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Great tips. I'll check into the coil wires, etc. this weekend. Thanks!

The Z has a mechanical fuel pump, and I actually replaced it with a new one last night. For clarification, the drop in RPM/power can happen either during idle or on the road at speed. During idle, it can happen when the engine is either hot or cold. I'm liking the HT lead idea. I have reatively new plug wires from a recent tune-up, but that doesn't mean anything. I hope that a break HT lead shielding doesn't mean a jolt to me!

No, the Z still has the stock points distributor. The problem can happen when the car is either hot or cold. I was out and about in the Z today and it didn't miss a lick, so the problem is intermittent.

I'm stumped. I own a '72 240Z, L24 series engine with twin SU's. When at idle, either when the engine is hot or cold, the idle will drop in RPM with a loss of engine power. If I rev the engine past 5000 RPM, this might or might not clear the problem (sometimes with a backfire). The same thing can happen while on the road. The 240Z runs like a hot rod, then at any given moment the RPM drops along with power. With the clutch in, a rev to above 5000 RPM might or might not clear out the problem. Things that I have done recently to remedy the issue, but with no success: * Service the fuel tank with a new liner. * Frequently change out the fuel filter. * Replaced the vacuum lines. * Check SU's damper oil. * Installed new fuel pump. With an backfire when rev'ing the engine, I am now suspecting an ignition issue. Could there be an issue with my distributor. Again, when there is no drop in RPM and power loss, the car runs like a rocket sled. Any suggestion you might have will be helpful. Thanks, Bryan

Greetings. I'm new to the Z world. Just purchased my 1st, a 1972 240Z and it has SU carburetors. The car sat for a couple of years before I purchased it and the floats were stuck with valve open. In the attempt to remove the bowl cover, I buggered up the float. There is a flange off the side of the SU carb that hangs right over the bowl cover. Multiple attempts to turn the lid to get better clearance didn't help, and the tension of the float on the sides of the bowl during this process popped the float right off of its lever arm. A new float will be ordered. So, like, what's the trick? If I have to make multiple adjustments to get the float/fuel level set right, this will be a very difficult process with that flange off the side of the carburetor in the way. If you know the way, please respond. Thanks, Bryan Grand Prairie, Texas