Mark Maras

Hope you get it. Whatever you pay, it'll be worth $5,000.00 more in a year.

If it's as clean and rust free as it appears, it will be a bargain at almost any price when compared to any Z that has rust and the costs involved in body repairs. Get the best one (body wise) you can afford. Prices are going up rapidly and the trend is now including 280's. I'd be shocked if one that clean didn't go well over 24K.

I don't know, I've wondered about that too. Saw it on a couple of TV shows. They appeared to degrease and lightly sand whatever finish is on the old vehicle. Usually it's a combination of paint and rust which is still rusty red color, not acid treated black. They knock off the loose stuff, get it smooth enough to paint and shoot it with clear to preserve the "patina". These were all cars and trucks that were from a time when the steel was thick, even the sheet metal. It took a long time for rust to do any substantial damage back then. They also had real steel bumpers that could take a bump. These were prior to 240 bumpers which should have been called denters.

A dust color choice would be nice. They're clear coating rusty surfaces, maybe dusty surfaces next.

Stop trying to set the floats by measuring them. You're getting focused on something that can be bypassed and ignored. Put away all types of measuring tools where you won't be tempted to use them. The 1/16" below the nozzle tops at 2 1/2 nozzle turns is the goal. The fuel level in the nozzles is the same as the fuel level in the float bowls. Get the fuel at 1/16" below the nozzle tops and the fuel level in the float bowls will be PERFECT. Even if you thought you had the floats set right by measuring something, to be sure they were correct, you'd pull the domes, pistons and check the fuel height in the nozzles 1/1/6",nozzles, 2 1/2, adjust nozzles, nozzles, floats, mixture, nozzles, 2 1/2, nozzles. Whoops. My LP is getting worn out and starting to skip. I'd hate to start sounding like a broken record.

Cliff (Siteunseen) recommends RTV. It will work just fine. Keep adjusting to get that 1/16". I predict that you're going to be so quick and so good at adjusting floats that you'll be the one giving advice in the future.

If the Heli-Coil is too long and interferes with the sealing surface, they are available in different lengths. I've fine tuned the length of them before installation in the past.

Go for it. You could also attach the G3 to the existing fuel pump filter. You can't have too many filters.

OMG. Someone frame post #29. This is the best news I've heard. says Mark hesitantly. Could we be getting close? I think I'm going to start celebrating.

Have you looked for a totally rusted out but reasonably complete 510 and join the two?

Thanks for the trip in the Way Back Machine. 1970, BST concert, in the Seattle Center. We got front row seats right in front of the horns, the stage was about 4' high and about twenty feet away.

4.3 p.s.i. won't supply any more gas to the carbs than 3.2. The carbs only take as much fuel as the engine can use. The needle valve in the float chamber shuts off the fuel when the fuel reaches the preset float height and only dribbles a tiny amount into the float chamber to keep the fuel at the preset float height while you're driving. Stumbling, popping and sputtering is NORMAL behavior in a cold engine with little to no choke, even in Panama. These symptoms could actually be a very good sign that your engine isn't running too rich. And if you're going to tell me that you didn't have to use the choke before, forget it. It ran like crap before. Two questions for you. Does the engine run and drive reasonably well when it's cold with the choke on? How does the engine performance feel when the engine is warm and the choke is off.

Don't adjust the idle. Use the choke when the engine is cold, That's what it's for.. Your description of a problem, ISN"T a problem. Does it run OK cold with the choke on?

Jalex, I'm curious about something. Who convinced you, or how did you convince yourself, that 3.2 p.s.i. isn't enough fuel pressure? We used to run an econo-rail dragster with a 327 c.i. V-8 Chevy and a Holley carb. with 3 p.s.i. Roughly twice the cubic inches as a Z and the 327 was always run at full throttle. There was never a fuel starvation problem.

IMHO, Absolutely perfect. Stance, height, offset, finish, you nailed them all. Can you give us more info about the wheels, tires, springs and shocks?

Step 1, Read post, # 31. Step 2, Put the calipers down. Step 3 , Floats installed, Remove the domes and pistons. Step 4, Using a flashlight, visually determine the fuel level in the nozzles. Step 5, Adjust the float tangs up or down until the fuel levels in the nozzles are 1/16" below the nozzle tops. Nozzles are 2 1/2 turns down during this procedure. Also, after each adjustment, move the floats up and down to ensure smooth operation, remove a little fuel from the bowls, reinstall the floats, crank the engine over or start it up for a few seconds to fill the float bowls to the new level. Recheck the fuel level in the nozzles.

No need to run the car for two minutes. In reality you just need to fill the float bowls to the new setting. if you're lowering the float setting be sure to remove some fuel from the bowls so they can refill to the new level. If you haven't readjusted the floats just pull the lids and measure with a caliper and readjust. I've not used the 10 turns down previously but here's my understanding of the 10 turns vs the 2 1/2 turns. 10 turns down should be an accurate method of setting the fuel height. My assumption is when the floats are reinstalled they displace the fuel raising the level to 2 1/2 turns down. Now for the big IF. If all floats displace the same amount of fuel, the fuel level will rise to 2 1/2 turns down in all float chambers. I doubt if all floats are equal, especially 45+ year old floats. The final goal, after using whatever method one chooses, is to visually check the fuel heights in the nozzles at 2 1/2 turns down.

Thank you David F. @jalexquijano This what I've been trying to explain. It works.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm assuming the 10 turn down method is viewed with the float cover removed and the 2 1/2 turn down method is with the floats installed. More assumption now, that would mean the installing the lids (floats) would raise the fuel level in the bowls about 7 1/2 turns. is this a correct assumption or am I missing something?

Bruce beat me to it. Thanks Bruce. Let's try this. It may be an easy way to support the floats while checking the height. Remove the gasket from the float cover. You'll be using the lid surface for your float measurement reference point. Cut two strips of something flat (plastic, card stock, shim stock, etc,into strips about 3" long. One strip will be 9/16" wide, and the other 5/8" wide. With the float lid inverted, insert the 9/16" strip under the unsupported end of the float, resting on the lid gasket surface and blow thru the fuel inlet fitting. The 9/16" strip, then the 5/8" strip. Adjust the float tangs until there is air flow past the needle and seat using the 5/8" strip but no air flow using the 9/16" strip. Hopefully the 5/8" and the 9/16" strips will act like a go, no go feeler gauge. This method should work for getting them close. We'll check the fuel level in the nozzles, when you get it reassembled, to be sure they're correct.

@DaveR, was the 10 turns down setting with the floats removed? What was the "original location" that you mentioned?

Progress is good. Keep us posted.

Unfortunately, I can't. There seems to be different opinions about the fuel height in the bowls on three screw carbs. My suggestion is set the float heights by visually verifying the fuel level is 1/16" below the tops of the nozzles at 2 1/2 turns down. That way you're sure they're 100% right. I would suggest measuring the fuel height in the bowls using the tubes AFTER the floats are set. That info could be valuable to others.

I'm not surprised. That would explain the lean condition that you told us about previously. We'll proceed with the adjusting the floats until the fuel level is 1/16" below the tops of the nozzles. It will be interesting to see where the final fuel level ends up.

Good job. A little hard to see but it appears the fuel is at the nozzle tops. That would be OK if we didn't have to lower (richen) the mixture screws later. If we have to lower the mixture screws later, the fuel will be puddling on the nozzle tops. Not a good thing. Next thing to do is readjust the floats and get the fuel level 1 1/6" below the nozzle tops. You'll be lowering the fuel level in the float bowls to accomplish that. That will allow for fine tune adjustment later. Go thru the readjustment, start it up run for a minute, shut down and look at the new float levels and report back please.