Mark Maras

Beautiful Z. love the color,

I want to thank everyone for the info that made it possible to bring another Z[s30] back from the grave. The previous owner bought it as a project and coud not get it running, so he sold it. Thanks to this forum here's what I found before I turned the key; missing cam oiler, oil pump & distributor-180' out, rusty float pins, valve adj.- some were set to 1/16", Thanks to ZTherapy for the kit and CD, When I finished with the carbs I was confident that they would work. My son and I went through the list and fixed everything. Compression- between 155 - 160. We crank it over, plugs out, to see if it is oiling the cam. Looks good. Install the plugs, say a quick prayer and turn the key. OOPS, It does need a coil wire, OK, Try again, Much to our surprise and delight it springs to life and it sounds absolutely perfect, This is before balancing the carbs. I can't stop grinning. My son says it's time to start on the brakes but for now I'm content to just start it and hear it purr. Oh yeah and maybe I'll grab a lottery ticket while my luck is running good. Thanks to everyone, we couldn't have done it without you. Mark in Portland

Next time, warm it up and try giving it some choke as you put the engine under a load. That will tell you if the mixture is too lean. Some additional info is needed; Was the engine warmed up? How many turns down are your nozzle screws? Color of the plugs? What was your reason for the carb kits? Did it run poorly before? Did you work on anything else when the carbs were off? Given the info at hand, my first choice is it's too lean. Check; fuel filters, fuel pressure & volume, float level. Mark in Portland

Thanks for bringing this subject up. Many of our members have done extensive restoration on Z bodies, including frame rails & shock towers. Does anyone have a drawing or description with measurements and reference points to find out if a Z has been twisted, stretched or shrunk? I assume when the frame rails are replaced you're making absolutely sure they're in exactly the same location as before, but did you have any doubts about the original measurements? I think this would be extremely helpful, not only in repairing a Z but also in buying a Z. I'm seriously considering fabricating braces to triangulate the the tip of the front frame rail to the top of the shock tower as well as a lateral brace from tower to tower. Anybody out there want to share some pics or ideas about this subject. When I finally get around to this addition, I want everything to be right before I start welding. Thanks Mark in Portland

We will need a description or picture of the damage. That said, I wouldn't try to repair an old H.B. The possible problem after welding is rebalancing it. That item should be easy to find used amoung our members. Anyone out there have one to spare? Mark in Portland

Funny thing, You put a downdraft on a Z and it's instantly the red-headed step child, still part of the family but,,,Well,,,,You know. Very few of the Zs on the street are 100% original, Most of us are trying to "improve" our Zs so we can enjoy them. If you're more comfortable with a Holley, do it, I think it would be a great conversation starter. Most people more curious than judgmental. Mark in Portland

My first experience with domestic downdrafts on foreign in-line engine. 1969. An old drag racer I knew "fixed" his son in law's XK120 Jag, carb. problems, in an afternoon. He fabricated the flanges, found some exhaust bends, fitted & welded everything up, mounted a used two barrel carb. from a Ford engine of about the same cubic inches as the Jag and fired it up. Everyone loved the conversion. It's your Z, go for it. If you build the manifold it will be that much cheaper & a source of pride. We want photos. Mark in Portland

If you are looking for any comfort in the ride, use progressive wound springs. I installed Mulholland[sp.] race springs and Bilnstein shocks on my Series 1 years ago. The ride was a lot stiffer than most of my passengers cared for. I, however, loved it even though periodically I had to scoop all the misc. screws and hardware out of the bottom of the doors and reinstall them. It was a firm ride to say the least. Mark in Portland

I'm not familiar with an electronic flex fan but when my fan clutch seized back in the late 70s I installed a standard[at least back then] flex fan on my Series 1 and drove it for another 15+years with no issues. It functioned perfectly in all conditions from below freezing to above 100 F. My impression back then was the flex fan robbed less horsepower than the original fan. If I had it to do over again I would make the same choice as before. Just some food for thought. Mark in Portland

It's perfect, I'll take you up on your generous offer, Thanks. I had given up on the dumb idea of drilling & tapping the cover. This tab makes it easier than notching the pulley. I'll be in touch. Thanks again Mark in Portland

It very well could be the one I need. Or I can adapt it to work. I think that my front cover has 1 screw hole but I'll check tonight when I get home. Right now I'm thinking that I could drill and tap the front cover and locate the degreed tab in the proper location. I'll get back to you tonight. Thanks Mark in Portland

Update on pulley swap I changed the pulleys. I now have the larger 2 sheave pulley on the L24. With the engine on #1 TDC the single mark on the pulley is about 1/2" to the right of the pointer on the cover. Not a big deal. Same plan as before, either find a degreed timing tab for the front cover or re-mark the pulley for the proper timing. Mark in Portland

Your advice makes perfect sense. I remember the poor idle voltage in my first Z. Using the larger pulley really is the right way to go. The radiator is out of the car, easy access, Now I have to track down a thin wall socket to remove the crank bolt. My impact sockets are too thick. The timing markers are a potential problem, I don't have the timing tab that goes on the L26. The front cover tab on the L24 is a pointer and the pulley from the L26 has one timing mark. Either I track down a L26 degreed timing tab or after making sure that the 2 marks line up on #1 top dead center, file new timing marks in the pulley. Anyone got a timing tab from an early L26? Thanks for the advice, Now I'm off to find a socket. Mark in Portland

I think we'll need the definition of "pretty solid". One of the easiest ways of defining "pretty solid" is with an ice pick or other sharp implement of destruction. The force of your poking and or stabbing is directly proportional to the strength of the remaining steel. As far as the pitted sections, just normal bodywork and paint. Good luck and wear gloves. Mark In Portland

I bought a project 260Z a few months back and I'm sorting out what I have and I need help with harmonic balancer I.D. Now for a little background. The previous owner bought the 74, not running, with a reported blown head gasket. He pulled an engine from a 75 Z and installed it and couldn't get it running. I'm now discovering why. The original engine came as a spare with the car. Here's where it gets interesting.The original engine [spare with the blown HG] is a L26- #072285 P30 with a E88 head. The engine in the car, pulled from a 75, is a L24 #125191 with a E88 head. Back to the balancers, The balancer on the L24 is a three sheave pulley and has 5 timing marks. The 2 inner sheaves are 5" OD. Outer sheave is 5 3/4" OD. It has a 1/2" setback looking at the front and the bolt is recessed in a very tight hole. The balancer on the L26 is a 2 sheave pulley with 1 timing mark. The inner sheave is 5 7/8" OD and the front sheave is 5 1/4" OD. with a 1 1/4" setback and the bolt head is exposed. My alternator has a 3" OD sheave. My choice is to drive the alternator with a 5 7/8" pulley or a 5" but at this time I don't really know if either is correct. And just to confuse you a little more, I have a Series 1 available for parts. Mark in portland

I don't know the paint code but I did stumble upon a website[Jeff Lilly Restorations] that has info on all types and brands of different colors of silver spray and their different uses. Well worth checking out. Mark in Portland

I read the reviews. As expected, some swear by them others swear at them. A question that arises in their use is continuity to all parts of the chassis or the lack there of. The only one I've seen installed is on a Scarab. It is driven on a very limited basis in dry weather and stored in a very dry shop. It came on the car so the owner doesn't know anything about it but he has left it on just in case it does work. There seems to be two types of these that supply a trickle of current through the chassis. Ruststop.net advertises a unit that adds sacrificial anodes to the system that are attached to the chassis and wired into the unit. Honestly, I don't know if this is an improvement or just more smoke and mirrors. I tend to think that adding anodes to the mix could improve it but I don't have the expertise to really know. I don't plan on abandoning any rust removal or treatment of the conventional type, just want to try to improve on the longevity of my second Z. I still have my first Z, a Series 1, if anyone needs goodies from it. Mark in Portland

I was told a long time ago that all drivers who are slower than you are idiots and all drivers faster than you are maniacs. Funny thing, the percentage of maniacs dropped to almost 0 after I bought my first Z. It seemed as though all those maniacs had morphed into idiots. I still encounter them to this day. Drive safe and have fun. Mark in Portland

It's time for a volt-ohm meter. Start at the battery and follow the power to the fuse block. If you have power to the fuse block, check individual circuits to their destination. I'm a bit surprised that you have brake lights but not headlights. There are only a few circuits that are not switched on with the ignition. Anyway, don't let the project scare you. I haven't heard my 260Z run yet either. What a celebration there will be when it's running. Mark in Portland

I ran ATF in my SUs for decades and never had an issue with it. I suspect that one could tweak the mixture a bit and get ATF to work. Truthfully I don't know why it worked on mine. Perhaps because I am a bit obsessive when it comes to keeping SUs clean and tuned. I never had a reason to try anything else. I've seen many opinions on carb oil, I'd like to hear some input from people that have used different weight oils. Mark in Portland

I'm inclined to agree with all of you. Has anyone tried any of those rust preventers that run a trickle of current through the chassis either with or without sacrificial anodes? Some people swear by them, others swear at them. I'm assuming the supplied trickle of electricity is a substitute for the wet conditions that would normally drive the galvanic process. Testimonials, Anyone? Mark in Portland

Has anyone ever tried sacrificial anodes attached to the inside or outside of the frame rails to ward off rust? They could be made of zinc, magnesium or aluminum. In the shipyards they use zinc ingots cast with steel straps that weld onto the hull. They had to be replaced every few years due to the effects of salt water corrosion but on a car they should last a long time. Also, any thoughts about the use of cold galvanizing spray as a bare metal primer? My 74 S30 project will be going up on stands soon so I can finish opening my holiday present, Then I'll find out whether I got gold or a lump of coal. I've tried many rust treatment products over the years with dissapointing results. This time, it's going to be phosphoric acid to convert the rust, if I can't remove it, and a topcoat, as yet not selected. If possible, I'm going to include an anode to prevent new rust from forming. I'd like to hear anyone's thoughts about the idea or any products already out there that could be used as a sacrificial anode. Mark in Portland

Welcome.There's plenty of information here, as well as people who love to share it. I wish you luck and patience in your search,The amount of rust that you will have to contend with, will depend on the depths of your wallet, time and talents. That said, what on earth is driving you into Z addiction? If you think there is a way out, you are sadly mistaken. The term Z rehab is for the cars, not the owners, Think twice, It may not be too late....But if it is too late, a Z in the snow and ice can be great fun. they don't use salt on the roads here. Mark in Portland

Sorry for the missed opportunity. Have faith, another one will turn up. I mlssed out on a few before I realized that to get one, I had to have cash in hand and move on it before anyone else had the chance. Although I didn't end up with the 240 I wanted, I did find a 260 that has 92,000 miles, a little rust and 2 engines for $1350.00. I don't know how far you'll go for a Z but if the Pacific Northwest is an option let us know what you want and we will keep an eye out for one. Right now I know of a 260 in a barn south of Portland. Mark in Portland