Mark Maras

Is your clockwise adjustment your view from the top of the carb or is it looking at the adjustment screw from the bottom of the carb? This makes a huge difference. When we describe turning the mixture screw clockwise, we're imagining looking at it from the bottom of the carb and we're leaning the mixture out. If you're imagining looking at the screw from the top and turning it clockwise, you're richening it. You could pull a dome and watch the nozzle as you adjust the height and tell us if the nozzle rises or drops when you turn it clockwise.

Charles has a good memory. It was, as I recall, just #4 that was fouling. Are they all fouling now after idling?

Refresh my memory please. What happens when you raise the nozzles?

I have to ask, Why do you let it idle instead of turning it off? Trouble restarting when it's hot? It's obviously too rich. The most common problems, aside from float levels, are stiff nozzle hoses, misaligned nozzle choke linkage or misadjusted choke cables. All of these can prevent the nozzles from raising up all the way when the choke knob is pushed into the off position. How many turns down are the nozzles?

No I don't. Maybe that's where the difference lies.

I didn't get the notice. I wonder why, not that I feel left out.

I don't remember how far the nozzles drop at full choke but you should be able to tell the difference between no choke and full choke with a finger.

Are you using the choke and are the choke cables pulling the nozzles down?

Rear window vertical stripes are common on the early "series 2" (sorry Alan).

The early Zs, with the vents in the hatch, had vertical defoggers but Nissan used the vertical defogger glass well into 1971 when the vent went to the C pillar.

Are the rear window defogger stripes vertical or horizontal?

The earliest Z I've seen was in the back room of ZTherapy's shop. As I recall, Steve said it was #32. I wonder if he still has it?

I'd guess it is some sort of alignment tool. Bellhousing to engine block for example.

She reminds me of my Australian Shepherd. She wanted to hang out with me no matter what I was doing, even when I was welding.

I'd rather "Ignore" them. My ignore list at HybridZ is lengthy and growing. Not many ignores here.

Eastern mystical levitation.

Satch Carlson is a name that brings back some good memories. He compared the morning commute on our Portland stretch of I 205 in morning traffic to a F1 qualifying session.

I know that Volvos used SUs back in the day. I don't know if they used them on V8s or even if they offered a V8.

If a Stratocaster could ask for anything for Christmas, it would be a David Gilmour.

That depends on coolant flow and air flow. A temp drop isn't a sure thing if either of the others isn't up to snuff. A long time ago the fan clutch on my 71 locked up. I ended up replacing it with a flex fan and a spacer to put it about 1/2" from the rad. (Not a popular replacement for most Z owners). I ran it for another 15+ years and found it to be superior to the fan clutch.

Almost right. Along with spinning the pump and fan faster you're also running the engine faster which means more heat is created in any given length of time than it would at idle. Out of curiosity are you using a fan shroud?

When you say "Once the car is driving, the temperature drops like a stone", (assuming it's at operating temp) does it go down to operating temperature or lower?

What is a list title? I've titled and licensed a couple of cars in Wa. and Or. What a pain in the arse. Is there a short cut?

Great advice. I've done it more than once. If however you decide to try this method to back up, leave a lot of space behind you.

Pull the rubber boots back and take a peek under boots on the clutch master and slave cylinder. If there is brake fluid in the boot, you've found the leaky cylinder. Over the years I've found that if I replaced the leaking cylinder and not the other, within a year I was replacing the other cylinder because of a leak. I recommend replacing both cylinders at the same time.