z_boi

thermalstat is god. it probably has less than a 1000miles one it. I bought it brand new and hasd it in my previous z. and now its in this 77. Well, my overheating problem was solved with the pusher fan. I can sit in traffic all day and still be under the middle line. I can drive long distances at high rpms wit no problems, (4spd wit 3.90). So for now im good with my set up.:classic:

it doesnt really over heat. but the temp starts to go over the middle when i idle for a very long time or i've been driving on the freeway for a while. I;ve check the water pump. looks perfect. The belts i can probably replace. The radiator is good. I think one reason y it gets hot when im driving on the freeway is becuzz i believe someone put a 3.9 rear end on the car wit the original 4spd. Well, i'll be driving my car today and will see how the pusher fan helps.

My motor runs hot, and i would like to be able to drive long distance without having to worry about overheating. I've 160 degree thermalstat but it still gets way over those temps after having driven for a while, or jus idling for a while after driving. I've installed a pusher electric fan but have yet to drive my car. I was wondering if there were any to install an oil cooler or if there were any aftermarket oil coolers out there i can use.

Zvoiture, Is this a gear type lsd your talkin about that you might have. I might be interested in it.

thanks but no thanks, I dont want to haave to deal with the drive shaft.

theres not much to rebuilding a rotory, except for the fact that you have to be very precise with puttin it bak together. u have very little room for error, or it'll probably not run or not run rite. They can produce quite a bit of torque if u ask me. This guy i know has a turbo II and he dyno'd at about 188hp and 240-250 lb ft of torque. The newer renisis has both ports on the side in of the housing so theres less overlap with the ports. They are also suppose to burn half the amount of oil it used to. (They burn oil becuzz they are 2 storkes, the apex seals needs to get lubercated so oil goes into the combustion chambers to do so.) And also be more fuel efficient. The rx-7's with the most problems were the thrid gen, the fd's. they had a lot of overheating problems. theres been word that theres a company developing a sparkplug that is suppose to almost eleminate detination so that would mean you will start see a lot of 700-800hp rotories driving around on the streets. I love rotories and these things can rev!!!! MY dream project is really to put a 3 rotor 20b in a s-30:devious:

20b are from cosmos. they're like a sports coupe in japan. And also come twin turbo. I would really like to put one in my Z. Rotories can make big hp. A 13b twin turbo in a s-30 would also me nice too.:classic: Oh and the new renesis are suppose to consume less fuel, more compact in size and lighter weight. and at the same time, put out more hp. Now if those were turbocharged, then That'll be sweet!:devious:

there used to be datsun meets there at union landing. but i never went. Or they'll meet over at the tapioca express. I hang out wit the zilvia guys. and sometimes the rx-7 guys. they have meets all the time. And sometimes they meet over at frisco. Im always up for a meet.

Im up for a meet. Lot of guys meet in union city at union landing. Jus a suggestion. Im always up for a meet.

Apexi NA 2.5in N1 muffler. $80 obo pair of quater windows. $60 clock, fule/amp guage, water/oil guage, and tach form a 76 280. $40 Most of the interior pannels form a 76 280. I think im only missing the rear right pannel. $40 full set of strut inserts out of my 77 that are still good. all 4 have good compression. unkown brand. $50 And also parting out a 78 280z. No hood, no head light buckets. Motor is still there but has a broken valve. motor ran b4 i broke the valve. wasnt broken from driving. full brown interior, seats are ripped. PM me or email me.

didnt get a pm from u?

Im lookin for a nissan 5spd. And also in search of some lowering springs for my 280z. new or used. if its a good price, i'll take it.

If your talkin about the switch on my center console, I've tried switching it with the one from my other z that works, but no luck.

car idles at about 750-800. when its all warmed up, the oil presure drops way below the line. its almost to where it is when the car is off. I'll check out the car this weekend. no time till then. Thanks a bunch guys.

well, i'll have to check that. Can u tell me where it is located? Its kinda weird tho. when i start it up for the first time of the day, it has pretty good oil pressure. Then i guess when it warms up, the presure begins to drop and then when i drive it hard, it goes up pass the middle. I hope its just the sending uinit or the guage that is faulty.

I jus got my car yesterday and didnt notice this untill jus now. I was driving it and left it idling, when i got bak in the car. i noticed that my oil presure was completely down. Then when i begin to drive it. (as the revs go up) The oil presure begins to go bak up. Could this be because a bad oil pump? bad sending unit? wat can the problem be?

Ok, my signals and everything works, but the hazard doesnt. What could be the cause? Does or did anyone else have this problem?

well, how much power do you plan on pushing? if you jus lookin for a little extra power and can salvage all the turbo parts. you can jus turbo the stock l28. but if you wanna boost more and run 250 + hp then your better off doing the turbo swap. have you tried to using the search on the forum? You can probably find some good info.

well, i know that the heads are different. where the l28 has a n42 head with round exhaust ports and the l28et has a p90 head with square exhaust ports. I think that there are more water passages in the l28et, but im not sure.

I figured maybe i can mill the notches myself. That shouldnt be too difficult rite? How do i check if its harden steel valve seats and not bronze. thanks a bunch guys. Happy New Year!

so if i mill the injector notch into the head, i would be fine? or do i also have to replace the valve seats? and it shouldnt be too difficult to mill the notch for the injectors rite? Only reason i ask is because this guy has a complete head wit valve train and all for 90 buks.

i plan on pickin up an e88 head and want to keep the factory efi, i was just wondering if it'll all bolt up and run with no problems? And is 90 a good price for a complete e88 head? claims to have about 60k miles on it.

i jus need some old inserts. im tryin to take out my tokicos. Thanks for the offer tho.