Mark Maras

Does Beck-Arnley offer that kit?

Gradually pull the choke on when it's stumbling. If it improves, the stumbling is from a lean mixture. Was the detonation a backfire out of the carbs? I'd also pull a spark plug to check the color.

Beck-Arnley had a good reputation for quality in the past. I'm going to assume their quality is still good. I'd go for it, but I'd disassemble both cylinders and clean the bores. Be sure to tell us if you find any swarf in them. Have you changed the valve seals yet?

Pull the rubber boots from the ends of the cylinders. If there's brake fluid inside the rubber boots, the cylinder is leaking. In the past I've found that if I only replaced the one leaking cylinder (slave or master), the other cylinder didn't last long and had to be replaced or repaired. Now I replace them both at the same time.

Hard chrome is frequently used on steel shafts, rollers, cylinders, etc. I doubt you'll see much wear, if any, on hard chromed butterfly shafts. In the past I've found oil lite bushings to be very durable as long as they are oiled regularly.

If it was mine, I'd get it running with the Webers for now. There's plenty of things to change after you've gone through your list.

They look like American Racing Vectors.

I may be one of the few that remembers good products from JCW. A loooong time ago I bought a complete wire harness and fuse block for a 1939 Chevrolet Pick-up. All wires, wire lengths and connectors were perfect. Just remembered, there was also a six-volt wiper motor that replaced the old vacuum mechanism.

4.5-9 psi seems way to high based on my experiences with OEM carbs. Am I to assume the newer aftermarket carbs can handle that much pressure?

It's also a good idea to check the clevis and clevis pin for wear.

I thought the towel bar was there to protect the front.

They used to be called towel racks.

If my memory is correct, the Buick top was from a Skylark. Question for those in the know? Did Nissan and Toyota share some body panels back around 1984? The reason I ask is, I parked my son's 84 Camry next to a Nissan ? of around the same year. I was amazed to see that both trunk lids appeared to be identical. I confirmed it by measuring both with a dollar bill..

I'm guessing why they changed the body style after one year has to do with shared sheet metal with other GM brands. My old friend's dad was a hot-rodder back in the sixties. He bought a 64 GTO that had been rolled. Everything was repairable with the exception of the top. He couldn't find a top for a 64 GTO but he did find that a 64 Buick top was identical except for some added chrome strips that came with the Buick top. It was a perfect fit.

There's no film on the rear glass that I'm aware of. There is a narrow protective coating on the defroster grid lines.

I removed the tint film from our Subaru. The film used on the rear, over the defroster, was much thinner than the tint film used on the side windows.

Every carb I've ever dealt with could take 3.5 psi. I'd let it idle for a while and check for signs of flooding before taking it on the road and check things under the hood a few times on the first trip. Always a good idea to pack a fire extinguisher too.

The float valves should be able to handle 3.6 psi. If they can't, there may be a problem with the needle or seat in the valves.

There was nothing but sheer joy being able to put faces and get to know some of fine people on this forum. We all have more in common than our love of Zs.

I must admit, the thought did cross my mind. Especially with access to the supplies. Back to the loyalty oath. It had nothing to do with security. On the contrary, it had everything to do with insecurity.

Wow, you're good. Check printing, credit card embossing along with all the paperwork that banks used back then. Curiously, later on as I tried other occupations, I ran into that same loyalty oath in the upper management. That was one of the things in my life that drove me to study Behavioral Psychology. I found the answers to a lot of "Abby Normal" behavior there.

Thanks, but No Thanks. I waded into the corporate world of banking and manufacturing when I was younger. I started to run into superiors? that asked me for a loyalty oath. That told me all I needed to know. Long story short, I found that creating something with my mind and hands, as well as treating others as US rather than THEM , to be far more satisfying than chasing money and power.

Mr,?

I don't see the need to remove the head. Either way you'll have to come up with a valve spring compressor. IF, the compression is satisfactory in all cylinders, leave the head on. Removing it may open a Pandora's Box of broken bolts and studs. The rope in the cylinder and the lever action spring compressor is the easiest method of changing the seals. Watch several different videos until you can't find anything else to learn and then go for it. That's what I do.

4-5 psi fuel pressure may be too much pressure for the float valves. 3-3 1/2 psi is all the carbs need. I'm assuming the 5 psi occurs at higher RPMs.