Mark Maras
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Everything posted by Mark Maras
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Older people do it because they grew up with carbs that had accelerator pumps and automatic chokes that didn't work very well when they got old.
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A big pipe wrench and a floor jack on the end of the pipe wrench is what I used after trying to be gentle with the fill plug. It chewed up the plug a bit but it came out.
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It was a fun day in , almost a Deja Vu moment meeting Cliff face to face. Instant good vibes. Thanks again for the ride from the airport. IMHO, Nissan was pretty brave or foolish for placing that beautiful original Z next to the new Z. Is there anyone one the face of the earth that thinks the new Z looks anywhere as good as the original?
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Too bad they didn't solve it by installing a cross-flow head. SUs on one side, exhaust on the other.
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I'd guess it's a used replacement.
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I'm impressed but I'll stick with a chainsaw for something that tough.
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Starting Carb Conversion: Flat Tops to Paltechs
Mark Maras replied to Dadsun's topic in Open Discussions
I'd start by disconnecting the two linkage rods with the plastic ball ends and operate the three linkage assemblies from the gas pedal up to the carbs independently. Hopefully you'll be able to isolate the problem. As an alternative, if you haven't lubed all the pivot points yet, you could start at the pedal and start oiling all the pivot points one at a time until you find one that may be binding. -
Looking at the pics it looks like the clutch disc lining is worn down to the tops of the rivets. I see what I think is a few shiny rivets. If it's down to polishing the rivets, it's time to replace it along with the release bearing and pilot bushing. And, "as long as you're in there" having the flywheel resurfaced or even lightened.
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They can be a multi-tasker. I've used mine to pull stubborn shrubs and laurel hedge and lift a riding mower to clean-out the deck. Now I'm considering mods to convert it into a firewood splitter.
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I have a H.F. engine hoist that folds up and doesn't take up much space. Years ago I pulled and reinstalled my 240 engine using two 2x4x8s, garage rafters, a one ton cable jack, jack stands and the Z jack. I unbolted everything under the car, lowered it, hooked up the cable jack to the engine, finished unbolting the topside, lifted the engine a bit and rolled the car back as I lifted the engine. It sounds like a PITA but it all went well.
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Starting Carb Conversion: Flat Tops to Paltechs
Mark Maras replied to Dadsun's topic in Open Discussions
Does the linkage operate smooth without the springs? -
There should be a very small gap (just enough air for idle) between the butterfly and the carb housing if the linkage is correct and the choke linkage isn't opening the butterfly a bit for cold start. The only way the pistons will lift is by the engine drawing air past the butterflies.
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Are the pistons up or down when it's running? If they're up it would indicate the butterflies are open. If they stay down it would indicate an intake leak.
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I can't imagine an intake leak large enough to idle an engine at 4,000 rpms. When you say the throttle is all the way closed, are you referring to the throttle pedal or the carb butterflies? I think your butterflies are partially open which would indicate something is wrong in the linkage. Mine did the same thing one time when I forgot to hook up the heat shield springs.
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I don't lift the carb pistons. I remove all the spark plugs, adjust the valves, turn the engine over with the starter until the gauge shows oil pressure, install the c gauge, open the throttle all the way and turn the engine over until the c gauge needle won't go higher. I always start with #1 and the #2-#6, then I repeat #1. Frequently the reading on #1 will improve slightly because of increased oil circulation after repeated engine revolutions.
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At 4+ turns down you got backfire out of the exhaust during acceleration, then you leaned out the mixture and got backfire from the carbs. How many turns did you lean it out?
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I don't know who that would have been. @zedhead used to live in Portland, maybe he knows.
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I've removed the studs with a piece of hardwood and a big hammer. Reinstall the lugnuts and pound on those, not the studs.
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It seems to me that the reason that carb isn't pulling any air is either linkage that isn't opening the butterfly or the piston is stuck at the bottom. Have you checked both of those?
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I (we) went back and got a better look at the white 240. It turned out to be an early 260 with a sunroof and possibly a missing cowell. The little of the body that I can see looks straight. Being a 260 kinda took some of the wind out of my sails as well as Kathy reminding me I've already got an unfinished early 260. If anyone is interested in it, it's on Foster Road near I-205 in SE Portland. I have the address and the owners name (who doesn't sell anything according to a neighbor) if anyone out there is interested.
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Have you checked the fuel filters inside the banjo fittings that are on the top of the float bowls? They could explain fuel in the fuel lines but not enough entering the bowls. Carbs really don't need much fuel pressure. They'll even run fine using a gravity feed.
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240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Georgia
Mark Maras replied to 240ZBUILTBYME's topic in Build Threads
I've used my table saw table and emery cloth for truing flat surfaces. -
Or are they fish-eyes? They can be caused by Silicone, wax or oil under the paint.
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Most carbs have accelerator pumps that squirt an extra bit of gas to enrich the mixture when one pushes on the gas pedal. Round top SUs don't have an accelerator pump as Charles stated. Try starting it without the choke and if it doesn't start right away gradually give it more choke until it fires.
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4 1/2 turns down surprises me. Seattle, Portland and Salem are all within a few hundred feet of sea level and to my knowledge, 2 1/2 turns down has been the standard for anything near sea level. I'd look into rechecking the float levels and identifying your needles.
