Mark Maras

@jalexquijano Do you have a fan shroud? If not, that would be a good addition too.

Did that name come from Scottie after Jim tried to over rev the warp drive engines?

I don't have a pic at this time but I do remember that along with the flex fan there was also a 3" spacer that fits between the water pump and the fan to locate the fan about an inch or so from the rad. The spacer was supplied by the fan manufacturer. Later today I'll try to pry the hood open and get a pic and measurements for you.

There's a couple of things in the article that I find difficult to believe. The vented hood came before FI and the percolation problem was solved with the change to FI.

Imho, an auxiliary fan will help but the hot air needs to be vented, otherwise, the fan will just be moving around hot air. A combination of a fan and vents will work much better. The vents can be a late 280 hood or cutting louvers in the side access panels by the hood. Another idea for consideration is a flex fan. The vast majority of our members think flex fans suck, and that may be polite. My experience with one was good. I installed one on my 71 when the OEM fan clutch seized. One of the first things I noticed was it took longer for the temp. gauge to rise in traffic, which told me the fan was pulling more air at idle than my original metal seven bladed fan. I also liked the way the blades flattened out around 2000-2500 rpms. My original plan was to go back to the OEM fan set-up but the flex fan worked so well that I ran it for another 20 years. One of the things that still bothers me about the OEM fan clutch is everyone that I've ever spun by hand felt different. The resistance was never the same.

@jalexquijano Happy New Year Buddy. Glad you coerced the gauge back into working condition again. A word of caution. The problem will reoccur and too many thumps on the plastic faceplate will eventually crack it. V.O.E. Don't want to hijack the thread but how's your Z running these days?

Welcome. I'd look into the SU's. Pull the plugs and check the color. Verify that plugs 1 - 3 are the same color as 4 - 6. It sounds like the engine is running too lean. Check the float height on both carbs, oil level and check the balance.

and if it's less than 14.5, it"s a bad alternator.

Hmmm. I wonder if ABS (home printer) would work for this part?

Series 1 wheel chocks should be the solid ones.

16g.butt weld, I'd shoot for about 1/32" gap. You're correct in needing a good light. Everything (sheet metal, welding gun) has to be aligned perfectly when you pull the trigger. I've been welding for years but the precise sheet metal butt welds forced me to buy an auto darkening hood. I found that my old method of nodding my head to lower the old hood would throw off my aim just enough to miss the seam when I started welding.

Try adjusting the butt weld gaps to get full penetration. Almost no gap for thin sheet metal. I try to keep the gap on the narrow side and turn up the settings to get full penetration. One other tip, well two. An auto darkening hood will make your life easier if you don't have one and when setting up the welder the first thing I try to achieve is an instant arc. No wire pushing, no hesitation, just aim, pull the trigger and weld. This is usually a little hot but with narrow gaps, the welds penetrate and lay flat.

All this started with a pic of Bruce's auto-Darthening hood.

Arlo said the same thing when the song's fiftieth anniversary was coming up. He said he had to go back and relearn it.

Arlo said the same thing when the song's fiftieth anniversary was coming up. He had to go back and relearn it.

Litter'in (parts under the bed) and creat'in a public nuisance and they all moved back.

I call that, Sweet Dreamz.

Pics or it didn't happen. I think I heard that from someone before.

Said the Captain as everyone backed away and started whispering to each other while pointing to the anomaly.

Not me. I like the bottom in your pics and it will still look great in twenty or thirty years.

Not a chance. The gorgeous bottom in your pics will look the same in twenty or thirty years.

Bottom porn.

PM sent

I'd try to drill or ream the splines out of the insert and leave it in place.

Googled "throttleshafts,greencoating". The green coating appears to be Teflon. Here is one business that coat throttle shafts, Orion Industries, orioncoat.com. There are probably more.