HSL

I've been trying to find out what the seal/rubber for the window in the picture is called, maybe it is a part of the regular weatherstrip kit but what is it called? Can someone help me with the correct name for this seal? Also need the same seal for the quarter windows.

I removed the front fenders on my 77 280z and discovered that the seal between the fender and body, just in front of the doors, was dried out and did not do its purpose anymore. I've been searching for a replacement but so far without any luck. Has anyone replaced that seal? And with what?

Update on my problem. It looks like I have found the source of the problem, although I have not been able to drive the car and feel the behaviour of the engine during load due to heavy winter weather. But, after changing the spark plug wires the engine responded much better and no backfire of any kind. I did a recheck of the old wires and it turned out that some of the wires only gave spark every now and then. First time I started working on the engine I just checked for spark on one spark plug, should have checked them all I guess Thanks for all help with my problem Now I can move on and deal with the rust issues. Is the area around the hood hinge on the passenger side a common area for rust? The coolant expansion tank is close to the rusted area but haven't seen rust close to that on other cars...

I will certainly check it! Every thing I can rule out will get me one step closer to solving this mystery

The popping and backfire is still there. But it was worst right after start up and engine ran a bit smoother after a couple of minutes, still it had hesitation when giving throttle. Since most tests I've performed has been ok, I will check once more for unmetered air and I will try another ecu.

Strange thing is that I had good fuel pressure. When I measured the fuel pressure and got appr 20 psi the engine was warm and it was ok when cold. But now the engine was having trouble both starting and running when cold but had 35-40 psi fuel pressure. I have replaced some of the vacuum hoses but will go through the entire system. Is failure of the intake gasket a common problem on the l28?

I've done all the tests, and those listed above are the ones that did not meet the requirements. The rest of the measurements on the AFM are ok, except for the test where I check the flap. And if your theory is correct the AFM should work correctly, I have measured Pin 8 to 6 at 182 oms and Pin 9 to 8 at 101 ohm so should be ok.

I've done some more troubleshooting and now is the problem described in post #1 also occurring when the engine is cold. I have not replaced anything only change is the air temperature, winter is coming to Norway Also a lot of backfiring both through exhaust and afm, especially right after start up. Fuel pressure is good. Can someone tell me if the measurements below are ok (from the EFI bible)? Electrical isn't my strongest side Test #1 - (3b) Air flow meter - resistance #2. Should read - continuity (small resistance.) My test result gave 293 ohms, is that acceptable as small resistance? Test #1 - (5) Air flow meter fuel pump contacts. This test fails. My fuel pump is running all the time, I guess this is the reason for that? But will this error cause other problems? Test #1 - (7) Fuel pump relay circuit. Should read - continuity. My measurement gave 60 ohms, acceptable? Test #1 - (8) Air regulator and fuel pump circuit. Should read - continuity. My measurement, 60 ohms, acceptable?

The inside of the tank looks good, not any rust as far as I could see. I checked if it was something blocking the outlet from the tank by using compressed air and blocking off all lines except the outlet but a good amount of air came through. I have a fuel cell lying around so I might test that one just so I can possibly rule out the fuel tank.

There's no problem keeping the engine running on low pressure so I will try to pinch the return line. Need the l28 a specific kind of fuel pump? I haven't checked the part number on the pump but I know for sure that it is a replacement, not an original Datsun fuel pump. I can't remember how much the pressure dropped after shutting of the engine so I will double check that as well. Seems like I have a lot of investigation left to do:sick:

Still having the same problem. I pulled out the tank and checked for rust etc but it looks very good and not any loose particles. The line from the tank to the fuel pump is not clogged. Is there a good way to check if the fuel pressure regulator is broken? Or can it be partially broken, since I have good pressure the first minutes the engine is running.

Small update on my problem. After some more troubleshooting I think I was wrong saying the fuel pump was wired directly to the battery. From what I have figured out it is wired correctly. But it is still running all the time when the ignition is on. I did the "checking fuel pump contact points" from the EF-section and it fails, so I guess that's why the fuel pump runs continuously? Also checked the fuel pressure and there is something funky about it. At first I had great pressure, 35-40 psi, decreasing on throttle. After running good on idle for a while I took it for a spin and the same problem occured, stumbling on acceleration. Checked the fuel pressure gauge and pressure had dropped to about 25 psi. As I kept letting the engine run fuel pressure decreased even more ending up at about 18-20 psi. The fuel pump has recently been replaced, but I'm not sure if it's working as it should. What is causing my fuel trouble, rust in the fuel tank clogging up the intake for the fuel pump? If I let the car rest for some time it will fire up and have good pressure.

I've done most of the test referred to in the EFI bible and the one that fails is the one with the air temperature sensor. Which is obvious since the fuel pump is connected differently. I will get the fuel pressure tested and also measure the A/F ratio, just need to buy the equipment first:-)

Hi, I have just bought my first z, but I have a problem which I'm not able to figure out. The car is a stock 280z with a l28. The engine runs good when it's cold but when it gets warm it starts to have a rough idle and it will not rev smoothly. It can run bad for some time and all of a sudden it will be able to rev smooth and without any backfire through the AFM/air filter. If i try to drive the car it will stumble on acceleration and it will eventually die out. But the engine will easily fire up again just after it has died. And it can run smooth again for several minutes before the same problem occurs again. Or it can still have a rough/unstable idle and have trouble revving. When I got the car the fuel pump had been replaced and the fuel damper had been bypassed. I reconnected the fuel damper and for a few minutes I felt that the engine was behaving better, but once I tried to drive the car it was worse than ever and after some struggle at idle it died. Now I had a hard time starting the engine, not like before when it started right up again. I bypassed the fuel damper again and it fired up and without any hesitation, so I guess the previous owner bypassed it for a reason.... The plugs are sooted so it seems like the engine gets too much fuel/not enough air. I've tried to disconnect the cold start valve but that does not make any difference. Just before I bought the car the plugs had been replaced, but the gap was wrong so I have adjusted them according to spec. But can the plugs have gone bad already? My previous car was a 180sx with a ca18det, that engine was very sensitive with regards to the plugs, how is the l28? I have not checked the fuel pressure yet, but if there was a problem with the fuel pressure the problem should be there all the time, right? I've gone throught the FSM and the EFI bible and after some troubleshooting it looks like there is a problem with the air temperature sensor. When I run the test where I move the flap the fuel pump does not start. The fuel pump is connected directly to the battery and it runs all the time when the ignition is on, so I guess it's a fix from the previous owner. Is the fuel pump supposed to be running all the time when ignition is on? On my other cars the fuel pump is running for a few seconds when ignition is on before it stops. The lid on the AFM is glued so it seems like some has been fiddling with it at some point, but I have not tried to adjust the AFM yet. I've used several hours searching the forums for any tips/clues but so far without any luck, I'm starting to get a bit frustrated:ermm: Does anyone have any tips, I'm starting to run out of ideas...