Mark Maras

Don't know your height but I'm 5'7" and my knees hit the bottom of the steering wheel when using the brake and the clutch on my 521.

Charles is correct. You will have oil everywhere when you start it without the valve cover, IF it's not plugged up. But, IMO, it's a good idea to visually check the spray pattern to be sure the cam is getting oiled. I had an oil tube that was gunked up internally and sprayed little oil. It had to be cleaned out with lacquer thinner and the holes cleaned with a torch tip cleaner before it would oil properly.

"To Serve Man". The very best ending to a Twilight Zone. Thoughts on Utopia. When I was young, I felt that way about old people. Anyone over thirty just didn't get it. Now that I'm almost seventy I realize that it's kids that screw up Utopia for the adults.

Cross firing.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

I'd never "bundle" plug wires the way I see in the pic.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Looks like an afterthought to me.

Just cause you can, doesn't mean you should.

I had one that had bonded the shoes to the drum. After a lot of frustration and no success, I screwed the lugnuts on flush with the stud ends and with the help of a 4 lb. hammer and several blocks of wood the studs came out. That allowed me to tip the drum back and forth and finally break it free from the shoes.

My old Mopar friend cleaned his 56 Fury lenses with steel wool and shot them with clear years ago. No adhesion promoter and they still look great.

The pot-metal? lock barrel seems like a good item to submit to an Aluminum 3D Printing Service to see if a group buy is feasible.

Windows 7, Chrome. My screen looks like Grannyknot's.

I haven't used Soft Seal. A quick search says it's for unfinished metal surfaces and dries to an amber color. Instead of the Soft Seal how about spraying the interior with a clear finish (epoxy, your choice) to add to the protection and not screw up the reflectiveness of the unit.

I'd wait to see the Doc. They're probably just flashbacks.

Been there, done that. I drilled a hole in the ends of the crack, ground a vee in the crack, preheated with a butane torch, welded the crack with nickel rod (I've also used rod for stainless steel) and buried it in dry sand to let it cool slowly.

I've never seen or heard of them. Do you suppose that they go in that indentation in the rocker alongside the seats in the 240's?

You didn't mention if you found any foreign matter in the rear float bowl chamber or the needle and seat. My thought on the front carb acting up is, it has now picked up some crud like the back one. I'd start by cleaning the float chamber in the front carb, reset the floats to the recommended level, reset the nozzles to 2 1/2 turns down, use a Uni-Syn to balance the carbs. As it's been running kinda poorly, I'd also change the plugs, and reset the valve clearance too. Basically, a complete tune-up to eliminate any other possibilities. It's also possible that the nozzles are sticking in the down position when the choke is off. With the choke lever off, reach under the carbs and push up on the nozzles. If you feel the nozzles move up, lube the outside of them with some lithium grease. It may start better, for now, by using no choke and part to full throttle to compensate for the extra gas.

I've either cleaned them or replaced them if the needle tip shows wear. The problem is likely crud in the needle and seat. Check the filter in the banjo fitting while you're disassembling things again. Have you made any carb adjustments since the problem started?

The U district was a fun place to hang out "back in the day".

I'm surprised it's that easy. A Bill of Sale as proof of ownership? Oregon DMV wants a lot more paperwork than just a Bill of Sale.

I've always used anti-seize thread lube.

I've used Mr. Gasket RTV for years. Probably the orange sealer that Cliff described.

Got to thinking about how I'd go about making one. I'd use several wraps of wire instead of the tape and heat the cable next to the wire clamp to spread it out.

It must have been another. I remember the tape and the 45` flared end. Same idea though. If I had a strut tube to clean out, I'd try this first.

@240260280z