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Mark Maras

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Everything posted by Mark Maras

  1. Mark Maras
    Bruce Palmer (Ztherapy) shared this tip a while back for checking float (fuel) level in the float bowls. Run the engine at idle, turn it off. re-set the mixture screws 2 1/2 turns down(factory setting), remove the 4 screw domes and the pistons with the needles, I temporarily set the pistons, needles down, in the cowl slots), look straight down at the fuel jet (orifice) that housed the needle. When the floats are adjusted properly, the fuel levels will be 1/16" below the tops of the jets. I find this method much easier than pulling the float bowl tops, measuring, re-setting and still wondering if I got it right. Let us know what you find.
  2. Mark Maras
    @78280ZXHELP You might want to check with Bill's Datsun Shop in Clackamas to see if they have an ECU. Ask for Jaques. It sounds like it's time to go at all the electrical connections with DeOxit. Everything will work better, even the things that are working now.
  3. Mark Maras
    It'll be interesting to see what the red-headed step child is worth. Eventually, IMHO, the scarcity of the one year model is going to make them quite valuable. This one may start the trend.
  4. Mark Maras
    Attn. @Zed Head and all others in the area. It would be fun to get together for food and?. However, if there's a Z around that needs TLC, that should probably be the first priority.
  5. Mark Maras
    A trip to the beach from Portland may be coming up.
  6. Mark Maras
    "Going gangbusters" is the right term considering the meticulous quality of your work. I'm enjoying seeing someone "Make a silk purse out of a sow's ear." "They" said it couldn't be done.
  7. Mark Maras
    Reply to post above. As you stated, you can still see the cross hatch pattern in the cylinder walls. If the bores all look that good, and you're not trying to up the compression with new pistons, why bother tearing it apart all the way. Using a micrometer to measure bore taper would be a good idea. If the block is out, I'd take a look at the main and rod bearings as well as the crank but I wouldn't expect to find anything wrong. More just a step to reassure myself. If, however, you do decide to tear it down, be sure to pay extra attention to the coolant passages in the block. They are notorious for collecting deposits on the walls. IMHO, all that money in a new engine when used in a daily driver could be better spent elsewhere on the car. BTW, if you really want to enjoy the car as a reliable daily driver, keep everything as stock as possible when it comes to the engine and induction system.
  8. Mark Maras
    Have you turned the engine over and inspected the bores? If they look good, I'd think twice before opening up the bottom end unless, at some point in time, it lost oil pressure.
  9. Mark Maras
    I have a new FelPro head gasket. It doesn't have a metal ring around either hole. Instead, it has a red sealant? around both holes and around the front rectangle where the timing chain drops down to the crank. The cyl. bores are the only thing that are reinforced with metal. I would have thought that the manufacturer would have treated both holes the same on yours.
  10. Mark Maras
    Did the 85 mph limit and the tach going crazy start at the same time? Also, will the engine rev to the red line easily when it's not under a load?
  11. Mark Maras
    Sorry, I can't really tell judging by the pic. I'm assuming that's an old plug. The black portion indicates a rich mixture. The white portion indicates a lean mixture. You'll have to start with new plugs that have all white porcelain to get a proper reading. That said, I'd say that the black portion was from running the mixture too rich when the plugs were new. Then it looks like the plug was cleaned, the mixture and or floats were re-set to a lean mixture. Neither color is what you're looking for. You're shooting for a tan color. Normal driving.
  12. Mark Maras
    $75,000 is the car salesman side of him.
  13. Mark Maras
    I'm going to guess crud in the tank. The foreign matter (probably rust) may be blocking the line to the pump. The pumping action sucks up the crud and blocks the fuel flow. Engine stops, crud falls away from the line until you run the pump again. However, all the fuel filters should be checked and if possible, drain the tank to find out what may be in there.
  14. Mark Maras
    Might be easier than you think. "Patina" is very desirable to some people, just not Z owners.
  15. Mark Maras
    GodZilla?
  16. Mark Maras
    That's quite a pile of rust. Common knowledge in the shipyard repair division was that the rust expansion ratio was 1 to 7. An inch of steel will produce seven inches of rust before it's consumed.
  17. Mark Maras
    @Luis Maldonado, in post #3 you said "at 85 mph it stops accelerating and starts to fail." Describe the symptom please. Does the engine cut out? (spark plugs misfiring or not firing) Any backfire from the carbs or exhaust? Does it just run out of power exhibiting no other symptom? Any smoke, odd noises or smells when it happens?
  18. Mark Maras
    Welcome Luis. Does your Z exhibit any other symptoms. Tell us about your set-up. Stock, with SU's? Have you changed anything lately? Have you tried any repairs?
  19. Mark Maras
    I just heard that E.D. pills will do the same thing. Hmmm. Maybe it's not the pills.
  20. Mark Maras
    How many beers does it take to mow 15 acres?
  21. Mark Maras
    Too much fuel can be caused from excessive fuel pressure, floats set too high, sticking floats, stuck needle and seat or crud in it holding it open, for openers. Two other things, when the choke is in the off position, reach under the carbs and push up on the nozzles. They can stick down (more choke) even when the handle is pushed forward and be sure that the choke cables are adjusted at the carbs to be sure the nozzles are all the way up (up being resting against the mixture nut which is about 2 1/2 turns down) when the choke is off. When the suction chambers and pistons are removed, you can look down and see the top of the nozzle. Set at 2 1/2 turns down, the fuel level should be about 1/16" below the top of the nozzle.
  22. Mark Maras
    There's been a lot of discussion about float adjustment methods. Any service manual will get you close to the right adjustment if it's done with care. As a final fuel height check, you can remove the suction chambers and pistons, with the mixture screws 2 1/2 turns down, look down at the top of the fuel nozzle. The fuel level should be about 1/16" below the top of the nozzle opening. Also be sure the floats pivot on the rods freely and the needle and seat operate properly.
  23. Mark Maras
    Wet plugs, Hmmm. OK, let's go that direction. Have you determined if the plug wetness is oil or gas? Sniff test might do it, a burn test would work too. Have you checked to see if there is a strong spark at the plugs before and during the problem? If all is well with the spark (new plugs is a good idea) then it's on to too much fuel. SU's will run well with 3 - 3 1/2 psi. Anything over that can over power the needle and seat and overfill the float chambers. Did you re-set the floats when you rebuilt the carbs and what method did you use? That's enough for now. Keep the info coming. We'll get to the bottom of this.
  24. Mark Maras
    I'm thinking that there's a couple of problems. 1st, if the engine won't pull a load but rev's freely when not under a load the problem is usually lack of fuel. There can be many causes. A fuel pressure and volume test is first. That should rule out everything up to the carbs. Check the filters in the banjo fittings above the float lids if you haven't already. Even with a poor fuel flow the engine should idle smoothly. Recheck the float levels, be sure the nozzles slide up and down easily when operating the choke and run thru the carb balancing-tuning procedure again. What color are the plugs?
  25. Mark Maras
    IMHO, A weak spot just off idle is the nature of the beast unless it's so weak that it's a PITA.
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