Mark Maras

Yes they do sound like a wounded seal, even the new ones.That's the best description yet.

I doubt the problem is in the carbs. Both carbs rarely go bad at the same time and the engine will run (or try to run) on one carb. I'd start with a fuel pump check. Fuel pressure and fuel volume need to be verified. The test is available in any Z repair manual and a gauge can be borrowed from a parts store. No fuel to the float bowl possibilities are; clogged banjo filters on the carbs, bad mechanical fuel pump, Loose eccentric that drives the mechanical fuel pump, plugged lines, it's possible you also have an elec. pump and filter back by the tank. If so both should be serviced, Rust, flotsam and jetsam in the tank blocking the line is common.

They look the same as on my early 71 (late 70 build date).

I don't have it in my 401Z stash. You might want to inform the local Datsun and Z clubs in the NW. Craig's list might be worth a shot too.

I've used several layers of paper towels soaked in Evapo-Rust, then layed the wet towels as flat as possible on the vertical? rusty surfaces and covered the towels with Saran Wrap. (does anyone use that term anymore?) I checked the progress and re-wet the towels using a spray bottle as needed.

Don Kirshner introduced pure bubble gum music with cartoon band members because the Monkees got uppity and wanted to play their own music. Thanks for nuthin' Don.

I agree. It looks custom made. The welds they look OK but not professional.

If the Nissan bushings aren't available, others have reported using Dorman part #38397. I believe it's a door hinge bushing for a Mopar.

My original roll bar had flanges that bolted to the shock tower tops and another set that bolted to the front of the fender wells. I had to drill those holes. I wish I remember the manufacturer but that was 45 years ago.

I'd also check that the valves are sealing by pouring solvent into the intake and exhaust ports (with the valves closed) to see if there's any seepage past the valves. I'm curious if #s 5 and 6 have a slight leak.

II don't think sudden consumption was one of the symptoms unless I missed it.

You describe the black soot in the cylinders as oily and yet I don't see the oil sheen in the pics. The pics look like sooty cylinders from running too rich. Stick your finger in the tailpipe and take a sample. Is it reasonably dry black soot or is it wet, oily black soot? I'm leaning toward no oil pressure problem (new engine) and it's running extremely rich. Also the fact that it started running lousy in short order rather than gradually getting worse, like fouling plugs do, seems like this is a mixture problem. That said, the oil pressure is something I'd keep an eye on.

I think I'd try shortening the nut (temporary fix until the proper one can be sourced)) or drilling a new hole in the new location if there's enough space to do so.

Check the battery voltage with the key off, the engine idling and again at around 3000 rpms. Battery voltage should be around 12.75 with the key off. As Cliff noted around 13.5 volts at idle and 14+ volts at 3000 rpms. As far as the old battery not starting the car after 20 mins. of driving, there's a few possibilities. 12 volts Instead of 12.75 (discharged battery) , poor (corroded) electrical connections, a tired old starter, a faulty alternator, loose alternator belt or any combination them.

After grinding and sanding, I normally I use a wire brush, lacquer thinner, and Zinc rich primer.

Installing a warped head with a way to pre-straighten it during installation would seem to be an improvement over torquing down a warped head. Any apparatus I can imagine would have more mass and weight than the head.

Your battery should read around 12.75 volts with the engine off. 12 volts is too low, it needs charging.

Jai says she's seen a puddle under the car in the past. I'll tell her about the drain line. That sounds like the source of the water. Thanks

Jai says it wasn't raining and she rarely drives it in the rain. The AC was on at the time. I'll ask about the puddle.

I'll find out and report back.

I talked with Jai (redwing) last night and she brought up an odd thing that happened in her 76 280. When she was going around a left hand sweeper turn at a bit more than cruising speed about a half cup of noticeably cold? (not tepid) water landed on top of her right foot. The odd thing is she thinks the water came from the right side, as in from behind the radio. She says the heater core has been removed to make room for the AC. She also says that she has a shut off valve plumbed into the heater hoses under the hood. She states @siteunseen has a picture of her set up. The question is in two parts. First question is where is the source of the water. Second question is how does water end up coming from the right side while turning left. Centrifugal force should have moved any water to the right side of the car not to the left.

and Bondo.

Some brands of u-joints will allow you to remove both caps after you've pressed one out. Other brands will necessitate pressing the joint the other direction to remove the other cap from the outside like the first one. Although I've never compared the two I suspect the difference is in the outer dimensions of the cross.

Keep pushing on it until the cap on the other side can be removed. If the u-joint has a zerk fitting, it may have to be removed for clearance.

When making gaskets a paper punch is the best tool for punching out the bolt holes.