Mark Maras
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Everything posted by Mark Maras
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Has the Z been sitting for a while? I'd start by pulling the caliper with the stuck piston and refresh (new o-ring) it first. Chances are the other caliper needs it too. Any possibility the calipers are on the wrong sides? The bleeder screws should be up not down.
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@Robert9790 Portland, Or. Craig's List "1976 Datsun 280z - $7500". Post id 6973601510. Interesting Z. It's an injected automatic but if the body is good it's reasonably priced. I hope the sidewall ventiports (Buick's name for them as I recall) and other decorations on the fenders are just glued on. The wheels are A.R. Vectors.
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Just saw this, amazing but not Z related.
Mark Maras replied to siteunseen's topic in Open Chit Chat
Super glue on the hand grips? -
My experience with a clogged filter was on I-5 doing 70 + mph when the car slowed to 45 mph. It would still rev normally with the clutch in but wouldn't go over 45 mph no matter what gear I was in. Thru the entire experience the engine sounded normal, no cotton ball sound.
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When it lost power while driving would the engine still rev briskly with the clutch in?
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What is insanity to some is job security for others.
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Yeah, that could complicate things.
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If you're talking about just the frame rails under the floor pans and not the ones in the engine bay it would be relatively easy to fab. your own. I bought my floor pan rails from ZedFindings and would do it again. Reasonably priced and excellent quality.
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Don't disregard automatic Zs. Looking at Zs over the years I've found the automatic Zs are usually still in better shape, a better chance that they were garaged sometime in their life, usually were driven less spiritedly and don't cost quite as much. It's really easy to convert an automatic to a manual in Zs and the used parts aren't very expensive yet, especially if you go with a four speed. Carbed Zs ended with the 1974 260Z. Anything after that was injected.
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Cliff beat me to it. What's missing in the description of the car is the most important item. Body condition, specifically RUST. Any visible rust is only 10% of what you'll find when it's opened up. The hood on this one appears to have rust bubbles on the nose of the hood. That's a particularly difficult spot to repair.
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That's right. Out is down and rich, In is up and lean. We'll avoid the terms clockwise and anti-clockwise. Nice that you were able to clear it up with a 1/4 turn. In post #2 I wasn't sure if it was too rich or lean. I thought it was probably too rich (I assumed the plugs were a tan color) so my suggestion at that time was to lean it "Up a half turn".The choke test confirmed it wanted to run a bit richer. Congrats on getting it idling properly.
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Thanks. If you notice a slight lag at the onset of acceleration (possible because you leaned it out a bit) you may want to try using 20 wt. oil. It will richen the mixture when you first hit the gas.
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I'd try gently massaging? it back into shape. Thinking about it a bit more I'd probably try something similar to pulling a bow string. The hood being the bow. Perhaps clamps on the two corners with lines anchored below. Then a jack in the center to gently push up. The worst that can happen is finding out what doesn't work (failure is the road to success) and have to source another hood.
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If the mixture screws are within 2 1/4 - 2 3/4 turns down it indicates the float levels are close if not spot on. Great news. Random question. What weight oil are you using in the carbs?
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Plugs are looking good. I actually thought it might be running a bit rich. The SU chokes are a great way to check for a lean mixture. How many turns down are the mixture screws now?
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The line is continuous but is much less defined where it passes over the rear wheel arch. Both sides were the same.
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More info please. Stock cam? How well does it idle when the engine is cold with the choke on? Describe "perfect color" plugs or better yet, pics. Are the metering needles stock? My first guess is it's running rich at idle. That's assuming that as the humidity is rising, so is the temperature. If the plugs are a nice tan color like we used to try to attain in the good old days the mixture is likely rich. Plugs run nearly white with today's fuel. Assuming it's had a recent tune-up, including a valve adjustment, I'd put in a new set of BP6ES plugs, and lean the mixture adjustment nuts a half turn up and see if it improves.
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I'm going to guess it's the brake master cylinder. Pull the rubber boot off the end of the master cylinder to see if there's brake fluid in the boot.
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Soak the whole assembly in EvapoRust.
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Scotch Bright is an excellent choice. You'll want to confirm the proper float setting in the new, to you, SUs.
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I hope the "quick sand on the nozzles" means you'll be using something akin to 0000 steel wool, not sandpaper. A thin coat of lithium grease will keep them sliding. Keep in mind that the fuel level in the float bowls is the PRIMARY mixture adjustment. Ztherapy has an excellent DVD "Just SUs". You'll be an SU expert after watching it.
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Assessing Manual Transmission Condition
Mark Maras replied to Randalla's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Take a good look at the brass baulk rings. The teeth, when new, are pointed and sharp. The 2nd gear synchro will show the most wear, 3rd gear synchro a bit less. If the 2nd gear synchro looks good the others should be fine, although I have encountered broken baulk rings that looked good except for the crack. I've refreshed a few different transmissions in the past. GM T10s, Ford top loaders, Toyotas, etc. These Datsun transmissions aren't difficult to refresh. A thorough cleaning, new synchros, seals, gaskets and bearings are my usual refresh. I also use a dowel to keep the parts in order. Keeping the parts in order and oriented properly in the cleaning process will save a lot of time and headaches later. -
Any idea of the wire gauge? I'd make some using 9ga. galvanized smooth wire. It's avail. from any fence co. that installs chain-link fence.
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Picking up a 1977 280z 6 Hours Away. Tips?
Mark Maras replied to BayAreaZ650's topic in Open Discussions
I agree that looks about right but you won't know for sure until you measure the temperature of the coolant when it's hot. -
I'd weld a big nut on it.
