Mark Maras

Something else struck me as odd along with these timing issues. In post #13 after adjusting the valves, cylinders 1-5 were at 130 and #6 was 120. To my knowledge, those #s should be up around 170 or so.

Well, In an emergency, but little beyond that. The size of the pellets in some stop leaks make me wonder how much ends up plugging cores rather than stopping a leak in a specific place. It's probably my own ignorance of how the product works. Years ago I used a silver powdery stop leak that worked very well. I seem to remember the name being Silver Solder Stop Leak or something like that.

Does the clicking frequency increase with vehicle speed? Does the noise go away if you turn going 10-15 MPH or does the noise change when you tap the brakes? (Thanks Charles)

Is it possible we'll see a Z in a future Flex Seal commercial? Repairing the leak with Flex Seal might be worth a try as a temp. fix. If it works, imagine what could be next, rockers, doglegs, wheel arches, floors, and frame rails all bonded with Flex Seal products. Fame and fortune in commercials could be just a stupid idea away.

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Tighten the plug ends, clean and swap #6 for one of the others that looks good and try it again to see if the problem is gone, still #6 or moved with the plug. Does the engine miss, at steady throttle, occur within a particular range? Say 3000-3500 RPMs but not at 2000-2500? I know little about DGAV carbs but I have a Haynes Weber book that may give us a clue. Fault diagnosis, Engine lacks performance; incorrect tuning adjustments, incorrect float adjustments, excessive sediment in the fuel, acceleration pump seized and throttle valves do not fully open. My gut feeling is tuning and float adjustment will clear it up. The DGAVs are very adjustable, much like DCOEs. It would be a good idea to get a good manual for them.

Jim, have you considered using epoxy on the crack to repair it?

I'm curious if one could throw the coupler into boiling water to make it a bit more supple and then put a good hose clamp on it?

So how does one get the stop leak out of the radiator and heater core at some future date? Doesn't the stop leak restrict the coolant flow?

I could turn my 2.4 engine by hand using the fan belt with the plugs in. It wasn't easy but it could be done.

Mine was #14. Picturing in my mind an overhead cam with rockers vs a Fiat with the cam on top of the valves. There were several questions that were a bit unclear.

Getting back to the first problem, was the loose spark plug connector on #6? If the compression is good on #6, the reason for the misfire lies in the plug, plug wire, cap or rotor and or any of the elec. connections.

There were quite a few flathead (L-head, valves in the block) engines back in the day. I'm most familiar with the Ford flatheads. I don't remember the particular question now but I evidently got it right.

Back in 1967 we had a discussion on this subject and came to the conclusion that when "it" could be taxed, "it" would be legal. That took 50 years on the left coast. A lot longer than any of us imagined. What's stopping it from legalization in Bama?

I'll bet it was # 14. Cam on top of the valves.

When you get the cooling system repaired, give it a complete (including a valve adj.) tune-up. Tracking down the source of future problems will be a lot easier if you know the basics are good.

I wonder how a 240 bumper would do against a new car that has no bumper. A lot of cars have large plastic panels attached with plastic clips. The crumple zones might mitigate the damage to the other car. Hopefully not a Z.

Excellent. Mechanical repairs are a piece of cake compared to rust treatment. Technically, I suppose, the PO didn't lie. It was a running and driving car. How well did it run until the freeze plug let go?

Use the rubber expansion plug as a temporary fix until you're ready to pull the head. Share some of the gross lies the PO told you. We've heard a lot of them but who knows, maybe there's a new one.

Did you interchange any of the parts (pistons, suction chambers, etc.) from one carb to the other?

If you haven't installed the pilot bushing, bearing, slide it onto the input shaft just to be sure it fits. Same advice for a new clutch disc. VOE.

1964, fifteen years old steel wheels and a slab of plywood. While racing a friend down a hill (no skate parks yet )I caught a rock doing around 20 MPH and slid and slid and slid. Ah, the memories of road rash and worse.

A little side to side is normal. The pilot bushing, bearing in the end of the crankshaft aligns the input shaft.

Rev the engine to above 2000 RPMs and check the voltage again. It should rise to 14 + volts.

Sacrilegious!