z_boi

Greetings Drivers, Here's the latest NCDA track news and information. Please note that we just added a track opportunity for you at Thunderhill in exactly 6 weeks, so check it out and sign-up before it sells out! We'll see you in the paddock! ***************************************** NEW!! Relevant info and website here: http://ncda.lazypenguin.net/events.html The best thing about this event is the price - $150 and a discount for a 2nd Driver if you're sharing a car with someone! Some clubs are really gouging drivers at Track events these days because of supply and demand. Fortunately for you, we don't believe in this approach and have priced this event to be affordable for drivers. THE CLIFF NOTES: Date: July 5th, 2007 (Thursday) Event: Grip & Slip #3 - brought to you by NCDA x lazy penguin Venue: Thunderhill Raceway Park Gate: 8AM Drivers Meeting: 9AM. The Drivers Meeting is mandatory. Do not be late! Track is HOT from: 10am-6pm Driver Fees: $150, payable via myautoevents. OR $200 at the gate. Myautoevents handles our online sign-ups via PayPal or CC. Spectator Fees: $5 at the gate. Registration for this event is now OPEN! All drivers can begin sending in registrations for this event immediately. We have less than 45 days to fill this, so please spread the word with fellow drivers, and any forums you may frequent!!! Register here: http://www.myautoevents.com/pls/mae/frmEventDetail.Show?psevent_id=7576&psrnd=.75741043727862170965361616605420285994

Ok. a very long time ago. there was someone on the forum. i cant recall the user. but he was workin on a wide body kit that he was makin with carbon kevelar. and he had some stock r33 skyline wheels widen'd for his Z. Tryin to either find the guy or See if anyone know of any shops that will widen aluminum wheels as big as 19inches.

apply to any metal to metal contacts between the pad and calliper. jus make sure u keep it off the pad surface. It helps with pad noise and squeel.

I think i remember a thread about this a while back. seems to be a common problem with the Z's. whats the exact cause(s) of the smells. What did you guys do to fix/get rid of the problem?

yep, the 90 on up accords and 92-96 preludes had 4x114.3 pattern

i dont even know the actual milage on my motor. Its prolly well over 100k, and yes, the a/f was done with a probe in the exhaust.

its 170 at 5200rpm at the crank. but remember! this was GROSS HP. no belts, no water pump or anything. In a controled climate room under perfect conditions. thats cheating!!! hahah. but yeah, i dyno'd on dynapack, they dont calculate power the same way dynojects do. It also seems that dynapacks Numbers are lower than dynojets also. It supposed to be more accurate and is very good to tune ur car on.

i was running too rich...Washing the cylinder walls. He's a very good tuner. I trust him.

wat u guys think? anyone noe what the baseline on a stock 280z @ the wheels is? dyno2.bmp

powah @ the wheels.

anyone have any ideas or have done a baseline on thier 280z's or L28's with stock efi?

hahaha....my bad guys....i meant fuel pressure. Im running EFI. Stock with a rising rate adjustable regulator. NO TURBO..but i wish i had one. 46psi of boost is insane!!! hahaha

I'll try to have my friend scan my result sheet and get the pics from him then i'll post it. guess i'll make a new thread when i get the pics and sheet scanned

So i dyno'd today and my best run was 147hp@5459rpm and 151ft/lb@4524rpm with 46psi @ WOT then my friend who owns the shop, who is also a really good tuner, Told me that i should lower my fuel pressure and im currently running 24psi @ idle and 34psi @ WOT. That got me 144.2hp@5347rpm and 148.6@5082rpm My setup: 60mm tb, stock EFI, Crane XR3000 ignition with a PS91 coil, MSA 6-1 header, k&n cone filter, 2.5in straight pipe through a magnaflow 2.5in turbo muffler, stock 3.54 diff, early 5 spd and timing @ 12 degrees BTDC I was also told that i should advance my time few more degrees. I plan to run 14 or 15 degrees BTDC

yeah...wat kinda wheels are those. i like em....

try maybe gettin some lowering springs. they're bring it down to about wat those pictures look like with the 240z. Im using suspension technique springs and tokico illumina's. its about that hight. maybe a little lower.

i believe the 280z's and 260z's sat higher than the 240's. Thats y some people use 240 strut housings on their 260's and 280's. So that picture u used for reference wouldnt be good. heres a link to a picture of my car with stock springs and new struts. http://www.lazypenguin.net/members/canton.html I dont think theres anything wrong. You are using stock springs right? The hight has jus gone back up to where it is supposed to be when it came from factory. When ur struts wear, you car begins to sit lower.

Wonder if anyones heard of it? I noe its made for heavy duty automatic turks. but can i use it in my tranny or lsd diff if i mix in solution wiht a thicker weight gear oil? has anyone every tried it? its supposed to help create more friction so things work better. not sure about using it in the tranny but diffenately wanna try it in my LSD for my cressida.

i was thinking about doin this conversion a long time ago..but i was told i shouldnt because i wouldnt see much difference because it is the doorflap type sensor so its restictive either way. tho i would still like to try it to see for myself.

up to about a 7.5in rim or maybe even 8in rim, u can run zero offset no problem also depending on ur tire size. so lets say a 7in rim with about 215s would fit with no issues remember, the higher the offset number such as a positive offset, the further out the mounting point is ( beign closer to the outside of the wheel) and the lower the offset # such as a negative offset, the further back the mounting point. ( being closer to the back side of the wheel) oh, and your wheels should fit fine. You should probably go with the 205 since u have a 6 inch rim. i was running a 16x7 0 offset with 225/60. too wide of a tire for my rim.

do these rates apply for the 280z springs also?