Mark Maras

Wood cribbing is still the go to method for supporting large items. Working under a ship on dry dock that is supported by wood cribbing will make one a believer. Yeah, they still support them that way.

The lack of Pacific Northwest moss around the windows indicates that this one has been stored inside..

Ditto on the NW rust. It's can be very selective. I saw a 70 a few years ago that had a left rear quarter that had a 24" x 1 1/2" hole above the wheel arch and yet all the usual rust spots were pristine. In the NW, that would indicate that the car was under a carport with the left side exposed to the wind and rain.

The description implies that they don't stay on and he doesn't want to be liable for the hubcaps striking other vehicles or they're not for human consumption. Hubcaps on an off-road? Z?

@jalexquijano OK, now that I've primed my brain with coffee it's started functioning. After installing new plugs and using DeOxit did you start it without the choke? I'd like to hear about your start-up and warm-up procedure on this trial.

Welcome to the world of "I wish I know what the hell I did to fix it." That's why I like to change one thing and then test. I had to learn it the hard way too. Congratulations. Drive it and let us know how it's doing after a few days so we can start the celebration.

Of course it looks that way. With the choke on the fuel mixture is mega-rich. The reason I want you to put in new plugs and start it with NO CHOKE is I suspect that you're using too much choke and fouling the plugs before you ever get on the road. Yes the engine will lack power while it's warming up. Just baby the throttle and keep it running (with no choke) until it's warmed up, then take it for a drive.

You'll find out WHY when you change them.

@jalexquijanoI think a new set of plugs is a good idea. Let's remove those from the equation. The old ones may be screwing with the results of your tests.

@jalexquijano Keep an eye on the post dates. Some of the ones you're responding to are inactive now. If you want to flag someone you need the @ symbol before the person's name. Click on the person you want to flag from the pop up list and it's done. I think you're right. It's time for a new set of plugs. This may sound a bit random but humor me. Have you ever tried to start the engine without the choke when the engine is cold? When you put the new plugs in, try starting it with no choke. If it doesn't start in the normal length of time, give it 1/4 choke and try again. No Start? Go to 1/2 choke, etc. I want you to cold start the engine with the least amount of fuel (choke) as possible. When it does start, baby the throttle but keep it running at a busy idle. You may need to blip the throttle now and then when the idle starts to drop. Warm it up enough to drive it. Hit the road and let us know how it acted. The more detail the better, starting with how much choke was needed to start it.

@jalexquijano 240,260,280 and I are meeting up tomorrow. I want to discuss this with him and see if the two of us can come with a consensus of opinion.

I'd start the process by pouring hot (not boiling) water on the area in question with the hopes that whatever is holding the glass will soften. At that point a little careful poking and prying may reveal the chink in it's armor. It may be a good idea to bring the glass up to temp in a couple of stages. Thermal shock does nasty things to glass.

There may be a commercial product. In my original notes I have a reference to Thor Tire Prep #12. As I recall, this product has wintergreen oil in it. I haven't done any research on the product.

I'm going to give this a try. The theory of the solvent, as I understand it is, the solvent was supposed to soften the rubber (which it does, sometimes overly so) and the w. oil is supposed to keep the rubber from drying out again.

Interesting I've tried a mixture of wintergreen oil and Xylene at room temperature for varying lengths of time. My results varied with the condition of the rubber but none of them were what I would have called fabulous. Mine were more in the reusable category. Yours are fabulous. What was the other oil that you used and which oil was the 4 oz.? BTW, good job on the videos.

What were you playing, Robin Trower?

I'm thinking of a combination of the two. They could have put that old mechanical sound on the beginning of CDs. Perhaps now one could add it to streamed music.

We'll get back to the fuel level, I just want to know how it runs now to use as a baseline for further adjustments.

@jalexquijano If it were me, I'd fire that thing up and see how it runs and drives cold and warm before altering anything else. I've learned that one step at a time and see what effect that one step had is the best way to learn diagnostics. Might take a little longer but I've experienced the, "I'm glad I was able to fix it. Now I just wish I knew what fixed it" too many times.

@siteunseen At least one of the questions has been settled in the churning cauldron of symptoms and trivial facts that I call my brain. I was almost positive that it had to be too lean when it was cold, but then that creeping doubt set in. @jalexquijano Good job finding that loose clamp. We could have beat our heads on this cold sputtering problem for a long time and not gotten anything except a headache.

@jalexquijano OK. If the engine is cold, fire that baby up and see how it runs now. Take it for a ride and report back. I'm on the edge of my seat. @siteunseen Tick Tock, Tick Tock. As the official timekeeper, how much time do I have left?

That doesn't help. I don't know what your reference points are. let me put it another way. However you can do it, the measurement that would help us, is the distance from the fuel surface to the top of the tube that the nozzle slides in. The brass tube surrounds the nozzle. BTW if you turn the mixture screws CCW, (Jalex's term for leaner), to zero turns, the tops of the nozzles will be even with the top of the brass tube. I would think it would be easier to get a measurement with the choke lever pulled all the way back which pulls the nozzles all the way down. If you can come up with that measurement, we can all get back to the unsettled, at least in my mind, question of the proper float height , and as C. O. brought up, how critical is the float level in SU's? We can also eliminate one of the cold sputtering causes.

Even if the toothpick falls into the hole, it will float. There's no need to reset the mixture screws back to 2 1/2 as long as we know how many turns down they are during the measurement.

I hope that works, that would be great. If not, you could try sticking a toothpick down the hole until you hit the fuel surface and then mark the toothpick at the top of the nozzle or the top of the brass sleeve that holds the nozzle. Measurements don't have to be in the thousandths, Mm's would be fine.

@jalexquijano Good pics. I think I see a pinpoint of light reflection in the nozzle holes. I assume that pin point of light is the surface of the fuel. Can you confirm that and that both levels are approximately the same? Also, is it possible for you to determine the distance from the top of the brass ring that holds the nozzle to the current fuel level? Or, how far below the nozzle holes is the fuel? Either approximation will work.