Mark Maras

It looks like something a pellet gun could cause. Is the paint original or a re-spray?

I too am guilty of using Series 1 &2. but using Type A &B is going to launch the same discussion by the same people because Nissan didn't use that designation either. I'll continue to use the Series designation because it is descriptive enough for U.S. Infidels.

I wrapped the ratchet straps under the car and over the roof.

I've used two folded towels against the glass, two 2x4s on the towels, and a ratchet strap or two to push the glass in.

Glad to hear you're doing well. You'll be in my prayers.

I'd start with a valve adjustment then a dry compression test followed by a wet compression test.

It can be reached from the right side with the car on jack stands and long tools.

Fender well, below the battery.

Hopefully, someone can tell Jalex how to test the fan coupling. After my coupling froze up I replaced it with a flex fan. There don't seem to be many flex fan fans around here but it was, IMO, an improvement over the stock fan. Nowadays I would probably go with an electric fan.

A temporary solution is to turn off the engine when you're not moving. Yes. you may have to restart it to move 20' before you turn it off again but I used this method for years in hot weather and traffic jams. It prevented overheating. Idling builds engine heat. BTW, what type of fan are you using?

Jalex's NGK plug wires are almost new. I like the idea of replacing the dizzy. Will the coil he's currently using (snort) be OK with the new dizzy?

Don't touch it if you don't have trouble starting it in cold weather.

Loosen the two choke cable screws on the carbs, push the choke knob to a centimeter from closed, and tighten the screws. You state the nozzles are up. Was that a visual check or a Braille check? That little flat-bar linkage piece that pulls down the nozzles can warp and bind the nozzle in the down position,

@jalexquijano When the choke knob is pushed into the off position are the nozzles pushed all the way up? Use a mirror to check them.

I always adjusted my choke cables to end up with a little slack before they pulled the nozzles. My reasoning was I wanted that extra bit of slack to push the nozzles all the way up even if the choke knob wouldn't go all the way to the off position. That did prevent the cables from pulling the nozzles all the way to the bottom but even here in the NW I rarely needed full choke in the winter.

Dry ice may do the trick. Freeze it and chip it off.

So, hooning is similar to "Hold my beer"?

Snake oil for valve trains. I've tried a few in the past and been disappointed with the results but a mild cam seal leak and a severe rack and pinion leak on our 97 Outback (spare car) made me dig deeper. After watching many snake oil reviews I decided to try AT 205. This stuff is amazing. Project Farm confirmed this on YouTube. I added the recommended amount to the power steering and engine oil. Although the car gets driven less than a thousand miles a year, it's been almost 2 years and I have not had to top up either reservoir. I haven't tried it on old rubber grommets and bushings but it may revive those too. The only negative reviews I found were from some Toyota owners stating that it removed the paint in the oil pans causing a blockage in the oil pick-up screen

If the smoke dissipates quickly it's most likely coolant. If it hangs in the air for a while it's oil smoke.

I bought a Worx pressure washer a few years ago. 1800 p.s.i., 1.5 g.p.m., 115v. It's a good unit.

The old rod will work fine if it's the same length as the new one. If you haven't removed the clevis pin yet, try turning it 180 degrees and wiggle the pedal.

You may have #1 at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke. Try rotating the crankshaft 360 degrees. The cam lobes will both be up at the end of the compression stroke and the rotor location should be better. Plug wires, 153624.

I don't remember the model. It was probably built in the 40s. It didn't roll, it went down an embankment backward, bucket up, dug in, and flipped on its backside, like an upside-down turtle, which explains my fear of the nose lifting on my Z. Turn one at Portland International Raceway. 120+, the steering is best described as turning the wheel and wondering how long it will take to turn. That was fun learning to steer with the throttle.

The wipers may lift at high speeds but at least they're slow too.

Years ago I had my bone stock 240 on a few race tracks. The rise and fall of the front end during acceleration and braking was annoying, but the rise at 120 mph + was frightening until I was confident the car wouldn't blow over backward. Part of that fright was PTSD from a previous experience in an Euclid dump truck that went down a collapsed bank in reverse and ended up on its top.