Mark Maras

1964, fifteen years old steel wheels and a slab of plywood. While racing a friend down a hill (no skate parks yet )I caught a rock doing around 20 MPH and slid and slid and slid. Ah, the memories of road rash and worse.

A little side to side is normal. The pilot bushing, bearing in the end of the crankshaft aligns the input shaft.

Rev the engine to above 2000 RPMs and check the voltage again. It should rise to 14 + volts.

Sacrilegious!

If anyone is interested in this Z, I can take a look at it. It's in my side of Portland about 10 mins. away.

1973 Datsun 280ZX! Well, at least they got the first half of the description right.

Since the car has been sitting, plugs out, for some years and you've used Acetone to break it loose, it would be a good idea to squirt a little Marvel Mystery Oil (or equivalent) into the cylinders, turn the engine over using the starter (plugs out and valve cover off) until you verify good oil pressure and the cam is being oiled.

Found a pic of one at datsun1200.com/bridgestone The only description on the pic is Texas.

You may want to consider eliminating the manifold heater if the parts are unobtainium. The earlier 240s didn't have it and I drove a 71 daily, summer and winter, for a couple of decades, I doubt that you need it. Many later 240 owners have eliminated it on the theory that it may add to fuel percolation, heat soak or vapor lock problem.

I'm going to go the other direction and suggest that it may be running rich at idle. Is it possible it's as simple as a stuck nozzle or choke out of adjustment?

My 71, #08750, had the seven blade metal fan.

Are any of the missing bolts laying in the bottom of the door?

Words of wisdom from Matsuo San.

I was talking about welding. I have little to no experience with brazing but it would have been my Dad's first choice for this repair.

I agree with ZH. Probably carbon and residual unburned fuel that is causing the run on. It could be a rich mixture (carbon in the cyls.) that is the root of this problem. What do the plugs (color) look like? I can't see why DCOEs would be any different than SUs if both are properly tuned.

I haven't used Time-serts in the past but I have used Keen-sert inserts. They're made for high strength joints in low strength materials, like aluminum transmission housings.

It will work just fine. Ford Model A's (and others) had a lever on either side of the steering wheel. One for ignition timing, the other was a throttle. Are you going to mount it next to the choke?

I'd try driving it if looks roadworthy and it's been driven recently. A shop manual, basic tool kit, mechanics wire, and duck tape should get you back to Sacto.

Very nice for $1200.00.

9:55 PM on the left coast.?

Bling! None of us even come close to RossiZ. He has chromed hood vents on his 280.

That's the question that starts the conversation. I'd guess the front one is from sometime in the 70s. The dip in the center is reminiscent of a 36 Ford bumper.

That old front bumper deserves a place on a wall. Great conversation piece.

In the first post, you mention "completed the basic fuel mixture setting on the SU's 2 1/2 turns down". The 2 1/2 turns down is a secondary, fine tune, adjustment. The float height adjustment is the primary mixture adjustment.

The only way an engine will rev is more air. I agree with the air leak theory. The backfiring out of the carbs confirms a lean mix but I'm going to play Cap'n O here. Have you installed both throttle return springs? They hook onto the heat shield below the carbs. I forgot them one time. Your description jogged my memory.