HaZmatt

Either one would be ok

Most of the hardware under the hood is new. Manifolds, t-stat housing, valve cover, motor mounts, etc.. Alternator, starter and tranny bolts were replated.

Hey Steve do you make the boots for the rear defrost plugs?

Thanks, they're from DatsunSpirit

Paint booth??? Sweet! Do you do your own painting i assume?

Some engine bay pics

She's running really good. I still have a few little bugs to work out.

Took her out for a spin today and got a few pics.

Silly me. The regulator I bought wasnt a return style that I needed. That was the problem.

I bypassed the regulator and it works fine now. Must be bad. Thanks guys

The regulator may be bad. I'm troubleshooting now

Yeah it ran fine at 3 psi but at higher RPM it would cut out. Ive read that 4psi is recommended. My fuel system goes like this: Tank-pump-filter-carbs-pressure gauge-regulator-tank

Ok guys im having a fuel issue with my 75 280z. I switched from EFI to carbs and had it running great until I switched to a different fuel pump and regulator. I was previously running an Rx7 4psi electric pump. I switched it out for an Airtex 5-6psi pump because I could only get about 3 psi from the RX7 pump. I also switched out regulators but that should'nt be the issue because they are plumbed the same. Heres the issue: When I installed the pump and turned it on it was vibrating like crazy and my pressure gauge was flickering at 0 psi. Since then if I remove a hose anywhere from the tank, gas pours out heavily. Even out of the return line. Heres what I've tried so far. Bypassed fuel filter - nothing Removed gas cap - nothing Tried draining fuel from return line out of tank - just kept pouring out Capped off return line at tank, hooked up pump and ran fuel through entire system with return line draining into bucket - Pump seemed to work fine, no clogs anywhere. So i've come to the conclusion that the pump is fine, its just fighting the fuel coming back from the return. Causing the 0 psi and vibrating. Any ideas? I thought of just draining the tank and starting over? BTW my evap tank is still hooked up normally just the line where the canister was in the engine bay is capped off. It ran fine like this for a couple months so I dont think thats the issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

I have a PGW windshield in mine and it looks and fits great.

Welcome to the darkside You will also need to rewire your fuel pump as well because the factory plug runs through the efi harness. I ran a return line and I'm not having any issues. Ive heard you can do it either way though. Good luck!

Thats an excellent pic of the different welds. Yeah on my first strut the voltage was too low. By the third one I had it down good. But like I said I would've felt confident in just doing a few tack welds because the coilover slides over the housing really nice and tight.

I used an Eastwood 150 mig welder

I hear ya, but the exhaust guy put it up as close to the body as he could with 2.5" piping. I guess i'll just have to be careful.

Thanks, yeah I was sure to only do about 1 inch long welds at a time. Allowing it to cool before welding again. The hubs never got that hot.

I had a local hot rod shop do the exhaust for me, everything was TIG welded.

So heres how it sat before And the "after" pictures Looks so much better in my opinion, gives the car a little more "attitude" I will take some better pictures soon

Now for the fronts

While I was in there I needed to replace my rear diff seals. I initially installed the Black Dragon seals and they were garbage. They started leaking within a week. So I purchased some OEM seals Heres the Black Dragon one on the left and the OEM ones on the right Did the other drivers side rear next (Charlie wanted to help) This weld turned out much better I think

I finished installing my BC coilovers today. It took 3 days approx 16 hours to complete. I am super happy with the way the car sits now, plus I have a lot of adjustability in ride height, dampening, and camber. I took it out for a test drive and they ride pretty nice. A little more harsh than the Eibach springs but definitely more sporty. I feel like with the Eibachs it felt like it swayed a lot more, but these are firm. Even with the dampening set on 5 out of 20. I might turn the dampening all the way down and see if that helps. But overall I am extremely happy. Dis assembly Factory strut housing cut. No turning back now Prepped for welding This was the first strut housing I welded. It didnt turn out great but I am confident in the welds. As a matter of fact these could've just been tack welded in place because they fit so nice and snug onto the housing. A quick coat of paint to match the existing powder coating Reassembled and installed. One down three to go!

Big update! The car is about 90% done. I still have some random odds and ends to finish up but other than that its mostly complete. Its been a long and busy 1 and 1/2 years. Last week I got the exhaust installed. I went with 2.5" mandrel bent 304 stainless into a Borla sport muffler and a polished slant tip. It turned out really nice and sounds great. I'll get a video posted soon!