drain? And is 15.08 too much? Those my main two questions.

I was actually wondering how to determine build date. I have a ten K dixco tach laying around if I could use that as a dwell meter. I'll post a pic of that for you, I think I'll have to thumb through both FSMs tonight and get to adjusting some stuff.

She's a very early 260z so still has points, I had to order points for a 240 tp get the right ones. She has dual DGVs the back one is fully rebuilt the front seems ok for now. Both need adjusted. Does anyone which way does what on the mixture screw of a weber DGV?

Yeah thats kinda where I'm at now. I was getting desperate to get it run right so I started scfewing with things I shouldn't have. Where do you keep your points set at when you have them?