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Mark Maras

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Everything posted by Mark Maras

  1. Mark Maras
    I believe there are two different snake oils for injection. One is a solvent that breaks down corrosion. The other is a lubricant that frequently uses mineral oil to lube the injectors. The one you've shown is a lubricant. Some products may contain solvent and oil but the little I've studied them, it appears it is either one or the other.
  2. Mark Maras
    IF, (big if) the problem is electrical and is isolated to #4, it has to be located somewhere in the dist. cap, rotor, plug wire, sparkplug, and or any of their electrical connections. I'd pull the dist. cap (wires intact), and pull the plug wires. Using an ohm meter. check the resistance in the circuit between the contacts in the cap with the corresponding spark plug wire at the boot end. They should all be similar. Let's hope you find high resistance in the #4 circuit.
  3. Mark Maras
    Depending on the mechanic's expertise, I'd lean towards the mechanic with a shop. If you have a Z repair manual, it will guide you through the head removal and replacement process.
  4. Mark Maras
    I like the fact that they want to inspect the head before quoting a fee. I'm assuming you'd have to take them the cyl. head. Who will be removing and replacing the head?
  5. Mark Maras
    Don't cut the choke cables. Loosen both cable attachment screws at the carbs. Push and pull the choke lever a few times. Is it easy or difficult to operate? If it's difficult, lube the cable and lever mechanism with oil. I pulled the carb end of the cables up, and sprayed WD 40 or CRC lube into the cable sheath ends and let gravity pull the lube down along the length of the cables. Then I looked to see if both nozzles were all the way up, pushed the choke knob forward and connected the cables to the carbs. Good luck and tell your Dad not to worry about the Canal.
  6. Mark Maras
    When my nozzles started sticking in the down position, I removed the carbs and found the #1 bar warped. The ends were not parallel to their attachment points. A slight twist with two pairs of pliers on the bar realigned the ends of bar #1 with their mounting points. That ended the problem with the nozzles.
  7. Mark Maras
    How's your knee doing?
  8. Mark Maras
    It looks like something a pellet gun could cause. Is the paint original or a re-spray?
  9. Mark Maras
    I too am guilty of using Series 1 &2. but using Type A &B is going to launch the same discussion by the same people because Nissan didn't use that designation either. I'll continue to use the Series designation because it is descriptive enough for U.S. Infidels.
  10. Mark Maras
    I wrapped the ratchet straps under the car and over the roof.
  11. Mark Maras
    I've used two folded towels against the glass, two 2x4s on the towels, and a ratchet strap or two to push the glass in.
  12. Mark Maras
    Glad to hear you're doing well. You'll be in my prayers.
  13. Mark Maras
    I'd start with a valve adjustment then a dry compression test followed by a wet compression test.
  14. Mark Maras

    Yikes!!!

    Mark Maras replied to Randalla's topic in Help Me !!

    It can be reached from the right side with the car on jack stands and long tools.
  15. Mark Maras
    Fender well, below the battery.
  16. Mark Maras
    Hopefully, someone can tell Jalex how to test the fan coupling. After my coupling froze up I replaced it with a flex fan. There don't seem to be many flex fan fans around here but it was, IMO, an improvement over the stock fan. Nowadays I would probably go with an electric fan.
  17. Mark Maras
    A temporary solution is to turn off the engine when you're not moving. Yes. you may have to restart it to move 20' before you turn it off again but I used this method for years in hot weather and traffic jams. It prevented overheating. Idling builds engine heat. BTW, what type of fan are you using?
  18. Mark Maras
    Jalex's NGK plug wires are almost new. I like the idea of replacing the dizzy. Will the coil he's currently using (snort) be OK with the new dizzy?
  19. Mark Maras
    Don't touch it if you don't have trouble starting it in cold weather.
  20. Mark Maras
    Loosen the two choke cable screws on the carbs, push the choke knob to a centimeter from closed, and tighten the screws. You state the nozzles are up. Was that a visual check or a Braille check? That little flat-bar linkage piece that pulls down the nozzles can warp and bind the nozzle in the down position,
  21. Mark Maras
    @jalexquijano When the choke knob is pushed into the off position are the nozzles pushed all the way up? Use a mirror to check them.
  22. Mark Maras
    I always adjusted my choke cables to end up with a little slack before they pulled the nozzles. My reasoning was I wanted that extra bit of slack to push the nozzles all the way up even if the choke knob wouldn't go all the way to the off position. That did prevent the cables from pulling the nozzles all the way to the bottom but even here in the NW I rarely needed full choke in the winter.
  23. Mark Maras
    Dry ice may do the trick. Freeze it and chip it off.
  24. Mark Maras
    So, hooning is similar to "Hold my beer"?
  25. Mark Maras
    Snake oil for valve trains. I've tried a few in the past and been disappointed with the results but a mild cam seal leak and a severe rack and pinion leak on our 97 Outback (spare car) made me dig deeper. After watching many snake oil reviews I decided to try AT 205. This stuff is amazing. Project Farm confirmed this on YouTube. I added the recommended amount to the power steering and engine oil. Although the car gets driven less than a thousand miles a year, it's been almost 2 years and I have not had to top up either reservoir. I haven't tried it on old rubber grommets and bushings but it may revive those too. The only negative reviews I found were from some Toyota owners stating that it removed the paint in the oil pans causing a blockage in the oil pick-up screen
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