Mark Maras

I've seen faint spider webbing on those casting in the past but nothing as prominent as those and never in those locations.

No problem with welding heavier sheet metal to thinner. I prefer welding thick to thin than thin to thin. I'd remove both floor pan frame rails first and assess the damage to the floor pans. The welded repairs in pics #3 & 4 suck.Those welds will need to be removed and redone properly. Remove the undercoat and rust from those ares and you'll have a better idea of what you'll want to do.

Looking at its current state, in my mind, it's begging for a hook of some sort, attached to my slide hammer with a lot of heat around the edges. Beer is optional.

Metal to metal is usually the brake shoes scraping the drums caused by no brake lining left on the shoes. It "sounds" like it's time for new rear brakes and possibly a drum turn if they look rough.

Describe the noise. Squealing, metal on metal scraping, intermittent noise that matches drum rotation? You will need to pull the drums and visually check it all out.

Compression looks good. My theory on advanced ignition timing (detonation) causing oil smoke is the fuel mixture is igniting before the pistons reach top dead center. This would cause excessive pressure on the rings allowing oil to blow by. I'd back off the timing or increase the fuel octane to ELIMINATE all pinging and or detonation and drive it. Detonation will eventually destroy rings.

Interesting. I wish I could help but I'm in the dark too.

Probably but flashers and relays are two different items. The flasher is the component that switches the hazard signal on and off. It is also the source of the on and off noise. It's located under the left side of the dash and is likely along side the turn signal flasher.

RedWing had the same problem with no blinkers on her 76 when the hazard switch was on. I believe she repaired hers with a new hazard light flasher. O'Reilly's sells them.

Use a stethoscope or my favorite, a 4' piece of 1/2" garden hose, to locate the source.

They're one of the easier to refresh transmissions that I've encountered. Maintaining the orientation of the disassembled parts (especially during cleaning) was always my biggest concern. I like to use wooden dowels to keep things in order.

I've used a towel in the past.

I'd start with #1, the wobbly crank pulley. It probably has slipped. It shouldn't wobble. I haven't had one come apart under power but there are some horror stories out there about the damage that can happen.

It's weird that it's running out of fuel at idle and climbing a hill. The two scenarios are at opposite ends of the fuel usage spectrum. Assuming we're dealing with a mechanical pump, I think I'd pull the valve cover, take a look at the eccentric fuel pump drive on the end of the cam (it could be loose) just to rule out that possibility. Where is the fuel filter that runs dry located?

I'm probably over simplifying (or complicating) this but unless the physical distance between the cam gear and the crank gear changes, the slack in the chain remains the same. The slack will change temporarily while adjusting the cam timing unless the cam is rotated a bit.

I'd test the fuel pump for proper pressure and volume first.

When did the problem start? Before or after you worked on the pump and carbs?

You'll save time and end up with a better looking valve cover if you remove it first. If you leave it on you'll end up cleaning whatever polishing compound you use from adjacent parts. Besides, it's probably time to check your valve adjustments.

True. Back in the day we used offset keys to retard the cam timing and improve top end performance in drag racing engines. Years ago when replacing a timing belt on a Camry, I was sure I installed it correctly until I fired it up and drove it. Rushed job due to miserable weather and working outside. The cam timing ended up retarded by one tooth. The poor little 4 cylinder would struggle with low end performance BUT when it reached 4000 RPMs the power came on like gangbusters. It acted like the 12A in our RX7. It just wanted and loved more revs. I drove it for a few days until the weather improved and I could redo it. I was a bit disappointed after the repair. It was a lot of fun driving it with the cam retarded.

The jets should be 2 1/2 turns down, or so, at rest. I'd adjust the one that is all the way up down 2 1/2 turns and adjust the other one to the same depth which will probably be less than 2 1/2 turns down. They should run like that if the float levels are correct.

I've had better luck using good (not HF) channel lock pliers than vise grips to grip stubborn bolts, nuts, and studs.

Has the Z been sitting for a while? I'd start by pulling the caliper with the stuck piston and refresh (new o-ring) it first. Chances are the other caliper needs it too. Any possibility the calipers are on the wrong sides? The bleeder screws should be up not down.

@Robert9790 Portland, Or. Craig's List "1976 Datsun 280z - $7500". Post id 6973601510. Interesting Z. It's an injected automatic but if the body is good it's reasonably priced. I hope the sidewall ventiports (Buick's name for them as I recall) and other decorations on the fenders are just glued on. The wheels are A.R. Vectors.

Super glue on the hand grips?

My experience with a clogged filter was on I-5 doing 70 + mph when the car slowed to 45 mph. It would still rev normally with the clutch in but wouldn't go over 45 mph no matter what gear I was in. Thru the entire experience the engine sounded normal, no cotton ball sound.