2sixTZombii

First off this is really long but please read, I need some help figuring out whats next. OK so this whole mess started out in october when I first took over the Z fighting and fighting to get it running right it ran decent when it was first brought back from slumber. But I had bad tank issues which soon caused it to not run at all, then that led to a carb rebuild, and no matter what I couldn't get it to run right, run yes but never consistently, could barely make it up the driveway missed like hell and couldn't stay running with the choke on. And fouled back plugs in minutes, and the rest in hours. Seeing as it fouled the back plugs so quick I figured carb adjustment issue. So I started turning little carb screws trying to get it at least a little better, but it had no effect at all. So I got a better look at the points and they were black and green with corrorsion and burning. Finally got the new ones in today, start her up and she fires right up starts out around 1500 rpm then jumps up to between 2500-3000 rpm but one things she is actually running, and no misses, never ran like this before, not right but worlds better, you know when something is different and when its finally fixed even if its still not right. Ao I'm exstatic I know this was it, it was points this whole time. Now when I. Open up the choke idle drops a little but now I've got popping in the exhaust, and a consistent fireball out the exhaust. I set the the points at 0.19, I don't have a timing light and I've never set timing. I'm think either reset the point at a different gap, or maybe I screwed up the carb adjustment when chasing issues. But would that make it idle like this? If you read te whole thing, thank you, I could really use some help figuring out the next step.

Lots of basic running parts to her on the road, but the real gifts would a pair of real vintage bullet racing mirrors, a 240z steering wheel, a 13 ball shift nob, a 240 front bumper, and a set of 260 badges to replace the ones that were stolen. So she's making a fool out of me this year!

That's what I was going to do but it's fubar, I want to install a header and duals in the spring, so maybe I'll throw a bolt there until then anyway.

In my part of Iowa, you can drive anything if it has turn signals and insurance. If I switch to a header it won't matter anymore. I thought about pluging it right at the manifold.

I now see that it leads into the exhaust manifold, and by that token would not effect running, too much but, makes tons of racket.

Eh, I'll probably just wizz off the neighbors until spring anyway, maybe then? I wonder how dual cherry bomb glasspacks would sound coming back from a 6-3-2 header..... could be sweet!

Any video of the cherry bomb for us to sample? Mine is ungodly above 3k, and I need to do something.

Ok so I have the hood popped out in the cold the other day trying to get my car started and after it runs and dies I notice smoke rolling out of this thing just above the intake, its black, rubber, and has a chunk of hose coming out of it it leads to this that leads to more tubes that go into the head. I at the time had no idea what this was but looked it up in the FSM and found it to be the air pump inlet check valve. My has has dual webbers and no smog pump. I got her running decent today and decided to see if this is related to my running issues, I put my finger to it and notice smoke shoots out in rythm with the engine I plug it with my finger and idles drops, and car quiets way down, it had a lot of under hood racket before. I rigg up a bottle cap temp plug and start it up again it seems to be running way better, I can now open the choke without it dying, but something still doesn't seem right, the idle is going up and down. My question is this, what is the proper way to deal with this thing and make my car run right? It's hard to find any info on, and I think it's a key issue so I want to fix it right. Do I just plug it? Do I remove it and then plug the hole? Does it need any sort of breather? How do you experienced guys deal with this? My car had been acting like it had a bad vacum leak and the power brakes felt soft could this be effecting like a bad vacum leak? Thanks Danny.

If I knew someone in the market, I would tell them to jump on it, if I didn't have mine and still wanted a Z car, I would jump all over it. Figure that's about what you'd pay for a 2000 camry, and with what you've done is car could make a decent daily and would be way more fun, and with the ztherapy carbs it would probably even get semi close to as good of mileage. If you decide to keep it, and finish it, or at least wait until spring you'd get much better money.

Reason why I clicked on it was it was inthe recent discussions area somehow.

Looks like a ton of car for the money. Maybe I'm not up on the z car market but 2500 seems a little on the cheap side for all the work into it already. Will make an awesome driver for somebody.

Mm mm, that thing looks pretty sweet. If I had cash to throw any and everywhere I would be after something like that. Looks like to much fun.

I've been having the same internal dilemma but I think I'll likely go the same route but first I need to make sure the wiring itself isn't the problem. Auto zone lists remanned ZX alts for 45 but I don't know if there hitachi or not.

Alternator tested good, so I'm suspecting the VR a little more, its the original Datsun unit that came with the car. I've got it pulled everything looks a little dirty on the bottom but being are soldered connections I don't think it matters as nothing is broken. Inside its pretty clean with a couple dirty areas but all is pretty shiny and nothing looks burnt. What would tip me off to a bad VR? The W/Blk and the W/blu are are soldered as mentioned in the above post, but the black was hanging loose off the VR, and has solder on as if it was soldered to something but broke loose, might be my issue right there. Gonna investigate and see what it was hooked too, anyone know what the the plain black was leading to originally?

WHITE/BLUE soldered to BLACK/WHITE White/black soldered to black/white on the VR, the ground on the back of the alt is gone and destroyed long ago, I mace an independent ground and it fixed nothing. might still be the issue but before I dig any deeper Im gonna go have them tested.

reading 11.64 at the w/r wire on the back post of the alternator, on my way to advance to have it tested.

I've never actually taken any of this system apart and it was working when we first got it running but I think I actually know when whatever blew, blew. The night I installed the gas tank, I was trying to get it running but it was running like crap I replaced the back spark plugs as they had been fouled by the crap in the carb, and it started running better but then I was trying to see if it would finally move under its own power, but not realizing how much of a difference that had made took off in reverse and killed the motor trying to get it stopped, when I tried to start it again the battery was dead and ever since I've had trouble with the charging system, at first I thought it was a dwell but seeing as the battery slowly dies while running I'm suspecting alternator/VR. The car is an ealry 260 but has a plug just like this car's here http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102534-picked-up-an-early-260z/#entry987620 I went to to nico club and downloaded the electrical chapter but it comes up all blurry and impossible to read.

If I do it exactly as this guyy dies in this thread here Picked up an early 260Z - S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z - HybridZ Will it work fine but my fuel pump won't turn off? I think this safety feature has already been eliminated anyways so if its only for safety reasons I honestly don't care. He doesn't appear to anything about the fuel pump issue in that thread.

I'm pretty sure my pump has been wired to run all the time anyway, it turns on the acessory position. It's not even kinda the stock unit. If it is running all the time does it really matter? If so how do I wire in this oil pressure switch. I found a write up on hybrid z, but the site is down for the moment.

It should be mentioned that a PO had hacked wiring in places, including the wires running from the plug to the volt reg, wires black,white/blue, and white/black are cut off and simply gone. Also if someone could clue me in on regapping a volt reg.

Hey just finished doing a major overhaul on my back carb, with how many times the damned thing tried to kill my car I feel like it was more of an exorcism. Got in back on, car runs great let it warm and take it for a spin around the block, out of no where it starts running like crap, then dies, ten will not start back up cause the battery is dead, jump it with my daily same thing happens again before I can get it home, finally just push it, charge up battery all the way, starts right up, runs awesome, get the voltage meter hooked right at start up reading 11.97 couple minutes later, 11.84, rev it up a few times, 11.77 watching it as I rev it, It falls to 11.64 car misses then dies, batery won't start car. So I am pretty sure my alternator or voltage regulator is shot. I'm thinking of rather then spend 40 bucks(I didn't shop around much) on a new voltage regulator, maybe spend 45 and buy a new 280ZX alternator. After searching I found plenty of info on wiring the plug for the 240, and the 280, but I have a 260. I would buy the fancy little plug from motorsports but its for a 240, I couldn't find one on there site for later cars. Does anyone know how to wire it up for a 260, also is the 720 truck alternator a direct bolt in aside from wiring the reg plug? There is an early 80's nissan truck in a local yard. Any help would be great.

One Idea I had was to cut (with dremel) a square shaped channel around the bolt, and drill a large hole leading to it so once the old bolt was gone I could just stick a carrigage bolt with the square shape around the base in the large hole and slide it over with the channel. Sounds a lot of work for a simple problem though. Wish I had a welder.

But I can't get get back there with a grinder because the whole strap is welded in place, and I don't a welder to redo if I break the welds.

Hi, I bought a 240z style bumper for my early 260z, After I got it repainted only did I realize that the 240 brackets didn't line at all. Well I decided to pull the brackets off to figure out a solution, So I went at it and regardless of how WD40 I used or how much I qire wheeled the threads the bolt made it half way and promptly broke. I still have one on one side but on the other they are both fubar. The smaller angled brackets appear to be welded to the bumper itself, and I can't reweld them. I need to remove the old bolts, but see no way to replace them, I have a few ideas but am really lost on how to get them out other than drill them out. Are they welded in place or could I drive them out? I feel like this had to have happened to someone once before. It would appear that once reversed the 240 brackets are close to lined up the right width and with some bending I think that will work, but is the depth anything close to right as far as where the bolt hole will line up? I'm not as concerned with mounting I am with the broken bolt issue.

Well after fiddling with stuff for awhile the switch now with turn them on when I turn it all the way, I'm not gonna bitch. I still don't have dash lights when I flick the switch, I need to figure out which wire it is and I might just rewire the whole damn mess with new connectors.