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Mark Maras

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Everything posted by Mark Maras

  1. I hope Mike can prevent this B.S. in the future. If not, I hope there's no limit on how many one can add to the ignore list. Mine is growing daily.
  2. @siteunseen redrilled the float pivot tangs on one of his 3 screw carbs so he could use identical needle valves like the 4 screw carbs.
  3. Kind of a stab in the dark but the Mulholland springs I put on my 240 back in the day were yellow.
  4. My first layer was spray can flat black. No heat used on that layer, just eye protection. I did use a heat gun and chisels on the base coat as well as stripper on the difficult to scrape areas.
  5. I tried a large razor blade too. Then I tried a wide Harbor Freight wood chisel. It worked as well as the razor blade but was much easier on my hand.
  6. Take a look at Plasti Dip. I've not tried it but it seems like a good way to coat the tabs.
  7. Cliff, you're absolutely right about the nozzle hoses. They have to be very flexible. I installed the silicone hoses from Ztherapy. As far as fuel height goes, a while back I became curious about an actual measurement from the carb bridge to the desired fuel level. In the British forums I found that 3/8" was the desired distance (it doesn't have to be exact) including round top Hitachis. Using the fact that one turn of the nozzle screw equals one mm and 3/8" equals 9 5/8 turns, that (or close to it) should be the fuel height according to the Brits.
  8. The choke cables can remain disconnected unless you need the choke for starting the engine. There's a flat bar linkage that attaches to the nozzles that pulls them down into the choke position. Pull the nozzles down using the choke linkage and then raise them back up using the linkage. If the nozzles don't go back up, lube the nozzles and try it again. If they work fine and aren't sticking check the float levels. If the nozzles still don't return, check the mating surfaces of the flat bar linkage. Often times the linkage piece need to be twisted to align the ends with their mating surfaces. Unfortunately, I've not been able to check the alignment of the linkage piece or straighten it without removing the carbs.
  9. There's a few possibilities. The nozzles could be partially down due to misadjusted choke cables, misaligned choke linkage or sticking nozzles. The next possibility is the float levels are too high. The easiest method for checking the float levels I've found is to remove the domes and pistons. raise the nozzles to their top position (0 turns) and lower the nozzles 9 1/2 to 10 turns. If you want to be precise 9 5/8 turns down, that puts the fuel level 3/8" below the carb bridge. The fuel level should be close to the top of the nozzles but it doesn't have to be exact. Raise the nozzles back to 2 1/2 turns down for a near stock engine at near sea level.
  10. Let's open these questions up to members who are much more knowledgeable than me. My thoughts are, if you go with a header, go with a ceramic coated one. According to Cliff his carbs stay cool. Unfortunately, I know even less about switching to a 60 amp alternator except that it seems to be recommended when using elec. fans, especially two of them.
  11. carpartsmanual.com shows the bumpers being the same from Sept. 74 to July 76. Shock part #s are 62210-N4200 and #62211-N4200. Aug. 76 on the shock #s are 62210-N4701 and 62211-N4701. It's time to get the build date on Jai's Z. Hopefully that will narrow it down.
  12. Thanks. I'll keep that in mind. Jai's bumper is also damaged on the left side too. She's hoping for as close to pristeen as she can get.
  13. Use a weak magnet and go over all the body panels to determine if any have been previously sculpted (hatch damage) instead of repaired properly.
  14. Yeah , both shock to bumper and shock to fenderwell appear to have a different bolt pattern. If I was installing it, I doubt it would be much of a problem. If it was mine I'd be installing 240 bumpers. I wonder if this is one of those parts that changed mid-year? I think it's time to contact Redwing and ckurtz2 and compare the bolt patterns on the 76 chassis and the 77 bumper.
  15. I agree. The problem is with the insurance co. wanting to pay as little as possible.
  16. As the title states, I'm trying to confirm if a 77 280 front bumper is a bolt-on replacement for a 76 280. Jai (Redwing) needs a front bumper, ckurtz2 has one that needs a home. Jai has seen pics of it, wants to go ahead with the deal, but her insurance co. wants to be sure it's an easy (bolt-on) swap with no modifications. Any info on the subject would be appreciated. Thanks. Mark
  17. Orwell was correct. "Big brother is watching".
  18. I recently talked with Jai (Redwing) about her 76. It needs a new front bumper due to a slight accident. She lives in NW Georgia (Chatsworth, Ga). It sounds like her insurance is going to pay for it, so I assume they'll also pay for shipping. I'll contact her about the price but I don't have a clue about the shipping cost. Let me know how we can get the bumper(s) to her and the shipping cost. Thanks Mark
  19. My uneducated guess would be literally cutting off the source of hormones that can have a negative effect on behaviour.
  20. It's been a number of years since I was into a clutch slave cylinder but as I recall the rod pushes directly on the piston, not on a piece of black plastic.
  21. I suspect the "round black cup" is a seal to keep the piston in the cylinder and is supposed to be removed before installation. I'd contact the dealer or manufacturer.
  22. My first guess would be a leaking intake valve seal. You might be able to visually inspect the seals with the valve cover off and a bright light. I'd do a compression test on all the cylinders to see if #1 is significantly (10%-15%) lower than the others.
  23. I'd mic the crankshaft journals and the cylinder walls before making a decision.
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