inline6

No-no, I said "My 12/70 (16530) is black. And my 6/71 is orange/yellow."

My VIN is HLS3016530. I will double check my memory. It has been a long time since I put eyes on that switch.

My 12/70 is black. And my 6/71 is orange/yellow. Still a wide range there.

I am thinking there are not many restoration shops that focus on Z's these days. Impatient Creations is doing good quality work. I think they are very expensive. But, they do good work. Looks like they are 30 minutes from Birmingham. https://impatientcreationsinc.com/

Some options to investigate: https://upgarageusa.com/pages/nos-parts-we-have-instock-for-1969-1995-z-cars https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-240z-260z-front-bumper-guard-over-rider-strip-kit-69-72/ https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/front-bumper-over-rider-vertical-strip-set-for-datsun-240z I believe I have a spare set of aftermarket ones as well - I think of decent quality. Let me know if you would like to see some pics of them.

I am about to start on the task of adjusting the profile of my Hitachi SU needles (I have SM needles installed). I read this thread in preparation: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59153-modified-su-carb-needles-for-l28/ @240260280 has detailed knowledge on the subject which is impressive! I wish I had the tools and knowledge to do what he knows should be done. Instead of measuring vacuum, etc. as referenced there, I am thinking about rigging up a camera to record a video of the piston movement under certain real world scenarios. For that recording, I am thinking of putting black marker lines on the piston that equate to the station positions on the needle. For the real world scenarios, I would like to record a series of various part throttle applications. I am hopeful that I can locate a specific range of the needle that will need to be modified. Very generally, I believe I have good AFRs at idle, and cruise (at 50 mph for example), and at wide open throttle. On the other hand, I have lean or very lean conditions at part throttle and during closed throttle deceleration (accompanied by popping in the exhaust). I will be making some more AFR reference runs before I attempt to modify the needles to confirm. But then, I am hoping to record the videos, and remove a miniscule amount of material from the "pick up" needle stations. The segment of the needle I need to modify should be confirmed by reviewing the video. Anyone have additional recommendations or thoughts?

Looks like I never finished this thread. I replaced the front yoke and took the propeller shaft to a local shop for balancing. It was there opinion that the shop that did the shortening of the prop shaft did not balance it. When I went to install the shaft into the transmission, the "slop" (the amount I could push the yoke radially) was a lot. As an estimate from looking, I'd say I could move the yoke in any direction about .020". So, that is about a mm of movement radially. It might have been a bit more than that. So, I decided to replace the bushing that is in the tail shaft of the transmission. Looking back on it, I think the bushing developed wear because of the driveshaft being out of balance for the first 500 or so miles I put on the car. I think that the bushing was sacrificial - meaning made of softer material than the yoke. Anyway, after putting the new bushing in (removal and reinstallation of the transmission was required), the new yoke was tight (no discernable movement at all radially). With everything back together, the vibration that caused me to start this thread is gone!

It is there for both of my cars - 12/70 and 6/71.

I was able to get everything back together on the car yesterday. The new yoke (with a new bushing in the back of the transmission) was a very snug fit. After double checking I torqued everything, I was able to take the car on a test drive. What a big difference! I got up to about 80 on some interstate and the severe vibration, which previously could be felt with a hand on the transmission tunnel, and seen in the blurring rear view mirror, was gone. Now, I can get back to the small list of things that I have to do to finish this car: install inside rear tail light trim panel install front right kick panel clean and glue in tool compartment liners repaint tail light trim panels (for better color match) install NOS glove box hinge/inside panel install rear hatch trim panel repair and install factory radio, or install guts of a new radio in the old radio case

Today, I was able to get the transmission back into the car. Because I am one-handed at the moment, I purchased a transmission jack, and I enlisted the help of a friend. This thing is quite the beast - 1000 lb. capacity and it has two telescoping lifting sections (rods). It cost more than I wanted to spend, but I couldn't force myself to buy a cheap, garbage version. I guess as I get older, I'm going to need more assistance for jobs like this one. So, this is a nice thing to have available. I should be able to finish putting the rest back together and take the car for a test drive tomorrow.

Excel workbook (sheet) is ready to upload to an appropriate section of the resources. Google sheet also has been updated: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Cmnw0F8N7B3VknCzNwGkfN2SGmIHdFJhDjARv3jkxNI/edit?usp=sharing Can someone confirm that you can expand and collapse the groups? You should be able to. Note that the order I have this in, from top to bottom (the sections), follows what I believe to be the best sequence of assembly - for a fully dismantled car.

"Workbook" is a term used to reference a spreadsheet "project" in Microsoft Excel. A spreadsheet is typically a single tab, whereas several tabs (each a spreadsheet) is a workbook. I went looking through my old posts and evidently I indicated that I would update the Google sheet from time to time (I am the author), and I would wait on uploading the Excel version until it was complete. I have not uploaded the Excel version to the resources section yet. I just made a couple of edits to it this week. It seems that I should go ahead with uploading it to the resources section, as it is pretty much as complete as I intend to make it.

yellow chromate hex head bolts (4 on recess in head) M10 X 1.25 - 25mm under head - fully threaded yellow chromate split lock washers - M10 yellow chromate flat washers - 22mm od - 10.5mm id Not comprehensive, but a good start - speadsheet cataloging the hardware on a 240Z: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Cmnw0F8N7B3VknCzNwGkfN2SGmIHdFJhDjARv3jkxNI/edit?usp=sharing The above descriptions are found by looking at the "rear bumper". There is copy of the workbook in the resources section of this website as well. Sorry, I had to edit that significantly!

Nice! What parts did you have done?

Yeah, this "One thing that just came to mind is the oil passageway plug that goes into the front of the block. I remember pulling it out and looking at it but am now only 80%ish sure I reinstalled it." You need to verify a plug is in place.