z_boi

ok, so its not starting again. but i tink i kinda figured it out. im try replacing my dissy. i have one on my parts car and it worked fine when the car was running. lets see wat happens after that.

ok, heres the weird part. I was messin with the little black box next to the coil. the one that runs to the dissy. i had a test light hooked up and the tester was clamped to the green wire. then as i was pulling it off, i accidentally touched the pen to ground. then the car some how cranked on its own. (had key in on position) then i tried it again to see wat would happen. i jus heard a tick like a relay. so i decide to try and start it to see wat happens, and bam! she starts rite up. wats the deal with that?

tanks for the picture. i was tryin to figure out where to check for the relays with my books but theres jus wiring diagrams.

intake leak. or vaccum leak.

77 280z. wit stock efi and ignition system. Im gettin no power to the coil. i tested it with a tester light.

yea. its the same problem as last time. but i dunnoe wat it is. i never fixed it. It just started workin again. I noe that its in the primary part of the ignition system. (something b4 the coil) not sure wat it is. Im thinkin its a relay or somthing. im jus not sure. which one and where they are. Im not sure how i would check them and where too begin lookin. I noe basic tune up. i work on my car my self a lot. i jus dont noe the efi and electical too well.

anybody?

Ok, this has happened b4. I drove home. park the car and then it jus doesnt start up when i go out to start it. there fuel and it cranks, but no spark. Last time this happened. i didnt fix it. i was jus tryin to test connections and see if i was getter power to things. then i found water in my fuseble links. I dried it up and replaced one of the wires. then tested again and it had power to the coil. then i started it and it started up. so its happening again. the fuseble link is dry. wires are good. but i dont have power to the coil. wat could it be?

get a tie rod puller. remover the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod that holds it to the steering knucle. Then with the tie rod puller, put tension on the tie rod, take a hammer, and hit the knucle with it a few times, put more tension on the tie rod end, then wack it a few more times, and repeat that till it pops out. thats to remove it. to put it bak, jus simply tighten it till it seats and the nut line up wit the hole for the cotter pin. dont back it off if the pin doesnt go in. either try to tighten it a bit more to make it reach or back it all the way off then tighten it up again till it lines up. Oh yeah! and when u put the tie rod end back onto the rack. make sure u try to get it as close to where it originally was other wise ur alignment is gonna be really screwed up. since ur takin it to get allinged n e how, it doesnt have to be exactly. Hope this helps and not confusing u.

How do i do this conversion. I know i can, but i have no clue where to begin.

Ok, I hang out wit a bunch of 240sx people. I always go to meets with them and well yeah, theres a meet this weekend if anyone wants to go. heres the info: NorCal 240SX Meet norcal240sx.org info Date: 2004 March 28 Time: 2:00 PM - 5:30 PM (end time approx.) Location: Pleasanton Sports & Recreation Park / Parking Lot 2 5800 Parkside Drive Pleasanton, CA Our next meet will be in the East Bay, at Pleasanton Sports & Recreation Park, Parking Lot 2. Parking Lot 3 (adjacent to Parking Lot 2) is expected to be closed, but if it becomes open we may use that lot instead. After entering Parkside Drive, you'll see Sports Park Drive on your right. Enter Sports Park Drive and the first lot will be Parking Lot 2. Please refer to this map of the park. www.norcal240sx.org

yeah, i have a 2.5in str8 pipe. and 6 2 1 header. I will also be portmatching the manifold to the throttle body. but my question is, should i get the AFM? Will that help me becuzz i figure the the stock afm was designed to work with the stock throttlebody. so wouldnt it be a better idea to use the turbo afm? Im jus tryin to figure out weather i should buy the AFM off this guy for 85 buks. Its alreayd been converted to work on an NA.

Suks! my cars all off. hahah Damn that saturn. or wait there was that suv blockin me at first. then the saturn came and took the spot. o well. nice little meet tho. even tho now my car is leakin like crazy.

So, Im planning on doin the 60mm 240sx throttle body conversion. And theres a guys sellin a turbo AFM that has been converted to work on an NA. Hes willin to ship it to me for 85 buks. wat do u guys think? Is it really worth it. I kinda see it this way. With the throttle body upgrade, and the stock AFM, it would seem to me that it wouldnt help much without the Bigger AFM. Any opinions on this? Or does anyone know how to or how easy it is to do this conversion? Or should i Jus buy the one off this guy?

my idle doesnt stay steady, When i start it for the first time, the cold start valve is on at about 1200, then it comes down to about 8 where i want it at, or where it should be. then after it warms up really good and i drive it for a bit, it goes up to about 1000. but I think its running rought becuase i have a leak at my intake manifold. Not sure tho. Should be ok to drive. It drives jus fine but idles ruff.

Damn! Shes running now but i think i have a leak where my intake mani bolts up, she runs really ruff at idle. Drives fine tho, wata ya guys think? would i be ok driving around like that?

i have some chrome wheels that were on my 77. they are 14x6.5 or 7 not sure. and the offset is somewhere around the range of 0 to -5?

im good with 12.

i doubt that they'll look under your hood, and if they do, they'll prolly notice someting. but then again, isnt ur car already exempt? They only way u'll get in trouble if it is exempt is that he'll send u to the state ref.

wat valve are u talkin about. the egr is off. its jus the spacer that goes between the egr valve and the manifold thats stuck. Im lettin it soak in some wd40 rite now, litterally soaking. hopefully it'll help. if not, i'll jus have to cut it. We'll see wat happens tomorro.

jeese, i really hope i can get my car done b4 the weekend. And im kinda thinkin 10am is a little too early.

You can just disconnect the vaccum lines that go from the egr to the manifold. That way the egr never opens. Then jus plug that vaccum line and it should fine. Im tryin to completely remove my egr to make the enginebay look a little less messy. Im either gonna plug the coolant lines or jus bypass the themalvaccum valve.

haha, i only have a pencil torch and tried to heat it up. lols. but yeah guess i'll try to soak it.

i use pb blaster on it. then i hammered a chizzle between the manifold and the spacer but it wont even budge. I was thinkin maybe i'll cut the spacer to try and get it off. I guess ill somehow try to soak it wit sometin and try not to get it into the manifold. hopefully it'll come off.