Mark Maras

Halfway between the start of piston movement either direction. TDC should line up with the largest mark on your vibration dampener or timing tab depending on the year. To get it exact, "back in the day" we used a piston stop and a degree wheel. There's probably something electronic that will find it by now.

Pulled some part #s from carpartsmanual.com 1968-1973. rear upper rh 82400-21002 rear lower rh 80420-21004 spring 80422-73001 rear upper lh 82401-21002 rear lower lh 80421-21004 Check out sgnauto.com. I ran the first two #s. They list the upper hinge for $27.00. Lower hinge is $97.00. I didn't go farther than that. The business appears to be wholesale only. Not an insurmountable hurdle, IMO. Haven't found any on Craigslist yet.

What year is Cody's wagon?

@PatconWhat years will work and which three are we looking for?

Might be a good question for Matsuo San.

Years ago I cut up a couple of 11ga. steel fence ties (galv. steel wire) to use as the pins. Painted the exposed tip. Worked great.

Ford, IBM. There's a long list

Rule #1, DON'T BEND THE BRASS NEEDLE that protrudes from the piston bottom. Start with a can of lacquer thinner, a soft brush, and some cotton rags. Clean every surface that you can reach. All those black surfaces in the pic are actually aluminum. When everything is clean reassemble the piston and dome onto the carb. The piston should slide up and down with no interference. Add 20 wt oil or ATF to the fill line on the small black stem. It might be a good idea to take a look in the float chambers to see if there's any flotsam or jetsom in there.

Ditto. Is the coil wire to the dist. putting out a good hot spark or do you mean you have 12 volts going into the coil? If you've got a hot spark at the coil wire, the points look good and are adjusted properly, replace the condenser.

Don't know your height but I'm 5'7" and my knees hit the bottom of the steering wheel when using the brake and the clutch on my 521.

Charles is correct. You will have oil everywhere when you start it without the valve cover, IF it's not plugged up. But, IMO, it's a good idea to visually check the spray pattern to be sure the cam is getting oiled. I had an oil tube that was gunked up internally and sprayed little oil. It had to be cleaned out with lacquer thinner and the holes cleaned with a torch tip cleaner before it would oil properly.

"To Serve Man". The very best ending to a Twilight Zone. Thoughts on Utopia. When I was young, I felt that way about old people. Anyone over thirty just didn't get it. Now that I'm almost seventy I realize that it's kids that screw up Utopia for the adults.

Cross firing.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

I'd never "bundle" plug wires the way I see in the pic.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Looks like an afterthought to me.

Just cause you can, doesn't mean you should.

I had one that had bonded the shoes to the drum. After a lot of frustration and no success, I screwed the lugnuts on flush with the stud ends and with the help of a 4 lb. hammer and several blocks of wood the studs came out. That allowed me to tip the drum back and forth and finally break it free from the shoes.

My old Mopar friend cleaned his 56 Fury lenses with steel wool and shot them with clear years ago. No adhesion promoter and they still look great.

The pot-metal? lock barrel seems like a good item to submit to an Aluminum 3D Printing Service to see if a group buy is feasible.

Windows 7, Chrome. My screen looks like Grannyknot's.

I haven't used Soft Seal. A quick search says it's for unfinished metal surfaces and dries to an amber color. Instead of the Soft Seal how about spraying the interior with a clear finish (epoxy, your choice) to add to the protection and not screw up the reflectiveness of the unit.

I'd wait to see the Doc. They're probably just flashbacks.

Been there, done that. I drilled a hole in the ends of the crack, ground a vee in the crack, preheated with a butane torch, welded the crack with nickel rod (I've also used rod for stainless steel) and buried it in dry sand to let it cool slowly.

I've never seen or heard of them. Do you suppose that they go in that indentation in the rocker alongside the seats in the 240's?