Mark Maras

Search "Quick and dirty SU tuning". @240260280 put it together. As Zed Head stated above, start with a thorough tune-up using 240260280's method to eliminate the obvious. Not you @Captain Obvious we could never replace you.

"The present world system is based on a conceptual framework where owning represents an investment of our life, our time, our name, our character, or any other aspect of our being, for the sake of control over the thing owned. It's difficult to realize the depth of devastation this has brought to humanity, but every historical record that presently exists attests to the visible devastation wrought in wars of conquest and subjugation of peoples for the sake of ownership!"

My early 71 had the knurled knobs. It was a PITA to access the jack and tools anchored under the plastic hinged cover.

Looks like it could be original maroon Naugahyde. I don't remember maroon seats in a Z.

My first thought was, balderdash! Never heard of that much damage occurring in one day. But, when reviewing the pics again, the cracks look new. Old cracks typically swell as the cracks grow.

You're fortunate to live near the left coast. There were a lot a Zs sold here and quite a few a still around. The biggest concern being rust, I'd try to find one that spent its years west of the Rockies and east of the Cascades and Sierra Nevadas. The farther south, the better. I'd also consider one with an automatic trans a major score, only because I think A.T. Zs were treated better than their M.T. cousins. I'd immediately put a 5 speed in it tho. Good luck.

I like the "clean the wheel and remount the tire" solution. You likely will see the problem when the tire comes off.

The choke should move the nozzles first. The butterflies open a bit later in the choke actuation to increase the cold idle a bit.

It's also possible the throttle shafts are worn and pulling in a bit of air but worn shafts would affect the idle. Let us know what the pistons are doing, if anything.

Hi Geoff. Glad to hear the SUs are doing well. A fluctuation in RPMs, at steady throttle, is a sign of a lean mixture. Based on the lean condition theory, I'm assuming one could see the pistons rising and falling a bit during the fluctuation. Have you ever taken a look at the pistons when it's idling? What weight oil are you using?

I thought about the throttle plate. I didn't think about the long tube entering into the scenario. Both logical explanations but why is #6 10 lbs. lower? Maybe that was the first cyl. checked and it didn't have oil pressure yet?

Something else struck me as odd along with these timing issues. In post #13 after adjusting the valves, cylinders 1-5 were at 130 and #6 was 120. To my knowledge, those #s should be up around 170 or so.

Well, In an emergency, but little beyond that. The size of the pellets in some stop leaks make me wonder how much ends up plugging cores rather than stopping a leak in a specific place. It's probably my own ignorance of how the product works. Years ago I used a silver powdery stop leak that worked very well. I seem to remember the name being Silver Solder Stop Leak or something like that.

Does the clicking frequency increase with vehicle speed? Does the noise go away if you turn going 10-15 MPH or does the noise change when you tap the brakes? (Thanks Charles)

Is it possible we'll see a Z in a future Flex Seal commercial? Repairing the leak with Flex Seal might be worth a try as a temp. fix. If it works, imagine what could be next, rockers, doglegs, wheel arches, floors, and frame rails all bonded with Flex Seal products. Fame and fortune in commercials could be just a stupid idea away.

????????????????

Tighten the plug ends, clean and swap #6 for one of the others that looks good and try it again to see if the problem is gone, still #6 or moved with the plug. Does the engine miss, at steady throttle, occur within a particular range? Say 3000-3500 RPMs but not at 2000-2500? I know little about DGAV carbs but I have a Haynes Weber book that may give us a clue. Fault diagnosis, Engine lacks performance; incorrect tuning adjustments, incorrect float adjustments, excessive sediment in the fuel, acceleration pump seized and throttle valves do not fully open. My gut feeling is tuning and float adjustment will clear it up. The DGAVs are very adjustable, much like DCOEs. It would be a good idea to get a good manual for them.

Jim, have you considered using epoxy on the crack to repair it?

I'm curious if one could throw the coupler into boiling water to make it a bit more supple and then put a good hose clamp on it?

So how does one get the stop leak out of the radiator and heater core at some future date? Doesn't the stop leak restrict the coolant flow?

I could turn my 2.4 engine by hand using the fan belt with the plugs in. It wasn't easy but it could be done.

Mine was #14. Picturing in my mind an overhead cam with rockers vs a Fiat with the cam on top of the valves. There were several questions that were a bit unclear.

Getting back to the first problem, was the loose spark plug connector on #6? If the compression is good on #6, the reason for the misfire lies in the plug, plug wire, cap or rotor and or any of the elec. connections.

There were quite a few flathead (L-head, valves in the block) engines back in the day. I'm most familiar with the Ford flatheads. I don't remember the particular question now but I evidently got it right.

Back in 1967 we had a discussion on this subject and came to the conclusion that when "it" could be taxed, "it" would be legal. That took 50 years on the left coast. A lot longer than any of us imagined. What's stopping it from legalization in Bama?