240Ziggy

LOL! Have to make up losing a bit of power from the AC.

Thanks Dave. This VA unit should do it. This 280Z is going to be a Resto-Mod, it will have a 500HP turbo under the hood so it won't be stock anymore but keeping it to look stock with new modern stuff as possible, you know what I mean. LOL! It would have been nice to use the stock AC but I just don't have the time due to deadline. I will put it aside in the future when I have more time for it. I have no problem fabricating the mounting brackets for the compressor. I just want to make sure that the parts are easily available.

Thanks guys for your feedbacks, it's what I need. I thought this stock 260Z factory unit is doable and if it's going to head ache will scrap the idea. I visited a local store this morning who specializes in modern parts and accessories for old cars. The tech guy advised to scrap the old unit. Not worth messing around with it. So I picked up the full kit of Vintage Air Gen Mini II. Will see if the tech was right, suppose to be easy plug and play except for making my own brackets etc.

Thanks ZH, looks like I'm still missing a few important components. Is it still possible to get these aftermarket?

I'm attempting to install an HVAC system from a 260Z with factory AC to a none AC 280Z. I'm not familiar with the vacuum systems. How does it gets its air from to open close the air ducts and water heater from? I've looked at the fsm but still can't figure it out. Will it work? I've got new compressor and condenser. Anyone done this before? Your help is appreciated. Thanks.

I completely agree. Unfortunately they are not making the inner wheel arch yet. I have contacted them and made request, they are working their best to do most of the parts as possible. I have their floor sets already.

Thanks RacerX. Don't understand why they don't respond to emails. At least say something if the items are back order or for any reason.

I placed an order a month ago with Tabco, got the confirmation order number but they have not shipped the items I ordered. Been emailing them several times with no respond. The toll number 1-800-782-5226 don't work in Canada? Anyone ordering from Tabco have any issues? Can anyone in the US call the number if it still works? Thanks in advance.

Hi Richard, would you happen to have the inner rear bumper mounts for the 240Z? They are behind the rear valance welded on the frame. I need both side. Thanks.

Great score. Congrats!

The physical photos shows obvious early model. Take some sandpaper and clear the vin firewall.

You might luck out being a '69. Is rear glass clear no defrost?

That looks more of an early 71 to 70 240. The tags may have been switched. What is the number from the firewall?

Fully disassembled pieces then batch plate.

I'm slowly assembling things back together after grouping old parts re-plated, one of them is this early wiper motor. It might be an overkill since it is hidden under the cowl, but most importantly, it still works!

Wow. Very nice! Should have had this five years ago. Now they need to make the proper rear valance.

Cost you only 15 bucks to make? Man, i'm also interested to know how you made it.

https://youtu.be/xdjdk6pPRz4

Hey EuroDat, I didn't know what you meant at first and listen to it again. No, that wasn't me sipping cola and burping. ? It's the car from shifting gears. Anyways, the ratlle noise has worsen plus it started to vibrate so what I did this weekend was changed one halfshaf with spares I have at a time test drove it. The clunk is gone but it still vibrated after changing both haft shaft. I was going to change the driveshaft but the two spares I have were both short. Going to order the full u-joints and change all of them and see. Could a worned transmission and diff mount make the vibration as well?

Thanks EuroDat. I will double check the U-joints again. I hope i can narrow it down.

I used pry bars to check all of the u-joints and don't see any sort of play.

I put another diff with new gear oil 80W/90 is all i can find when i did it. Went to get 75W/90 semi-syntetic today at a subaru dealer. Got the car on jacks now looking for the culprit. Removed the tires and rear drums and ran the car on all gears. None that i can see but when i spin the rear axel the diff has some gear drag. Is this normal? Checking my other spares and hard to tell just turning by hand.

I was able to capture the rear diff clunk and that sound of the Wheel Of Fortune. I place my cell phone inside the ashtray just above the trans tunnel. The rear diff clunk starting from 1st gear, then the rattle starts more when the car has been driven for a while, you can hear it as soon as I shift to second, third and a bit on fourth up to 40 mph and goes away. Please let me know any feedback. Thanks. 20190627_154403_clunk.m4a 20190627_154403_rattle1.m4a 20190627_154403_rattle2.m4a

No vibrations. Only a semi-loud metal clunk in the diff that I don't like.

I did check underneath again yesterday for any obstruction. I jacked up the rear wheel and spinning it, the only thing I saw the drum brake fins scraping the dust plate. I cleared that and thought that was it. No, it came came back again after driving home. I will probably jack up the rear wheels again safely, start the car and put it in gears to see if I can detect the noise. Just a little scared doing this way though.