Mark Maras
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Everything posted by Mark Maras
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My 71 had a single choke lever from the factory that operated both chokes. The missing lever was for a hand throttle (20th century cruise control) & was discontinued shortly after production.
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I had this problem a few years back. After trying all the suggestions above with no success, I finally pushed the wheel studs back which allowed the drums to rock & allow more movement. I was able to pull the top of the drum out & with some leverage pull it off.The bottom shoe was the one that was stuck on both sides
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Remove the bungies & use duct tape, Red Green comes to mind. You gotta admit, it would be fast & effective.
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I had a vibration in my 71 that I could feel in the stick but I pretty much ignored it because I was trying to find the 800 lb. bumblebee that came around at 80 mph +. it was so loud it would drown out my AM radio. I went through the trans & linkage, then replaced all six u-joints. b-bee was still there. Next step was to take the drive shaft to have it balanced. as it turned out the shaft was bent ever so slightly.They retubed the drive shaft, put in Spicer u-joints, & gave me a lecture on why I should never buy anything but the best. I couldn't stop grinning at the difference. It not only eliminated the stick & the b-bee vibration, but a few more that I assumed were normal. Check the d-shaft balance & go from there.
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The PO of my car used crushed rock & solvent. He reportedly rolled the tank around the yard for a couple of hours to clean it. I don't know how well the chain will work but I peeked into my tank after he cleaned it & it is shiny now. Good luck
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Oil pump shaft & dizzy installed wrong, no cam oiler tube, valves adjusted in fractions of an inch not thousanths. I'm sure there is a lot more POs creativity that I haven't discovered yet.
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What Are These Things Falling Out Of My Vent??
Mark Maras replied to rossiz's topic in Open Discussions
Z Manna? -
Hey Geoff It sounds as if you may have caught the dreaded "As long as I'm in here I might as well". Actually, I'm glad that you are able to move on to bigger & better things. Thanks for keeping us up on the latest successes.
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That is, without a doubt, the best looking roadster I've ever seen. I drove a friends 2 litre occasionally back in the mid 70s. In comparison to a MGB, which was my wife's first car, the Datsun wins in all catagories. Don't get me wrong, an MGB, with the top down, is great fun but a Datsun takes the fun to a higher level. I've always had a roadster on my wish list along with a 510. Enjoy
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Although I don't own a Pertronix set-up & know virtually nothing about it, I've repeatedly read about this little problem of leaving the key on & and frying it, I'll leave the question of why anyone would sell or buy this product, to anyone who would like to educate me. The thing I'm curious about is, does anyone know how long you can safely leave the key on? Everyone writing about the problem seems to have a vague idea of the time frame. I'd be afraid to buy one for that reason alone. I really am curious about the positives this system offers because Pertronix was one of the options for an upgrade.
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Congratulations Geoff How many times did you pinch yourself just to make sure it wasn't a dream? Assuming your Z is now running great, as the burn-out would indicate, two questions remain #1 Is it going to be your daily driver? & #2 Will your daughter ever trust it or want to be seen in it again? Enjoy this next week, Temp. near 80 Wed. Perfect Z weather in the NW.
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Hi Geoff, While you're under the car, disconnect the clutch slave cylinder spring & see if you can move the clutch release arm for & aft. I adjust mine so there is about 1/4"-3/8" of movement. This will ensure the release bearing separates from the p-plate. If the r-bearing has been pushing on the p-plate, pushing on the clutch may not change the noise. My first impression while "listening to the video" was serious valve train noise. Pull the valve cover take a look & a listen. I think you'll find it there. Then I listened for the whirring noise & heard it. I think you'll find it in the valve train but I'm going to listen to it a few more times to take a shot at that one. Give me a call if I can help. Meanwhile, Fawlty Towers, John Cleese screaming at his car. It will make you laugh. Guaranteed
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Greasing the universals on the drive shafts?
Mark Maras replied to Healeyalt's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
If & when you are going to change them, I recommend Spicer u-joints if you're not going to use Nissan. Cheap u-joints can cause or aggravate driveshaft vibration. A fairly common problem on Zs. The local driveshaft shop I use insists on Spicer joints when balancing. -
1972 240z Stalling after a few minutes of driving.
Mark Maras replied to mckennar's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Sus get leaner as the fuel level drops. The fuel level is supposed to be just a little below the top of the jet which is determined by the float level. Easy to test the vapor lock theory, test drive it with the hood cracked open. My previous 71 Z & I shared 20+ years as a DD & despite not having insulated f. lines, only a heat shield, I didn't experience V. lock once. -
1972 240z Stalling after a few minutes of driving.
Mark Maras replied to mckennar's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
I'm going to take a shot at this. If we start with the normally dark plugs, idle was set with a rich mixture. As the engine starts to run low on gas the mixture leans out & the idle goes up. No power under load is classic low fuel supply to the carbs. There is plenty of fuel in the filter up front seemingly the problem exists from the filter to and including the carbs. Check the f. lines, filters in the banjo fittings on the float bowl & fuel pressure & volume test. There may be a filter in front of the gas tank too. -
Ouch, it hurts a little more when you remember the price of gas pre 1973. At least we can enjoy our miles of driving.
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I know little of the complexties of FI, being an SU guy, but there are basic similarities. I doubt the problem is fuel ratio related. The only way any engine will run at higher RPMs is increased air supply. More fuel is needed to sustain the higher revs but it starts with the air supply. Something is controlling the butterfly and preventing it from closing. Most carbs have a dashpot,(vac. diaph.) that allows the revs to fall normally, until just above idle. Think of it as a rev cushion. Whatever is causing this problem is attached to the throttle shaft or linkage and is temp. related too. Just out of curiousity how do your plugs look? It is possible running a very lean A/F ratio that an increse in fuel will raise the revs.
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A good rad. shop can re-core it. I've always used Mac's in Portland but there must be a good shop in Bend or Redmond. Here's my tip. Pick up a mechanics pad at Harbor Freight. It's a trifold cushion about 5' long that makes everything much less painful. It also works great for under dash work if you remove the seat.
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Take a look at the front carb.The likely culprits for the first three sooty plugs are; sticking fuel nozzle, misadjusted choke cable, mixture screw adj. or float level.
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It sounds like valve train to me. I'd pull the valve cover, start it up and use the prev. mentioned hose to find the source of the sound. I've used the hose for years. AmaZing tool. Works well for checking the carb. balance too.
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There is one more vac. line from the base of the front carb to the vac. diaphram on the dizzy.
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The hoses into the back of the air filter aren't vacuum lines. They all vent fumes from the float bowls and the engine to be burned. Vacuum lines are usually found coming from the base of a carb or the intake manifold.
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It sounds like valve train noise to me, I'd pull the valve cover & see if the oil tube is squirting, drooling or leaking. It should be squirting oil out uf 12 holes in the tube. The lower compression on #s 2 & 4 would have me rechecking the valve adj on those two.
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The tic tic sounds lindicate the plugs are firing. I'd pull #2 or 3 plug & ground it to actually see what, if anything, is going on. Compression? Recheck the valve adj. & compression to eliminate that possibility. That leaves FI. I'm an SU guy but basic injector function must be easy an easy test. I'd guess disconnecting the injectors one at a time.
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Check the inside of the dizzy cap boots & the spark plug boots to see if the connectors have pulled back. If this is a consistant no fire in two cyls. it is isolated to the wires, cap, rotor or plugs all of which are new. Swap #1 & #2 plug wires & see if the miss changes to #1. This problem is usually a poor elec. connection, especially when you have new components.