Mark Maras

OK, Check the valve lash clearance on #6. If the lash is tight, adjust and check the compression on #6 again. Squirt some oil into all of the cyls. and check it again. Compression in #1 - #5 will probably raise a little. #6 will probably raise a lot. This would indicate a problem with the piston rings sealing properly. If #6 raises about the same as the others, the top side is the problem. A bore scope in #6 might tell you more. My gut feeling is the same as grannyknot's. For some reason the rings on #6 haven't seated. You might want to find out what kind of rings were used on the build. I don't have much knowledge about rings but IMO moly rings are the most forgiving during break in. Chrome rings are considered a step up from moly but they have had problems seating and sealing. I've always used moly rings for the street. Another plus with moly is they will reseat, even on on old engine that has been sitting for a long time. "Surely" there are members that can add their knowledge about rings. I think the discussion is about to arise.

"Level" is at the top of the mixture screw jet. It's no more complicated than the innards of a toilet tank. If the water is too high, bend the float rod (or tab, SUS) down. Set the level where ever you want it. But the fuel (float) level is always best set at the top of the jet (2 1/2 turns down), with the car level. Then if you raise or lower the jet to fine tune the mixture the carbs will be sensitive to small adjustments.

Jarvo2@, KiraK@ is looking for the front one too.

Don't assume the compression is fine just because it runs solid. There's reason for that much blow-by in the crankcase. I'd want to find out why, before I dumped it all back into the intake and then fret about, is there anything wrong, how long will it last. A compression test is cheap and easy.

I've always used movers' blankets draped over all four sides of the bay. I predict you'll have little, if any, trouble doing it yourself. It'll slide in there just fine. Cushion anything of value, take it slow, think ahead and don't tighten any one bolt in an assembly until all the bolts are in. Easy Peasy.

I'd buy one too. Muscle car calendars are OK but I'd rather have a Z calendar any day. Maybe a joint effort, CZCC and our beloved aftermarket parts suppliers could get it done.

The slave cyl. rod on the Series 1 was adjustable. Don't know about S 2. I do know that I love having an adjuster on the slave cyl. It allows the clearance between the release bearing and the pressure plate to be set just where the pedal feels right. I'm confused about your reference to float valves and the rear being taller. Since the actual float valve (needle and seat) is hidden in the float bowl, Are you referring to the fuel level in the tubes, vent tubes on top or something that I'm missing?

My first mental image was Monty Python-Lumberjacks! I must be getting old.

It it the early AM only or the later AM FM? I don't remember when they changed.

Thumbs up to all original owners. There should be a Z Hall of Fame for all of you.

Watch the coolant level in the radiator very close along with the oil. You may notice a coolant level drop before the oil and coolant emulsify into mayonnaise.

SchiZophrenia!

Interesting the sludge ball is localized. Easy enough to remove. I really hope I'm wrong but the color of your oil indicates (to me anyway) you may have coolant mixed in it. Kind of looks like an emulsion. A drop of the oil on a hot surface (350 f +) will tell you if there's water in it. If it sizzles there is water. If it just smokes, it's pure oil.

Welcome Zach That's a beautiful Z. You're going to love personalizing it.

Welcome Joey Yeah, The stories from admirers are always similar. I owned a Datsun (pick a model) once, best car I ever owned. Wish I hadn't sold it. Want to sell yours? As far as loving all things retro, Yes we love retro. In fact, many of us ARE retro.

Just 45 min. away from Geoff. I'll bet he's already on his way. Good eye, Jim.

I looked at ZHome but their pic of the car in 903 blue wasn't accurate. Kat's car looks like 903 should.

I totally understand the "aging out" syndrome. Physical projects take a little longer to accomplish, recovery time takes a lot longer. The really difficult projects, I call on my son, Alex. He's fun to work with. We tend to be competitive with each other and love nothing better than to see the other person screw up or take longer than he should. All in good fun and a great way for him to learn about Zs. He drives an 81 RX7. Hope your mechanic can get to it soon. I doubt it's anything more than wheel bearings.

IMO, Don't remove the float bowl from the carb. body unless it's leaking at that connection. I've never seen one leak there. Whether your needle and seat is new or not, it's not closing all the way. I had a new one do the same thing once. I took it apart, couldn't see anything wrong, cleaned it, reassembled it and it worked fine. Never did discover the source of the problem. To prevent the bowl gasket from "Pringling", sandwich it between sheets of wax paper and put it between two flat surfaces. I use two books.

Yeah, it's probably a wheel bearing. On the positive side, It gave up while it was home, not miles away and it's a cheap, easy repair. BTW, A LONG pin punch is useful for removing the outer races.

Did the clunking change when the brakes were applied?

IMO 903 was the darker of the two blues. 115 was more a silvery (metallic) blue. Patcon is right about samples. It's the only way to be sure before you spend big bucks on paint.

Thanks for sharing. One could pull the doors without re-aligning the hinges. Quick and easy.

Wow. Those are perfect. They should offer those with the leather kit.