HSL

And not easy to get hold of a used bcdd in good condition, at least not found anything so far. Could just block it off of course but would like to have it, it's there for a reason..

It was the BCDD that caused that annoying sound, blocked it off and then the sound was gone. So I believe those small cracks in the diaphragm is the reason for this. Is it possible to buy the diaphragm anywhere? Have not been able to source it so far...

So, after some more checking and listening the source to my trouble is the throttle body or the bcdd. According to FSM the bcdd shall not be adjusted, it should be replaced if it fails. Don't find it easily available so guess I will try to disassemble and clean it.

The rpm in the video was a bit high, usually the idle is at 8-900 rpm. I'll try to record a new video and see if I can capture the sound a bit better. Maybe chiming is not the correct word to use but its a bit hard to describe the sound... Coming somewhere from the intake but really difficult to locate so will try with some kind of stethoscope.

Got this strange chiming noise coming from the intake manifold but it only appears after the engine has reached operating temperature. Its only present at idle or when I get off the throttle, once I give a little throttle the noise disappears. Adjusting the idle screw up or down does not make any difference. It does not affect the performance as far as I can tell. So I been thinking that it is vacuum related but have been struggeling with this now for a while without being able to figure ot out. Have done the egr delete, blocked off all parts of itand blocked off the line going to the throttle chamber. I've attached a video, the annoying sound is easy to hear from approx. 20 sec into the video (never mind the rough idle at the end. Got some moisture after washing the car but that does not have anything to do with that sound as it was there before the car was washed.) 1977 280z, stock l28. 20190915_213232.mp4

Really appreciate the offer but I don't need a set anymore. Bought a set of stubs and the guy that sold them to me was nice enough to include the spacers?

Yes, I know its not super critical but better to have the exact dimensions if possible. Would appreciate it if you could give them to me?

Does anyone have the dimensions on the rear wheel bearing spacer, marked "B"? Only dimension (including tolerance) I can find in the FSM is the length. Need to know the I.D and O.D as I need to make a set.

View Advert Parts needed, 280Z stub axles and companion flanges Want to buy a pair of stub axles (27 spline) including companion flanges. Please send a pm or reply if you have a pair in good condition to sell. Advertiser HSL Date 07/31/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z

I've seen that post but I am still not certain where to attach the wire or how it is connected to item 16. I don't have that wire and there is no visible attachment point on item 16... 2019-05-30_15-50-49.pdf

Seems like I am missing the wire for the horn pad so my horn is not working... Where should the wire for the horn pad connect? Its a 77 280z

Have thought about that solution and guess that is the only option I have. According to the FSM, shims can be placed between the body and the hinge to align the hatch but it does not mention any other way of adjusting the hatch..? Not many Harbor freight in Norway so guess I will have to make my own..

I'm trying to align the rear hatch after paint but it seems to be sitting too far in the aft direction. I'm using the tailgate hinge seal cover from Motorsport auto ( http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02o03b03/34-2236) and with that installed it is impossibe to get it to sit correct. Anyone else had this issue? Tried to remove the cover and then it sits better, of course....

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@theguppies, is the 280z dash still on track for delivery mid this year? Not earlier?