Mark Maras

I believe there are two different snake oils for injection. One is a solvent that breaks down corrosion. The other is a lubricant that frequently uses mineral oil to lube the injectors. The one you've shown is a lubricant. Some products may contain solvent and oil but the little I've studied them, it appears it is either one or the other.

IF, (big if) the problem is electrical and is isolated to #4, it has to be located somewhere in the dist. cap, rotor, plug wire, sparkplug, and or any of their electrical connections. I'd pull the dist. cap (wires intact), and pull the plug wires. Using an ohm meter. check the resistance in the circuit between the contacts in the cap with the corresponding spark plug wire at the boot end. They should all be similar. Let's hope you find high resistance in the #4 circuit.

Depending on the mechanic's expertise, I'd lean towards the mechanic with a shop. If you have a Z repair manual, it will guide you through the head removal and replacement process.

I like the fact that they want to inspect the head before quoting a fee. I'm assuming you'd have to take them the cyl. head. Who will be removing and replacing the head?

Don't cut the choke cables. Loosen both cable attachment screws at the carbs. Push and pull the choke lever a few times. Is it easy or difficult to operate? If it's difficult, lube the cable and lever mechanism with oil. I pulled the carb end of the cables up, and sprayed WD 40 or CRC lube into the cable sheath ends and let gravity pull the lube down along the length of the cables. Then I looked to see if both nozzles were all the way up, pushed the choke knob forward and connected the cables to the carbs. Good luck and tell your Dad not to worry about the Canal.

When my nozzles started sticking in the down position, I removed the carbs and found the #1 bar warped. The ends were not parallel to their attachment points. A slight twist with two pairs of pliers on the bar realigned the ends of bar #1 with their mounting points. That ended the problem with the nozzles.

How's your knee doing?

It looks like something a pellet gun could cause. Is the paint original or a re-spray?

I too am guilty of using Series 1 &2. but using Type A &B is going to launch the same discussion by the same people because Nissan didn't use that designation either. I'll continue to use the Series designation because it is descriptive enough for U.S. Infidels.

I wrapped the ratchet straps under the car and over the roof.

I've used two folded towels against the glass, two 2x4s on the towels, and a ratchet strap or two to push the glass in.

Glad to hear you're doing well. You'll be in my prayers.

I'd start with a valve adjustment then a dry compression test followed by a wet compression test.

It can be reached from the right side with the car on jack stands and long tools.

Fender well, below the battery.