Mark Maras

@jalexquijano LOOKIN GOOD. The plugs are definitely lighter than we used to run the "back in the day" but you report the engine is running good so I'd leave it alone. I think the problem with #4 was in the cap, rotor or plug wire connection. #4 definitely looks better now. The lighter plug color could be due to modern gas formulations as reported by others. I'm still curious about that previous lower compression reading. I'm hoping it was a poor test and not tight valves. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the reminder. We never did get to the bottom of that. @jalexquijano What about the low compression readings the last time around? My assumption is it was either a botched compression test or the valves were set to tight. Do you have an explanation?

I don't remember compression readings that low. Probably just me. @jalexquijano What were the compression readings the last time they were taken?

@jalexquijano Note the louvered access flaps alongside the hood. Those will help dissipate engine bay heat when the car is sitting. One could accomplish the same thing with a vented late 280 hood. As I recall, RossiZ's late 280 has both.

IMO the slow response in first gear is the nature of the beast and is likely made a bit worse with the upgraded camshaft. I'm assuming that around 3000 RPMs it starts pulling strong. A lighter flywheel could help it a bit in the lower RPMs but a heavier flywheel is better for stop and go traffic.

I see painted divots. Looks like it had rusted prior to a repaint.

CLR for the sending unit. A 48 hour soak will convert it from scrap metal to a usable unit.

I soaked a corroded stuck valve in CLR. After soaking it for 48 hours the valve moved easily and sealed.

and we promise we'll try our best not to tell you to go buy more new plugs.

@Lumens He didn't mention #4 still having problems. I asked about #4 just to satisfy my curiosity.

@jalexquijano I'm assuming you mean it won't start without using the choke? Will it start using 1/2 choke or even 1/4 choke? You may not need full choke to start it. Too much choke, even for a few minutes, can carbon up the plugs and exhaust. How well is running these days when it's warm? Any more problems with #4 or did the cap and rotor fix it?

@jalexquijano Have you ever tried starting it without the choke when it's cold? If not, give it a try. I'm curious how well it will run and drive under those conditions.

@smackhq Really, it's gone? I haven't been over there today but it's still in inventory on their website.

@smackhq Just got back from Pick-n-Pull, Portland south. 111th and SE Foster. They've got a 77 sitting there with the running gear intact. I noticed that it still had the AC compressor attached to the engine. Injection is gone as well as much of the interior. The valve cover was loose so I looked inside. Aside from a few spots of very light surface rust on the lobes it looks good. It has had regular oil changes judging from the total lack of sludge. Dash is gone so no estimate of the mileage. Harmonic balancer was gone or I would have tried to turn it over. The hood is off, manifolds are off, everything is disconnected. The engine is just sitting there begging to be pulled. PnP engine price is $197.99 with a $29.99 core charge. Estimated time from Kent to Portland about three hours. Time to pull the engine and get it into a transporter, less than one hour, with my help, if desired. Now the sad part of the story. The body has little rust. Battery area has a small spot of surface rust. Hatch latch panel is near pristine. Floors look good. Frame rails look good. Tire well looks good. Doglegs look good. A couple of bubbles in the door bottoms. It's really a shame. I have three Z bodies and this one is in better shape than any of mine.

I think I'd try using some Caig DeoxIT on all the connection points.

Smush, Smush.

@jalexquijano DON"T TAKE THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT. Don't oil anything. For now, Just replace the distributor cap, rotor and #4 plug. I still want to know if any other plugs were sooty. If you used too much choke or left it on too long the the last time you warmed it up, it's likely that all the plugs look like #4. #1 Don't fix what ain't broke. #2 Check the other plugs. #3 Replace the Dist. cap, rotor and #4 if it's the only one that 's black. #4 Be sure that all the wires are fully inserted into the cap. #5 Drive it and report back.

@jalexquijano Did you look at any of the other plugs? It would be a good idea just to confirm the rest look OK. If they look good I'd just replace the cap, rotor and # 4 plug. I don't think I'd spray anything just yet. If five of the six plugs look good the problem is narrowed down to the cap, rotor or plug wire, assuming the compression is still good. Do you have access to an ohm meter?

@JackT Check out page nine. It has a description and the part #s used in the V-3 mod. Relay A-25235-PO100. Relay B-25230-89915

I got lost when you explained this. Can you expand on this theory? I've always believed that a precise fuel level was critical in all carbs. Now I'm wondering how large the fuel level "grey area" is. Perhaps @Bruce Palmer can help us out. I believe he said the optimum fuel level should be just below the nozzle tops at 2 1/2 turns down.

Google "oil can dent fix". Don't turn your body-work into sculpting.

Too bad he didn't take a measurement of the drop. I've been puzzling about the distance the nozzle drops below the fuel level when the choke is applied. At the tail end of Jalex's fix, the Cap'n brought this subject up when I was trying to get Jalex to set his fuel level just below the nozzles at 2 1/2 turns down. I believe that Jalex's fuel level is lower than the nozzle tops and it seems to run fine. I'mm left with the opinion that there is a grey area in the fuel level that works just fine for the street. Opinions?

Probably not too weird if you don't own the car or bought it to flip it. However, he or she states "my 1981 Datsun 280z". A true owner-driver would know the difference, IMO.

I test drove a Tiger back in the mid seventies. Already had my Z and thought I'd like to own a Tiger too. After taking the owner for a spirited drive up and down Germantown Road and scaring the pi$$ out of the owner, I decided to pass on buying it. The snap over-steer dictated that one could not relax and drive the car at speed. I probably would have bought it if I hadn't had a Z to compare to. The Tiger gave me the impression that neither the car or I would have survived for long.

@jalexquijano